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Completed Revised Custom LCS

Hello all after some issues with my previous rig I revamped it I want to give a special thanks to ortoklaz, Rubix, and shadow for their help. Without it this would be a completely different build. I had many headaches and setbacks during the rebuild :cry: I have learned a lot from the Toms experts!! I am extremely happy with the results. :bounce: (Performance, Temps, Looks) :D

System Specs
AMD 1090t
Asus Crosshair iv Formula (Such a sexy mobo)
8gb G Skill Ripjaws DDR3 1600
2X XFX 5870 w/ EK Waterblocks
EK 250 Advanced Res.
Koolance CPU-360
1/2" X 3/4" Fesser Red UV Tubing
MCP655
PA120.3
XSPC 240
Corsair HX1000
Corsair 800D
Fillport

Temps

CPU
Idle-30c
Load- 50c @ 4.2 Ghz 1.47v

GPU
Idle- 30c
Load- 42c
http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/7729/dsc03402h.th.jpg

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/4581/dsc03409s.th.jpg

http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/2841/dsc03411k.th.jpg
56 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about completed revised custom
  1. Best answer
    I want to congratulate you on a very nice build..good choice of mobo+color scheme.
    The temps. look very good are this with the door open? How you like this RES,any noise?
    (you don't usually see inline and bay res in the same loop,but hey.. whatever works for you)
    I tell you if you had nickelbackplates on this cards it would look sick

    Edit; I would keep your MCP655 just in case ;)
    new DD Res coming soon;
    http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/9922/dd2jl.jpg

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us
    http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/9313/dd1p.jpg

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us
  2. ortoklaz said:
    I want to congratulate you on a very nice build..good choice of mobo+color scheme.
    The temps. look very good are this with the door open? How you like this RES,any noise?
    (you don't usually see inline and bay res in the same loop,but hey.. whatever works for you)
    I tell you if you had nickelbackplates on this cards it would look sick

    Edit; I would keep your MCP655 just in case ;)
    new DD Res coming soon;
    http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/9922/dd2jl.jpg

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us
    http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/9313/dd1p.jpg

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us


    Thanks it is all because of your extensive help!!! No doubt! To be honest I hate the bay res, but it's an easy option to place the 655. If I could find a option where i could place 1 or 2 655s in the bay area without the res I would. I was looking at a dual d5 mod top during the rebuild, but its too big . temps are with the case closed. Maybe I will add the back plates if I end up with a solution to the pump. I just signed up on the notify me on Danger den!! :D I want one, even if I have to remove the in line EK.. ;) I am also waiting for some led's to come in for my sunbeam fan controller (changing the led from the blue to red) , by the way where do you live??
  3. Contrary to popular belief that inline res is better I would say no, they do serve same purpose,it's all about space and esthetic's and seriously considering buying DD D5 for my MCP 655 if the price is right .The cheapest solution for you would be placing 240 sideways ,that would give you room for the pump but then you may end up buying top for it or you could get DDC pump/top (not cheap )
    P.S I live in the home state of SedewinderComp. two hours south of windy city

    Edit; forgot to ask ..what fans you have ..specs.?
  4. Very clean...I like the look. Nice work...how are you enjoying it? I'd assume pretty well if you were proud enough to drop by and post some pics.
  5. ortoklaz said:
    Contrary to popular belief that inline res is better I would say no, they do serve same purpose,it's all about space and esthetic's and seriously considering buying DD D5 for my MCP 655 if the price is right .The cheapest solution for you would be placing 240 sideways ,that would give you room for the pump but then you may end up buying top for it or you could get DDC pump/top (not cheap )
    P.S I live in the home state of SedewinderComp. two hours south of windy city

    Edit; forgot to ask ..what fans you have ..specs.?

    I am going to measure to see if I have room for the dual top for 2 mcp655s, would help give me better flowrate havine the 2 in series. if not then go with the danger den res. I am using slipstream fans. Hey do you want a scythe kazemaster fan controller? I have no need for the one I have and would to offer to you as a thank you if you want it.
  6. If you have the cash and space for dual 655's, I'd say go for it.
  7. @I do appreciated and You don't have to thank me,i am glad to be of assistance. I enjoy helping others,watercooling is cool hobby and this is part of it,any way i have one in my closet lol ,high wattage controller are the best. Own Lamptron FC3.Flip that white fan it should improve your temps
    P.S I thought you only have one 655
  8. rubix_1011 said:
    If you have the cash and space for dual 655's, I'd say go for it.


    Space is the question. I only thought of it after i got everything together and noticed that the flow rate dropped dramatically. However temps are not a issue as a 2.5 hr prime test topped at 50c @4.2Ghz with 1.49v. Just measured even if I flip the 240 on the side I will not have the room for the dual top in series. Don't have the 167mm I will get the danger den res and use the other ek for a different build. This build would not have been possible without your guidance, so thanks!!
  9. ortoklaz said:
    @I do appreciated and You don't have to thank me,i am glad to be of assistance. I enjoy helping others,watercooling is cool hobby and this is part of it,any way i have one in my closet lol ,high wattage controller are the best. Own Lamptron FC3.Flip that white fan it should improve your temps
    P.S I thought you only have one 655


    I have one 655 would have picked up one more, but I don't have the room for it so Danger den here I come!! I already flipped the 140 on the back to pull air in. Thanks.
  10. Quote:
    I only thought of it after i got everything together and noticed that the flow rate dropped dramatically


    Your flow dropped dramatically? Explain...

    What was the config before the flow issue, and then after?
  11. rubix_1011 said:
    Quote:
    I only thought of it after i got everything together and noticed that the flow rate dropped dramatically


    Your flow dropped dramatically? Explain...

    What was the config before the flow issue, and then after?


    Before it was cpu and 120.3... added 2 gpu and 240 to loop. I used to see the water moving rapidly in the res. Now with 2 gpus and 240 i can barely see it moving. I do understand I added more head to the loop so the flo rate will drop, but my temps are ok under load...
  12. The reason you don't see water moving is switching from 1200lph pump to 750lph pump+extra res
  13. Yeah, you'll see some slow-down by adding 2 blocks and another rad. If your temps are good, you are probably fine.

    Depending on the amount of difference, you can always pull the loop and revert to the original components (jumpering the PSU so you aren't running the system) and see if it goes back to the higher flow. Then, you could add the GPU blocks and the rad 1 by 1 to see where the drop-off is the highest. Maybe you have a partial blockage...maybe not.

    Did you flush the radiator before installing? I see those are full cover blocks, they have been known to drop rates more than universal blocks...and that X-Fire bridge connector tube looks rather skinny.
  14. I am going to track temps as long as my temps are good I'm not going to worry. You guys are great!!
  15. @rubix
    "I see those are full cover blocks, they have been known to drop rates more than universal blocks.."No they not;

    http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/508/vgarestriction.png

    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=262937


    Uploaded with ImageShack.us
  16. I stand corrected; maybe it's just common theory that this is the case.

    ...the universal block is a fair amount lower in flow than the full cover blocks...not at all what I expected. Very odd, indeed...I'd always assumed universal blocks were less restrictive than full-cover.
  17. ortoklaz said:
    The reason you don't see water moving is switching from 1200lph pump to 750lph pump+extra res

    I always had the mcp655. I had a chat with Gary & John (sidewinder) about doing 2 655's in series with tops and they confirmed the tops (EK and Bitspower) wont fit in a dual bay space, so I am going with the Danger Dem Res and pulling the EK res. Danger Den res suits my needs perfectly, plus matches my color scheme perfectly, and may improve the flo rate by taking one extra res. Just ordered 2 back plates for gpu. May change the vid connector to tubing at that time also.... or flip it over as the bottom of the vid connector is bigger, maybe it will give a pressure boost going from big to small, instead of smaller opening to big
  18. Once you switch back to 655 you should see the difference ,XSPC res/pump combo is rated
    at 750 lph, changing connector won't make noticeable difference just like flow rate ...you would have to past like 2GPM mark to see temp. improvements .What kind of backplates you ordered ,i don't think sidewinder have them do they?
    P.S. Gary is super nice guy,old school , they provide honest to goodness service,i get most of my stuff from them
  19. ortoklaz said:
    Once you switch back to 655 you should see the difference ,XSPC res/pump combo is rated
    at 750 lph, changing connector won't make noticeable difference just like flow rate ...you would have to past like 2GPM mark to see temp. improvements .What kind of backplates you ordered ,i don't think sidewinder have them do they?
    P.S. Gary is super nice guy,old school , they provide honest to goodness service,i get most of my stuff from them

    I agree he has been very good to me I buy almost almost everything from him too. Ordered the ek nickel and 12 red leds for my fan controller to solder on fan controller from frozen CPU as sidewinder didn't have it. Been running prime and I am happy with temps seem to be steady at 50-52 on full load
  20. The think with mounting your rad like you did is that there is this mesh on top which obstructs the air flow,so next time you take that bad boy out you may want to try something like this;
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8wUpbwcLz8
    P.S. slipstream fans are not the best for rad's,I'm not implying anything,it's just something that may improve your temps in the future
  21. ortoklaz said:
    The think with mounting your rad like you did is that there is this mesh on top which obstructs the air flow,so next time you take that bad boy out you may want to try something like this;
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8wUpbwcLz8
    P.S. slipstream fans are not the best for rad's,I'm not implying anything,it's just something that may improve your temps in the future

    I will cut that mesh out next time I strip the loop down, thanks suggestions on fans please??? also when I do change fans stay with my shrouds (fessers) or go with push/ pull???
  22. shroud/pull but that mesh got to go in my opinion
    http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/scge120mmsic2.html

    there is also video on 240 and how to do it
  23. ortoklaz said:


    there is also video on 240 and how to do it


    Got it on the fans. How to do what on the 240...This is how I did mine

    http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/1916/dsc03330s.th.jpg


    http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/7702/dsc03333l.th.jpg
  24. ortoklaz said:


    Ran furmark stability last night on GPUs for 2 hours, started at 30c (idle) didn't go above 43c I am very pleased with temps. When I had GPU on air cooler it was 48c idle and 78c on load for an hour!! Thanks so much!!
  25. So...I'll take that as a few words of success?
  26. rubix_1011 said:
    So...I'll take that as a few words of success?


    I am happy with my temps. I am going to make a few changes in the coming weeks like add different fans, and change the res. Temps are a whole lot better better than before 48c max. Like I mentioned before it's thanks to you and ortoklaz for extensive help you have given me!
  27. Don't mention,water cooling is very rewarding if you do it right and as you can see it's next step from AIR (still can't believe people will argue air/lc ) ,can't wait to see the final pics ,backplates will make huge visual difference ,good job so far
    P.S that cat likes that worm laptop ;)

    Edit; are you going nickel or black?
    there is a video on how to paint GT fans if you decide to do so
    what type of thermal paste are using?
  28. ortoklaz said:
    Don't mention,water cooling is very rewarding if you do it right and as you can see it's next step from AIR (still can't believe people will argue air/lc ) ,can't wait to see the final pics ,backplates will make huge visual difference ,good job so far
    P.S that cat likes that worm laptop ;)

    Edit; are you going nickel or black?
    there is a video on how to paint GT fans if you decide to do so
    what type of thermal paste are using?


    That's my cat.. Went with the nickel back plates to match the nickel on the water blocks. Thermal paste I used as5 on cpu and gpu. I was thinking of painting the white fans red before nan the top rad fans red. probably going to get the fans you suggested after returning the slipstreams I will only have to pay $25 so for the performance change I will do it.
  29. AS5(Electrical Conductive) have 200 hours curring time so your temps should improve
    http://skinneelabs.com/tim2010part1.html?page=4
    GT's are the king of the hill for RAD's and very quite you can even pic up 1450RPM for your RAD's but if you have fan controller 1800 would be ok,I can't find the video right now..just give me some time
  30. ortoklaz said:
    AS5(Electrical Conductive) have 200 hours curring time so your temps should improve
    http://skinneelabs.com/tim2010part1.html?page=4
    GT's are the king of the hill for RAD's and very quite you can even pic up 1450RPM for your RAD's but if you have fan controller 1800 would be ok,I can't find the video right now..just give me some time

    Don't worry about video, I am a pretty mechanical person I will figure it out. Getting the gt from Gary so mayye a week or so will have posted
  31. miwanuma said:
    Don't worry about video, I am a pretty mechanical person I will figure it out. Getting the gt from Gary so mayye a week or so will have posted


    The thing with painting fans can be tricky ,that's why i never painted my ugly Noctuas and they look a lot worst then GT's
    Here is the thread i start it (in progress);
    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=263690
    any how if you decide to go with some different fans look in to 7~9 blade fans or ;
    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=261778&page=19
  32. ortoklaz said:
    The thing with painting fans can be tricky ,that's why i never painted my ugly Noctuas and they look a lot worst then GT's
    Here is the thread i start it (in progress);
    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=263690
    any how if you decide to go with some different fans look in to 7~9 blade fans or ;
    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=261778&page=19

    ok got it will NOT paint the GT however I will be painting the NZXT 140's
  33. i know what's on your mind...to much red will make it loud tho :sol:
  34. ortoklaz said:
    i know what's on your mind...to much red will make it loud tho :sol:

    So you think the fans being red will be too much? Leave them white?
  35. miwanuma said:
    So you think the fans being red will be too much? Leave them white?


    it's your rig...to much of anything is always bad :na:
  36. ortoklaz said:
    it's your rig...to much of anything is always bad :na:


    LMAO my wife said the same thing....She thinks I should leave the fans white..."It gives some balance" in her words
  37. ortoklaz said:
    it's your rig...to much of anything is always bad :na:


    So a very interesting thing happened to me today, I was installing the back plates on the GPU's and put everything back together tried to boot, and the computer kicks on then off...

    Flashbacks come back to me so I immediately pull the power and start to test (with the psu tester you suggested) I eventually figured out that the that the wiring is fine, no shorts etc...

    I then take the GPU's out, and test them on motherboard individually, first one same thing power on kicks off.. So I pull the back plate off and put it back in. Start up and it works so I figured the back plate is shorting it. Look over instructions again and redo. Same result power kicks on then off. (come to conclusion that back plate is shorting it)

    I then take it apart and this time I put small nylon washers under the stand offs put it back together....... Now it works.. I cant figure out why that is... Both of the GPU's work with the back plates now... Very weird.
  38. remember your thermal paste is(Electrical Conductive),if you apply to much ...just a thought
  39. I've seen this in forums before for some cards with backplates...sometimes they make contact with a piece of solder or something else and it causes a short.
  40. The solder points make sence lucky I had the nylon washers. I guess I learned something from all this modind lol I should be finished soldering th LEDs today sometime.
  41. Yeah, there is always a possibility that even machine soldered points could have irregular out-croppings that might come into contact with a full cover block or back plate. I know there are some people that found this out with the 480's and 580's and some blocks/plates. I'm willing to bet this is a potential issue with any block/plate for any card...just depending on the individual card in question. Most reported that using some electrical tape or thermal pad will take care of the areas in question, but there is always a chance a sharp piece of solder could work its way through those and still make contact, eventually.
  42. Reduce the picture size, can takes a lot of time to load the thread.
  43. saint19 said:
    Reduce the picture size, can takes a lot of time to load the thread.

    No problem I will use thumbnails from now on sorry.
  44. rubix_1011 said:
    I've seen this in forums before for some cards with backplates...sometimes they make contact with a piece of solder or something else and it causes a short.


    Finished the led soldering... That was "fun" lol like doing that kind of stuff reminds me of when I was young and was a car stereo installer. ;)

    http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/9692/dsc03436.th.jpg

    http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/673/dsc03466u.th.jpg
  45. Very nice work...very clean and well designed. Excellent work all around...
  46. Excellent work in that LCS rig, I wish have the same case and GPU water block ;)
  47. That looks sick ,now you can see at least one block without bending and it brings out all the details of your mobo,well done :) miwanuma
  48. This rig is made possible, thanks to each of you guys here, ortoklaz, rubix on the lcs, saint for stabilizing my OC...

    Funny thing guys I emailed the EK rep and got a response "Thank you for the feedback. We are now already adding PVC washers to all backplates for such scenarios as some cards may have some pins on the back longer as the backplate allows. We have longer screws. Which one do you need?"

    So they know about it.....
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