Sign in with
Sign up | Sign in
Your question

My new water loop

Last response: in Overclocking
Share
November 14, 2010 12:51:06 AM

$100 watercooling project :sol:  With 2 Dangerden gpu maze 5, swiftech apogee gt cpu block, asetek universal chipset block , mcp600 pump, and ford bronco hater core :bounce:  For now all i have is a screen of the temps at 100% gpu and cpu load but when i get ahold of a camera ill take some shots of the inside.

LOAD
core 47C
GPU1 67C
GPU2 59C
NB 43C

IDLE
core 31C
GPU1 35C
GPU2 37C
NB 29C

Room temp 25C
CPU is a phenom 2 955 @ 4.2ghz 1.6v
GPU is 2 radeon hd 5770 @ 920 core and 1450 memory
Before WC i was getting up to 65C with a sunbeam core cantact freezer 120.

More about : water loop

a b à CPUs
a c 324 K Overclocking
November 15, 2010 3:00:24 PM

Copper blocks, aluminum radiator? Bad idea.
m
0
l
Related resources
a b à CPUs
a b K Overclocking
November 15, 2010 3:32:33 PM

^ Actually, in most of the heatercores, the tubing is either copper or brass. The fins are usually Aluminum due to cost,etc. I had a hacked set up like this before I got the proper gear :) .

@OP: DO make sure the tubing is brass or copper. If it isn't MAKE SURE you are running at least 20% Ethlyne Glycol to avoid galvanic corrosion.
m
0
l
a b à CPUs
a c 324 K Overclocking
November 15, 2010 4:38:03 PM

I'd hope so, because I know some heatercores are all aluminum for lower cost all-around...and since cars are running radiator coolant...this would prevent galvanic corrosion there...

That, and aluminum radiators.
m
0
l
November 16, 2010 4:16:14 PM

The radiator is all copper, the stuff that looks like aluminum is the solder that they hold it together with :)  and i use PC ICE and it has anti corrosives in it anyway.
m
0
l
a b à CPUs
a c 324 K Overclocking
November 16, 2010 4:29:08 PM

I meant the fins on the sides look rather 'silver', and there wouldn't be solder. I guess you might have copper tubes and aluminum fins...
m
0
l
November 16, 2010 4:47:38 PM

the fins are soldered to the tubes and to the other fins, i ripped one of the fins when i was mounting it and it was all copper inside.



EDIT>>> i went down to the autoparts store where i got it and confirmed thet the top, bottom, and sides are brass and the tubes and fins are copper :) 
m
0
l
a b à CPUs
a b K Overclocking
November 17, 2010 12:52:56 AM

johnathon007 said:
The radiator is all copper, the stuff that looks like aluminum is the solder that they hold it together with :)  and i use PC ICE and it has anti corrosives in it anyway.

Don't bother with PC ICE. It's pretty much a gimmick. Since you have copper tubing and no mixed metals, you are MUCH better off running pure distilled water and PT Nuke.
m
0
l
November 17, 2010 2:05:35 AM

I know that the pure water is better but this is my first WC computer so i wanted something that wouldnt fry my computer if for some reason it did leak, When it comes time to change out i will probably just refill with distilled water and some kind of additive, originaly i was looking at hydrx and it seems to have good enough reviews and PT nuke also looks like a good option so in 6 months or so i might switch over.
m
0
l
a b à CPUs
a c 324 K Overclocking
November 17, 2010 12:00:55 PM

Distilled water is best...and in pristine state is non-conductive. Now, after several months of running through your loops, picking up copper, that might be a different story...which is why we recommend flushing and filling a loop every 6 months or so. That...and stuff that grows.
m
0
l
a b à CPUs
a b K Overclocking
November 17, 2010 12:01:01 PM

Fact: It WILL fry your PC if it leaks. All those "non conductive" fluid is BS. Over time (in little as 1hr or so) the liquid will become conductive.
m
0
l
a b à CPUs
a c 324 K Overclocking
November 17, 2010 12:17:14 PM

It's just a whole lot easier to make sure you do a good job installing/setting up your loop, first, instead of finding out the hard way...later.
m
0
l
a b à CPUs
a b K Overclocking
November 17, 2010 3:57:56 PM

^ This x1000.
m
0
l
!