Sign in with
Sign up | Sign in
Your question
Solved

Water cool setup help

Last response: in Overclocking
Share
October 3, 2010 8:56:21 PM

Hey Toms so I am looking to do a water cool setup. I live in southern califorina so the ambients tend to be warmer here. Have a AMD 1055t and I am looking to build a water cool for it. Now I have done some looking and I am planning this
 
Single loop for my cpu only.
 
I have a CM Sniper
Was looking at something like this...
 
 
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?...
 
Any suggestions??

More about : water cool setup

October 3, 2010 10:16:52 PM

rubix_1011 said:
http://petrastechshop.com/swh2ulcpulic.html

You'd be much better off with something in this realm to begin with. I will also assume you have done little to no research on the subject?


Just what I have looked into in the water cooling topic and looking at some websites. Any suggestions for websites for info looked at forums but the "language" is forign to me. Just need help getting started on ideas and research.
m
0
l
Related resources
October 4, 2010 4:25:47 AM

Thank you for your help! All of you!! I am using all this information to research, and learn it will probably be 6 weeks by the time i research and decide... Thanks again
m
0
l
a c 330 K Overclocking
October 4, 2010 2:08:16 PM

I'd highly suggest you soak up as much information as you can.

A little tip: please do yourself a favor and read as much as you can BEFORE you start asking questions that are easily answered by 1000's of other Q/A's. We don't enjoy answering 'what should I get', but rather more well-thought-out and specific questions pertaining to concepts covered in basic knowledge. The more you are willing to help yourself learn and understand the more willing others are to help fill in the gaps.
m
0
l
October 4, 2010 4:22:28 PM

rubix_1011 said:
I'd highly suggest you soak up as much information as you can.

A little tip: please do yourself a favor and read as much as you can BEFORE you start asking questions that are easily answered by 1000's of other Q/A's. We don't enjoy answering 'what should I get', but rather more well-thought-out and specific questions pertaining to concepts covered in basic knowledge. The more you are willing to help yourself learn and understand the more willing others are to help fill in the gaps.

I see your point.
m
0
l
a c 330 K Overclocking
October 4, 2010 5:24:11 PM

Not a problem, just like to help point people in the right directions...especially those willing to learn about what they are asking about...not people just seeking the opinion of a complete stranger on what to spend hundreds of dollars on, with potentially negative results.
m
0
l
October 4, 2010 6:10:00 PM

rubix_1011 said:
Not a problem, just like to help point people in the right directions...especially those willing to learn about what they are asking about...not people just seeking the opinion of a complete stranger on what to spend hundreds of dollars on, with potentially negative results.

I see that! believe me I have lots of reaseach to do like I mentioned before. I don't just buy based on what others say I take a suggestion and research Again thanlks
m
0
l
a b K Overclocking
October 4, 2010 6:38:14 PM

Use plain distilled water. Avoid coolant, they advertise coolant so they can sell you something while distilled water is basically is in many ways better and a lot cheaper.

Always rinse your parts with distilled water and not tap water. Depending on where you live, there is always a little bacteria and algae count in tap water. A little algae can multiply very fast in perfect warm temperatures of a water cooling loop.

You can run some biocide but personally never found the need to. Just keep your stuff clean.

Don't use coloring in your fluid because they can stain your tubing and reservior and maybe cause gunk build up in waterblocks. Just use UV reactive tubing if you like the color. Tubing stays UV reactive longer anyway.
m
0
l
a c 330 K Overclocking
October 4, 2010 7:12:10 PM

You might consider adding a silver coil to your loop, this should take care of any 'bugs' you might grow in your loop. Petra's sells them, or check ebay.
m
0
l
October 6, 2010 3:58:35 AM

Thanks more info to take in I love it. I do have a question though I cant seem to find any information on the differences a 3/8" id to a 1/2" id tubing will make thermally in a loop. Second is it bad to use too many quick disconnect pieces. (am planning to use qd on CPU,Radiator) I cant seem to find anything about that.

I have figured out 2 (well actually 3) possible set ups so far 2 involve "pieces" and the third would be the swifttech 220 apex for a rear mount. 1 and 2 will have a case mod which i am totally comfortable with. I put what I am looking at in the images.

Plan 1


Plan 2


This one probably gives me a easier (nicer) GPU loop add on expansion.
Plan 3
Rear mounted Swifttech 220 Apex (least favorite)

I would like to get some "areas of opportunity" suggestions.
m
0
l
a b K Overclocking
October 6, 2010 4:51:02 AM

"(am planning to use qd on CPU,Radiator)" and the reason is...?
both of your " setups" will work just fine ,you can add another radiator later or buy nice 3x120 or 4x120 now and get it over with,try to mount your rad so it's sucking cold fresh air
m
0
l
October 6, 2010 5:02:27 AM

ortoklaz said:
"(am planning to use qd on CPU,Radiator)" and the reason is...?
both of your " setups" will work just fine ,you can add another radiator later or buy nice 3x120 or 4x120 now and get it over with,try to mount your rad so it's sucking cold fresh air



I guess my thinking so the cleaning and or expansion is easier.... and I'm guessing it is a distorted thinking..lol "sucking cold air in" I'm thinking that If I top mount it inside the case put the fans on the outside top of case blowing in, and reversing the 200 in the front of case to blow out..... Need to stop thinking out loud.. will put that on work out kinks list.. Thanks for your insight. Shows I have lots more to research

m
0
l
a b K Overclocking
October 6, 2010 5:19:35 AM

You almost there, "sucking cold air in"(pulling fresh air,sorry):) ,it tends to work better
"reversing the 200 in the front of case to blow out"-you better of pushing it out with good exhaust fan on the back
m
0
l
October 6, 2010 5:38:28 AM

ortoklaz said:
You almost there, "sucking cold air in"(pulling fresh air,sorry):) ,it tends to work better
"reversing the 200 in the front of case to blow out"-you better of pushing it out with good exhaust fan on the back


Ok so I do know what you mean by "sucking cold air in" So the top fans would be blowing into the case from the outside air... 3x 120mm on top outside of case, mount rad inside case.
(I dont think 3 120's and rad will work inside case as it will probaly interfere with motherboard)
So leave the front 200mm, and the side 200mm blowing in the case as-is. 120mm in the back pulling air out correct??? I think I got it!!

I also have a 140mm on the bottom of case with airflow going up... (pulling cold air from bottom of case)
m
0
l
a b K Overclocking
October 6, 2010 6:29:49 AM

it means pulling cold air through radiator(air in=>radiator=>fan=>air out)
if you have 2x 200mm fans for intake you can pull or push the air through top mount radiator you be fine,by" 3x120 or 4x120" i meant triple or quad radiator
m
0
l
October 6, 2010 6:34:05 AM

ortoklaz said:
it means pulling cold air through radiator(air in=>radiator=>fan=>air out)
if you have 2x 200mm fans for intake you can pull or push the air through top mount radiator you be fine,by" 3x120 or 4x120" i meant triple or quad radiator



Got it!! Thanks Now its time to shop for a looking at a black ice gtx 360
m
0
l
a c 330 K Overclocking
October 6, 2010 1:24:24 PM

Quick disconnects are expensive and you have to make sure you get the right ones. I know that Skinnee did some tests on a handful; might check those out. A general rule of thumb for me is, if I am adding a component to a loop, I generally do a tear-down and cleaning at the same time. If I am going to be draining my loop; might as well clean everything and add new tubing as well.

You also want to make sure you look at the radiator benchmarks and comparisons on his site; this should help you determine what performance to expect from a typical loop with different fan models at different speeds.
m
0
l
October 6, 2010 2:54:04 PM

rubix_1011 said:
Quick disconnects are expensive and you have to make sure you get the right ones. I know that Skinnee did some tests on a handful; might check those out. A general rule of thumb for me is, if I am adding a component to a loop, I generally do a tear-down and cleaning at the same time. If I am going to be draining my loop; might as well clean everything and add new tubing as well.

You also want to make sure you look at the radiator benchmarks and comparisons on his site; this should help you determine what performance to expect from a typical loop with different fan models at different speeds.


Thanks rubix! Will check that out I appreciate the direction!
m
0
l
October 6, 2010 2:54:40 PM

rubix_1011 said:
Quick disconnects are expensive and you have to make sure you get the right ones. I know that Skinnee did some tests on a handful; might check those out. A general rule of thumb for me is, if I am adding a component to a loop, I generally do a tear-down and cleaning at the same time. If I am going to be draining my loop; might as well clean everything and add new tubing as well.

You also want to make sure you look at the radiator benchmarks and comparisons on his site; this should help you determine what performance to expect from a typical loop with different fan models at different speeds.


Thanks rubix! Will check that out I appreciate the direction!
m
0
l
October 7, 2010 7:40:06 AM

ortoklaz said:
Take your time...
http://skinneelabs.com/triplesv2.html


ortoklaz
Hi after taking a good look at my cm sniper internally, I noticed that there is a 45mm clearance between the top of the case and the motherboard. Space for 2 120mm fans(outside case on top under shroud), and 230mm length. It does not have the room to put a 120.3 rad inside the case. (only 2 of the 3 120mm fans will fit on top) Am I missing something here??
m
0
l
a c 330 K Overclocking
October 7, 2010 2:51:42 PM

It looks like you might be limited to a 220 rad in that location then, which will also mean you'd need another rad if you ever planned to add your GPU. A 220 should be fine for a single CPU loop, though, but if you plan on adding anything else, you'll need more radiators.
m
0
l
October 7, 2010 10:50:13 PM

rubix_1011 said:
Quick disconnects are expensive and you have to make sure you get the right ones. I know that Skinnee did some tests on a handful; might check those out. A general rule of thumb for me is, if I am adding a component to a loop, I generally do a tear-down and cleaning at the same time. If I am going to be draining my loop; might as well clean everything and add new tubing as well.

You also want to make sure you look at the radiator benchmarks and comparisons on his site; this should help you determine what performance to expect from a typical loop with different fan models at different speeds.



Thanks I appreciate ALL of your guidance. I have studied all of the variables I had questions such as radiators, tubing, loop length effects, and quick disconnect valves (which for some reason I have a burning desire to use) :pt1cable:  Thanks to your pointing me toward that site I feel as if I can use QD's without loss of performance. I'm going to be putting a diagram together and get some feedback.
m
0
l
October 7, 2010 11:21:45 PM

ortoklaz said:
Yes it looks like you limited to 220 rad inside,i stumble across this thread :
http://www.overclockers.com/cm-sniper-revisited-with-wa...
and to be honest i would remove plastic top cover or "grill",buy some nylon risers in local hardware store and mount it outside this would give you much better performance
http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/8663/cimg0402o.jpg


I am going to take the top shroud off of the my sniper case and put a 120.3 radiator just cant decide which one :fou:  Im not sure if I am going to use the handles to rest the radiator on or remove it. I have 5 antec tri-cool fans in my possession (2000 rpm 79 cfm 30db) so I guess I am going to buy a radiator that best uses fans.
m
0
l
October 7, 2010 11:59:59 PM

This is my idea so far



m
0
l
a b K Overclocking
October 8, 2010 12:08:38 AM

PA120.3 and XSPC RX360 are great:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/thpa3xra.html
note;this RAD uses Fitting Thread: 3/8" BSPP (G3/8)
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsrx3xrare2.html
note:Sub 8fpi (fins per inch)-very quiet
don't know much about tri-cool fans and how well they perf. but good fan controller will come handy-anything above 1600 rpm is too loud for me and the handles-you could remove for nice clean look(if they intact by rivets -use hand drill to drill them out)
m
0
l
October 8, 2010 3:49:34 AM

ortoklaz said:
about this "QD's......all you need is this:
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?...
you can connect temperature/flow sensor if desire and save some money for compression fittings


I see how that comes in handy... Will put that on list. I have a setup will post shortly
m
0
l
October 8, 2010 4:16:40 AM

Ok so I think I have a setup in mind here it is.



Pump-MCP-655b (highly rated pump )
Reservoir- XSPC Acrylic D5 (seems like a good res. for my limited space)
Radiator-Swifttech PA 120.3 (good all fan speed rad.)
CPU Block- Koolance CPU-360 (lots of good ratings by tests and owners)
VLV-XTSPIB Drain Valve
Ins-Fm16 Coolant Flow Meter

Diagram
Pump>Radiator>CPU>Flow meter>Drain valve>pump

Removing top of Sniper case, (probably removing handles)
Mod holes on top to drop rad lines into case
Buying 3/8" 2 barbs for pump (rad has 3/8")
8 3/8" compression "nozzle" for hookups
Koolance 3/8" or Feser blue tubing


Feedback is appreciated thanks
m
0
l
October 8, 2010 5:06:50 AM

ortoklaz said:
the last think i like to mention is reservoir ( most of the time overlooked )..my find this article interesting :
http://www.overclockers.com/water-cooling-reservoir-the...
]http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/4236/cmstormsniperblack2.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
it,s not cheep...just suggestion:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8584/ex-res-146/EK_Du...



Actually if i take out the res. i was looking at, and flow meter it comes to same as your dual bay reservoir. (which has a flow meter)

Is this same???
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8583/ex-res-145/EK_Du...

with this led
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1754/ele-02/5mm_Blue_...
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1876/ele-39/5mm_Chrom...
m
0
l
a b K Overclocking
October 8, 2010 5:34:46 AM

it's better..250ML not that much but will give you better flow rate,will separate bubbles in no time,dual bay but shallow -you can sneak MCP right behind it.
Good luck with your build..post some pics ok?
m
0
l
October 8, 2010 5:42:07 AM

ortoklaz said:
it's better..250ML not that much but will give you better flow rate,will separate bubbles in no time,dual bay but shallow -you can sneak MCP right behind it.
Good luck with your build..post some pics ok?

I will Thanks!!!
m
0
l
a c 330 K Overclocking
October 8, 2010 1:58:41 PM

You really don't need a flow meter in a waterloop; that is simply a tool that inexperienced users find they want to have. If you boot up your system and the worst case scenario takes place: pump failure, you still have a few minutes to shut down when you realize your temps rise beyond normal. The in-line water will absorb the heat and allow the loop to keep your components cool enough to shut down without a meltdown. Flow meters actually hinder flow and shouldn't be used in most cases. I would think the best flow meter design would be in a bay res and would include some kind of floating ballast, paddles or even contained beads to show the movement of the coolant without causing a restriction and loss in flow.

This should probably be moved to a new thread as this was originally for the CoolIt contest and then got hijacked. :) 
m
0
l
a b K Overclocking
October 8, 2010 3:25:15 PM

miwanuma said:
Ok so I think I have a setup in mind here it is.

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/4236/cmstormsniperblack2.jpg

Pump-MCP-655b (highly rated pump )
Reservoir- XSPC Acrylic D5 (seems like a good res. for my limited space)
Radiator-Swifttech PA 120.3 (good all fan speed rad.)
CPU Block- Koolance CPU-360 (lots of good ratings by tests and owners)
VLV-XTSPIB Drain Valve
Ins-Fm16 Coolant Flow Meter

Diagram
Pump>Radiator>CPU>Flow meter>Drain valve>pump

Removing top of Sniper case, (probably removing handles)
Mod holes on top to drop rad lines into case
Buying 3/8" 2 barbs for pump (rad has 3/8")
8 3/8" compression "nozzle" for hookups
Koolance 3/8" or Feser blue tubing


Feedback is appreciated thanks


I was just looking at your list here...when i mention "note;this RAD uses Fitting Thread: 3/8" BSPP (G3/8) "it's G3/8(internal tread fitting NOT 3/8 ID tubing)
1/2" ID tubing would give you better flow rate
m
0
l
October 8, 2010 4:14:04 PM

Ohhhh glad you mention that going to get 1/2" blue uv koolance or feser tubing. Thanks
m
0
l
a b K Overclocking
October 8, 2010 4:21:03 PM

Quote:
You really don't need a flow meter in a waterloop; that is simply a tool that inexperienced users find they want to have. If you boot up your system and the worst case scenario takes place: pump failure, you still have a few minutes to shut down when you realize your temps rise beyond normal. The in-line water will absorb the heat and allow the loop to keep your components cool enough to shut down without a meltdown.

AFAIK, any modern motherboard/system is smart enough to turn off the PC if the CPU gets too hot. Don't know about the GPU however. And yeah, a flow rate monitor is a big no no as it reduces flow rates.

+1 to rubix and ortoklaz.
m
0
l
a c 330 K Overclocking
October 8, 2010 5:36:54 PM

^Yeah, that is quite true...any modern MB/CPU should go into thermal shutdown before meltdown. I was just making the point that if you run any kind of temp monitoring (and most of the community hopefully does in some form) you would know upon bootup what temps your hardware was running...and likely get some alerts.

I actually had my really old MCP350 (yesss....that one) that would do the 'power-on halt' and you would have to bump it to get it started. I had a few times where I noticed my temps climbed fairly high before I bumped it and it kicked on causing temps to plummet. That was the only thing I disliked about that pump...but no longer is this the issue with the 355's...thankfully.
m
0
l
a b K Overclocking
October 8, 2010 9:59:46 PM

^ lol. I think my uncle still has a MCP350 lying around.
m
0
l
a c 330 K Overclocking
October 8, 2010 10:03:10 PM

It was a great little pump, minus that issue they had. It was like the impeller got hung in a spot where it wouldn't spin up and had to be 'coaxed' into working. Once running, it was a workhorse. Good thing the issue got corrected.
m
0
l
October 9, 2010 1:23:35 AM

Hey all one last question. Been looking at tubing reviews, not a lot of them and the ones I have seem I cant seem to get a good apples to apples (reviews for 1/2" id and a 5/8" od or a 1/2" id x 3/4" od) Common sense tells me that a 3/4" od will be less prone to kinking. Looking for a Blue UV 1/2" not sure about od on it Feser seems popular as well as koolance. I hope you understand what I am trying t say because I am confusing myself lol :o 
m
0
l
a b K Overclocking
October 9, 2010 1:53:04 AM

I prefer Tygon (sory, not much color selection here) or Primo Flex LRT. Here is 1/2" ID LRT: http://www.jab-tech.com/PrimoFlex-Pro-LRT-UV-Blue-Tubin...

I use 1/2" ID. Imo, it is the easiest to work with. As long as the wall is about 1/8" thick, it won't usually kink assuming you are not trying to run some crazy bends.

However, I did learn this trick over at bit tech for problematic bends:
Quote:
There is a trick I recently picked up on another forum and the idea is one of the handiest I've come across in years of watercooling. I used this several times when constructing the lower part of my loop for the Zenith build, and it works great.

If you want to form tubing for tight bends or any bends, you can shape it the way you want, and then immerse it in boiling then in ice water several times repeatedly. I found a spring for $3 at a local ACE hardware that fits perfectly inside of the 0.4375in id tubing to keep it from kinking while forming.

Source: http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-t...
m
0
l
October 9, 2010 2:28:20 AM

Shadow703793 said:


I use 1/2" ID. Imo, it is the easiest to work with. As long as the wall is about 1/8" thick, it won't usually kink assuming you are not trying to run some crazy bends.



That is helpful, Thank you I will check the sites now... Koolance has a 1/2" id x 5/8" od for 1.79/foot that $1 a foot cheaper than a 1/2"id x 3/4"

Koolance
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?...

Feser
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7100/ex-tub-184/Feser...
m
0
l
a c 330 K Overclocking
October 9, 2010 3:31:32 PM

I have used both Tygon and Feser tubing; works great for me.
m
0
l
!