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Northbridge overheating due to poor cooling on laptop mother board

Last response: in Motherboards
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October 24, 2009 1:38:54 PM

After 4 years, my SONY PCG-8V1L die and can not turn on. I checked inside power cable and fuses all are good but the northbridge's cooling due to large gap between them using thick mud paste. I tried to heat the back of motherboard at where the chipset is and then press chip back. I am yet able to fix it. ANY SUGGESTION?

Pete
a b V Motherboard
October 25, 2009 10:36:41 PM

Elmers or Wrigleys
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a b V Motherboard
October 26, 2009 12:04:26 AM

You heated the back of the motherboard? With? A curling iron? Soldering gun? Put it on the toaster?

OK, is the chip actually pushed out of a socket? Or do you mean the heatsink is not attached properly?
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November 2, 2009 1:29:22 PM

I used helogen 90W to heat up motherboard for 12 minutes. The northbridge Intel QG82945 is directly mounted on motherboard without socket.

I just found my 1.5 years old HP Tx1499us got same northbridge (NVIDIA 6150) overheat problem due to this scheme (thick paste to fill the big gap btw heatsink metal plate and it). I used helogen light to heat up and it got fixed. And I use a dime (coin) now to fill the gap btw it and heatsink.

The difference btw my SONY's problem and HP's is that there is 1 second blink of power indicator light in HP but no blink at all in SONY. I think my 4 years old SONY's northbridge is gone.

Actually surface mount technology is using oven with flux. If I can get the chip 82945. The thick mud-paste is definitely timebomb.
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November 2, 2009 1:34:25 PM

roonj said:
Elmers or Wrigleys


As matter of fact, my HP tx1499us do use epoxy to glue both NVIDIA northbridge 6150 and southbridge 430 on motherboard.
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November 2, 2009 2:14:03 PM

By the way, in the video he used a penny to fill the gap of heatsink. However, due to my gap seems a little less, I changed to use a dime.
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a b V Motherboard
November 2, 2009 4:25:08 PM

Interesting video. Seems like the video skipped the most important step - pressing the chip back into place.

Also, a penny might have much better conductive properties than a dime. So your dime may not enhance the cooling as well. If it was me, I'd put the penny or some spacer on the outside of the heat sink - ie, press the existing heat sink tighter onto the chip.

The basic problem I see with this is that it assumes that generalized heat over the area of the ? 40 pins from the GPU soldered into the motherboard will heat each hole/pin/solder enough to loosen the solder, yet not so much to cause the solder to flow from one hole/pin to the next - creating a short and destruction of the GPU. In addition, the motherboard is not a single layer board - so that heating the board may cause solder un-related to the GPU to flow and short out the board itself.

These chips are soldered into the board using a computer/robot. Even with a pinpoint hi-temp soldering tool and expert use of a wick, the chances of successfully re-soldering a chip with dozens of pins is not good.

And of course, we don't know that your problem was related to the Northbridge. And remember, the key item in fixing it wasn't the use of the penny or improving the cooling - it was the GPU becoming dis-connected. If that indeed was your problem, and the method actually can work - your use of only 90Ws may not have been enough heat.

Might try my toaster idea!

4 years is a lot of life from any computer.

Also, consider the GPU again. If it was getting too hot, a more likely result of this long before the solder would go soft would be for the chip itself to fry. Can't fix that with a heat lamp.
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April 29, 2013 10:23:03 PM

Hey bro im from Philippines and i have a suggestion for you.. do not try to reheat the north bridge IC at back of the motherboard because you make the ic shorted in that process...

I require you to use a Hot Air Blower, and a flux,
since you allready reheat the Northbridge IC maybe the solder of the ic is now shorted, now try to do this, put a small amount of flux in the top of IC then reheat the IC with the Hot Air very slowly clockwise then counter it, and make sure the distance is 1.5 ins from the top.. do this in 30-60 secs then cool it down, then test it.
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