Help finding Best Memory - GA-EP35-DS3L

Hi y'all... a little over ayear ago I put my PC together. I currently have:

Mobo: Gigabyte GA-EP35-DS3L
Memory: 2GB Crucial Ballistix Tracer (i think they are 1066 MHz) ~ 1 went bad though.. so running 1GB currently.
CPU: E8400 @ 3GHz
Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GTS 512

I use to game a lot and everything worked great. I am looking to get some new Memory, either 2x1GB or 2X2GB. I have always just used the Newegg Memory Compatility Tool to find or upgrade memory for my MOBO's, but this MOBO is no longer made, so no longer shown/found using their tool.

I am not smart enough to know what my buddy did to get this RAM to work properly, because I know the voltages were off.

If anyone could help with a different tool to use to try and find compatible memory or if you know of this MOBO and some good Memory for it. Money isn't a huge issue, but I probably wont be spending more then $100.00... don't need top of the line stuff if I don't have to.

Thanks in advance
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More about help finding memory ep35 ds3l
  1. Hello :)
    Are you going to OC or not ?
    If you are going to OC,then go for a 4GB DDR2 800 RAM CL4 brands like OCZ,Corsair,Geil,Crucial etc are good
  2. I had a P35-DS3L, and I used OCZ Platinum DDR2 800 5-5-5-18 RAM. I also used G. Skill DDR2 800 5-5-5-18 RAM. They both worked great on a P35, I'm not sure if there is a different in P45 for compatibility.
  3. This has proven to work well for several people here with socket 775s:
  4. Thanks for the advice.

    No.. I don't plan to OC... I honestly just want to put the sticks in and go. I have a friend that can do bios tweeking and stuff.. but I really just don't want to bother with it if possible.

    I'm guessing its just preference... but which is better.. the GSkill or OCZ... I know awhile back when the MOBO was still on the Newegg Compatibility Tool.. some nice Dominators showed up... but I'll take a look at the GSkill and OCZ's you mentioned.

    My only worry is that I may be required to do some tweaking anyway. I know with the Ballistic Tracer Ram I currently have.. my buddy had to add +0.4 on the voltage setting... If I bought those you listed.. would I run into issues?
  5. The OCZ sometimes need voltages slightly above spec, for some motherboards, and are a little bit trickier to set up - there seems to be a sizeable amount of either variation from stick to stick, or variation in how they integrate with different northbridges; the G.Skills seem to work for everyone, often run above rated speed slightly below rated voltage, and are likely to work without adjustment, once you've done the (mandatory) "Load Optimized Defaults" from the BIOS... The only time they need 'twiddling' is if you intend to run more than two sticks, and then - all RAM needs tweaking to get four DIMMs working!

    If you need BIOS parameters:

    GA-EP35-DS3L E8400 to 3 or 3.6 GHz
    Intel E8400 1333FSB x9.0mult 3GHz .85-1.3625V Core E0 sSpec SLB9J CPUID 1067Ah/Core C0 sSpec SLAPL CPUID 10676h
    G.Skill F2-8500CL5D 8GB (4 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 memory: 5-5-5-15-2t nominal 2.1v

    Gentle (but noticeable), no-risk, low-voltage Overclocking parameters are in italics...

    If you haven't yet done it, pull out one stick, start with a BIOS' "Load Optimized Defaults"

    Before we start ramping things up, I want to teach you a new skill involving the BIOS: Do the <DEL> at the boot to enter the BIOS; notice, at the bottom, the <F11> "Save CMOS to BIOS" - hit this, and you should get a menu that will show a number (the count varies by BIOS) of empty 'slots', each of which will store an entire set of BIOS parameters, to be re-loaded from the corresponding <F12> "Load CMOS from BIOS"; this is a wonderful overclocker's feature. What I do with it, is to save my 'baseline' working parameters, so if I change something that 'irritates' the board, and forces a reset of all the parameters to defaults, or, even worse, get so screwed up I need to do a 'clear CMOS', I can get back to my starting point with no effort, and without having to remember 85 separate settings! Another thing it prevents is two hours' troubleshooting, having forgotten a change to a crucial parameter - like, "wait a minute - didn't I have the Trd at seven?!" It's pretty self-explanatory, and I alway urge people to start right away by taking the time to give the 'slots' names that mean something: in two hours, "Try2" and "Try3" will not be very helpful, but "450@+10MCH" and "450@+15MCH" will! Another use is for 'green' settings; overclocks, as a rule, do not 'play well' with green features, such as 'down-clocking' and 'down-volting'; with the storage slots, you can set up one profile, say "Green", with all the settings at 'stock' values, and all the 'green' features enabled; another, say "Balls2Wall" with a full overclock, and all the 'green' stuff turned off... Another neat feature of this 'slot' system is, for most BIOS, the mechanism itself will keep track of which ones have booted successfully, and how many times (up to, I believe, a max of five)!

    On the "Advanced BIOS Features" page:

    "CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E)" to "Disabled"
    "C2/C2E State Support" to "Disabled" (if present...)
    "C4/C4E State Support" to "Disabled" (if present...)
    "CPU Thermal Monitor 2 (TM2)" to "Enabled"
    "CPU EIST Function" to "Disabled"
    "Virtualization Technology" to "Enabled" - this allows use of Win7's fantastic VirtualXp feature...
    "Full Screen LOGO Show" to "Disabled"

    On the "Integrated Peripherals" page:

    Your manual shows "Legacy USB storage detect", but later BIOS say "USB Storage Function" - either way, set to "Disabled"

    On the "Power Management Setup" page:

    "ACPI Suspend Type" to "S1(POS)" (for now...)
    "HPET Support" to "Enabled"
    "HPET Mode" to whichever OS type you're running - "32-bit" if an x86 version, "64-bit" if an x64 version...

    On the "MB Intelligent Tweaker(M.I.T.)" page:

    "Robust Graphics Booster" to "Auto"
    "CPU Clock Ratio" to "9"
    "Fine CPU Clock Ratio" to ".0"
    "CPU Frequency" - this one can't be set, it's calculated, and will change when we set the next few items...
    "CPU Host Clock Control" to "Enabled"
    "CPU Host Frequency (Mhz)" to "334"
    "CPU Host Frequency (Mhz)" to "401"
    "PCI Express Frequency (Mhz)" to "100" (not auto...)
    "C.I.A.2" to "Disabled"
    "Performance Enhance" to "Standard"
    "System Memory Multiplier (SPD)" to "3.20 B"
    "System Memory Multiplier (SPD)" to "2.66 D"
    "Memory Frequency (Mhz)" - again, can't be set, it's calculated...
    "DRAM Timing Selectable (SPD)" to "Auto"

    ******** Standard Timing Control ********
    the memory timings should be good in "Auto"...

    The strap is the reason we used a 334 or 401 clock, instead of a nice even 400: the 'straps' are sets of northbridge timings - much like memory latencies, the faster you go, the 'looser' the timings have to be... There are four straps, corresponding to the Intel FSB ratings: 200 (800FSB), 266 (1066FSB), 333 (1333FSB), and 400 (1600FSB - Intel actually does make a 1600 FSB CPU - the QX9775 - but, I think, it's over $1500 a pop!); each strap has it's own set of available memory multipliers (ratios). For instance, the 2.66 we used (which is actually a 4:3 bus to bus ratio) is available only on the 400 strap. Anyway, the strap latencies, for some northbridges, don't 'kick in' until one over the selected strap; so, in other words, setting the clock to 401 guarantees that we're getting the 400 latencies/timings...

    ******** System Voltage Optimized ********
    "System Voltage Control to "Manual"
    "DDR2 OverVoltage Control" to "+0.30V" (should already be set by the "Load Optimized"...)
    "(G)MCH OverVoltage Control" to "+0.10V" if you intend to add more than two sticks of ram...
    "CPU Voltage Control to "Normal"
    "CPU Voltage Control to "1.3250V"

    And that should do it!

    I should point out that getting two reboots in a row here is perfectly normal behavior; it seems that, when you change certain settings (and we don't exactly know which ones - the only sure one I know is Trd - if you change it, I think you get the 'twin' reboot) it boots once to 'see where it's at', recalculates its remaining 'auto' settings, saves them, and then boots again. Three reboots in a row, however, usually indicates that the board was 'given indigestion' by your settings, and is going back to defaults. This sometimes goes astray, and it doesn't get back into proper operation - for example, at this point, mine will sometimes 'lock' itself into 111MHz x a six multiplier - and take a week to do a whole boot - that's time to do a CMOS reset, and use your 'stored' <F12> profile to get back to where you were...

    Good luck!

  6. OK well I think I found the RAM I want to get. I double checked and the current RAM I am using is the Crucial Ballistic Tracer 1Gb since one went bad. The RAM is 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)

    I am looking at getting: G.SKILL PI Black 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-6400CL4D-4GBPI-B....

    It seems like good memory and I figured I might as well just bump up to 4 gigs.

    Bill thanks for your post. I will possibly look into doing what you have told me. I do have a question though. Above you mention "Virtualization Technology" as part of something new with Windows 7? I am on XP still and don't plan on getting Windows 7 for awhile. Is this an issue?

    And one last thing... this RAM I chose is CAS 4 which is the lowest I could find for the 800, would looking for 1066 sticks be better or more?
  7. I think I posted a link to the wrong RAM - this is the stuff I've had a lot of experience with:
    the reason I recommend the 1066 is to futureproof the system in case you decide (and it's a worthwhile decision) to overclock - 800 RAM, depending on its quality, will limit your FSB to about 1650-1700, and most Intel CPUs will coast at 1800 or higher...
    If you never intend to OC, the PI will do well, and looks like it has good cooling (which never hurts - I put fans on mine, and will, next major build, give Koolance DIMM 'water-packs' a try...).

    Above you mention "Virtualization Technology" as part of something new with Windows 7? I am on XP still and don't plan on getting Windows 7 for awhile. Is this an issue?

    Vrtualization allows you to run one operating system 'inside' another - with win7, you can install a 'virtual Xp', that ensures any old apps that are 'peculiar', and don't 'like' 7 (and I've found very few), can run in a 'separate box' that is accessible anytime... If you're not using it, you just disable it in the BIOS (and you don't even have to do that - it won't hurt anything) and ignore it...
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