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CPU Cooler for a gigabyte EP45-UD3P

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July 25, 2009 7:53:35 AM

Hello all, I would like to play around with OCing my cpu . I bought a Zalman 9500 but i cant get the clip on to lock down the CPU cooler, its so tight to the hest sinks on the mobo :(  . Anyways I would like some input as to what some of you guys are useing that work will with this MOBO, Than get into the OC part after i get my CPU temps better, ATM they are 42c and 64 full load. Thanks

More about : cpu cooler gigabyte ep45 ud3p

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July 25, 2009 8:14:49 AM

I always recommend Freezer 7 Pros - easy to mount, fits most any MOBO; isn't the absolutely best at heat removal, you can find better and pay more, but, if you don't intend to go nuts with the voltage, it'll do a fine job...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

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a c 156 V Motherboard
July 25, 2009 2:51:27 PM

Ah, bilbat; a fellow breadboarder.



Great for testing , isn't it?

Niklas, I own one of each: a 9500, an ACF7P, and a Xig Dark Knight. The 9500 is on my knick-knack shelf where it attracts a fair amount of attention when I have guests over. The ACF7P is a great budget cooler. The Xig is very good. I do not think that you can beat it in it's price range. I also have a ThermalRight Ultra 120 Extreme (three computers :)  ).

The TRUE (bought about a year before the Xig hit the market) is a little better than the Xig, But it and the not included fan were nearly twice as much as the Xig.

Will you be able to reach 3.8 GHz? I don't know. It will depend on how much you need to increase your CPU voltage. That will, in part, depend on the VID of your CPU chip.
----------
Overclocking since 1978 - Z80 (TRS-80) from 1.77 MHz to 2.01 MHz
July 25, 2009 3:59:25 PM

Thanks for the info on the coolers!!! The 9500 looked sweet and i had some cash around so i bought it, but i cant seem to get it in my mobo. The problem arrg it would hit the heat sinks that i was unable to get in the retaner clip. The AC7 looks like it would be easy to get in but for 10 bucks more maybe i should go for the Xig ? not looking to go crazy with OCing just play around a little. Yes i know one might hit 4.2 on there E8500 and one might only get 3.6 that i dont care of :)  i just want to tinker with it IOW i am bord :)  Thanks
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a c 177 V Motherboard
July 25, 2009 4:06:43 PM

My main concern with that Dark Knight is width: 120mm fan, versus 92 on the Freezer; your MOBO is somewhat limited there by the GB heatsinks; I've been meaning to write this up for some time, so I'll show you how to 'guesstimate' fit...

First thing we need is a decent sized, 'flat' picture of the MOBO in question; you can grab the one out of the GB manual, but it's kind of puny - I usually grab the one off NewEgg - it's a pain 'cause most of them are 'flash' images, so you can't just click and do a 'save picture'; you have to do an <ALT><PRT_SCR> to capture the window, and paste it to somewhere (I use PaintShop - MS Paint wil, I believe, work) you can crop it to get just the board. By 'flat' I mean you want a nice square picture of the board laying flat; if the outlines of the board are at all trapeziodal, this procedure won't work. Next step is to print the picture of the board so that it occupies as much of the sheet as possible - usually, landscape mode will do it...
Here's my picture:



and here's my 'print':



I lay a ruler across it, and measure the printed size of the board itself; I happened to grab an English (inch) ruler, so we'll learn to convert, as well as scale...

First, the basics: there are ten millimeters (mm) to a centimeter (cm), and 2.54 centimeters (25.4 millimeters) to an inch...

I measured the board width at seven and twenty-three sixty-fourths, 23/64=0.359375, so we'll call it 7.36 inches; as our sink dimensions are in millimeters, we'll convert to them: 7.36 (inches) x 25.4 (millimeters per inch) = 186.94 millimeters wide, in the picture. Now, by looking on page 12 of your manual (and they're all [ATXs, that is] the same), we find "ATX Form Factor; 30.5cm x 24.4cm", so, multiplying by ten (centimeters to millimeters), we know the actual board is 244 millimeters wide; we divide this by our 'measured' width: 244/186.94 = 1.3052316... We can drop a bunch of those digits; now we know that any measurement we take on the picture, can be multiplied by 1.3 to give us the actual size on the actual board.

Next, we measure the width of the CPU area between the two heatsinks:



I get three inches, a nice round number: 3 x 25.4 (millimeters per inch) gives me 76.2 mm, times our scaling factor from above, 1.3, tells me that the available space between the heatsinks is close to 99 millimeters, and the Sigmatek shows a 120 mm fan. You might be able to orient it the other way, which seems to have a bit more room. Try the process as an exercise - if you get stuck, post back and I'll help...

I wouldn't trust this for acuracy beyond a millimeter or two, but it can be awfully handy to get a quick idea of part fits.

Bill
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a c 177 V Motherboard
July 25, 2009 4:22:12 PM

Another point - I find a lot of obsessing about getting that 'last erg' of heat out doesn't matter all that much. Your board, or your CPU will likely be 'FSB limited', and you'll likely not be pushing any (except of course, a stock Intel - they're junk) heatsink past its limits. The only real reason to go with an 'ultimate' sink is if you really intend to overvolt the hell out of it, which appreciably shortens the 'working life' of your equipment...
July 25, 2009 5:13:26 PM

Thanks for all the info!!! Very nicely done. I am going to run down to microw center and see if i can find a AC7, I think it would fit alot better and not be a big pain in the butt getting in.

ATM in real temps my cpu is 42c 64 load

Will post back after i get this in and post new temps :)  and then maybe i can get a few tips on OCing my cpu and unlocking my ram from my cpu

Thanks
July 26, 2009 5:02:40 PM

Hi bilbat , Well i went down to microcenter and came back with a Xig dark knight was easy as pie to get in compaired to that Zalman

Just like to say thanks and i will read that post about OCing

new Cooler relly didnt help @ idle temps are now 40C full load 55C

was 42C full load 64C the full load came down quit a bit, I am guessing that is what relly matters so you dont hit the TJ max on the CPU

some pics http://img197.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=031vkt.jpg

Thanks
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July 26, 2009 5:55:53 PM

Great looking system! My god, that cooler is massive! Looks like you've got plenty of case air to support it, too...

Quote:
I am looking to OC my E8500 to 3.8


..tell, 'ya, if the chip will do over 4GHz, that cooler will sure accomodate it!
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July 26, 2009 8:19:43 PM

bilbat said:
First thing we need is a decent sized, 'flat' picture of the MOBO in question;


Thank you, Bill, for your excellent suggestion about printing and scaling off the mobo. I would just like to add an alternative technique that usually works for getting the picture and that eliminates the need to crop. For me it is faster and cleaner.

Simply save the entire web page - for instance using save "web page, complete" in IE
Along with the IE page icon, in most cases, you will have saved a file with all of the images from the page. I confirmed it for newegg on one of their mobo pages

Then simply open the folder and the image for the item you want - mobo in this case - in photo or image viewing software - and you can quickly size and print the image.

If the web page - and therefore the folder - happens to have a lot of images, just change the folder view to "thumbnail"

July 28, 2009 12:57:27 AM

Hello bilbat, I read your other post about OC the E8500, I have a few question about it.

1. he hade DDR 2 1066 ram, I have DDR 2 800 will i need differnt ram

2. My bio is @ F7 do i need to update it ? my system seem stable, I have run intel burn, prime95 for 1 hour, CPU has not went over 54C

3. If i dont need new ram what do i do to unlock the ram from my CPU so it will stay @ 800


Thanks for any help
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a c 177 V Motherboard
July 28, 2009 3:57:52 AM

Quote:
1. he hade DDR 2 1066 ram, I have DDR 2 800 will i need differnt ram


With DDR2-800 RAM, we should be able to overclock your E8500 roughly 20% to 3.8 GHz

Quote:
2. My bio is @ F7 do i need to update it ?


For BIOS advice, I will need to know the revision level of your board - there are three EP45-UD3P revisions: 1.0, 1.1, & 1.6 - you can find this information here:


Quote:
3. If i dont need new ram what do i do to unlock the ram from my CPU so it will stay @ 800


I will work up a page of instructions with parameters tomorrow. We will raise your system clock from 333 to 401, and lower your memory multiplier to 2.0; 401 x 9.5 (your CPU's multiplier) gives you 3.8 GHz; 401 x 2.0 (memory multiplier) gives you 802 (RAM speed)...

One more question: what are you using for a CPU cooler? If you have the stock Intel piece, we will do this in a few steps, checking temperatures as we go...
July 28, 2009 4:28:44 AM

Ok i have the REV 1.1 and the bios is F7

The CPU Cooler i have is the dark Knight Xig :)  remerber i posted pics

Thanks niklas

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a c 177 V Motherboard
July 28, 2009 3:08:13 PM

You BIOS should be OK - both available steppings of your CPU have been supported since F4, F8 is an update for support of their "Dynamic Energy Saver", which you don't want to use while overclocking, and F9 updates the i/o chip that does the parallel and serial ports, reports temperatures and voltages, and runs the fans - if we come up with any oddities in those areas, we'll know to update...

Most of this will be reposted with just a few parameter changes; we've done this before, so it should work...

Before we start ramping things up, I want to teach you a new skill involving the BIOS: Do the <DEL> at the boot to enter the BIOS;
notice, at the bottom, the <F11> "Save CMOS to BIOS" - hit this, and you should get a menu that will show a number (the count varies by BIOS) of empty 'slots', each of which will store an entire set of BIOS parameters, to be re-loaded from the corresponding <F12> "Load CMOS from BIOS"; this is a wonderful overclocker's feature. What I do with it, is to save my 'baseline' working parameters, so if I change something that 'irritates' the board, and forces a reset of all the parameters to defaults, or, even worse, get so screwed up I need to do a 'clear CMOS', I can get back to my starting point with no effort, and without having to remember 85 separate settings! Another thing it prevents is two hours' troubleshooting, having forgotten a change to a crucial parameter - like, "wait a minute - didn't I have the Trd at seven?!" It's pretty self-explanatory, and I alway urge people to start right away by taking the time to give the 'slots' names that mean something: in two hours, "Try2" and "Try3" will not be very helpful, but "450@+10MCH" and "450@+15MCH" will! Another use is for 'green' settings; overclocks, as a rule, do not 'play well' with green features, such as 'down-clocking' and 'down-volting'; with the storage slots, you can set up one profile, say "Green", with all the settings at 'stock' values, and all the 'green' features enabled; another, say "Balls2Wall" with a full overclock, and all the 'green' stuff turned off... Another neat feature of this 'slot' system is, for most BIOS, the mechanism itself will keep track of which ones have booted successfully, and how many times (up to, I believe, a max of five)!

On to the BIOS!


On the "Advanced BIOS Features" page:

"CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E)" to "Disabled"
"C2/C2E State Support" to "Disabled"
"C4/C4E State Support" to "Disabled"
"CPU Thermal Monitor 2 (TM2)" to "Enabled"
"CPU EIST Function" to "Disabled"
"Virtualization Technology" to "Enabled" - this allows use of Win7's fantastic VirtualXp feature...
"Full Screen LOGO Show" to "Disabled"


On the "Integrated Peripherals" page:

Your manual shows "Legacy USB storage detect", but later BIOS say "USB Storage Function" - either way, set to "Disabled"


On the "Power Management Setup" page:

"ACPI Suspend Type" to "S1(POS)" (for now...)
"HPET Support" to "Enabled"
"HPET Mode" to "64-bit"


On the "MB Intelligent Tweaker(M.I.T.)" page:

"Robust Graphics Booster" to "Auto"
"CPU Clock Ratio" to "9"
"Fine CPU Clock Ratio" to ".5"
"CPU Frequency" - this one can't be set, it's calculated, and will change when we set the next few items...

******** Clock Chip Control ********
>>>>> Standard Clock Control

"CPU Host Clock Control" to "Enabled"
"CPU Host Frequency (Mhz)" to "401"
"PCI Express Frequency (Mhz)" to "100" (not auto...)
"C.I.A.2" to "Disabled"

******** DRAM Performance Control ********
"Performance Enhance" to "Standard"
"Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P.)" to "Disabled"
"(G)MCH Frequency Latch" to "400"
"System Memory Multiplier (SPD)" to "2.0" (may have a 'D' after it...)
"Memory Frequency (Mhz)" - again, can't be set, it's calculated, should now show 802...
"DRAM Timing Selectable (SPD)" to "Manual"

check that the following are already set:
>>>>> Standard Timing Control
"CAS Latency Time" at "5"
"tRCD" at "5"
"tRP" at "5"
"tRAS" at "18"

You can leave the rest of the memory settings alone; we haven't changed its actual speed, so it should keep working...

"Load-Line Calibration" to "Disabled" (this works differently on different boards - on mine, it's worse "enabled" than "disabled" - the function is supposed to cure a phenomenon called Vdroop - the CPU voltage regulation circuit causes the CPU core voltage to sag, or 'droop' under high loadings; hopefully, we're going to be at a low enough voltage to just ignore this...)
"CPU Vcore" to "1.3500V"

And that should do it!

I should point out that getting two reboots in a row here is perfectly normal behavior; it seems that, when you change certain settings (and we don't exactly know which ones - the only sure one I know is Trd - if you change it, I think you get the 'twin' reboot) it boots once to 'see where it's at', recalculates its remaining 'auto' settings, saves them, and then boots again. Three reboots in a row, however, usually indicates that the board was 'given indigestion' by your settings, and is going back to defaults. This sometimes goes astray, and it doesn't get back into proper operation - for example, at this point, mine will sometimes 'lock' itself into 111MHz x a six multiplier - and take a week to do a whole boot - that's time to do a CMOS reset, and use your 'stored' <F12> profile to get back to where you were...

Good luck!

Bill
July 29, 2009 3:05:55 AM

Hello bilbat and THANKS for all the help!!!

Ok a few more questions

1. I did not see a option for "Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P.)" to "Disabled"
2. I guess i missed read the last part about changing my Vcore to 1.3500V

I ran prime95 i guess with Vcore set to auto 1.2 something its @
Anyways i ran it for 55 mins no errors no warnings ect, I played a few games for a hour no problems
temps went up from 41C 54Cload to 42C 62C load < that was when i ran prime95 for 55 mins

Anyways i guess it seems stabily no BSOD lockups ect So should i go back and up my Vcore ?

one last thing is in CPU-Z my memory shows Dram 401.2
FSB 1.1

With timmings @ 5 6 6 19 44 CR T2 is this ok ?

Also is this ok memory or should i get some with tighter timmings
or 1066 to play with a higher OC :) 

Thanks nik
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a c 177 V Motherboard
July 29, 2009 4:14:08 PM

Always welcome!

Quote:
1. I did not see a option for "Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P.)" to "Disabled"


Probably just not in your BIOS - I'm working from a generic manual/template - nothing to worry about...

Quote:
2. I guess i missed read the last part about changing my Vcore to 1.3500V

I ran prime95 i guess with Vcore set to auto 1.2 something its @
Anyways i ran it for 55 mins no errors no warnings ect, I played a few games for a hour no problems
temps went up from 41C 54Cload to 42C 62C load < that was when i ran prime95 for 55 mins

Anyways i guess it seems stabily no BSOD lockups ect So should i go back and up my Vcore ?


That is excellent - you got a good CPU! Always want to run everything as fast as you want, at the lowest voltage you can get away with...

Quote:
one last thing is in CPU-Z my memory shows Dram 401.2
FSB 1.1

With timmings @ 5 6 6 19 44 CR T2 is this ok ?

Also is this ok memory or should i get some with tighter timmings
or 1066 to play with a higher OC :) 


DDR2 is called that as it is "double pumped' (transferring data on the rising and falling edges of the bus clock signal), the data bus is run at the twice the speed of the memory clock - and CPU-Z shows that basic memory clock; here's mine at 1080:


The spec for that RAM says it will run at 5 5 5 18 - you can use the F11 function, "Save to CMOS" that I described, to save your currently successful parameters so you can get back to them if you find a problem, and then manually set:

"CAS Latency Time" at "5"
"tRCD" at "5"
"tRP" at "5"
"tRAS" at "18"

'What next?' depends on you - if you're happy with the machine's performance, leave it as is, and enjoy it. The fact that the chip will run this overclock at stock voltage portends that it will likely be a great overclocker - and, in general, the E8500s are good for well in excess of 4GHz, but you will need faster RAM to go much further; the lowest memory multiplier is the one we are using, 2.0, so with your bus at the current 401, any increase automatically takes the current RAM further above its rated speed...
July 30, 2009 1:20:22 AM

Thanks for the info and sweet OC :) 

I might go to 4GHz after i burn this OC in for a month or So :) 

Any RAM you recommend to use with this board to go past 3.8GHz ?

I checked my Bios and my ram is set to 5 5 5 18 but in CPU-Z it shows

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/8431/ramzgs.jpg

I guess my question is why does my Bios show my ram @ 5 5 5 18 and CPU-Z shows it @ 5 6 6 19

Thanks Nik
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a c 177 V Motherboard
July 30, 2009 3:50:54 AM

Always welcome!

Quote:
Any RAM you recommend to use with this board to go past 3.8GHz ?

I, as well as a few people here, have had very good luck with this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Quote:
I guess my question is why does my Bios show my ram @ 5 5 5 18 and CPU-Z shows it @ 5 6 6 19

That's a very good question; I wish I had a good (or any, for that matter) answer...

Could be just a glitch - does it appear to read your motherboard's model number and northbridge type correctly? After seeing this, I looked a bit closer, and discovered it reads my graphics card type OK, but misreads the core clock...

'Nother one you can try is this:
http://www.tweakers.fr/download/MemSet41b2.zip
July 30, 2009 4:21:28 AM




It does read my MB and the Southbridge right, I dont see any reading showing anything for the northbridge. My GPU also shows the right type but the wrong clock.

Memset Also showed the RAM @ 5 6 6 19 but on the SPD tab it shows JEDEC #2 showing the right 5 5 5 18

Oh well i guess as long as its Stable thats all that relly matters :) 

Thanks for the tip on the DDR2 1066 RAM

Thanks again for all the help and ( let the PC gods shine on you )


LOL i might need a lesson on making Quotes work :p 
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a c 177 V Motherboard
July 30, 2009 3:54:36 PM

Quote:
LOL i might need a lesson on making Quotes work


I only half know how - some people get a "SoAndSo Said:" to head their quotes; I haven't stumbled on that! All I do is cut and paste the lines I want to 'quote', select them, highlighting them in my response and click on the 'quote' button - all it really does is put ['quote']my quote['/quote'] tags around the quoted item (of couse, without the ' I added to keep them from actually appearing as a quote...
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a c 177 V Motherboard
July 31, 2009 1:45:24 AM

Oh - and by the way - there are no 'pc gods'; there is only Murphy, and his LAW, and they never sleep! :cry: 
August 1, 2009 1:05:05 AM

:)  Thanks bilbat best wishes
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a c 177 V Motherboard
August 1, 2009 1:14:12 AM

Always welcome - pop back if you decide to take 'er up past the 4GHz mark!
!