Upgrade to MCP655 BAD TEMPS?!?

Oh, I think it might have to do with pressure in my t-line (with air). Any info?

T-line should be on the inlet side of the pump.
Coretemp reads the cores, the bios doesn't, it's not a problem.

Should I drain and re-do?

What about my bad temps?

I'd redo it.
What bad temps ? All you've stated is that the cores are at 29º according to Coretemp, that's no where near enough info to determine if your temps are bad.

The Coretemp minimum was 21c idle in my old setup, but 27c-29c in the new. The load temps on stock speed 2500K are now 45c+. I like to OC, so that can't be good.

If I redo, what loop order is best?

Ok, slow down a little. The BIOS flash might have fixed a temp reading that was showing cooler cores before.

Your other post said you got a new pump (as does this thread)...did you do a complete drain/refill? Are you sure you don't have air in your radiator? You got a new pump, they have been known to have bits of plastic from the manufacturing process; did you open it up and inspect for issues + flush it?


You've asked this before and I've given you the answer; loop order doesn't matter for temps.

I haven't done anything with the pump. I'm not sure how to get air out of my radiator, but my guess is tipping my case over. I did do a complete drain and refill.

There is a decent chance that you either have a decent amount of air in the rad, or you have some kind of obstruction in a block somewhere that is slowing your flow. Given that your temps aren't really that bad (and you also flashed the BIOS, which could have corrected temp sensor issues) you might not have any issues at all.

I'd start with getting air out of the lines as that would be the most logical place to start.

Okay, I can live with the temperatures. I have 3 applications displaying different temps. I have the BIOS showing insane idle temps, I have Coretemp, and I have MSI Control Center 2. Is MSI Control a good app? It seems to show temps 1c lower than Coretemp. Oh, and to show temps further, I hit 71c on load 5GHz @ 1.43v.

Your temps just about right for this set up,here is 5.0 after 1 hour P95;

and 5.1 ambient 75F;

I put the side panel of my case back on. HORRIBLE TEMPERATURES!!!! Is on XSPC RS240 enough to cool an Intel 2500K OC'd to 5GHz? My temps go past 71c as I said before. I'm thinking of adding a second radiator now.

What is your current setup? There is no way you should be seeing 71C on watercooling; something isn't right.

I replaced the thermal paste today, now it's 74c.

What info on my setup you want?

Water loop, order, pics if you have any.

Why did you replace thermal paste if you just built this loop and installed the block recently?

If I recall, didn't you just get the Rasa kit? Why did you change and go with the 655/D5?

I had some thermal paste on the CPU when I first installed my RASA kit a month ago. Today I changed my thermal paste hoping the temps would drop. I changed my pump because the RASA one was rattling (annoying). After this change and a loop refill my temps were sky high like now. Here is my setup: http://img703.imageshack.us/i/dscf0164el.jpg/
That black thing in the top tubing is my t-line.

The Rasa pump was making noise; did you contact them about a replacement?

Replacing thermal paste rarely makes much difference...usually only 1-2C at most unless you did it very wrong to begin with.

Are you running a res in that setup, or only a T-line? What is your loop order...it won't matter on temps, but it would help to see how your tubing is routed in your pics.

what are you talking about ?,71C @5.0Ghz 1.44V is normal
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/914262-official-san...


@humanage...." Oh, and to show temps further, I hit 71c on load 5GHz @ 1.43v."..what do you expect >???
if you don't like the temps ,you can increase your RAD face,get better TIM,reseat your CPU
EDIT;you have to bleed your system properly,T-line is PITA,flip the exhaust fan ..make it intake,your pump is twisted ,you may be getting air packets in it...,etc

Hmm...it seemed like even that was hot, but if you are running 1.44v @5.0 then I can see why. However...

Since OP is seeing some oddities with his WC loop, why not revert to stock speeds until you get the loop figured out? I haven't messed with the 2600's or know anyone who does...but...like any step in troubleshooting, if you are having issues with your setup, remove all variables to address one at a time. If OP thinks he has an issue with the water loop (debatable) then he should drop to stock speeds and see what temps he is getting and go from there. It's hard to address issues when it could be more than one cause to the same problem.

OP- what load temps were you seeing with the Rasa kit before you went to the 655/D5?

Okay, I'll flip the exhaust rear fan. What do you mean my pump is twisted? I do hear water splashing in my D5 when it is on the highest speed.

I was seeing a few (2-3c) lower temps.

You hear water splashing=air in your RAD ..bleed your sys.,you want the pump intact (flat) to avoid air pockets


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I don't understand, I hear water in the pump, not the rad. The picture is confusing, so I should keep the pump even with the drive bays, not slightly tipped?

no ,you don't hear water in your pump dude ..your system have to be bleed =get the air out before you ruin your pump,
" so I should keep the pump even with the drive bays, not slightly tipped?"..yes, 90 DEG (intake/outlet),there is 2 holes in the base

Okay, after I get all of the water out of my loop(computer off of course), How do I make sure no air is in when I put in liquid again? Especially the pump?

Do you have a res? This is the easiest way...and also why I asked what your loop flow order was to determine the best way to bleed your loop. There are many places to find info on how to fill and bleed a loop:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/843600-how-setup-install-water-cooling-setup.html#post10987905

You need to supply a constant supply of water as you switch your pump on and off (jumpered PSU) so that you aren't pulling water into the loop as you fill. This is where a reservoir or a T-line works well...as long as you can keep up with the pump as it pushed the water. It can be a tedious process...especially if you aren't as familiar with it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=777JcqPVgLU

Nice vid...good choice.

Thanks for helping guys!

Good luck, and be patient. There is a lot to learn on your first loop, so don't rush anything...take your time. If you aren't sure, Google it...you'd be surprised how much is on the web on this seemingly strange cooling concept. Also, check out the stickies and info threads...there are TONS of them out there...as well as several linked in this thread as well.

I just re-made my loop. I changed the thermal paste (kinda screwed up yesterday), and the following:
My new loop:http://img52.imageshack.us/i/dscf0196v.jpg/
My Stock (non-OC) temps:http://img823.imageshack.us/i/33ghzbubbles.png/
My 5GHz temps: http://img196.imageshack.us/i/5ghzbubbles.png/
These temps are still with the foam in my loop (air bubbles). I'll post newer temps later.

Your idle temps seem pretty good now...what are they at load? You shouldn't see a tremendous spike (hopefully)...they certainly shouldn't double. How long was that screenshot from case startup? Did the coolant reach working temps, or still cold from boot?

Are you running a reservoir or not? If only a T-line, it might take a little longer to bleed air, but it's still possible. The small air bubbles should be negligible on temps; its the big ones that get trapped in your rad or your pump you should worry about.

I think this the best you will get with dual RAD

^Possibly. It should be good for the chip he's running; the 2600's supposedly run cooler than the older i5's. I'm just curious how long the loop was running when he snapped that screenshot; if it just booted, the water was still cold. If he had let it run for 20-30 mins, he'd be sure it was at saturation for idle load/ambient temps.

Curious to see load temps as well. Maybe this issue has been taken care of if his load temps are better.

Those pics are cold boot. I don't have a reservoir. My temps after about 1 1/2 hours on 3.3GHz are 26-77c idle, and 47-49c load. As the amount of air in my plugged t-line increases, my temps decrease. I still have hope for lower temps! Once the bubbles in my loop are in the t-line, I'll fill the t-line with distilled water, and move around my case to see if there is any invisible air (in the pump, block, or radiator).

@OP what type of TIM, ambient temp,any air obstruction on top exhaust ?
as mention before ..you will benefit from cheap 40 $ res
EDIT;you have to tilt your case to the side/back,..for the big bubbles to move out,make sure you connect your block correctly (inlet/outlet)

My house's temperature is about 72f The only obstruction for the Radiator is plastic mesh on top of my NZXT Phantom. I'm not short of money, so where exactly would I be able to mount a reservoir in my current setup? I'd like something from NCIX, as they have good shipping, and a pricematch system. NCIX's reservoirs: http://ncix.com/products/index.php?minorcatid=1165&subm...
What would a reservoir do to lower temperatures? Keep pressure stable?

there is a bunch of different reservoirs for you pump..bay,free standing ,..
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsacd5tarefo.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsacdu5refor1.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12498/ex-res-255/Dang...
http://www.overclockers.com/water-cooling-reservoir-the...

the fastest way to improve your temp is more RAD/fresh cold air pumping through

I ran Intel Burn Test on max @5GHz and got up to 81c: http://img220.imageshack.us/i/5ghz80c.png/
I decided to take ortoklaz's advice and look for a good rad.
I'd prefer NCIX as their shipping is cheap (I live in their area) and I have a gift card.
Their selection: http://ncix.com/products/index.php?minorcatid=1165&subm...
This is the back of my case: http://img12.imageshack.us/i/dscf0197ig.jpg/
What sort of monstrosity can I mount there?
I found this article showing the results of a second radiator: http://www.techreaction.net/2010/03/11/single-vs-dual-3...
How much do you think my 5GHz temps will drop from the current 81c at load?

I found this Swiftech dual 120mm radiator: http://ncix.com/products/?sku=20089&vpn=MCR220-QP-K&man...

that's the best bang for you buck,I was looking at your case (not the best one for LC),you got few choices ...the best one would be 280 RAD on top and dual on back (this are not cheap) or one more dual like you mention,
note:the holes won't line up (use longer nylon risers from local hardware store or rad box)
http://www.overclock.net/amd-build-logs/846598-amd-nzxt...
remember; you temps will drop 6~10C..with addition of this rad and you want good supply of air for the top one (200MM side fan is a must),use non curing TIM
good luck

I stuck a 200m on the side of my phantom today actually. So, in the first option, are you suggesting dual 240 rads on the back?

I think he is suggesting a 2x120 or a 2x140 rad...dual meaning that. I agree this would help you out...Still seems very odd that you are getting those temps on a CPU only loop with a 2x120 rad. What were your stock CPU load temps like? Did you check to see what those were before you overclocked?

On stock, I have different load temps on different cores. I have MAX 44c, 45c, 50c, 43c.
My idle temps are MINIMUM 28c, 25c, 31c, 26c. These are at non-OC.

Those seem pretty normal...it's hard to think that OC would have that large of temp impact.

280 - link above (2x140MM),your case should take this RAD,if not MCR220 will do..look in my member conf. i have 240 on the back,switching pumps in your case won't make that much difference ,you can use the one that came with the kit (RES/pump combo)
Improve fresh air supply to your top RAD +one more RAD with MX-2,4 and you will back in the game

take off top cover and see if that will improve your temps