New PSU, higher temps?

[DJready]

My comp spec:

- Intel Dual core E6300 2.80Ghz (oc)~ 3.2Ghz
- Asus P5QPL-AM
- 2Gb Ram 800mhz
- Ati Radeon HD 4650 1Gb (oc)~ 715/515
- Tv Tuner card
- Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 (push config)
- 1 rear case fan (pull config)

I have changed my old Spirepower 420w, +12@15A with this one:

Chieftec APS-500S 500W A135 ATX EPS Power Supply w/80 Plus
http://www.xpcgear.com/chieftec-aps-500s-power-supply.html

Basicly it has 500w, +12@18A, +12@18A (it can power 432w on 12 line rails).

I connected it correctly and the same way the old one was. But i noticed difference in my System temp:

When i start the computer for the first time, temps start at 30c and it slowly rises up to 39c and stays there, cpu idles at 40c.

Durning Prime 95 System temp are still at 39c while cpu max is 46c. While gaming System can get to 43-45c and cpu 40-41c.


On my old PSU Spirepower my System temps pritty much idle at 35c and cpu idles at 40c.
Prime 95, System temp can get from 35-40c and cpu max is 46c. While gaming System can get to 35-40c and cpu 40-41c.

NOTICE: Psu cables on my old one was pritty much messy with the new one i hide all cables in the floppy box area since i dont have floppy disk and move them away from motherboard.

The Vcore, +12V and AVcc are all the same as old PSU.

Bouth Systems wer overclocked with bouth PSU.

Ok so my question is why do i get higher temps with better quality and more powerfull PSU than with my old one? System temps are 4c higher than before

 

[acer0169]

Most PSU's run at different temps. It depends on what size and power fans they have, what heatsinks are installed, and what their build quality is like. My 1100W keeps pretty cool at idle staying cold to the touch. But if I load up some Crysis or GTA4, meaning my CPU/GPUs are using more power, my PSU can get warm to the touch and expels more hot air out the back.

On the flip side, I have a ANTEC 550W in my other computer which gets pretty hot at idle and in games is like a little radiator - throwing out very hot air out the back.

I wouldn't be worried about the higher temps. Sometimes that's just how things go. The fact it's a more powerful PSU does (in general) mean more heat will be produced, but from my example above this isn't always the case.

 

[DJready]

But isn't System temp the motherboard temperature? so the motherboard is generating heat not psu?

 

[henydiah]

temperature motherborad can handle max HOT 128*C don't worry about your mobo it's still ok, no problem for PSU & Temperature... all Ok
if you be worry add big Fan install for exhaust min 80mm, add Fan on your Nortbridge,

 

[DJready]

uhm, also is it normal that System temp in some games is 3-5c higher than cpu in gaming and not in prime 95? on my old psu System temp was usually around same or lower temp than cpu temp was.

 

[henydiah]

just 3-5C very very no problem Ok!
your Proc max temp 70C
Mobo 128C
HDD 55C

 

[abswindows7]

Very good choice on the power supply.
You should buy an extra cpu/ram/motherboard/hard drive/grpahic card in case it decides to explode

 

[DJready]

The APS series is all Sirfa/Sirtec builds. They are all pretty good.
PSU it self is cold to the touch and it's not blowing hot air out

Chieftec has good psu that can match with corsairs and Antec and they are lot cheaper. Why? because its not fancy name like corsair or antec wich you pay extra just cuz of name.

I must say that i have a midi ATX so it's pritty tight in there also i only have 1 rear case fan with push pull config with cpu fan.

There is hardly any air movment there so thats why it's hot but anyways.. system temps are settled down now and it's at 36c idle.

 

[tx-jose]

Most PSU's run at different temps. It depends on what size and power fans they have, what heatsinks are installed, and what their build quality is like. My 1100W keeps pretty cool at idle staying cold to the touch. But if I load up some Crysis or GTA4, meaning my CPU/GPUs are using more power, my PSU can get warm to the touch and expels more hot air out the back.

On the flip side, I have a ANTEC 550W in my other computer which gets pretty hot at idle and in games is like a little radiator - throwing out very hot air out the back.

I wouldn't be worried about the higher temps. Sometimes that's just how things go. The fact it's a more powerful PSU does (in general) mean more heat will be produced, but from my example above this isn't always the case.

^^^ x2

Generally a larger PSU will run a lil hotter than a smaller one since you are putting more power to your board. More power = higher temps generally. if you want lower temps add a higher CFM fan to your PSU but i wouldn't recommend opening up a PSU unless you KNOW what your doing. I have done a few and its mostly the PSU guts that you have to worry about shocking your self and it can kill you....remember 4 mili amps through the heart and thats it your a goner!!!

 

[DJready]

the psu fan already has 14cm fan. Temps got settled down now and its idle 36c.
But anyways i was already was gonna buy a case fan for side panel to push the air towards motherboard.

what do you recommend?

 

[tx-jose]

coolermaster makes 90CFM 120mm fans i think they are $10

 

[henydiah]

hey.... Djready.. what is different temp 3-5*C make u cannot sleep...?

 

[DJready]

i know xD, but i already planed to this before the new psu, to make some airflow inside the case sice i only have 1 rear case fan.

 

[RetiredChief]

First off, Yes it is possible for a Larger, or even a smaller PSU (interems of wattage) to have a small effect ton temps @ the MB level. This is do to the small change in supply voltage, ie one PSU may put out 11.9 Volts while a second PSU may have 12.2 V output. Both well in specs. As others said don't sweat it, and yes I'd install a rear fan blowin out.

To correct a misconception stated in Tx-jose's post.
"Generally a larger PSU will run a lil hotter than a smaller one since you are putting more power to your board."

This is totally incorrect. If a MB (system) uses say 300 Watts then it will use 300 watts using a 400 Watt PSU and 300 Watts using a 1 KW PSW. The larger PSU will run cooler as it is designed to dissipate x amount of Heat at its max rated wattage. The lower the percent of utilization, the lower the temp. The 400 watt PSU would be at 75% load, while the 1 KW PSU would only be at 30% load. Therefore would run cooler.

As to quality, Could not really find independent reviews. As most company only market PSUs they do not make them, only provide specs for the build and it is all in the specs (Not just the wattage). Only one I found:
http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?s=401440fe4619300f07366ae0267d4ebc&t=75512&page=2

As too choice. In your Case I would have gone with an Corsair 450 watt, for less money. I paid about that for a corsair 650 W (on sale then @ newegg). The corsair 500 Watt is currently $50, so name brand, and having one of the top ratings, does not always equate to a big cost increase.

Added, afterthought. The temps inside your case are effected by the change in airflow in side the case. Diff PSUs will intake more, or less air from inside the case. In youre case I believe that PSU is marketed as a "low noise" PSU which means it is probably pulling in less air from inside the case than your old PSU. This effect is more notable on cases with poor airflow.

 

[DJready]

Yeah in usa things are cheap in euro or at least wehre i live unfortunaly are not, Corsair 400cx is 74$, 450vx is 100$, so you can imagine how high whould a 500w be and its not just corsair same goes for seasonic, OCZ, Antec, Be quiet... while Chieftec APS-500S 500W A135 EPS 80 Plus is 73€. I mean i understand its not uber cool name like corsair but its defenetly not a low class.

as you can see the specs it can deliver up to 150w on 5v, +3,3v
also it can deliver up to 432w on +12 lines all in all more than corsair 450VX wich is more expensive.

 

[Twoboxer]

We don't see many Chieftec psus here. Few have been reviewed by qualified reviewers, their Turbo line being an exception. That line is made by Channel Well, and was reasonably well received by xbit. That is not your line.

I can show you many psus with *brilliant* specs that do not deliver close to what they claim.

Since most of the hardware problems resolved here are psu issues, mostly from unreviewed, cheap psus, . . . well that's the first reason you are getting the reception you've gotten.

The seoncd is that if the cpu/mobo is running hotter with this new psu, the first suspicion is something about the psu is making the cpu/mobo work harder. Out of spec voltage, higher ripple/noise . . . something.

At the end of the day I guess I'd say this: if the new psu results in higher temps and you are worried about it, replace the psu. If you're not worried, its probably nothing anyhow.

 

[RetiredChief]

I'm very familar with the cost diff. between England and US, have three brother-in-laws living in Cambridge. General it seams you pay in pounds what we pay in Dollars - that an automatice 50% increase. It also seams we have "Sales" alittle more often.

As twoboxer atated, it's not about the Wattage ratings, but in the components used.

Again, I would not worry about the few degrees diff. Would recommend and fan at the back of the case.

Keep an eye on stability of +12/+5 V. Download HDMonitor which displays min/max and current voltage. After running for 5 Mins @ idle, reset min/max then run Prime 95 and note the diff between min max. A good PSU should only have maybe a couple of 10ths diff and the +5 maybe 0.1 v diff.

 

[DJready]

Vcore is at 1.17-1.18v with a normal usage browsing folders, browsing web it can get to 1.21v. Durning load Vcore gets to stable 1.30v it dosent jump.

+5v is going from 5.11 to 5.14v.

im not worried about processor its fine same temp as before (40c idle,46c with prime, 40-41c while gaming).

Just my motherboard i did notice northbridge is bit hot on a touch (i did not mesure how high, just a little hot)

So thats why im going with side fan to get some airflow there and might even go with chipset fan or better aftermarket chipset heatsink.

Agean even with no side fan the mobo temps are 38c idle and depends on a load 43-45c.

Why i make such a fus about it? hmm dunno could be just me, cuz with my old weak psu my idle temps wer 35c idle and 38-40c load and mobo was always cooler than cpu. Thats the only reason me wanting to cool it down so i get to my old temps or even lower.

found a review on same version psu as mine only mine is 500w.

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cases/display/chieftec-psus_2.html#sect1

 

[Twoboxer]

Thanks for that review - even thugh its recent, somehow I missed it.

It may be your slightly higher temperatures are the mobo working harder to regulate 5V. Dunno lol.

"The output voltage ripple at full load is slightly above the allowable limit on the +5V rail, but you should not worry about those individual short spikes shooting above the 50-millivolt line. They are not going to affect your computer’s stability. The other two rails are all right in this test, too".

Anyhow, good luck!

 

[abswindows7]

More heat coming out the psu means a less efficient psu.

80 plus gold psu don't even need a fan to cool it down since there is almost no heat loss.

 

[DJready]

the heat isnt coming out of the psu -.-"

 

[abswindows7]

the heat isnt coming out of the psu -.-"

OP SAYS

Ok so my question is why do i get higher temps with better quality and more powerfull PSU than with my old one? System temps are 4c higher than before

ZOMGOKTHXBAILOL

 

[DJready]

lol what you dont understand? Psu is cold and rear of the psu isnt blowing out hot air.
My system isnt all that demaning, pfft its not even gaming its more htc so isnt working even 50%

As i said before it's Northbridge getting hot. Why is the NB getting hot? i dunno as twinboxer said maybe mobo is trying to regulate 5V.

 

[abswindows7]

It's probably a question of heatspeaders, they must suck.

You may want to reseat the heatspeader and add some thermal paste it should help.

 

[Twoboxer]

@OP: I think we're sort of beating a dead horse, but let me ask . . . did you change the heatsink in between your temperature readings on the old psu and the higher readings on the new cpu?

By how you've conducted yourself and reported the problem and information, my assumption is that you did not - because that would be an obvious potential source of different temperature readings.

I think you're fine myself. But if your findings are correct - ie, a cpu can run hotter with a psu judged "OK" despite slight out of spec ripple - it puts a whole new light on what OCers should use for power supplies lol.