Well... Umm... Since next year, I plan for a SB build, and BOY does that thing look like an OC beast. I was thinking to start on learning about water cooling. Granted I will probably leave 1500$ for the computer, and the rest like 400$ for WCing. I wanted to just start learning about WCing.

Yes. I Well... Umm... Since next year, I plan for a SB build, and BOY does that thing look like an OC beast. I was thinking to start on learning about water cooling. Granted I will probably leave 1500$ for the computer, and the rest like 400$ for WCing. I wanted to just start learning about WCing.

Yes. I have looked at the stickies, there is all these tubings, barbs, T-somethings, clamps, Blocks, rads, pumps, and res. I just don't get it. Like the explanations are crystal clear but I kind of have a hard time comprehending whats with what, you know what I mean? I get the "G 1/4" and 3/8 tubing and what not but I don't under stand which tubing to get. It's SOOO CONFUSING. Simplify please?

OH if you were wondering which guide, I was look at this. A bit old but still very updated as I was looking at reviews for each product. I know pre-planning a year (yes I plan to get this in Dec of next year) is pretty long time to judge all the things that'll come out, but I know for sure some things I'm going to do as to keep budget. Saving money would be lovely! I was reading through and I found that keeping a budget may be an issue. Since I found that I may have to invest in more WCing that planned. The rad thread, I saw that I was going to need at least a 120.3 (whatever that means =P) or a 120.2. I found that I was either going to do either CF 6850's or a single Cayman when it comes out. So... Judging from the rad guide, I don't think I can cool two 6850's OC'd & an SB OC'd in a H20-220 loop huh?

I also need some simplifying on the installation side. I'm treading into like dark space right here. I'm more confused than when I was building a computer... Like 20x more confused. Since all the barbs and tubing and size measurements ETC. I don't know what to do. Can someone simplify or also submit a video where someone installs a WC loop correctly and explains. (I used to Youtube to learn to build comps, can't believe it. Only took 1 year too :lol:)

Oh and... I was thinking about getting full GPU blocks, not just a GPU chip covering block. So.... Do you think it is possible for that loop to cool 2 full block OC'd GPUs and an OC'd SB? I'm scared it can't keep up. I was thinking of changing out those stock H20 fans for 2 Scythe 1600rpm Slipstreams, combined for 166 CFM. Reading up rads, is that to much for a 120.2 H20? It said that too much CFM isn't always good since the 120.2 & 120.1 rads have lower air resistance than 120.3's. Also FPI was confusing. And last question, is coolants and dyes and all that stuff. I'm confused about, problems with buying pre-made liquids and making your own. Also I was shooting for a white & black theme, is there such a dye or tubing that is just white?

Loop I'm looking at: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=26994
guide: http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=282232

Sorry this is such a long post,
Thanks in advance.
 

ortoklaz

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G1/4,G3/8-Fitting Threads: "G1/4 are most common threads(water blocks,radiators)
tubing size(ID) 1/4,3/8,7/16,1/2 (3/8 and 1/2 most common and easy to work with)
LC loop/s consists of pump,radiator,(reservoir or T-line) which are all connected by barbs or compression fittings,etc
Radiators-(FPI) fins per inch= noise/heat dissipation/..;


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Ermmm what is an LC loop? Also what's the difference between fitting threads and tubing? IT seems like they are like the same thing. But from what I get from your explaination, you have fitting threads that are attached to the water blocks and rads, then you use barbs and "compression fittings" to connect those? Right? And what is the T-Line for?

Oh and would you say that the H20-220 rad is a good choice? I mean I was looking at HW Lab products, and the Black Ice line looks to be an interesting prospect. Like there 240's.
 

Conumdrum

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Gosh no, you need a 120x3 for the GPU's alone and a 120x2 size for the CPU. You can make two loops if needed. Your looking at at least $600, more like $700 for the watercooling. The 6850 blocks alone are what? $130 each?

Your best bet is to start reading and learning if your very very new. I also was new.

Here is the link you 'should' start with, your guide you linked to is pretty good. You need lots more.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6489396&postcount=3

Weeks if not a couple months is what your timeline should be. Don't gloss over any of it, read it again and again if you need to.
 
Yeah Conumdrum, I didn't link that link haha. YOU DID! I was looking at the links off your sticky. Helped a bit, but some kind of confused me which is why I opened this thread. And OH So I actually need a much larger rad than i thought :p See I was reading up and from what I saw, IT said I could probably run an OC'd cpu and a single card. IT said MAYBE a CF STOCK setup.

Also, is it possible to use 500$ instead? Since blocks might get cheaper as we move on. I looked up pricing also, and 6850 shouldn't cost that much (I couldn't find any on Performance-PCs) but umm 6870 blocks only cost 100$, full blocks at least from EK.

A 120x3 =P That's a pretty big rad, So should I be looking at 120x3 for the gpus and another 120x2 for just the CPU? Or can I use the 120x3 for both the CPU and GPUs? I mean I would like to stick with Lian-Li, love the asthetics on their cases, plus the aluminum bodies. I WAS looking at their Armorsuit PC50 WB but now that I found out I need a 120x3 I'm assuming I got to start looking at the A70F or something along the full tower lines?
 

rubix_1011

Contributing Writer
Moderator
Depending on your time frame, it might be worthwhile to see how the new Feser Admiral radiators end up performing. They are behind schedule on being released, but are supposed to revolutionize the radiator market...that being said...'we'll see'.

But yes, you are going to be looking at $500 minimum for this loop...unless you make it 2 loops...then even more with the addition of a second pump.

If you are going the route of full-cover GPU blocks, you will pay about twice what you would for a universal block, like the MCW80. So, it's up to you on what choices to make there. Yeah, full cover blocks are typically great (I wish I had 2 of them, but I am happy with my MCW60's) but full cover blocks cost a decent amount and don't work from one card generation to the next.

And yes...you'll need 2 rads for that configuration, exactly how it was stated. If you ran a single loop with everything, you would likely benefit from slightly lower temps by using the cooling ability of both rads in the single loop. You'd need a beefy pump like the MCP655 or the newer MCP35x.
 
Ok, so let me get this straight, I could potentially have 360 and 240 in one loop and get lower temps? So that'd mean I wouldn't have to get seperate things for each loop right. Also, yeah I was reading up on pumps and I'm a bit confused. I see this Liang D5 and plates etc. etc. But I'm confused. Is Liang a pump?

Got confused reading this: http://skinneelabs.com/d5-tops.html

Oh and I was looking at this MCP655 with a 3/8" barb, is that a good choice? It was this pump: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2128/ex-pmp-27/Swiftech_MCP655-B_12v_Water_Pump_w_38_Conversion_Kit_317_GPH.html

What does 317 GPH mean? And when I was looking at the skinee labs review on the Apogee XT, it said it performed best at 1.38 GPM, what's that mean?

http://skinneelabs.com/i7-blocks-2.html
 

ortoklaz

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360+240 in one loop it's good choice (one loop consists of one pump,reservoir and radiator/s of your choice....two loops-2 pumps,2 reservoir and [in your case] 1 radiator per loop and more tubing/fittings)
one MCP 655 can handle all your needs in single loop

I'm not going to mention parallel loops to keep things simple
 

rubix_1011

Contributing Writer
Moderator
Ok, listen...

You'd be just fine with a single loop...I have one with an MCP655 and it runs great. Having all your components in series with both radiators will allow everything to use the cooling potential of both rads.

More stuff:

That pump is native 1/2" ID...you'd likely want to run this over 3/8"ID...that is just an adapter barb...doesn't need to be used.

What '280' rad are you talking about? If you need some specifics, PM me...this thread is getting out of control.