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P7P55D Memroy Problem

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September 18, 2009 1:47:17 AM

Just picked up the following:

ASUS P7P55D LGA 1156 Intel P55 Intel Motherboard

Intel Core i5 750 Lynnfield 2.66GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor Model BX80605I5750

G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBNQ


I put it all together and when I turn it on, the DRAM warning led lights up. The P7P55D manual suggest holding down the MemOK! button for memory compatibility. It runs through it's thing and I end back up at a solid DRAM light on again.

Any idea what the problem is here?

More about : p7p55d memroy problem

a b } Memory
September 18, 2009 4:16:02 PM

I'm not familar with a DRAM warning leds? On the MB or the RAM?

One thing to make sure you've done is to set the BIOS to Optimized Defaults or similar to start with. From there, work on changing settings.

You don't mention if the board POSTs or not.
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September 19, 2009 12:47:07 AM

yars said:
Just picked up the following:

ASUS P7P55D LGA 1156 Intel P55 Intel Motherboard

Intel Core i5 750 Lynnfield 2.66GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor Model BX80605I5750

G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBNQ


I put it all together and when I turn it on, the DRAM warning led lights up. The P7P55D manual suggest holding down the MemOK! button for memory compatibility. It runs through it's thing and I end back up at a solid DRAM light on again.

Any idea what the problem is here?



I have same motherboard with same problem. Core i7-860 2.8 GHZ cpu and 8GB Corsair XMS3 (4 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800). Unable to POST, DRAM LED goes to steady after blinking through the Memory OK routine. I tried 1 stick, 2 sticks, 3 sticks, and 4 sticks of memory, unable to POST. I'm considering RMA of Corsair memory. We have same problem but different memory manufacturers. Any suggestions?
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September 19, 2009 12:49:20 AM

yars said:
Just picked up the following:

ASUS P7P55D LGA 1156 Intel P55 Intel Motherboard

Intel Core i5 750 Lynnfield 2.66GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor Model BX80605I5750

G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBNQ


I put it all together and when I turn it on, the DRAM warning led lights up. The P7P55D manual suggest holding down the MemOK! button for memory compatibility. It runs through it's thing and I end back up at a solid DRAM light on again.

Any idea what the problem is here?



I have same motherboard with same problem. Core i7-860 2.8 GHZ cpu and 8GB Corsair XMS3 (4 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800). Unable to POST, DRAM LED goes to steady after blinking through the Memory OK routine. I tried 1 stick, 2 sticks, 3 sticks, and 4 sticks of memory, unable to POST. I'm considering RMA of Corsair memory. We have same problem but different memory manufacturers. Any suggestions?
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September 19, 2009 12:53:56 AM

Mongox said:
I'm not familar with a DRAM warning leds? On the MB or the RAM?

One thing to make sure you've done is to set the BIOS to Optimized Defaults or similar to start with. From there, work on changing settings.

You don't mention if the board POSTs or not.


DRAM warning light is on the motherboard. Will not POST.
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a b } Memory
September 19, 2009 3:13:35 AM

OK, may have the answer. First of all, there are 6 versions of that board - I chose the "Deluxe" to look up.
http://usa.asus.com/Search.aspx?SearchKey=P7P55D

To install 2 modules, you must put them in the BLUE slots. According the motherboard diagram - oddly in black and white - that's the 2nd and 4th slots counting from the processor. Slots A1 and B1.

Hopefully, that's all that's wrong for yall.
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September 19, 2009 3:17:36 AM

Already tried that with 2 sticks in A1 and B1, no POST. Do you think it's defective memory? I have Corsair, other person (Yars) with same motherboard and same problem has G.Skill.
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a b } Memory
September 19, 2009 3:32:34 AM

From my reading of the RAM vendor list, both of your RAM modules are on the approved list - although oddly many of them list as 6MB and the 3 piece part number for a MB that only allows 2 or 4 sticks...

Try one module at a time, in all slots? Disconnect everything but PSU, cpu fan and ram - normal troubleshooting steps.

It's hard to believe that both of you got two bad RAM modules - there's something else wrong here. Much easier to believe that both of you have a bad motherboard actually.

Can you enter the BIOS? Is there a way to reset BIOS from keyboard without entering it? Try the clear CMOS jumper.

Might be time to ask questions in the ASUS forum here to - and do a forum search for your MB model. And Google search for that model and RAM error led.
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September 19, 2009 3:39:15 AM

Thanks for your help. I tried one module in the A1 slot, but I didn't try each one separately. I'll also clear CMOS using the convenient Reset button on the motherboard. I just read an interesting article about generic defects affecting memory: http://www.anandtech.com/memory/showdoc.aspx?i=3596&p=3

That article addresses multiple mfgrs for 2000 mhz DDR3.

I'll respond back tomorrow afternoon and let you know if anything worked. Thanks.
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September 19, 2009 3:44:33 AM

Thanks for your help. I tried one module in the A1 slot, but I didn't try each one separately. I'll also clear CMOS using the convenient Reset button on the motherboard. I just read an interesting article about generic defects affecting memory: http://www.anandtech.com/memory/showdoc.aspx?i=3596&p=3

That article addresses multiple mfgrs for 2000 mhz DDR3.

I'll respond back tomorrow afternoon and let you know if anything worked. Thanks.

Added info: That link takes you to Page 3 of the article, you need to drop the "&p=3" to get to the first page. Describes defect in IC's used in RAM.
Interesting, could be generic problem here.
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Best solution

September 19, 2009 4:34:04 AM

SUCCESS !!!
I put one memory module in slot A1 and applied power, then cleared CMOS, then it booted with successful POST.
Added second module in slot B1 and successful boot again.
Added third and fourth modules (4 x 2GB) and successfully booted, good POST, entered Setup.
Now the problem is that only 4 GB is recognized, but 8 GB is installed. This can probably be fixed by flashing the BIOS after the OS is installed.
Memory modules are OK, motherboard is OK, frustration has gone away.
To Mongox: Thanks again for your help. Regards, Max_52
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a b } Memory
September 19, 2009 4:56:40 AM

GREAT! Hope to hear some more good news from Yars.

BTW, you can edit your posts with the middle of the icons on the bottom right of your post.

Glad to see a fast solution.
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September 19, 2009 2:57:04 PM

Hi,
I have a different problem on the same MB, hope you can help me as well.
My problem is the CPU, The cpuLED is constantly lightning, the second i push the power button the light comes on. Nothing on the display, no sound nothing... the fan runs but everythings just black. I think the cpu is the first step in the POST so maybe thats why nothing else is happening?

Hope to get some comments.

-Thomas
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September 19, 2009 5:39:26 PM

same problem here i have the p7p55d evo + i7 860 gskill ripjaw cas7. I hit the power and the fans just spin for a while. Sometime i press the onboard power switch just in time and the pc boots. Once it boots everything is OK...BUT its when i shut down and then try to restart the problem is back again. ASUS need to do something ASAP we need a proper bios fix. Ive tried different memory OCZ DDR1333 cas 9 which the manual mentions and still no difference. Its the BIOS !!!!
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September 19, 2009 8:08:16 PM

Interloop said:
Hi,
I have a different problem on the same MB, hope you can help me as well.
My problem is the CPU, The cpuLED is constantly lightning, the second i push the power button the light comes on. Nothing on the display, no sound nothing... the fan runs but everythings just black. I think the cpu is the first step in the POST so maybe thats why nothing else is happening?

Hope to get some comments.

-Thomas

CPU light remaining steady indicates CPU is either defective or not properly installed. Take it out and reinstall it, make sure it is inserted properly. Only fits one way, two little slots on the sides and the gold triangle goes in lower left corner, see Page 2-6 of the motherboard manual.
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September 20, 2009 12:48:53 AM

Mongox said:
GREAT! Hope to hear some more good news from Yars.

BTW, you can edit your posts with the middle of the icons on the bottom right of your post.

Glad to see a fast solution.


Hello Mongox,
8 GB of DDR3 1600 mhz is installed (4 x 2 GB) but BIOS only recognizes 4 MB on ASUS P7P55D-EVO with Core i7-860 2.8 GHZ CPU. No OS installed at this time, no HDD yet. I downloaded and installed updated BIOS Version 0606 from ASUS website using the ASUS BIOS flash utility via flash drive, but still only recognizes 4 MB. Video card is ATI Radeon HD 4679 with 1 GB GDDR3. Good POST. BIOS adjustment for remapping of memory is set as Enabled. I tried to set to Disabled and the usable memory was smaller (3.something GB). All settings of timing are in Auto and have not been changed.
I have posted a question to ASUS.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Max.
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a b } Memory
September 20, 2009 4:37:56 AM

In Manual: "According to Intel spec definition, DDR3-1600 is supported for one DIMM per channel only. ASUS exclusively provides two DDR3-1600 DIMM support for each memory channel."

Looks like they forgot to support it on YOUR board!

I would do this. Take all RAM out and put them one by one into slot A1. Test to make sure it works. Then mark two as a pair, put them in A1 and B1. Test. Put the other pair into A1 and B1. See if one of them might be bad.

I think ASUS is the source for help at this point.
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September 20, 2009 7:35:23 AM

I have the exact same problem as the original poster, and am going to be trying the recommended 1. Power On. 2. Clear CMOS. 3. Power on again thing.

UPDATE: So that removed the DRAM light, but I'm still not posting. However, I am getting a very, very brief CPU_LED light. Is that normal or should I try reseating/repasting the CPU?
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September 20, 2009 1:31:40 PM

justdweezil said:
I have the exact same problem as the original poster, and am going to be trying the recommended 1. Power On. 2. Clear CMOS. 3. Power on again thing.

UPDATE: So that removed the DRAM light, but I'm still not posting. However, I am getting a very, very brief CPU_LED light. Is that normal or should I try reseating/repasting the CPU?


Brief CPU LED is normal. A problem would be indicated if it stays on steady. Do you have a video card installed? The motherboard has a light for the video card, does it blink and then go off? On my board, I get the CPU light (blinks and goes out), memory light (blink - actually stays on for a few seconds, and goes out), then the video card light (blinks and goes out), and it POSTS and goes to a display on monitor. (I don't have a HDD installed yet, so that light remains on steady.)

What about the video?
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September 20, 2009 1:40:19 PM

Mongox said:
In Manual: "According to Intel spec definition, DDR3-1600 is supported for one DIMM per channel only. ASUS exclusively provides two DDR3-1600 DIMM support for each memory channel."

Looks like they forgot to support it on YOUR board!

I would do this. Take all RAM out and put them one by one into slot A1. Test to make sure it works. Then mark two as a pair, put them in A1 and B1. Test. Put the other pair into A1 and B1. See if one of them might be bad.

I think ASUS is the source for help at this point.


Thanks. I read the manual concerning the one DIMM per channel. After I test the four modules, I'll look at the actual frequency of the memory on the BIOS, maybe lowering the frequency would fool the board that the DIMMs are not 1600. Another possibility is to RMA the memory and get 8GB of 1333 MHZ, or keep 2 GB for the next computer build project. ASUS promises a response in 48 hrs., so it will be interesting to see what they say.
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September 20, 2009 3:39:54 PM

Success ! 8GB recognized in BIOS. Two memory modules were not fully inserted. ASUS innovative feature described in a separate loose page included with the motherboard: "Q-DIMM" for "easy" installation, retaining clip only on one end of DIMM socket. Their innovation allows the module to be only partially inserted on the other end. In order to properly insert the module, a lot of force is needed to press down on both ends, and by careful visual examination on the ends without the clips, you can see if all the modules are fully seated. I found this while testing each module in slot A1: first round indicated 3 modules did not work, which wasn't possible since two had previously worked. Required very careful visual examination to detect that insertion wasn't complete on the end without the clip.

Thanks for your help once again.

I also received a response from ASUS: 1. Test each module in slot A1. 2. Confirm from memory manufacturer that the memory is compatible with the motherboard (previously done on the Corsair website) 3. If all modules work and the memory is compatible with the motherboard, then ASUS said the problem is with the CPU. Obviously, they don't consider that their board could be the culprit.

With the BIOS setting of DRAM frequency set in Auto, the initial screen that flashes during POST inidcates the memory is detected at 1333 Mhz. Btw, do you know how to get this first screen to stay on the monitor for more than 2 seconds?

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a b } Memory
September 20, 2009 4:24:31 PM

Great! Again!

LOL, Asus is full of innovations, eh? My poor Gigabyte board has to rely upon normal RAM slots. And doesn't have any LEDs, have to hook up a speaker to get POST error codes. Hasn't come up with mine - completed POST every time no matter how I've abused it (fingers crossed).

I'm with you about the fast clearing of the screen - wish I could see it. For me, it's the screen at the end of POST, that used to show you the full configuration but is now blanked out by all the port info at the bottom. That info used to be about 2 lines long, now it's about 22 lines. I don't think anyone is fast enough with the Pause key, which works, to stop that info from scrolling off the screen.

What apparently works is to actually film the screen with a camera, then upload it and slow down the frame rate to see the full screens. Haven't tried it myself but others say it works.
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September 20, 2009 5:21:34 PM

Max_52 said:
Brief CPU LED is normal. A problem would be indicated if it stays on steady. Do you have a video card installed? The motherboard has a light for the video card, does it blink and then go off? On my board, I get the CPU light (blinks and goes out), memory light (blink - actually stays on for a few seconds, and goes out), then the video card light (blinks and goes out), and it POSTS and goes to a display on monitor. (I don't have a HDD installed yet, so that light remains on steady.)

What about the video?


Every time I've booted I've kept my eyes on the board for any other lights. At this point, absolutely no lights flash for even the shortest moment except for the CPU LED. I do have a video card installed plugged into a working monitor, but still no POST. If the video card were faulty, it should still display the POST/BIOS on the screen, shouldn't it?
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September 20, 2009 6:38:52 PM

justdweezil said:
Every time I've booted I've kept my eyes on the board for any other lights. At this point, absolutely no lights flash for even the shortest moment except for the CPU LED. I do have a video card installed plugged into a working monitor, but still no POST. If the video card were faulty, it should still display the POST/BIOS on the screen, shouldn't it?


If the CPU light blinks, it means the CPU is detected and is OK. If the CPU light stays on, there is a CPU problem. At that point, nothing else will happen. If the CPU light blinks and goes off, the board has succesfully detected a good CPU. The memory light comes next and blinks (stays lit for about 2-3 seconds and goes out), which indicates the memory has been detected and is OK. Then the CPU light blinks real fast and the video light comes on, also for about 1 second, which indicates it has been detected OK.

If you get a blink on the CPU light and nothing on the memory light, something is wrong. Check your power supply connections to the motherboard, should be an 8 pin power connector on top of board and a 24 pin connector on side of board.

Then remove the memory modules and see if you get a steady memory light, which means it can't detect the memory.

Plug a beeper into the bottom right of the motherboard and listen for beeps. Beep codes are on Page 2-42 of the manual.

Nothing will show on the monitor until it passes POST. If you have beeper connected, you will hear one short beep which means everything has been detected, and a few seconds later the monitor will show the ASUS screen. You won't see anything on the monitor if CPU, memory or video have a problem.
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September 20, 2009 7:10:07 PM

Max_52 said:
If the CPU light blinks, it means the CPU is detected and is OK. If the CPU light stays on, there is a CPU problem. At that point, nothing else will happen. If the CPU light blinks and goes off, the board has succesfully detected a good CPU. The memory light comes next and blinks (stays lit for about 2-3 seconds and goes out), which indicates the memory has been detected and is OK. Then the CPU light blinks real fast and the video light comes on, also for about 1 second, which indicates it has been detected OK.

If you get a blink on the CPU light and nothing on the memory light, something is wrong. Check your power supply connections to the motherboard, should be an 8 pin power connector on top of board and a 24 pin connector on side of board.

Then remove the memory modules and see if you get a steady memory light, which means it can't detect the memory.

Plug a beeper into the bottom right of the motherboard and listen for beeps. Beep codes are on Page 2-42 of the manual.

Nothing will show on the monitor until it passes POST. If you have beeper connected, you will hear one short beep which means everything has been detected, and a few seconds later the monitor will show the ASUS screen. You won't see anything on the monitor if CPU, memory or video have a problem.


I must have an issue on top of the OP then, because after clearing the CMOS, I only get the quick CPU LED and nothing else. No quick DRAM LED, no quick VGA LED; no other lights at all. When I boot without any RAM in the board, there is also a quick CPU LED and no DRAM LED. I have the speaker plugged in (have switched orientation several times to make sure it is correct) but I haven't heard a single beep. Does this mean I most likely have a motherboard issue? How else can I verify that it's the motherboard and not RAM or other components?

Thanks for the help, by the way. You owe me nothing, and I appreciate that.
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September 20, 2009 7:34:15 PM

justdweezil said:
I must have an issue on top of the OP then, because after clearing the CMOS, I only get the quick CPU LED and nothing else. No quick DRAM LED, no quick VGA LED; no other lights at all. When I boot without any RAM in the board, there is also a quick CPU LED and no DRAM LED. I have the speaker plugged in (have switched orientation several times to make sure it is correct) but I haven't heard a single beep. Does this mean I most likely have a motherboard issue? How else can I verify that it's the motherboard and not RAM or other components?

Thanks for the help, by the way. You owe me nothing, and I appreciate that.


Definitely motherboard problem. Did you check power supply connections, both the 8 pin and the 24 pin? Take them out and re-insert the power supply connections. Leave out the memory, and the memory LED should remain lit after the CPU light blinks. Also without memory, the beeper should give you one long and two short beeps, repeatedly. Also, remove the video card. So try again, with only the motherboard power supply connectors and the CPU. Remove everything else you might have installed or connected (only leave the beeper). If the power supply is good (hopefully it is new for a new system like this) and connected properly to both connectors, the power and reset buttons on the bottom of the board should be illuminated. If the CPU is good and properly inserted, the CPU light will blink and then the boot process will stop due to lack of memory. You should get a steady memory light and the beeping. Do this with everything removed from the board except the power connectors and the CPU and the beeper. Use the Reset button to start the boot process. A bad connection on the power supply connectors could be your problem, or a bad motherboard. Over the past three days, I just did everything I'm telling you, and my difficulties have been solved (it was improper insertion of the memory modules). Leave your memory out and the memory LED should be steady if the power is connected.
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September 20, 2009 9:16:41 PM

Hello there.

I think i have a similar problem to y'all. Here is my config:
Antec P183
Seasonic M12D - 750W
Asus P7P55D
Intel® Core™ i5 750
Arctic Silver Arctic Silver 5
Noctua NH-U12P SE1366
Corsair TWIN3X 2 x 2 Go DDR3 PC12800 CAS 9
Gigabyte GV-N98TSL-1GI

The Cpu fits correctly in the socket, i've contacted Noctua to get a Mounting kit 2 (compatible with socket 1156). Everything's fine, Thermal paste has been spread (i've already mounted and unmounted several times).

I'v read this entire post which i found very useful and rich of various information.

The quickest way to explain my problem is to redirect you to a video i've made that shows better than a few words.
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xak03c_p7p55d-intel-co...

I've commented this in french, but basically all i say is a presentation of the pieces and the problem.

I might add that the problem is the same whitout memory stick at all. So it's more a cpu or a mobo problem.

I don't have a reset button on my motherboard (it ain't a pro/deluxe version) so i'm not sure how to clear the cmos. It has yet to be tried.

Any help would be very much appreciated.

- Edit -
I've found how to clear the cmos (jumper at the bottom), nothing changed.
I've tried my old PSU, which does NOT have the 8 pins 12V plug (top of the motherboard).
The CPU LED doesn't stop and so does the fans, so i guess it's a cpu problem and the new psu just stopped everything to prevent any damage.
What are the steps now ? I've already unmounted the stuff, i couldn't see any damage. I'm not sure what to do. I'll of course try to unmount and mount it again, see if there is anything wrong with the stuff.
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September 20, 2009 9:54:46 PM

So I thought that it was strange that I wasn't getting any beeps from the speaker, so I found a similar one from a model radio kit and hooked it up instead. I was getting 1 long and 2 short beeps from just CPU, PSU. I plugged in video card and RAM, cleared CMOS... and now it's working from what I can tell. I have no idea what the problem was, although I noticed an extra few "clicks" when I put the memory in this time (there were honestly like 5 clicks).

Thanks a million for the help. I was about to RMA the PSU and motherboard... hope this helps people with a similar problem.
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September 20, 2009 9:58:40 PM

justdweezil said:
So I thought that it was strange that I wasn't getting any beeps from the speaker, so I found a similar one from a model radio kit and hooked it up instead. I was getting 1 long and 2 short beeps from just CPU, PSU. I plugged in video card and RAM, cleared CMOS... and now it's working from what I can tell. I have no idea what the problem was, although I noticed an extra few "clicks" when I put the memory in this time (there were honestly like 5 clicks).

Thanks a million for the help. I was about to RMA the PSU and motherboard... hope this helps people with a similar problem.



Glad to hear it's working.
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September 20, 2009 10:01:45 PM

Mike123456 said:
Hello there.

I think i have a similar problem to y'all. Here is my config:
Antec P183
Seasonic M12D - 750W
Asus P7P55D
Intel® Core™ i5 750
Arctic Silver Arctic Silver 5
Noctua NH-U12P SE1366
Corsair TWIN3X 2 x 2 Go DDR3 PC12800 CAS 9
Gigabyte GV-N98TSL-1GI

The Cpu fits correctly in the socket, i've contacted Noctua to get a Mounting kit 2 (compatible with socket 1156). Everything's fine, Thermal paste has been spread (i've already mounted and unmounted several times).

I'v read this entire post which i found very useful and rich of various information.

The quickest way to explain my problem is to redirect you to a video i've made that shows better than a few words.
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xak03c_p7p55d-intel-co...

I've commented this in french, but basically all i say is a presentation of the pieces and the problem.

I might add that the problem is the same whitout memory stick at all. So it's more a cpu or a mobo problem.

I don't have a reset button on my motherboard (it ain't a pro/deluxe version) so i'm not sure how to clear the cmos. It has yet to be tried.

Any help would be very much appreciated.

- Edit -
I've found how to clear the cmos (jumper at the bottom), nothing changed.
I've tried my old PSU, which does NOT have the 8 pins 12V plug (top of the motherboard).
The CPU LED doesn't stop and so does the fans, so i guess it's a cpu problem and the new psu just stopped everything to prevent any damage.
What are the steps now ? I've already unmounted the stuff, i couldn't see any damage. I'm not sure what to do. I'll of course try to unmount and mount it again, see if there is anything wrong with the stuff.


Without the 8 pin connector, the motherboard will not work.
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September 20, 2009 10:28:55 PM

I've just unmounted the ventirad, the cpu, checked the processor, checked the socket, remounted the cpu, remounted the ventirad, using the new PSU (with the 8 pin connector), and i still have the issue (cpu led, quick stop, retry after 5seconds).

Do i have to send my cpu back ?
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a b } Memory
September 20, 2009 11:06:28 PM

Max, you've fallen in here like I did. After coming to get some help, I ended up helping others with problems I was more familar with. That's the key to how these boards work.

Regarding the 8-pin connector - if it has a 4-pin CPU connector, that will always work from what I understand. But yes, with no CPU connector, will not work.

This thread shows the advantage to including the motherboard model or RAM model in the thread title - gets others with similar problems involved. I do wonder if Yars ever solved his problems!
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September 21, 2009 1:18:25 AM

Hi All, I'm having a similar problem.

I have:
P7P55D EVO
G.SKILL Trident 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2000
i5 - 750 (stock cooler)
Antec EarthWatts 650
XFX HD-487A-ZWFC Radeon HD 4870

I am not getting the system to post. Here are the steps I've taken:
Removed everything from the case.
Plugged in PSU, CPU (w/ cooler), 1 DIM in A1, 4870 in top PCI-E 2.0 slot
Using a screwdriver, I power on the system

Results:
CPU led for 1 second, RAM led for 2-3 seconds, CPU led again really fast and then in powers down. The VGA led never comes on and I am getting no signal to the monitor (obviously).

I had a consistent RAM led because I had my DIM in the wrong slot. Once I put it in A1, I started getting the result above. I have also tried using the reset button on the mobo, but I'm not seeing any results...

Suggestions? Thanks!
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September 21, 2009 9:53:32 AM

Mike123456 said:
I've just unmounted the ventirad, the cpu, checked the processor, checked the socket, remounted the cpu, remounted the ventirad, using the new PSU (with the 8 pin connector), and i still have the issue (cpu led, quick stop, retry after 5seconds).

Do i have to send my cpu back ?


If the CPU LED remains illuminated, there is a problem with either the CPU or the motherboard.
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September 21, 2009 10:02:30 AM

joegeis said:
Hi All, I'm having a similar problem.

I have:
P7P55D EVO
G.SKILL Trident 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2000
i5 - 750 (stock cooler)
Antec EarthWatts 650
XFX HD-487A-ZWFC Radeon HD 4870

I am not getting the system to post. Here are the steps I've taken:
Removed everything from the case.
Plugged in PSU, CPU (w/ cooler), 1 DIM in A1, 4870 in top PCI-E 2.0 slot
Using a screwdriver, I power on the system

Results:
CPU led for 1 second, RAM led for 2-3 seconds, CPU led again really fast and then in powers down. The VGA led never comes on and I am getting no signal to the monitor (obviously).

I had a consistent RAM led because I had my DIM in the wrong slot. Once I put it in A1, I started getting the result above. I have also tried using the reset button on the mobo, but I'm not seeing any results...

Suggestions? Thanks!


The LED for the video card should either blink (good) or stay illuminated (bad). Remove the video card and re-boot. From your description, the CPU and memory is being detected and both are good. Without the video card, the video LED should come on and stay on. If you have a beeper connected, you should get the beep code for failed video card. If the video LED comes on and stays on, then power off the system, re-insert the video card, make sure your monitor is turned on, and try again. If the video LED doesn't illuminate without a video card, and you don't get the beep code for failed video card, then it appears the motherboard isn't working properly.
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September 21, 2009 10:11:00 AM

Mongox said:
Max, you've fallen in here like I did. After coming to get some help, I ended up helping others with problems I was more familar with. That's the key to how these boards work.

Regarding the 8-pin connector - if it has a 4-pin CPU connector, that will always work from what I understand. But yes, with no CPU connector, will not work.

This thread shows the advantage to including the motherboard model or RAM model in the thread title - gets others with similar problems involved. I do wonder if Yars ever solved his problems!


Mongox, yes, you're correct, it's easy to keep coming back, especially when others are going through the same frustration that I went through.

Yes, a four pin connector is supposed to do the same as an eight pin.

My next step in this project is to purchase a hard drive. I was considering a Western Digital 1 TB Caviar Black as a single drive. After reading the comments on Newegg, many of these have had failures. Maybe two new hard drives in a RAID 1 (redundant) array is a better solution. I want to use this new computer as my primary computer for as many years as possible, hopefully without problems, and without worrying about backing up stored files. What's your opinion?
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a b } Memory
September 21, 2009 11:59:18 AM

Remember, very very few who have the expected good results with the product they purchase ever even return to the site, much less leave comments of praise. Whereas those who have to deal with getting the RMA, then checking its status, checking for credit or ordering a replacement product - they're at the site a lot and more likely to leave a negative comment.

I bought a WD 1TB Caviar Black to go with my new re-build and love it. Got it at BestBuy for $99 - really less since I had a few different points and gift cards to use up. I love it and am very happy with my choice. I've read a lot about it lately, before and after my purchase, and I'd buy another one tomorrow.

I'm using as my system/boot drive as C: with a 60GB partition - it holds my Data and Programs, then for my Master folder, Audio files and Movies I keep in storage as D: with the balance of 940GB. (I'm using the hd mfgrs imaginary GB numbers for this) The high speed of this drive compared to my IDE drives make it irresistable for use as the primary drive.

I've got a mess of IDE drives ranging from 40GB to 200GB, along with 2 external USB/IDE drives - 250 and 500. I tend to swap them out when I want to back up stuff for long-term archive, then put back in the drawer. I use a Seagate 500GB external as my active backup drive - and I do it the old-fashioned way - I copy entire folders to the backup drive, then delete the previous copy at a later time. Basically, I use the extra drives in the same way I learned to use (or teach my customers to use) tape drives, zip drives and originally floppy drives to back up data.

I learned to quit messing with any type of backup storage many years ago for my own system. I never put the side cover or faceplate on my computer so it's easy to slip in a drive for backup. And with 10 IDE drives laying around, it's a good use for them! This isn't a good solution for a normal user. In addition, my files I want to back up are very well organized. All my active data, about 20GBs, is in a folder called \Data - nothing in Docs and Settings except other user accounts. And all but one of the folders in \Data can be copied without running into "in use" errors - for that folder I have another user I switch to. So it's easy and trouble-free for me to backup in this fashion. I only use the old drives for true archives - in case my whole computer is stolen. They can also be put in a fire safe for added protection - though I'm guilty of rarely doing this.

I've got a nice pair of WD 100GB drives I've thought of setting up as a RAID pair. Here's why I haven't done so with new system. I'd be giving up a lot of speed by keeping my data on slower drives. I also use Win Explorer constantly to browse thru my Data and open folders to directly load files from it rather than opening from an application - my primary "real" computer use is with Excel and Word. So I'd have to go to another drive letter rather than C:. Not a big deal, but we get used to things.

There are programs which will do this for you automatically. It's easy to set up a process that would update my "backup" files on another drive to match my current files. I don't use these, but they give almost as good a real-time backup as RAID. Of course, now we have online providers offering the same service on remote servers.

In addition, RAID seems to be tricky on its own. One problem exists if one of your drives goes down - your data is still there, but you're gonna HAVE to fix the drive to keep data safe. In addition, there are problems with replacing the bad drive and matching it. Often, the solution is just to replace both drives if one goes bad - can get expensive.

Also, it's been over ten years, actually since about 96, since I've personally had a drive failure. I know, knock on wood, but drives today are far more reliable. And most drive failures are preceeded by clues that an aware user will notice - mainly sound.

Well... enough info?

I highly recommend WD's 1TB Caviar Black!
(oh, it's really Mongo - the x is needed for many sites where mongo is already taken!)
=================

I should mention - if cost was no concern, I'd likely get a nice pair of WD Velociraptor 320GB drives and set them as a RAID array and forget about all I said above!
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September 21, 2009 7:42:04 PM


@joegeis

I had some similar problems using a P7P55D motherboard. It was working fine at first but then, for an unknown reason, just stopped booting. The fans were spinning, leds blinking one after another (VGA / CPU / RAM) continously, but no Beep, no display, no sound, nothing.

But, I found out something a bit strange... I was able to boot the computer using the MemOK! button on the motherboard... So I was able to boot the PC and perform a BIOS update.

On Asus website, the bios update states that it fixes system stability.

You should give it a try, it worked for me
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September 22, 2009 1:02:44 AM

Mongox said:
Remember, very very few who have the expected good results with the product they purchase ever even return to the site, much less leave comments of praise. Whereas those who have to deal with getting the RMA, then checking its status, checking for credit or ordering a replacement product - they're at the site a lot and more likely to leave a negative comment.

I bought a WD 1TB Caviar Black to go with my new re-build and love it. Got it at BestBuy for $99 - really less since I had a few different points and gift cards to use up. I love it and am very happy with my choice. I've read a lot about it lately, before and after my purchase, and I'd buy another one tomorrow.

I'm using as my system/boot drive as C: with a 60GB partition - it holds my Data and Programs, then for my Master folder, Audio files and Movies I keep in storage as D: with the balance of 940GB. (I'm using the hd mfgrs imaginary GB numbers for this) The high speed of this drive compared to my IDE drives make it irresistable for use as the primary drive.

I've got a mess of IDE drives ranging from 40GB to 200GB, along with 2 external USB/IDE drives - 250 and 500. I tend to swap them out when I want to back up stuff for long-term archive, then put back in the drawer. I use a Seagate 500GB external as my active backup drive - and I do it the old-fashioned way - I copy entire folders to the backup drive, then delete the previous copy at a later time. Basically, I use the extra drives in the same way I learned to use (or teach my customers to use) tape drives, zip drives and originally floppy drives to back up data.

I learned to quit messing with any type of backup storage many years ago for my own system. I never put the side cover or faceplate on my computer so it's easy to slip in a drive for backup. And with 10 IDE drives laying around, it's a good use for them! This isn't a good solution for a normal user. In addition, my files I want to back up are very well organized. All my active data, about 20GBs, is in a folder called \Data - nothing in Docs and Settings except other user accounts. And all but one of the folders in \Data can be copied without running into "in use" errors - for that folder I have another user I switch to. So it's easy and trouble-free for me to backup in this fashion. I only use the old drives for true archives - in case my whole computer is stolen. They can also be put in a fire safe for added protection - though I'm guilty of rarely doing this.

I've got a nice pair of WD 100GB drives I've thought of setting up as a RAID pair. Here's why I haven't done so with new system. I'd be giving up a lot of speed by keeping my data on slower drives. I also use Win Explorer constantly to browse thru my Data and open folders to directly load files from it rather than opening from an application - my primary "real" computer use is with Excel and Word. So I'd have to go to another drive letter rather than C:. Not a big deal, but we get used to things.

There are programs which will do this for you automatically. It's easy to set up a process that would update my "backup" files on another drive to match my current files. I don't use these, but they give almost as good a real-time backup as RAID. Of course, now we have online providers offering the same service on remote servers.

In addition, RAID seems to be tricky on its own. One problem exists if one of your drives goes down - your data is still there, but you're gonna HAVE to fix the drive to keep data safe. In addition, there are problems with replacing the bad drive and matching it. Often, the solution is just to replace both drives if one goes bad - can get expensive.

Also, it's been over ten years, actually since about 96, since I've personally had a drive failure. I know, knock on wood, but drives today are far more reliable. And most drive failures are preceeded by clues that an aware user will notice - mainly sound.

Well... enough info?

I highly recommend WD's 1TB Caviar Black!
(oh, it's really Mongo - the x is needed for many sites where mongo is already taken!)
=================

I should mention - if cost was no concern, I'd likely get a nice pair of WD Velociraptor 320GB drives and set them as a RAID array and forget about all I said above!


Mongo,
Thanks for the advice. I thought that using drives in a RAID array would slow down the process, and now you have confirmed that concept. As far as failure of one drive in a RAID array, yes the drive would need to be replaced in order to get the array to properly work again. I've never had a hard drive failure on any computer, going back to the early purchases (somewhat custom) from Micron and then followed by the 5 computers I have built over the span of the last 6 years (not counting the present project), 4 of which are in active use in our house. On all of my builds, I have used Western Digital. I did get one at Best Buy some years ago, then mostly purchased from Newegg. Within the past year, a Micro Center store has opened nearby in Paterson, NJ, with a huge selection and prices that are very competitive. Micro Center is like the Home Depot of computers, and there is no worry about packages being tossed around by the UPS people (some Newegg shipments look like they were handled very rough).
I have considered getting an external drive and using it for backup only. Now I will do that. My stored files continuously increase, since I send files to my home email from work so I can work on them and send back. I could go through the Citrix connection to the company network, but it's easier to just use individual files (mostly Word and Excel), and then they pile up in My Documents. (If I routinely connected to the company network through Citrix, I would tend to work 20 hrs. a day which I don't want to do --- 12 hrs. in the office is enough.)
The majority of the files I need to back up are photos and some Word files, and an external hard drive sounds like an ideal and safe way of doing that.
So I will purchase the WD Carviar 1TB at Micro Center $105 and complete this project.
Thanks and regards, Max
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September 29, 2009 8:50:52 AM

marvin966 said:
@joegeis

I had some similar problems using a P7P55D motherboard. It was working fine at first but then, for an unknown reason, just stopped booting. The fans were spinning, leds blinking one after another (VGA / CPU / RAM) continously, but no Beep, no display, no sound, nothing.

But, I found out something a bit strange... I was able to boot the computer using the MemOK! button on the motherboard... So I was able to boot the PC and perform a BIOS update.

On Asus website, the bios update states that it fixes system stability.

You should give it a try, it worked for me



Could yopu provide the website? I am unable to find it in ASUS website. When I look under Downloads it is empty
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a b } Memory
September 29, 2009 9:16:43 AM

frankgl,
The BIOS update mentioned above was particular to the Asus P7P55D EVO model and wouldn't apply if you have a different P7P55D version. I did check the Asus site and found two BIOS updates listed there for the EVO. I'm not including the link because you need to tell what model exactly that you have.

BIOS updating is very useful if you do it properly but can totally ruin a system if you don't. Most here recommend only updating from DOS or directly from a BIOS utility and not using a utility that runs within Windows.

Flashing the wrong BIOS in your system can turn it into useless junk.

If you post your exact model and revision (if any) and the BIOS version you're using now, someone here will help to check to see if there's an update.
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September 29, 2009 9:34:09 AM

Thanks for the reply.

I have ordered the following components:

Intel Core i5 750 (2,66 Ghz)
ASUS P55P7D Pro

I am considering these RAM:
Corsair XMS3 2 x 2 GB (4 GB) / DDR3 SDRAM / PC3-12800CL9 / 1600 MHz
Model nr. CMX4GX3M2A1600C9

Will they fit? Or should I choose 1333 Mhz RAM instead to avoid any issues?

They are not on ASUS' QVL list. And I have read in some places that it is recommended to go with ASUS QVL list. But, another thing is, ASUS' QVL list does not mention any 8 Gb.
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a b } Memory
September 29, 2009 10:12:50 AM

I don't believe you'll have any issues with 1600 RAM. Whether they are really worth extra money over 1333 is up to debate - but nothing wrong with them.

Any 1600 DDR3 with no more than 1.65V is compatible with that computer. The QVL lists are usually made when the motherboard is released and taken from RAM modules the factory happens to have on hand. It's common to see RAM part numbers for dual-channel with triple-channel boards, old models, etc..

What is key in buying RAM is the CL or latency. Lower CL is faster, even within one step of speed. That is, most would agree, a 1333 @ 7 is faster than a 1600 @ 8 and certainly faster than 1600 @9.

Your choice has a CL=9 and wouldn't be considered 'fast' because of that. It does seem to have a nice price and rebate, but don't buy on price alone when looking at RAM that should last you 3 years.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Look at this page, you'll see Corsair 1600 RAM that includes all at 1.65V
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=E...

I've been quite happy with my G.Skill RAM and this model jumped out at me when looking at choices for you. It's 1600, has a very low CL=7 and a good price.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Back to your original question, I did find two BIOS updates listed for the ASUS P55P7D Pro. I don't know if either of them are needed on your system. For one thing, you may already have the newest BIOS. If it works now, don't mess with it!

http://usa.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=j02KziJq95KbCQNm
Choose "Download" and then put in an operating system - Win7 and XP will both give the two BIOS choices. I recommend downloading EVERYTHING you find at a support page, but only install what you need. Also save the full webpages for later use if they aren't there later.

Make a folder called \Master and a subfolder \Master\AsusP55P7DPro and keep everything there. And use the \Master folder for anything you download and plan on installing.
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September 29, 2009 11:48:30 AM

How would you consider these two OCZ:

(site is in Danish, but you should be able to get the basic info)

(Has XMP, which I am not sure what is)

(The voltage seems a bit high on this last one, but it is on the QVL)

Alternative is this Corsair:
This last one is CL9 (slower), but it is on the QVL as well. Only thing is that according to ASUS it is not on their QVL list for RAM that is supported in all 4 slots - only 2 (sounds a bit odd to me, if it works in two slots - then why not all 4).

As you may see from my posts, Id like to get as close as possible to the QVL.

Thank you again for your quick reply.
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a b } Memory
September 29, 2009 10:44:32 PM

For an i5, do not choose any RAM with a Forsyningsspænding greater than 1.65V. A Hukommelsesfrekvens of 1333 is fine. Wheee, I speak Danish now!

So all 3 choices are over 1.65V and I can't recommend them. This points out the problems with the QVL. I do not find the QVL lists very useful in choosing RAM modules because they often have errors - such as the one you mention. I think you'll find a warning in your motherboard manual about not using RAM over 1.65V - then the QVL lists many at 1.7V and above.

XMS is an addition to the SPD that allows your motherboard, if so equipped, to read the RAM module and plug in overclocked settings that are pre-defined. It may or may not be useful to you, check your MB to see if it's used. It is of limited real use.

I Søg'd for 1333 RAM and found these results.
http://old.edbpriser.dk/Products/Listproducts.asp?ID=37...

However, I think that MANY of the specs listed for the modules are WRONG. Compare these specs from NewEgg and EDB Priser for OCZ Gold 1333 part# OCZ3G13334GK

NEWEGG: OCZ Gold 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1066 (PC3 8500) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model OCZ3G10664GK - Retail * Cas Latency: 7 * Voltage: 1.5V – 1.6V

Produkt: OCZ Gold Dual Channel Kit 2 x 2 GB (4 GB) / DUAL RAM / DDR3 SDRAM / PC3-10666CL9 / 1333 MHz / ? Bit? ns CAS Latency (rotering): CL9 Forsyningsspænding: 1.7 V Produkt kode: OCZ3G13334GK

---------- I recommend shopping at NewEgg first, then looking for that model at your Danish site.


Godt hell og jeg håper at du kan lese Nordmann også ! Det er kunner som jeg kunne finne.
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September 30, 2009 11:16:10 AM

Thanks Mongox,


I have cancelled the order for the RAM until I find some that suits better.
Unfortunately, G-skill RAm seem to be quite rare here in Denmark.

I will look some more, but in the end I may decide for some standard Kingston CL9 or Corsair CL9.

I will return as I find our more.
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a b } Memory
September 30, 2009 2:51:05 PM

I would contact EDB Priser and see if the specs for the OCZ Gold is actually 1.5V - 1.6V rather than their listed 1.7V. If so, would seem to be a good choice.
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October 6, 2009 7:16:22 PM

So, Ive finally reached a conclusion, almost.

It is down to these two options:

http://old.edbpriser.dk/Products/Listprices.asp?ID=4741...

http://old.edbpriser.dk/Products/Listprices.asp?ID=6300...

Both are Corsair 1333 Mhz, 1,6 volt.

The question is: What is the better option? 1x4 Gb or 2x2 Gb?
My version of Windows 7 takes up to 16Gb RAM, and I would like to push it up there within the next 8 months ( cant afford it right now). The idea is to buy more RAM (ie. 1x4 Gb) later on. So that in the end I would have 4x4 Gb RAM.

To my knowledge that should not be a problem if I stick to the same Corsair RAM. Or am I mistaken?

So basically: What would you choose? 2x2 Gb or 1x4 Gb?
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October 19, 2009 1:04:53 PM

Just thought I would end my part in this thread:

Ended up with the following:

Intel Core I5 750
Asus P7P55D pro
Corsair 1333 Mhs Cl9
Corsair 850 watt (for later SLI)
Antec P183
Cooler Master Hyper TX 3 CPU Cooler
Samsung Spinpoint 250Gb

Put it all together last night and it runs smoothly and makes LOTRO look like a dream come true :-)
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October 20, 2009 7:36:47 PM

Mike123456 said:
Hello there.

I think i have a similar problem to y'all. Here is my config:
Antec P183
Seasonic M12D - 750W
Asus P7P55D
Intel® Core™ i5 750
Arctic Silver Arctic Silver 5
Noctua NH-U12P SE1366
Corsair TWIN3X 2 x 2 Go DDR3 PC12800 CAS 9
Gigabyte GV-N98TSL-1GI

The Cpu fits correctly in the socket, i've contacted Noctua to get a Mounting kit 2 (compatible with socket 1156). Everything's fine, Thermal paste has been spread (i've already mounted and unmounted several times).

I'v read this entire post which i found very useful and rich of various information.

The quickest way to explain my problem is to redirect you to a video i've made that shows better than a few words.
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xak03c_p7p55d-intel-co...

I've commented this in french, but basically all i say is a presentation of the pieces and the problem.

I might add that the problem is the same whitout memory stick at all. So it's more a cpu or a mobo problem.

I don't have a reset button on my motherboard (it ain't a pro/deluxe version) so i'm not sure how to clear the cmos. It has yet to be tried.

Any help would be very much appreciated.

- Edit -
I've found how to clear the cmos (jumper at the bottom), nothing changed.
I've tried my old PSU, which does NOT have the 8 pins 12V plug (top of the motherboard).
The CPU LED doesn't stop and so does the fans, so i guess it's a cpu problem and the new psu just stopped everything to prevent any damage.
What are the steps now ? I've already unmounted the stuff, i couldn't see any damage. I'm not sure what to do. I'll of course try to unmount and mount it again, see if there is anything wrong with the stuff.

Hello!

I'm back, with the solution of my problem. According to the online store where i bought all this stuff, there is an incompatibility between this power supplier and the motherboad.
Seasonic M12D-750 doesn't like Asus P7P55D.
That's a shame because i really wanted this PU. They suggested a Thermaltake Toughpower 850W and i said ok. I'm now waiting for my stuff to come back home.

That's it, see y'all!
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!