Corsair H70 worse than Coolermaster V8

I spend $100 thinking my Intel Core i7 875k @ 3.8Mhz was going to run at least 10C-15C with the new water cooling

After hours of carefully installing everything, it turns out this thing is even WORSE than my old Coolermaster

Can anybody explain me if I'm doing something wrong?

Maybe it's because with the Coolermaster V80 I applied a really good layer of Thermal Compound.

Maybe that thermal compound made the Coolermaster V80 REALLY good

Let me know, I have NO IDEA what I did wrong

Fans are push+pull

MAYBE they are both pulling, but I doubt it

but anyway, is there something that can go wrong in the installation, or maybe I did something wrong?

Is is true than the tick radiator is more a problem than a solution?

I've heard the H50 is good, so I though the H70 kicks ass

it only kicks a$$ to my wallet
18 answers Last reply
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  1. I think your expectations were set a bit high expecting to get 10c - 15c temps with the Corsair H70. I have the H70 pushing & pulling external air through the radiator.
    I have the H70, and it sits idle @ 32-34c with my i7 930 over-clocked to 4.2ghz. At load, it never see more than 61c.
    What kind of temps are you getting with the H70 vs the Coolermaster?
  2. Maby your cooling system works in low rmp
    Maby there are some mistakes in water system instalation
  3. 1| the H70 isn;t that bad.
    2| tyou mentioned something about TIM, did you remove the stock TIM that came with the H70? if so, bad idea.

    3| when removing the stock TIM and using your own, you should foolow this guideline:

    apply Tim in 5 peasize drops over the cpu like this:

    |0 0|
    | 0 |
    |0 0|

    and place the cooling plate verticvally without any rotation to it.The pressure you apply will helps spread the TIM out evenly. Don't try the "applied a thin coat" technique...

    having the H70 as intake to the chasis gives cooler temps for cpu, but raises internal case temps. Exhaust is a logical setup and only a 1C difference over the intake setup.

    push/pull is when one fan pushes air thorugh a media while another fan pulls the air from the media: push(fan)>rad>(fan)pull of the other way round for an exhaust setup

    heres a tipo, introduce a shroud to each fan to increase static pressure and elliminate the deadzones of the fans at the center:

    fan>shroud>rad>shroud>fan or the other way round...which also leaves me to ask, what is your case and config?

    which header do you have the fans and pump connected to on your mobo?
  4. Do some research before you invest your money, that's the best advice you'll ever get!
  5. Well I have PUSH/PULL

    my question is
    if I use two different fans, will that maybe make the ventilation even worse

    I bought the absolute best ventilator at FrozenCPU and used that one for pull

    what I THINK is wrong is that when I installed the CPU, it had a VERY THIN layer of Thermal Paste

    I installed it, then it made a LOT OF NOISE (I think it was moving the water from the radiator for the first time)

    so I uninstalled it, remove it, checked it again, installed, it
    then I changed positions, then the case wouldn't close, so I changed positions again

    Anyway, is there any chance that the ridiculous thin layer was kind of wasted with that?

    what is the different when using
    1) No Thermal paste
    2) Pathetic thermal paste (like the one that comes with the cooler)
    3) Good thermal paste

    I appreciate your help

    I don't like to "hate" technology as soon as problem arises, but again, I don't like to spend money in something that gives me little/no result

    Right now I am running the CPU at 3800Mhz and the temperatures are HIGH

    60C the highest one
  6. :/ thas why 4ryan6 mentioned to do a research before buying into it. I bought an H50 cos i had an idea for a mod...not to get the absolute best OC temps. Besides calling the H50/70 would be an laughable understatement at watercooling setups.

    Since thas mentioned: please look at this linka dn go THROUGH the pages...serously all of them, if not the first 300pages should be very informative. - official thread for H50/70 owners and modders...please read'll show you tips on cooling the cooler :P :lol:

    ** bring your OC down and then set about reading...your uselessly burning power while your reading ...and the Tmax should be lower than 60C - are you using CoreTemp/HWmonitor for temp measures?

    BTW you didn't mention your system config...its getting harder and harder to answer your questions just from imagination. Post pics of your setup too. - but read the links :)

    push/pull intake or exhaust?
  7. I am going to Microcenter right now

    I am going to buy the Artic Silver Thermal Compound

    I think that I tried to install that thing, then I moved it, moved it again, change positions... so the little to no thermal compound (which is a big joke by the way), is making the water cooling solution run like crap

    So, tonight I will finally have a realistic result of what to expect from that
  8. i never had anything to complain about the H70...your manhandling it :P

    follow this thread too :

    the TIM corsair use on the H70 is from Shinetsu - its better than Arctic silver 5 - its soo old, its like a granny infront of the new TIM' ever heard of ICD24. AC MX-4?
  9. Lutfij said:
    i never had anything to complain about the H70...your manhandling it :P

    follow this thread too :

    the TIM corsair use on the H70 is from Shinetcu - its better than Arctic silver 5 - its soo old, its like a granny infront of the new TIM' ever heard of ICD24. AC MX-4?

    This definitely seems true. AS5 seems a little outdated. I replaced the thermal layer on my H50 with Arctic Silver 5 because I had heard people were achieving even better results with it than with the stock layer. Though I've only had AS5 on my rig for two days, the core temps actually have increased 2C over the stock layer Corsair puts on the H50. Kind of stinks, but I like the science of it all.

    Honestly though, Going by my own experience, I wouldn't expect too much out of the H50 or H70. They are hyped up too much and seem to do a decent job, but I wouldn't expect anything close to real liquid cooling. The H50 seems decent, but until I went to push/pull with better fans (dropped temps 6C), it didn't seem all that great. Now that I've added AS5, does anyone out there know if I should see improvement with the AS5 over time? Or is it pretty much as good as it's going to get a couple of days after application? I've run the prime95 heat test in 2 hour chunks a couple of times so far? What is your opinion of using AS5 with the H50 or H70?
  10. AS5, Artic Silver 5, is still an excellent thermal compound, learning to properly apply AS5 and allowing cure time for best results, is key to the best performance from it.

    In application the least amount applied the better, for HDT, Heatpipe Direct Touch, type heatsinks you need to be sure the grooves between the copper pipe and aluminum base is filled level, best results is a thin film spread on the HS base and the CPU heat spreader.

    I usually apply it with my finger inside a sandwich baggie, it's easier to see the film coating, and work it to the desired coverage you're after, any one of us here at THGF that swear by AS5, have simply learned how to apply it, to achieve maximum results.

    You are only supposed to be filling the microscopic imperfections not applying a thick goopy layer, when AS5 is applied thick it will act as an insulator rather than a conductor of the heat.

    Did you know you can actually run your heat sink without any thermal compound at all, but the microscopic imperfections between the heat sink base and CPU heat spreader will have air in them and air is a poor heat conductor, thermal compound is only supposed to fill those microscopic air voids, now how much does it take to do that!

    AS5 requires cure in time and performance results will improve possibly as much as 5c, but almost assuredly 3c if it has been properly applied.
  11. I don't think that's a surprising result. Water cooling doesn't mean better unless the radiator is large enough. Return the H70 and buy an Apogee XT block and a 120x3 rad and your temps will plummet.
  12. I like water cooling so far

    I bought the Thermaltake Armor+ MX which supports water cooling so I want to do this thing properly, as long as I don't pay over $200 for it

    Can you tell me what is the best system that costs around the same price as the Corsair H70?

    Paying $200 seems a little bit high, considering I can buy a brand new AMD Phenom II X6 1090T CPU for $220 (plus a $50 discount towards the mobo)

    Let's put the limit at $120, is there anything better than my Corsair H70 for around $120 or so?

    Price is not strict, but I mean, if it gets close to $200, I'd rather buy a Phenom
  13. For boxed water cooling? No. Maybe a CoolIT product.
  14. So is CoolIT SYSTEMS ECO-R120 Advanced Liquid Cooling (ALC) better than Corsair H70

    to be honest it looks 100% the same as the H50

    My H70 with 75% fan speed works really awesome, cool and quiet, I like it

    What about the traditional water cooling?
    How much will that be?

    I just want to know for my Armor+ MX which one will be the best solution
  15. Not sure why your case has anything to do with what would be the "best" CPU cooling...

    A good custom loop would probably be around $300.
  16. ^ + 1

    @ OP - now your switching the thread to what'll be a better buy over the H70? ans: definitely not another closed loop "appropriately titled" water cooling system

    Your H70 is better than the coolit loops any given day, hands down!. The way you've installed it is the issue at play.

    If your looking for a start at custom water cooling loop - get the swiftech H20-220 EDGE kit or the Swiftech H20-320 EDGE kit they go for <$300
  17. So with Cooler Master V8 I can reach 3.8Ghz
    with Corsair H70 I can reach 4.2Ghz

    with a sub $300 water cooling solution, how much I can get with my Intel Core i7 875k?

    Just want to know my max value
  18. It's not a question of what theoretical overclock can you reach with what cooling. That would depend on you. It's a question of comparing heat dissipation properties.

    A 2x120 or 3x120 rad will blow an H70 out of the water (excuse the pun) because it has significantly more surface area to dissipate the heat. More heat dissipated means lower temperatures, which means higher thermal limit for OCing which means higher OC potential. However, you can still easily be limited by other factors like the chip itself or the mobo or whatever else not liking super high overclocks. You may find that with a CPU at 30-40C max under load, you still can't break 4.2ghz. Or, maybe you can get another multiplier out of it, hit 4.4ghz.

    Can't really say one way or the other how it would turn out, but the temps would be lower for sure.
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