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Major problems with build

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February 25, 2009 2:31:12 AM

I owed my dad some cash, so I offered to build him a cheap PC to replace his PIII 500mhz SGI system. Of course, he says that computer is fine even though it is 11 years; but he eventually let me build him a new one.

I have a HP workstation case from his old workstation with a 650 watt PSU. The whole thing is heavy duty, it is the most sturdy case I have ever seen. I really want to use it. It takes EATX boards, but we got the standard ATX board to fit after some work. Now I am having a lot of troubles.

First, the 24pin connector will not reach the motherboard. The EATX board had the 24pin connector right next to the PSU so it reached easily. The connector is about an inch to short to reach on the new motherboard however. Any ideas on how I can add about an inch to the length? A simple way would be best, I don't want to rig it.

Second, the power supply only has an 8-pin connector for the processor; and since I have a cheap board it ONLY takes a 4 pin. Most motherboards I have seen take a 4 or an 8, but this one will only take a 4. How can I change the 8 pin to a 4? It should be easy right, all the needed wires are there?

Lastly, and most frustrating is the front panel connectors. Most boards I have seen have the power switch, power led, hdd led, etc. in separate connectors so you can put them wherever. This case is from an HP though so they are all in one big block and I cannot find any documentation whatsoever on what each wire is. What would you guys do in this situation? This is the closest thing I have found to explaining what all of the wires do


Oh, and the original computer was a XW 8200 HP workstation, 2 3.4ghz xeons, 2gb ram. The motherboard does not have a real model number from what I can find, its part number is 409647-001

The parts I am putting in are a E7400, 2gb ddr2, and an FX1400 that came with the workstation

More about : major problems build

a c 90 B Homebuilt system
February 25, 2009 4:57:33 AM

Silverstone 6" ATX extension cable kit This kit should fix both the short 24pin cable and the 8/4 pin EPS cable problem.
But check your 8pin EPS header - a lot of them are meant to be split into a 4pin header for boards like yours.

The panel headers will be tricky. You can always try the "leave one pin off" testing method from the old MB & case combo and figure out what each front panel lead does.
You might need multimeter continuity testing to get readings from each of the leads. And you might be able to trace the MB's OEM maker and find a MB pinout diagram.
You definitely need to stop by the HP forums and ask for help there.

February 25, 2009 5:58:47 AM

Thanks a lot, I just ordered that silverstone kit

Oh and the leave on pin off test, what do you mean? Can I fry anything hooking it up wrong?

Are you saying hook it up in its original configuration and unhook them to figure out what goes out? I can't do that, that mobo is fried.

Any more description would help me a lot! Thanks I really appreciate it.
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a c 90 B Homebuilt system
February 25, 2009 6:07:35 AM

nkarasch said:
that mobo is fried.
Rules out the pin off testing. You wouldnt want to try that in the blind with a new motherboard.
February 25, 2009 8:38:05 AM

Oh ok, so getting a diagram from HP or their forums will be pretty much the only way? I'll try, I don't think it will be easy. I wish I could find the actual manufacturer of this case, it might be HP though. They have been using it for probably 5 years, I cannot believe there has been no discussion on this. It is such a nice case. The entire system is tool-less and the thing has to weigh about 1.5x what my 900 does.

Well thanks a lot, I ordered that kit; I just don't know what to do next.
February 25, 2009 4:42:08 PM

There are only 4, technically 3, front panel header pairs you need, PWR SW, PWR LED, HD LED and Optional Reset SW. You will need to get pin headers out of an old case and splice them to the appropriate leads or pick up some fresh female header connectors.

To look for the proper leads leave the original connector in place, it makes things easier to handle. Take a Ohm meter and test the leads with a paper clip, a small safety pin or some wire that fits the connector holes. They are probably next to or at least near each other. Plug in the meter and press the PWR SW and look for the needle or digits to go to 0 OHMs, and you have found the leads. Do the same for the reset switch. There is no polarity so either way will work.

For the LEDs get a 12VDC source. The PSU will do or a battery etc. Put 12V on the remaining pins, two at a time obviously, and reverse the polarity for each pair. Sooner or later the LED will light and you will have found the leads for the LEDs. Cut off the connector and splice them to the new connectors and you are done. Take care not to short out the 12VDC leads unless you want some fireworks.

Either that, or pull the front apart and follow the traces/leads, that may take some experience though.
February 26, 2009 7:14:26 AM

Zorg said:
There are only 4, technically 3, front panel header pairs you need, PWR SW, PWR LED, HD LED and Optional Reset SW. You will need to get pin headers out of an old case and splice them to the appropriate leads or pick up some fresh female header connectors.

To look for the proper leads leave the original connector in place, it makes things easier to handle. Take a Ohm meter and test the leads with a paper clip, a small safety pin or some wire that fits the connector holes. They are probably next to or at least near each other. Plug in the meter and press the PWR SW and look for the needle or digits to go to 0 OHMs, and you have found the leads. Do the same for the reset switch. There is no polarity so either way will work.

For the LEDs get a 12VDC source. The PSU will do or a battery etc. Put 12V on the remaining pins, two at a time obviously, and reverse the polarity for each pair. Sooner or later the LED will light and you will have found the leads for the LEDs. Cut off the connector and splice them to the new connectors and you are done. Take care not to short out the 12VDC leads unless you want some fireworks.

Either that, or pull the front apart and follow the traces/leads, that may take some experience though.




Wow thank you so much. I'll be diggin the DMM out tomorrow to work on this. I can't thank you enough.
February 26, 2009 3:40:13 PM

Good luck with it.

Just to be sure you are clear. The PWR switch is, or should be, momentary contacts. You will need to look at the meter while holding the switch down. If the switch is locking (stays down), and I don't think it is, you will need to change it out or use the reset switch for the power header.
!