430w psu

smonkyness

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I've had this 430w psu for about 5 years now. It was a simple cheap upgrade for me at the time as i was having problems running my old geforce at the time.

I'm about to upgrade my graphics card to a 4670, obviously i dont want anything bad to happen, so could anyone help me understand a little about psu's and my psu?

It's a Superflower sf-430p02
(I cant find any substantial information by googling, if you google that you can find one thread about a guy having problems, with no conclusion)

Written on the psu is this:

AC Input: 100~120Vac/200~240Vac 8.8A/5.0A 50Hz/60Hz
_______________________________________________
DC Output: +3.3v +5v +12v -12v -5v +5vsb
_______________________________________________
Max Output 22A 40A 20A 0.8A 0.5A 2.0A
Current:
_______________________________________________
Max Combined 207w 240w 9.6w 2.5w 10w
Wattage:
410W 22W


Can someone help translate this for me please?

Also I checked my bios to see if I could find more information:

Vcore(flickers between) 1.392v / 1.408
3.3v 3.312
5v (flickers between) 4.945 / 4.97
12v 11.52

These have been taken after a restart when the system had been used for a coupe of hours.

My motherboard in use is: ASUS A8v-Deluxe (with latest flashed bios)
 

smonkyness

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I did have a program called Mother Board Monitor and this told me that my 12v was actually running at 16v, so a lil confused at this i decided to try speedfan.

This is now telling me my 12v is actually running at 11.08v which is a little concerning. Are these programs known to be accurate?

Is this showing that when i boot up my computer its 12v is at 11.52v as my asus mobo tells me, which then drops to 11.08v running in windows?
 
Maybe if you contact the other guy who owns one, you can compare notes. JUST KIDDING. Wow, never seen that short a Google list.

AC Input: Gives the operating ranges for volts and frequency (from the wall), and the max Amps required from the wall at those voltages.

DC Output: The important part for your PC, shows the 6 different DC voltages required by your PC. The key one is the +12V which is what is used by your vid card.

Max Output Current: These 6 numbers line up with the DC Outputs above. So the 3rd one, 20A is the one we want (12V current max).

Max Wattages: The max power available on each different voltage "rail", volts times amps. 3rd number should have been 240W, so you missed a number :)

Max Combined Wattage: appears to be showing as 410W, but I don't know what the 22W is there. This means, regardless of the max on each rail, you cannot draw more than this number. Which should be 430W. Maybe. Unless 430 is like a misleading model number lol.

Anyhow, your 4670 should run fine on a 400W psu, so go for it. If you have a problem, look first to getting a new psu . . .Antec Earthwatts, Corsair, PC Power & Cooling, Seasonic are known reliable.

Just saw your second post, want to check something. Those voltage drops are a bit worrying if real.
 

smonkyness

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ok cpuid tells me this:

Winbond W83627THF hardware monitor

Voltage sensor 0 1.39 Volts [0x57] (CPU VCore)
Voltage sensor 1 11.07 Volts [0xB6] (+12V)
Voltage sensor 2 3.31 Volts [0xCF] (+3.3V)
Voltage sensor 3 4.91 Volts [0xB8] (+5V)
Temperature sensor 0 32°C (89°F) [0x20] (SYSTIN)
Temperature sensor 1 38°C (100°F) [0x4C] (CPUTIN)
Temperature sensor 2 19°C (65°F) [0x25] (VTIN)
Fan sensor 1 2860 RPM [0x76] (FANIN1)
 
The +12V reading of 11.09V matches your other reading, and if true is a problem.

As mindless said, a voltmeter would pin it down. If you have one, grab a spare 4-pin molex connector, put the ground lead in either of the two middle pins, and the + lead one end then the other while the PC is on. One should read +5VDC, the other +12VDC.

If the 11.09V reading is true, the psu should be replaced.
 

No, he didn't miss a number. The "207 watts" figure is the combined power of the 3.3 and 5 volt outputs.

The 11.07 volt reading of the 12 volt output is probably true and more troubling. ATX 2.2 specs say the outputs are +/- 5% (11.4 to 12.6 volts). Most of the old (checkout the 40 amp 5 volt rail most of which is now unusable power), cheap power supplies do not check for an undervolt condition.

Yes, a good 400 watt PSU will power your computer. Here's a couple of examples of good 400 - 430 watt PSU's:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139008
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371006

If you are going to buy Antec, I recommend that you stay away from the Basiq line. In my opinion, Antex cuts too many corners to hit the low price point.


 

smonkyness

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ok thanks for those links. very much appreciated.

yeh 207 watts is supposed to be the +3.3v and +5v combined. I tried to show that, but the forum automatically took away my spacing counts between words.

I've had one main issue within a game at the moment (Team Fortress 2) and now i believe the low 11v could be part of it. When I had ran "speedfan" i also ran tf2 and had speedfan keep a graph record of my volts. It would dip down to 10.7v at times. models and graphics would sometimes dissapear after 30 minutes or so, which was a quick fix with alt-tab out and in.

Going to get a new psu, perhaps one of the above. If i can find it here in the british isles, I cant spend much money:
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/141597/show_product_reviews
Hows this one? cant find reviews at the moment. Some people say Hiper are amazing, but this is their cheapest model.

Im also tempted to find a voltmeter.