Hi, thanks for reading my post. I'm in the process of building a system and I'm reusing some parts. I have a ATX case that is roughly 7 years old and would like to know if it can hold today's micro ATX boards? I ask because I don't know if the ATX form factor has undergone any changes over the years or not. The motherboard I plan to use is this. Here is a crisp up close pic of the inside of the case. The jumpers (I think that is the right word) are there from a previous mobo. Will I have to remove those?
Yes, without a doubt the board will fit. The distance from the mounting holes near the power supply and the adapter card slots are the same between ATX and micro-ATX boards. So everything will line up fine. Note at the top of your picture where the metal plate has the holes for built-in connectors - you'll get a new thinner plate with the motherboard to replace that - you'll have to pry out the existing one and remove it.
The jumpers (I think that is the right word) are there from a previous mobo. Will I have to remove those?
Standoffs (plastic) and attachment posts (metal) would be better terms. In your photo, the round holes are for metal attachment posts, which can be un-screwed and moved/removed and the larger slotted holes are for plastic standoffs. You need to match up at least 3 metal posts with screws to the board to keep it from shifting, the other points can be standoffs - the more screwed post points the better.
Once you have the board in hand, carefully compare the screwholes in the new board to see how they match up. Any holes in the board designed for screw attachment to posts will be clearly surrounded by on top by a metal ring and on bottom by either a ring or small protrusions. Any holes which are not so protected should only be used for plastic standoffs - the lack of a metal ring can allow a metal post to short out the board.
After removing or moving any posts that don't match up perfectly, look at how the board will be supported in the case. You don't want the board to be able to flex at all when you press on it to add memory or plug in connectors - especially those you might plug in and remove later like SATA cables. (The processor and its cooler/fan should be inserted and seated before attaching the board to the case.)
Any unsupported portion of the board or holes in the board not matched up to posts should have plastic standoffs inserted. For a hole in the board without a matching post, you can use a plastic standoff with its attachment button snipped off - it won't be actually attached to the case but keeps the board from flexing at that point. If you have unsupported area of the board without any matching hole in case, you may find a hole that can be filled on the case to support it - using a plastic standoff with the other end snipped off. (If you don't have these leftover from the kit that came with the case, they can be ordered - I just go to my box of 100s of leftover parts.)
In the worst case of needing support without any matching placement of holes, then you can fit in any non-conducting material to support the board and prevent possible shorting against the case. Any plastic or paper item that can be cut to fit will work fine - I would often use foam tape combined with a piece of cardboard when needed. Cut the item to its smallest effective size - you don't want to slide a piece of cardboard under the entire board because it will prevent air circulation, reduce heat dissipation and gather dust. Make sure it stays in place and don't use glue on the board! I don't know if regular transparent tape conducts - electrical tape doesn't.
Gosh, didn't mean to write so much. I'm doing the same thing this coming week so been thinking about it myself and I rarely build systems anymore. Good luck and enjoy your new computer!
Oh! I assume you're getting a new big-Watt power supply. Any PS that came with that case won't do the job.