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WHat am I doing wrong?

Tags:
  • Routers
  • Modem
  • Cable
  • Computers
  • Networking
Last response: in Networking
July 25, 2009 2:40:43 AM

I'm having problems setting up my network. I pulled cat5 cable from the garage through the attic into each room. I tested each cable and all test fine. I've got a signal to my modem.. I can connect direct from the modem to the computer or from the modem through a dlink DI-604 to the computer. If I move the modem to the garage and hook it to the 1st run into the living room....nothing. I'm using a Motorla SB5101; when I move the modem to the garage.. the pc/activity light never lights up. I can bring the modem back in direct to the computer and it works fine. It's so frustrating.

Thanks for any help ahead of time. Sorry for the long post and the non-use of paragraphs.

More about : wrong

July 25, 2009 1:38:16 PM

Quote:
If I move the modem to the garage and hook it to the 1st run into the living room....nothing.
If you move the modem to the garage, how does it connect to the Internet? That's the part that you haven't explained.

Assuming that the modem works fine where it currently is installed:

- The DI-604 should be in the garage,
- There should be one Cat5 cable to connect the modem to the DI-604
- Each computer should be connected to a Cat5 cable connected to the DI-604.

I presume that the DI-604 is your router, DHCP server, etc.
July 25, 2009 1:50:54 PM

I have co ax cable to the garage. My problem is, I can't seem to get any info through the cat5 cable I have run through my attic. They all test good with a remote tester, but not when I hook them up to my computer.
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July 25, 2009 2:18:50 PM

Are your cables wired correctly?
July 25, 2009 2:59:01 PM

Coax cable = yes. I get a signal to the router fine.

Cat5 = yes. I have a tester which has a remote transmitter which tests fine on all 8 wires.
July 25, 2009 3:32:52 PM

packrfanfw said:
Coax cable = yes. I get a signal to the router fine.

Cat5 = yes. I have a tester which has a remote transmitter which tests fine on all 8 wires.
You got me confused. Are you testing it with a specialized tester?

Are the pairs wired as follows?

Pair 1 - pin 1 White/Green and pin 2 Green
Pair 2 - pin 3 White/Orange and pin 6 Orange
Pair 3 - pin 4 Blue and pin 5 White/Blue
Pair 4 - pin 7 White/Brown and pin 8 Brown

July 25, 2009 8:03:04 PM

Yes, I am testing the cables with a CompuCable tester. It has a remote that you put on one end of the cable and the tester on the other. It tests each wire one at a time.

I wired both ends in the T568B configuration:

Pair 1 - pin 1 White/orange and pin 2 orange
Pair 2 - pin 3 White/green and pin 6 blue
Pair 3 - pin 4 Blue and pin 5 White/Blue
Pair 4 - pin 7 White/Brown and pin 8 Brown

I was told it didn't matter which configuration I used ( T568-A or T568B) I used, as long as each end is the same.

Should I have wired them as "cross over" configuration?
July 25, 2009 8:41:38 PM

Quote:
Should I have wired them as "cross over" configuration?
Definitely not. The T568A is the standard wiring, but using T568B shouldn't cause problems. I find it difficult to believe that all cables are bad. What happens if you connect the DI-604 in the garage and a PC at the other end (in any of the rooms)? Does the PC connect to the router and can it get or renew its IP address? If not, how long are your cables?
July 25, 2009 9:13:20 PM

I've changed the configuration a little because I need to keep this computer connected to the net.

Here's how it is set-up:

Modem--->DI-604 Router---> 8 port switch.

When I try ipconfig or ip/renew... it says "media not attached" or something like that.
July 25, 2009 10:20:13 PM

If you attach a PC directly to the router via a stub cable, does it work? Is the switch port connected to the router active? It looks like your cables just don't work or you bought cheap Cat5 cables and you might have to use T568A wiring (not all pairs are equal).
July 25, 2009 10:39:42 PM

A pc connected directly to the router or switch connects fine. The cable I used is the same cable used by Verizon for their internet service.
July 25, 2009 11:43:10 PM

And the wiring of that cable is T568A? If so, then I would try to rewire one cable as per the T568A specs to see if it works.
July 26, 2009 12:23:33 AM

http://www.utm.edu/staff/leeb/568/568.htm

pin 1 White/orange
pin 2 orange
pin 3 White/green
pin 4 Blue
pin 5 White/Blue
pin 6 green
pin 7 White/Brown
pin 8 Brown

Sharp bends in the installed Cat5 wires?
Staples into the Cat5 wire?
Cat5 run near an AC power line?

Using short patch cables:
What happens when a computer is attached to the modem in the garage?
What happens when modem, router and a computer are hooked up in the garage?
July 26, 2009 1:55:28 AM

Where is your drop? In the garage or in another room? Where is the modem? Can you talk about your network layout please? modem >long cable > router>switch>pc??

Attach pc directly to the modem with a patch cable and see if it works. If it does,
July 31, 2009 10:52:53 PM

Sorry I haven't been back in a while... I had an accident and am just able to get back into trouble shooting this problem.

So here is the set-up:

Motorola SB5101 Cable Modem-->D-Link DI-604 Router(both in Living room)-main computer hooked directly to router, xbox 360 hooked directly to router--> ethernet cable through wall to ENCORE ENH908-NWY 8 port switch. Media Center PC connected to 8 port switch(connects fine-no problems at all(can be seen by xbox 360 on network to watch recorded tv)--> 2 cat 5 cables run up 8ft wall, 20 ft through attic and down 8 ft wall to wall plate in sons room. Originally, both cables were wired in the "b" configuration. Now I have one of each "a" and "b" configuration. 2 cables from wall plate(both in "b" configuration) one to second xbox 360 and one to third pc. No signal to son's pc or xbox 360. ipconfig run on 3rd pc says:Media State....................:media disconnected.

I have tested all cables with a CompuCable tester and they all test fine.

Solutions I have tried:
Having one end of cable through attic wired as cross over = nothing
Running a crossover cable from D-Link DI-604 to Encore 8 port switch.

One thing I am curious about...what configuration are store bought cables... "a" or "b" or cross over?
Does the cable from the wall plate to the 3rd pc need to be a "crossover" cable?

Another thing I noticed is the light on the 8 port switch only light up for the media pc in the closet and the power light.

Thanks for all the help guys and gals, this is a very frustrating problem.

BTW: there are no sharp bends in the cat5 or runs near any electrical cables.
August 1, 2009 12:27:03 AM

Quote:
One thing I am curious about...what configuration are store bought cables... "a" or "b" or cross over?
It should be T568A. A crossover cable has one end with the pairs reversed.

Quote:
Does the cable from the wall plate to the 3rd pc need to be a "crossover" cable?
Crossover cables are not required. This is the first time that you mention wall plates. What's the wiring scheme between the wall plates? Are the wall plates approved for your application?

What's written on your cables? Anything about T568A or T568B?

It definitely looks like you have a wiring issue.
August 1, 2009 12:46:53 AM

GhislainG said:
Quote:
One thing I am curious about...what configuration are store bought cables... "a" or "b" or cross over?
It should be T568A. A crossover cable has one end with the pairs reversed.

Quote:
Does the cable from the wall plate to the 3rd pc need to be a "crossover" cable?
Crossover cables are not required. This is the first time that you mention wall plates. What's the wiring scheme between the wall plates? Are the wall plates approved for your application?

What's written on your cables? Anything about T568A or T568B?

It definitely looks like you have a wiring issue.



The wall plates are blank plates that the "keystone type" connector goes in. The keystone connector has a color code for wiring either "a" or "b" configuration. These are very simple to use.

I'm just confused how it could be a wiring issue if my tester says the wiring is fine.

This is the tester I'm using: http://www.amazon.com/Compucable-Manufacturing-CTK-MNCT...
August 1, 2009 1:07:41 AM

All you tester can prove is that you have no broken wires, not that the cables are wired correctly. What's written on your cables?
August 1, 2009 1:09:23 AM

GhislainG said:
All you tester can prove is that you have no broken wires, not that the cables are wired correctly. What's written on your cables?



On the cables that are run through the attic?
August 1, 2009 1:11:03 AM

it looks to me that it test more than just broken wires:

Product Description
The Enhanced Multi-Network Cable Tester with Tone Generator is a perfect companion to any network professionals. It can enhance the technician's ability to quickly locate and verify the status of a commonly used voice and data cable. The test function include: loop-back, continuity, open, shorts, miss-wire and pin-to-pin configuration. This tester is capable of generating a low emission frequency "tone". When coupled with a compatible tone tracer, can allow a technician to quickly isolate and locate the cable being tested. Everything comes packaged in a convenient carrying pouch (requires a 9V battery to operate).
August 1, 2009 2:25:17 AM

Can it test all 4 pairs at once? Does it test the Ethernet pairs at 100 Mbps or Gigabit speeds? There's another tester that should be bought along with it, but it tests Ethernet 10/100 Mbps only.

Quote:
On the cables that are run through the attic?
Yes.
August 1, 2009 2:45:12 AM

GhislainG said:
Can it test all 4 pairs at once? Does it test the Ethernet pairs at 100 Mbps or Gigabit speeds? There's another tester that should be bought along with it, but it tests Ethernet 10/100 Mbps only.

Quote:
On the cables that are run through the attic?
Yes.



CAT-5E General Cable J CMX Outdoor-CMR (UL) C (UL) CMG 4 PR 24 AWG SW--- Verified (UL) CAT-5E BOC 10-06 031643J2 CAT-5E PAT 5767441
August 1, 2009 3:30:22 AM

The cables should work, unless they exceed 100m total. Have you tried bypassing the wall plates? Does a cable work if you have an RJ45 jack at each end and nothing else? Would you still have enough cable to make a long cable to see if it works?
August 1, 2009 4:56:13 PM

GhislainG said:
The cables should work, unless they exceed 100m total. Have you tried bypassing the wall plates? Does a cable work if you have an RJ45 jack at each end and nothing else? Would you still have enough cable to make a long cable to see if it works?



The wall Plates are nothing more than plates that the "keystone" jack snaps into.

I do have enough cable, that's a good idea. I'll give that a try and see what happens.
August 1, 2009 5:05:53 PM

If you make a cable, use the T568A wiring scheme. Your issues should either be with the wall plates or the connectors (I once had lots of issues with cheap connectors).
August 1, 2009 10:43:22 PM

GhislainG said:
If you make a cable, use the T568A wiring scheme. Your issues should either be with the wall plates or the connectors (I once had lots of issues with cheap connectors).



Here's the latest:

I wired directly into the 8 port switch with another computer. WALAH!!! It connected beautifully. So, my issue must be with the "keystone" connectors I got from Lowe's. I think I'm going to try and put a RJ45 connector one the one end with the "keystone" connector and see what happens.
August 1, 2009 11:07:25 PM

RJ45 Connector on both ends of cable through attic = connection. I need to look at the "keystone" type connectors and see what I'm doing wrong. I think they are made by Ideal.
August 2, 2009 12:22:41 AM

They are Leviton connectors. I tried re-doing the connector...nothing. I put an RJ45 and they work fine. I hope the HD will take them back, they were $30.
August 2, 2009 1:12:05 AM

They probably are not be designed/certified for Ethernet.
August 2, 2009 1:17:12 AM

GhislainG said:
They probably are not be designed/certified for Ethernet.



THe package says they are, but they're going back tomorrow.