idk where to start, everything I do is encountered with problems. All downhill since I tried overclocking, it kept crashing if it was on for 10 minutes, put every setting to normal and it still did it! So I took out everything on the motherboard and plugged it back in, now my monitor won't show.. Anything! Not even boot, I've tried hdmi to graphics card, hdmi to mobo, hdmi to mobo with gpu out, and same combinations with both a d-sub cord and d-sub with dvi converter. The monitor turns on, then no signal detected! I just want to see my boot logo one more time I'm almost ready to cry
First, switch off the PSU. Second, either take out the CMOS battery (around the size of a quarter and flat) or else jump the CMOS (near the batter should be 3 pins, 2 of them with a sleeve. Move the sleeve over to the other side, then wait 5 seconds and return to original spot). Then turn the PSU back on and try to boot.
Also, list all your parts. Maybe there's an issue with power consumption or who knows what. I guess it also depends on what you did when you tried OCing. Did you BIOS OC, and what did you change?
Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.
Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.
I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case.
You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.
If no beeps: Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.
At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.
The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.
This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.
If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.
Silence or long single beeps indicate a problem with the memory.
Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
Asus m5a88td-V evo 880 or 890 not sure
CPU amd phenom 955 black edition
Ram ripjaws 1.65v 1600 7-8-7-24 but the comp had them at 1.5v 9-9-9-24 1333 so I had it fixed but then put it back after it wouldn't work
Psu OCZ Fatality 550W
Gigabyte nvdia geforce 460x superclocked
Samsung 500gb spinpoint f3
Thanks for showing me that guide! I took out my left ram, nothing, then my right ram and it booted! Then I reinstalled the right ram and it worked! Do you think I have a bad stick of ram is what's making my computer freeze all the time? I know a bad ram stick can *** u like you wouldn't believe
I followed a guide for ocing and had my multiplier to 20 from 16, then to 19.5 for a stable but it started crashing so I inevitably put it back to 16, still had problems.
Figured out that it IS my ram, one stick is bad, because after I took it out I've had no crashing. I've had it for a bit like 1-3 months I can't remember, is there a warranty that will give me a new one?
Not quiet sure it's the ram now, still leaning towards it but I had my "good" ram in and it was going good. Lasted like 10 hours Compared to 10 minutes but 30 seconds ago it just crashed the same way as before. Any ideas?
i ran into similar issues 3 motherboards and 8 gigs of ram later i turned out to be my power supply. Id get it tested to confirm. Your local computer shop will most likely test it for you at a small fee of course.