Hello, I am new to this forum. If this has been asked before please delete it.
Does anyone know if "Liquid Kool" and distilled water protect against galvanic corrosion between my copper XSPC Rasa and my Aluminum 1977 Bonneville heater core?
I am thinking of upgrading to two heater cores and am wondering if "Liquid Kool", Propylene Glycol based, will prevent corrosion between aluminum and copper.
Wow, im a tard! I forgot to mention its a water cooling loop and the "Liquid kool" is going to help prevent corrosion in the water, between the heater cores (radiator) and the water block. I was wondering if "liquid kool" prevents corrosion.
nothing will prevent the corrosion process when you have aluminum and copper in the same loop. The most you can do to retard the process is by using very clean distilled water but even then the oxygen in the air will acidify the water and resumes the corrosion process eventually.
Is this your Liquid Kool? As a Glycol mixture it should slow down the rate of corrosion in your system. How much is needed for that specific item to actually provide protection I do not know. That specific product is up to 30% ethylene glycol.
Since other additives (fun salt compounds) in there may not be designed to cooperate with the tubing commonly used I'd recommend going to a product specifically designed with PC watercooling in mind. There's also the added bonus of it being less toxic. Liquid Kool C1532 MSDS (PDF)
Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) tends to see lesser use as a (questionably useful?) biocide. I would recommend adding it simply because there's no significant benefit and it slightly lowers the cooling effectiveness. Copper Sulfate - Cu(SO4) - is a much better biocide and is pretty much PTNuke in a nutshell.
For plastic corrosion you're thinking Acetone. That stuff breaks down plastics quite well. Also quite flammable. Not something used in a watercooled PC.
I like that new product quite a lot better. Lower health hazard rating and much more generic warnings on the MSDS. I also doubt that that there'd be any interaction with it and your tubing wall. I've seen similar products to that one used.
You should try looking for this yourself as I'm not 100% on this, but you should only need about 2oz to inhibit corrosion in your loop. You want to use as little as possible since that product has much less heat carrying capacity than water.
Okay, I just added the "Liquid kool" to my system, I added 15% by weight. It is a little thick but my fountain pump is still doing fine. Ill wait a week and post back if it has helped slow the black galvanic buildup on my water block.
Under the impression Bonneville heatercores are brass/copper...not aluminum...most heatercores have been used for years. All the ones I have seen are brass+copper made, although some newer ones are aluminium.
You don't want to mix metals in a WC loop. You aren't running antifreeze under high pressures to prevent corrosive build up, and even in cars, it still happens.
Yeah, I'd definitely pass on aluminum. I know there are people that go on and on that it's not a big deal if you use...but do you really want to take the chance? Koolance didn't get all their bad rep on corrosion a few years back for nothing...
Either ditch the aluminum heatercore (if it is possible; maybe return it??) otherwise, you can probably get away with some corrosion inhibitors. Best solution is to just avoid the situation if possible. If you are already committed to using it, then find some good inhibitor...but be diligent. You are spending how much on blocks/pump...and went cheap on the rad/heatercore. Which is more important to you in the long term?
BTW...Bonnie heatercores cost about the same as a Swiftech MCR320 rad...~$55ish...I checked into it a while back, unless you got a killer deal on the heatercore.
2) mounting the heatercore- they don't come ready to affix to a case
3) mounting fans- see #2 and consider fans part of that problem
Personally, I've done the heatercore and had fun with it. It cost more than I would've paid for a watecooling rad, but it was fun for a while. It looks kind of ghetto unless you take some time and enclose it, or create some good shrouds for it.
Again...a lot of extra time and money just to get back to par with a PC watercooling rad.