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PSU (is this one good?)

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  • Corsair
  • Components
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July 25, 2009 9:41:03 PM

I want to get a 850 corsair but it doesnt come in a combo and would be $60 more then this setup.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?Ite...

Any thoughts.

More about : psu good

July 25, 2009 10:22:18 PM

I'd take the Corsair over this combo any day, IMO its better to get a good PSU now then having to get another one of the CM fails.
July 26, 2009 1:25:54 AM

power supply is the heart of a computer, if it fails nothing else will work. anything over 800 watts should be enough, but hence I am using a cooler master real power 1250 watts, I blown 2 psu of 650, but the are both under warranty so I now have 2 spare power supply of 650 watts on the shelf. it all depends on what the machine will be, quad core, crossfire or sli or tri video cards, gaming machine or office machine. how many hard drives are you going to be installing in it, how drives, how much power do you really need?
you need to use a good psu for a good stable system.
if I where you try to get at least a 1000watts, if it needs it in a peak performance, well the psu can give it of give up and smell like it is burning inside, hence the smoke afterward.

and if you plan on doing upgrades later on well you will not need to change the psu if it strong enough. most of the time a psu will be in constant need of 25 % of its maximum output. but the once in a well it will be ask to give 90 % of the power it has, or 110%.

gaming and overclock pc demands more power.

anyways that is my two cents on that.
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July 26, 2009 1:38:29 AM

Duesouth said:
power supply is the heart of a computer, if it fails nothing else will work. anything over 800 watts should be enough, but hence I am using a cooler master real power 1250 watts, I blown 2 psu of 650, but the are both under warranty so I now have 2 spare power supply of 650 watts on the shelf. it all depends on what the machine will be, quad core, crossfire or sli or tri video cards, gaming machine or office machine. how many hard drives are you going to be installing in it, how drives, how much power do you really need?
you need to use a good psu for a good stable system.
if I where you try to get at least a 1000watts, if it needs it in a peak performance, well the psu can give it of give up and smell like it is burning inside, hence the smoke afterward.

and if you plan on doing upgrades later on well you will not need to change the psu if it strong enough. most of the time a psu will be in constant need of 25 % of its maximum output. but the once in a well it will be ask to give 90 % of the power it has, or 110%.

gaming and overclock pc demands more power.

anyways that is my two cents on that.



Thanks for the input man.

Here is the build i am planning on. I am thinking i am gonna go with the Haf 932 and corsair 850 and plan on running 1 4890 and then a second one in crossfire in another month or 2.

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/268607-13-projected...
July 26, 2009 6:43:29 AM

I'm confused. The Corsair 850TX is only $140 ($120 after rebate ATM). Much cheaper than the $200 CM.
July 26, 2009 7:08:07 AM

unoeye said:
I want to get a 850 corsair but it doesnt come in a combo and would be $60 more then this setup.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?Ite...

Any thoughts.


The coolermaster UCP series seem to be doing quite well, so far. Jonnyguru has tested the 700W unit, and looks really stable. My only concern would be that it is mfg'd by ACBel, but judging by the build of this unit, they seem to have lifted their game.

For the savings, if you like that case, I'd give it a try no worries. Well, except that it's not modular.
July 26, 2009 8:07:08 AM

Duesouth said:
power supply is the heart of a computer, if it fails nothing else will work. anything over 800 watts should be enough, but hence I am using a cooler master real power 1250 watts, I blown 2 psu of 650, but the are both under warranty so I now have 2 spare power supply of 650 watts on the shelf. it all depends on what the machine will be, quad core, crossfire or sli or tri video cards, gaming machine or office machine. how many hard drives are you going to be installing in it, how drives, how much power do you really need?
you need to use a good psu for a good stable system.
if I where you try to get at least a 1000watts, if it needs it in a peak performance, well the psu can give it of give up and smell like it is burning inside, hence the smoke afterward.

and if you plan on doing upgrades later on well you will not need to change the psu if it strong enough. most of the time a psu will be in constant need of 25 % of its maximum output. but the once in a well it will be ask to give 90 % of the power it has, or 110%.

gaming and overclock pc demands more power.

anyways that is my two cents on that.


I don't mean to burst your bubble, but you are grossly exaggerating the amount of power to run a gaming PC. Tested under full load my computer uses just over 300watts. About 330watts if i remember correctly. That's running a Q6600, 8gb of ram, 3 hardrives, and one 8800gts.

The only thing that matters is the amperage on the 12v rail(s). If there's enough to go around then you're good. Saying he needs a anything over 800watts is just wasting money. There are plenty of multi-gpu certified PSU that are 650watts.

Now there's nothing wrong with getting a little extra, just in case. For example, i currently have a 750watt PSU. I had plans for SLI, which didn't happen. And even then 750watts was a little much for just 2 8800gts. http://forums.slizone.com/index.php?showtopic=405

My regards to the OP. I personally wouldn't pick the combo, as i'm not familiar with the quality of Coolermaster PSUs. Perhaps someone could shed some better light an the brand. My recommendation would be for single card any good quality PSU, i'd suggest around 500watts to allow some wiggle room for some overclocking and extra hardrives if the need arises. Much over that would be overkill. PC Power and Cooling, Corsair, Silverstone, Seasonic, Antec. They all make excellent PSUs. For an SLI/Crossfire build, i'd go around a 650watt quality PSU. You could get away with a 550watt PSU provided it has the correct around of amperage and connectors. But for simplicities sake i'd go a certified PSU, simply because they will have the necessary cables.
July 26, 2009 9:01:28 AM

what PSU is needed for i7 (OC to ~3.66ghz), sli gtx 275 (or CF 4890)[all overclocked a bit], 3 hdd? would a quality corsair 750tx be enough, or would an 850tx be better?
July 26, 2009 9:17:23 AM

lucuis said:
I don't mean to burst your bubble, but you are grossly exaggerating the amount of power to run a gaming PC. Tested under full load my computer uses just over 300watts. About 330watts if i remember correctly. That's running a Q6600, 8gb of ram, 3 hardrives, and one 8800gts.

The only thing that matters is the amperage on the 12v rail(s). If there's enough to go around then you're good. Saying he needs a anything over 800watts is just wasting money. There are plenty of multi-gpu certified PSU that are 650watts.

Now there's nothing wrong with getting a little extra, just in case. For example, i currently have a 750watt PSU. I had plans for SLI, which didn't happen. And even then 750watts was a little much for just 2 8800gts. http://forums.slizone.com/index.php?showtopic=405

My regards to the OP. I personally wouldn't pick the combo, as i'm not familiar with the quality of Coolermaster PSUs. Perhaps someone could shed some better light an the brand. My recommendation would be for single card any good quality PSU, i'd suggest around 500watts to allow some wiggle room for some overclocking and extra hardrives if the need arises. Much over that would be overkill. PC Power and Cooling, Corsair, Silverstone, Seasonic, Antec. They all make excellent PSUs. For an SLI/Crossfire build, i'd go around a 650watt quality PSU. You could get away with a 550watt PSU provided it has the correct around of amperage and connectors. But for simplicities sake i'd go a certified PSU, simply because they will have the necessary cables.


In regards to the actual amount of watts needed, you are trying to row upstream... But for your edification, I'll re-post this link:

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/system....

As I already posted, it looks like ACBel has picked up their game if the newer coolermaster PSU's keep up this level of performance:

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=...

I realise that it is only the 700w UCP unit, but Jonny's site is small, self-funded and still does the best reviews available IMO.
July 26, 2009 2:23:11 PM

I have a antec tp3 650watts that I have blown twice
voltage 100-240 vac
frequency 47hz-63hz
actual amperage 9a @115v or 4.5a @230v

and blown 2 corsair vx650watts sitting on the shelf still wrap in it original package.
ac input 100-240v
current 8a
frequency 50/60hz

I did not want to mention the manufacture but know you are insulting me. so well there you go. so just because it has good reviews online does not actually mean that it is good.
if the reviews are written by the manufacture well... enough said
if an end user writes the reviews then there you go.
both of these can not handle my current system for more then 15 to minutes. once loaded win xp 32bit okay
I soon as I demand from it, to give for my whole system under load(gaming) well they get smoky and blow.

current system
psu cooler master 1250watts real power pro
motherboard P5Q-EM
cpu q9550
ram corsair dominator 1066mhz twin 2gigs x2 for a total of 4 gigs
video 1 ati radeon 4870 gdr5 1 gig
4 hard drives, 2x500 gigs in raid, 80 gigs for master boot, 250gigs for ubuntu, all sata2
philips dvd burner pata
floppy drive of course.
and I have like 7 usb devices connected to it.
bluetooth keyboard and mouse logitech mx5500
and good old crt 19 inch monitor .21 pixel pitch
oh and did you actually stick a multimeter to verify your psu

and do you know the difference between "PEAK power and RMS power" in actual terms of electricity.

it means a big thing. the actual power of the power supply is multiply the wattage it says it gives by 60% and you shall get the real wattage it shall give.

oh and what does the manufacture of the video card states in the manual??? 550 or 650 watts minimum for the power supply. so...
I am not saying that antec, corsair are bad power supply, and that cooler master is better. it is just that, it is what is working and not working for me. without prejudice. try it out and see what works for you.
antec tp3 650 cost me 159.99 plus tax
corasir vx650 cost me 179.99 plus tax
cooler master 1250 real power cost me 299 plus tax.

good luck with the hunting!!!
July 26, 2009 2:35:02 PM

If you have blown that many PSUs (4?) on that rig in the same spot I'd say you have an electrical issue with the outlet/breaker you are running on. That, or you have some insanely bad luck.

I'm glad you found a PSU that seems to be hanging in there, but you should not recommend to others PSU sizes based on your experience, as it is clearly out of the ordinary. 1250 watts is disgusting overkill for that system if anyone else were purchasing it.
July 26, 2009 2:40:17 PM

insanely bad luck, but at the warehouse of antec up in markham they said well you see the 10 skids of bad power supply. it is just a bad batch that was manufacture.

ie mass production.

ya 2 corsair and and 2 antec have blown in my system. and all of this is within a week after purchasing them from the store. the store that I bought them from also has had this issue. they had like over 20 or so customer return the power supply before they pulled them off the shelf and return them to the manufacture. hence why the store did not sell that power supply for a month. they correct the problem themselves by returning it to the manufacture. hence the 7 days instore exchange on electronic or 14 days then afterward deal with the manufacture.
July 26, 2009 7:47:31 PM

Quote:
I have a antec tp3 650watts that I have blown twice
voltage 100-240 vac
frequency 47hz-63hz
actual amperage 9a @115v or 4.5a @230v

and blown 2 corsair vx650watts sitting on the shelf still wrap in it original package.
ac input 100-240v
current 8a
frequency 50/60hz


Sounds like bad luck to me.

Quote:

I did not want to mention the manufacture but know you are insulting me. so well there you go. so just because it has good reviews online does not actually mean that it is good.
if the reviews are written by the manufacture well... enough said
if an end user writes the reviews then there you go.
both of these can not handle my current system for more then 15 to minutes. once loaded win xp 32bit okay
I soon as I demand from it, to give for my whole system under load(gaming) well they get smoky and blow.


Not sure who you're talking to here, but i don;t see anyone insulting anyone. But again, looks like bad luck with PSUs to me.

Quote:

oh and did you actually stick a multimeter to verify your psu


I used a multi-meter to test the current being pulled while my computer was under load. If i remember right it was 2.8amps. Which i might add is an over measurement since my monitor and stereo where idling on that circuit as well.

Quote:

and do you know the difference between "PEAK power and RMS power" in actual terms of electricity.


I held the highest marks along with one of my friends in my electronics 10-12 classes. The highest marks in my trades class. My dad is an electrician. I'm also a Audiophile/Stereo Enthusiast. I sure as hell hope i know what RMS ( Root Mean Square) and Peak power mean.

Quote:

it means a big thing. the actual power of the power supply is multiply the wattage it says it gives by 60% and you shall get the real wattage it shall give.

If i'm understanding you correctly, you incorrect. For example; 1000watt PSU rated at 80% efficiency will pull 1200watts from the outlet when putting out it's full 1000watts. NOT a 1000watt PSU rated at 80% efficiency will only put out 800watts. Here's a 1000watt PSU rated at 80% efficiency. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... Notice the AC input voltage of ~13amps or ~1300watts at 100v.

Quote:

oh and what does the manufacture of the video card states in the manual??? 550 or 650 watts minimum for the power supply. so...

Means little. The manufacturer doesn't want to deal with people that buy wimpy little PSUs without enough amperage on the 12v rail. So the recommend a PSU that about 30% more then you might need.

Quote:

I am not saying that antec, corsair are bad power supply, and that cooler master is better. it is just that, it is what is working and not working for me. without prejudice. try it out and see what works for you.
antec tp3 650 cost me 159.99 plus tax
corasir vx650 cost me 179.99 plus tax
cooler master 1250 real power cost me 299 plus tax.

good luck with the hunting!!!


I never said Coolermaster was bad either. I just said i wouldn't recommend it because I wasn't familiar with their quality. Apparently they aren't bad, so i will change my tune.
!