How come people don't like feaser1?

[blackpanther26]

I'm wondering why dose some people do not like feaser one as a coolant. As of so far I have feaser one in my computer and like it. And as far as non-conductive coolant gose feaser is the best at cooling. http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2008/02/16/watercooling_fluid_shootout/1

 

[rubix_1011]

Many of these coolants will particulate out and collect in the pin matrices of water blocks. I'd have to look it up, but there might be a link somewhere showing a prime example of what happens when you use something other than just distilled water.

This guy started this thread specifically because of Feser1. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=3837299

 

[delluser1]

Many of these coolants will particulate out and collect in the pin matrices of water blocks. I'd have to look it up, but there might be a link somewhere showing a prime example of what happens when you use something other than just distilled water.

This guy started this thread specifically because of Feser1. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=3837299

Saw that thread awhile ago, some people claim that it hasn't happened to them, why the hell would anybody even risk it after seeing that ?

 

[rubix_1011]

No idea. You are far better off using colored/UV tubing, or at minimum, finding GOOD dye that won't particulate out. I'm guessing that Feser stuff is some kind of glycol mix, which is why he saw that accumulation under 24/7 Folding and heat. He basically caramelized the coolant.

 

[blackpanther26]

how long before the buildup? I mean I like that this stuff cools like water compared to Fluid XP. I have no problem taking the block apart to clean it. Also next fluid change I may buy filters. But then again when I start to notice changes in my temps on my CPU block to start riesing I'll just use distilled water with the UV Dye from Feaser. I hope it'll be ok for at least 6 months. for me though I have an arcrilic block.

 

[rubix_1011]

Filters? For...?

It's your choice, I suppose. Most cases of the 'Feser gunk' have been of people running their machines 24/7 and often doing moderate to high load work like Folding, etc, which generated sustained temps. I've used Feser1, I didn't have it gunk up, but I didn't run it all that long...maybe a couple months; my box is off most days anyway, so it was limited use.

Distilled water is dirt cheap ($1-ish/gallon) and PTnuke ($4, only need a few drops) and killcoils ($6, lasts forever or until the apocolypse; whichever comes first) vs. $20 a bottle of coolant, which still needs distilled to mix in most cases.

Your choice. Personally, if you want color, look into some good dyes or colored tubing.

Link to Skinnee's tests on coolants and water, all perform within 1 degree C, which is negligible:

http://skinneelabs.com/coolants.html?page=3

 

[Conumdrum]

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=4544766&postcount=1
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6665651#post6665651
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=260835

Pure water and a biocide is best. Distilled or Deionized is cheap too. Not like the pure LOL water Feser sells.

 

[blackpanther26]

yeah. well like I said before I herd this I bought it. so I'm right now stuck with it until it's time for new fluid wich I may go with distiled water and a UV die. Any one know of a good die?

 

[rofl_my_waffle]

I would stay away from UV dye, It can stain plastics and tubing. I would also stay away from biocide (you don't need it).
Get UV reactive tubing. UV reactivity degrades over time but tubing lasts much much longer than fluids.

Any type of additive would make water dry slower. Instead of drying under a couple minutes, it can take several hours or perhaps several days. This can be problematic if you spilled some on your motherboard.

Also additives leave residue when dried. Another thing to cleanup and it doesn't impact performance.

Distilled water is free of algae and bacteria, thats why it is always clean on store shelves. Algae isn't airborne, only you can introduce it into your loop. Most common way is to rinsing with tap water.

Don't buy Feser deionized water, its more expensive than it should be. Like $4 can get you a gallon of deionized water. Any store with an automotive section should have deionized water, it is used for mixing with anti-freeze for car radiators.

 

[blackpanther26]

thing is there is no UV reative tubing in 1/2 ID 5/8 OD to use with my compression fittings. NV koolance has it. so next time I need a fluid change I'll go with the koolance UV blue reactive tubing.

 

[rubix_1011]

Where are you looking? Most companies make UV reactive 1/2" ID tubing.

 

[blackpanther26]

I know but I need a specific size to fit my 1/2 ID / 5/8 OD compression fittings and koolance has them. http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=765 When I have the money I'm going to dual loop and put a GPU on one of them.

 

[rubix_1011]

So you need thin walled tubing. I did see some Tygon on Frozencpu.com but it was mainly clear or solid black.

You could go with 7/16"ID and 5/8"OD; many people do this and will be fine. The tubing will be snug over the fittings, but will work well.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c99/s809/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing-716_ID_Tubing-Page1.html

 

[ortoklaz]

^+1 you also won't be getting paranoid about the tubing getting kinked
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c99/s809/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing-716_ID_Tubing-Page1.html

 

[blackpanther26]

Best answer selected by blackpanther26.