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Need Some help on new WC loop.

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March 9, 2011 11:45:48 PM

Hello, i'm looking for suggestions to upgrade or replace my current loop and case if need be.

First off, things I have from my exsisting loop:

-580 XSPC Razor Full Waterblock- Prefer not to replace
http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Razor-GTX580-Full-cover-GP...

-Everything in the XSPC Rassa 750 RS240 kit
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11743/ex-wat-159/XSPC...

-120mm Salvaged H50 Rad

-Current Case (A bit cramped) NZXT Hades
http://www.xoxide.com/nzxt-hades.html

Current Specs:

ASUS ROG Crosshair IV
580GTX Reference Card
AMD 1055t
CORSAIR XMS3 8GB

Prefer to reuse some of the components (res, blocks, fans,)

Iv'e Been running this confing so far as follows:

RES/PUMP--SPLITTER--240RAD--GPU Block---SPLITTER--RES\PUMP
.........................|...........................................|
...................... H50 120mm RAD--------------CPU

(Ignore the dots, needed them there to show the diagram correctly)

Also, WC friendly case suggestions are welcome!

Prefer QuickDisconects.

Budget $400-$500 for WC components and case if needed.




More about : loop

March 10, 2011 12:08:23 AM

First axe the H50 Rad. It's aluminum and doesn't play well with the copper everywhere else.

Also, don't bother with the splitters. The CPU block likely is much more restrictive than the GPU block. This means that your getting lower flow (lower performance) in terms of the CPU cooling. Keep things simple, one non-branching loop.

With good fans simply adding another 240 rad to the loop would be a good cooling upgrade after talking the first two points into consideration. If you've got no more room in case for a 240 you could get a radbox and hang it off the back. Don't fret the component order, it will have a minimal net impact.

A quick list of some nice cases for internal watercooling.
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 10, 2011 12:22:39 AM

^Yep. Pretty much covers it.

Trash that H50 piece of junk rad.

Run a single, serial loop...drop the splitters/parallel loop

Another 2x120mm rad would be ideal; if not, add at least another 1x120mm rad (that isn't from an H50/H70).
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Related resources
March 10, 2011 12:28:13 AM

Do you think I should create 2 separate loops? or is one pump res enough?
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March 10, 2011 12:37:44 AM

One is enough. No need to make things more complicated.

You'd only need really need to do separate loops if the combined single loop resulted in absurdly high restriction/really low flow rate that a single pump could not handle. With two blocks you've got no danger of that.
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 10, 2011 12:48:41 AM

I have a bunch of info linked in my signature. Here are a few that I hand picked to help out:


Loop Order Myth
Quote:
Conclusion
There's no change in flowrate and basically no change in CPU temps. The rad-before-block config performs slightly better, but the difference is insignificant (even with a lot of heatdump from the pumps). I think this myth is busted. Thanks for reading


Tubing Size/Performance Comparison

Coolant Performance roundup test

Single loop vs. Dual loop comparison

Take-away for Dual/Single loop comparison:
Quote:
What we see above is that even under extreme use, the dual loop has all but lost its performance advantage against the single loop. Incidentally, the same type of trend could have also been obtained by adding a second CPU in the loop instead of removing a GPU.

Conclusions:

Under extreme performance scenarios, and from a pure performance standpoint, dual loops versus single loop are neither better nor worse, under the strict condition that the load ratios are evenly balanced.
Under the most commonly encountered loads though, single loops do win.

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a b K Overclocking
March 10, 2011 11:56:49 AM


The radiator.
The BI Stealth has a high FPI count that requires higher RPM ( aka , noisier ) fans.
The MCR220 , RS240 or RX240 would be better options , in my opinion

The H50 rad wouldn't have done you any good with it's welded on .25" barbs.
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 10, 2011 12:58:49 PM

Yes, trash that H50 rad...you don't want anything to do with it if you are building your own loop.

Agree with delluser1 on the BIX rad; it's high FPI and would work well with high CFM fans, but most people want low/med fans on their rads...which again, like delluser1 mentions, you can go with the Swiftech or XSPC rads.
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March 10, 2011 1:13:29 PM

ahh, thnx for the replies, gonna post later on my final parts list. im a noob, but want go beyond kits. thnx again
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 10, 2011 1:20:46 PM

Glad to help; there are really only a handful of us on Tom's that really do most of the watercooling support...many, many others know barely enough to be dangerous. There are other forums I am a member at with entire sections devoted to watercooling, with many, many of the members being experts. The time I spend here is mainly to help inform and keep the 'wild west' under control...there is a lot of poor information that floats around here on watercooling.
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March 10, 2011 1:20:52 PM

any suggestions on fans? gentle typhoons?

Any suggestions on recommending a UV Cathode, LED for UV reactive tubing? I search for them, but they usually are either blue or purple, but not true UV, I don't want to make the same mistake a second time.
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 10, 2011 1:22:02 PM

GT's are very popular for WC rads; good combo of speed, power and noise levels.
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March 15, 2011 12:17:21 AM

These are the final components I chose:

Tubes:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7687/ex-tub-320/Primo...

120mm Rad:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8521/ex-rad-144/XSPC_...

Compression Fittings:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12503/ex-tub-788/XSPC...

UV cathodes:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2998/lit-46/Dual_12_C...

Case:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Fans: GT's

CPU and vga block, res/pump and a another 240 rad from the XSPC kit listed above, using distilled water and pt nuke. I'll post back with some pics, the parts are coming tomorrow.
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 15, 2011 12:49:27 AM

Looks like a good build, let us know how it goes.

Good luck.
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March 15, 2011 11:39:20 PM

NOOOOOOO, there was a leak (12 hrs later) my video card has gone to heaven! Do you guys know if you can still rma it??

The culprit was the CPU block unfortunately, its going to be a long week...
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March 15, 2011 11:54:41 PM

Tis a miracle, video card works after drying!
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March 16, 2011 12:08:00 AM

chavo12345 said:
Tis a miracle, video card works after drying!


That's exactly why you leak check with no power in the rest of the system. If there's now power to the device it can usually withstand a splash of water. Especially when it's a bare device and there is no place out of sight for water to hide.

That's also why I like to rig my connections and then take a long break. When I come back I usually spot small errors and correct them before any problems can come of them.
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 16, 2011 12:18:44 AM

^Yes...this is a prime example why you jumper your PSU and let your loop run on leak test and have some paper towels laying on key components...just in case. If stuff gets water on it while the ATX plug isn't connected to the board and you power the PSU, you aren't getting power to the PCI-e slots, MB, etc to cause a short.

This is watercooling, loop filling 101.

Quote:
Tis a miracle, video card works after drying!


Very lucky...it has happened, but it's a good thing water didn't get into the PCI/PCIe slots while running. Chalk this one up to luck and good experience going forward. You mentioned RMA...what brand card, and was it registered? EVGA requires hardware to be registered within 30 days of purchase for no-questions-asked RMAs.
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March 16, 2011 12:33:13 AM

I ran it for 12hrs jumpered, I didnt notice anything. Im just happy that it's working. PNY and it was registered. Anybody know of any company that ships this late (for a new cpu waterblock)
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 16, 2011 12:37:47 AM

Ships late...? I guess it depends late relative to what time frame? :) 

As for PNY...not sure...haven't used them, but worth checking into. Odd that you saw issues after leak testing that long...was it the fitting, or the actual block? O-ring? Just odd...
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March 16, 2011 12:38:23 AM

^ (Edit) Ha ha... beaten to the punch.

It's uncommon for a cpu block to have a manufacturing defect that makes it permanently leaky.

You should double check any screws on the block they should be tight. It's far more likely that le leak is from a barb that isn't screwed in all the way, hose that isn't secure on the barb or a flawed rubber o-ring.

If you used any tools to attach the bard it's likely that you over-tightned and damaged the o-ring.
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March 16, 2011 12:41:41 AM

I will try that, its going to take time to disassemble everything (for a third time :-) ). I had compression fittings on the block, but both where too wide to fit so I took them off and put some barbs on, I may have overtightened.
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March 16, 2011 12:47:10 AM

Im pretty sure its one of the barbs, I noticed a lonely o-ring on my table...
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March 16, 2011 12:51:56 AM

chavo12345 said:
Im pretty sure its one of the barbs, I noticed a lonely o-ring on my table...


That would do the trick.
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 16, 2011 12:58:54 AM

Aggghhhh...damn. Yeah, o-ring missing from a barb would do it. Give it another shot...might take care of your issues; doubt you need to replace a block unless it has a crack.
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March 16, 2011 1:52:56 AM

well, oring has been placed and now im test running it for about 12hours, seems to have done the trick since last time the water came dripping out, now nothing seems to be comming out. I hope it it works. Also, any tips on keeping a gpu from sagging? the block seems a bit heavy, and is a little curved.
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 16, 2011 12:37:24 PM

I had this issue...and there are a couple solutions. First, there are backplates you can sometimes find that will address this issue. Secondly, you can find some card-keepers that should help support heavy cards to prevent bowing...I think they are ~$10 for a GPU sized keeper.

What I did was DIY: I had some skinny PVC from the hardware store that I originally used as radiator standoffs. I cut some pieces to fit exactly between my SLI cards and the bottom of my case. Then, I got some nylon 'bolts' and inserted those into one of the corner stock cooler screw holes to hold the PVC tubing in place between each card and then the bottom of the case. Cheap, and works great.
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March 17, 2011 8:52:58 PM

well, unfortunately after 24hrs, a little bit later, it started leaking again! (Luckily I had some paper towels by the cpu block to catch the water) I checked the block, and of the holes threads where all F***** up, causing one of the barbs to not align correctly! I may have tightened too much, lesson learned though. I have ordered a new EK block.

Thanks for the tips rubix!
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 17, 2011 11:29:53 PM

That's unfortunate to hear...hope your new block fares better. I don't know if you can RMA the one with bad threads or not...but worth a shot.

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!