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First forray into liquid

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March 16, 2011 9:16:23 PM

Hi guys,

I've been reading these forums for a while now, and I can usually find what I'm looking for that way, but this one I can't really figure out on my own. I have 3 MSI reference 6950's unlocked into 6970's and with the terrible stock cooler that AMD saw fit to use they get HOT and LOUD. As I am sitting here they are all between 41C-61C with the fans at 45%. The way I see it I need to "take the plunge" so to speak and go to liquid, but I don't have a clue on God's green earth as to how to go about do that. I'm an engineer by training so the technical part of actually doing it I'll be fine at, but I don't know what are the best water blocks or radiators or pumps or even what all exactly I will need.

Here is my current setup (the MOBO and CPU will be swapped out for an AMD FX-8130P and a 990FX Crosshair V extreme set the day they come out)

3x MSI reference 6950's Unlocked into 6970's at 1GHz
4x2GB DDR3 1333 Patriot sector 5
2x 500GB Momentus XTs in Icy Docks in RAID 0
Hitachi Deskstar 2TB 7200RPM
Creative soundblaster X-FI Titanium Fatl1ty Pro
ASRockj (M3A785GXH/128M) Socket AM3/ AMD 785G/ 3-Way CrossFireX/ A&V&GbE/ ATX Motherboard with all the heatsinks replaced with low profile fansinks
AMD 1055t @ 3.93GHz Under a Hyper 212 plus with zalman thermal grease
HP 12060i DVDRAM (Not that that matters)
Corsair HX850W
Cooler Master HAF932 with just stock fans
(I will be adding a small SATA 6B/s SSD with a sandforce controller when I get the new board and putting it in an icy dock as well)
Then I have the standard junk like gaming keyboard, mouse, gamepad, controller, speakers, headset, printer. I run eyefinity too if that matters.

I'd like to keep my case if at all possible, I think I may need a second PSU for the cooling system and my case supports 2 PSUs. I'd rather do 2 PSUs than buy a new main one since I run thourgh a pair of UPSes and I'll just get another one for the 2nd PSU and UPses for 1200w-1500w PSUs are 1.5k while 850w ones are $130.

The real question is what do I need? Do I need to run a dual loop? Can I buy a pair of kits? What water blocks do I need and which are the best for your money? What liquid should I run? How many radiators should I have? Do I need a new case to shove this all in? And will I need a new PSU just for the cooling system? What pumps should I get? What fans should I get? I'm clueless as to what I should buy, so help me out please. I know this is going to cost money is an object, but I'm will to spend enough that I don't get junk. This is the last time in my life I will have both the time and the money to build a top of the live gaming PC and I want to do it right.

Thanks alot guys. This forum has been great to read.

More about : forray liquid

March 16, 2011 10:52:05 PM

Firstly, if you haven't seen this before, here's a thread with gobs of good information.

Trying to tackle a few of your questions:

You can run a dual loop if you want, from a performance standpoint there is negligible difference. You can read up for yourself here at Xtreme Systems.

Getting a good CPU block is a matter of persona preference since they all have very similar performance characteristics. Skinnee Labs did a great roundup of the currently available blocks. You can read the review and see the results here.

I would really recommend full-cover GPU blocks in your case when using a Trifire setup. These blocks have the major advantage that they can be daisy-chained with minimal effort. Speaking from experience, getting two GPU blocks into your loop when using blocks not designed with it in mind can be a challenge.

You want to run distilled water as your coolant. Stay away from dies as they have a nasty habit of falling out of solution and gunking up blocks. The only additives you need are a pure silver killcoil or some PTNuke Biocide. If you want colors buy colored tubing.

Ther rule of thumb for radiators is to have 1.5 to 2 120mm equivalent radiator spaces per major heat sources so you don't have to run the very loud fans to keep temperatures under control. It's not uncommon for those cooling a CPU and two GPUs in a loop to use a pair of 360 (120x3) radiators or equivalent surface area to get the job done.

The most popular fans for use on radiators tend to be the Yate Loons or the Scythe Gentle Typhoons.


Those are some very generic responses for some very generic questions. I recommend that you take an evening or two to cruise though all the info in my first link. You've got quite a project planned and you're right you definitely want to do it properly.
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March 16, 2011 11:49:57 PM

+1 to d0gr0ck.. visit xtremesystems and their watercooling section. WEALTH of info there..

you probably don't need another PSU to run your loop. get a laing d5 vario and that will pump water through your entire loop.

CPU block: All modern cpu blocks are pretty similar in performance. EK HF seems to be a popular choice. I run a Swiftech Apogee XT

GPU blocks: Get full covers like d0gr0ck said. Waterblocks also seem to be fairly consistent in performance. A lot of companies make full cover blocks, and FULL COVER is something you'd want. Look at all offerings from EK, Danger Den (DD), Koolance, etc.

Reservoir: Should get one to make bleeding your loop easier. If you're short on cash, you can run a T-line but with 3 6950's I don't think money is an issue with you. Swiftech micro-res v2 will be fine. If you care about aesthetics, you can research more into bay reservoirs or reservoirs made by skinnee or xspc and the lot

Pump: Laing D5. This thing is a beast! Should run your entire loop. Other resellers have different names for this same thing. Ie. i have the swiftech mcp655 and it is a rebranded laing d5. (There are two version. the Vario allows you to control pump speed from 1-5. Non vario version comes clocked in at the "4" speed.)

Fans: Scythe Gentle Typhoons ftw. hands down one of the better fans (if not the best). I've got the 1450rpm variant they are silent! (Loudest fan in my system is the XFX PSU which is supposed to be on the better side but is garbage imo) You should run the 1800 rpm version and add a fan controller as needed.

Radiators: This is something you're gonna have to research over at xtremesystems. I only have a 120.2 for my cpu. with 3 gpu's and 1 cpu you're gonna want more rads. Stay with 120mm sized rads. Depending on your needs, you may want to look at different radiators.

Coolant: Distilled water with silver kill coil or a couple drops of pt. nuke as d0gr0ck said. DO NOT use dyes or "special" coolants. They clunk and you'll find your loops a mess when it comes to clean time. (or it'll FORCE you to clean way sooner)

Tubing: My favorite is primoflex. others like other types such as tygon

Tube size: as long as you dont need tubing that is super thin, tubing size doesnt really matter. negligable difference. Get what you want. Get extra just in case you mess up on cutting it.

Fittings: you can use barbs or compression fittings. Make sure you get metal clamps (not the plastic ones) if you use barbs. Compression fittings look nice and are pretty easy to use but cost much more as well. If getting compression fittings MAKE SURE the ID and OD are the SAME as your tubing or else you will LEAK! (ID = inner diamter, OD = outer diameter) If you get barbs, you just need to match the ID of the tubing.

You may want a fillport but it is not necessary. Drain port also.

Again, do your research and head on over to xtremesystems or other watercooling forums if we cant help you here!

Good luck, have fun!
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Related resources
a c 330 K Overclocking
March 16, 2011 11:59:33 PM

Good rule of thumb is 1.5x 120mm radiator space per CPU or GPU (bare minimum); 2x120 per CPU/GPU recommended. 140mm rads are fine with 1-1.5x per CPU/GPU in most cases.

You have a lot to research, but it's worth it if you are willing to put in the hours, initial investment and attention to detail.

I have a lot of info linked in my signature; some might be what d0gr0ck linked above.

MCP655 = Laing D5
MCP350/3550/35x = Laing DDC; diff revisions.

The MCP35x is more powerful than the 655/D5 and the same size as the 355. Any of these pumps are well equipped to run a loop like this. In fact, the MCP350/355/35x have more head pressure than the 655/D5 which is important in multi-block loops. I run the 655 myself...going strong for about 5 years. Before that, I had a MCP350.

There are many, many 'where do I start' threads linked below which should get you up to speed so we can begin speaking in terminology and you soak up and grasp all the goodies you'll need for this adventure.
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a b K Overclocking
March 17, 2011 1:59:15 AM

If you have engineering background you will find out really quick that liquid cooling is very simple and straightforward
First of all you have to decide if you want your system to be quite or you just don't care,this will allow you to pick the right RAD's/fans,etc
next would be total heat load from all your components (CPU+GPU's..around 800W in your situation-gave it or take ,do the math)

here is a table of most common radiators,it will show you the ability of heat dissipation
for each RAD and fan to be used ,the best bat is to stay below 10ยบ Delta
http://skinneelabs.com/triple-radiator-comparison-v2/4/
now.. dual or single loop ? I like single but it's your call here (remember two loops=two pumps,more fittings, and few more feet of tubing )
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=25...
Fans..the best bet are Scythe Gentle Typhoon:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/120mmfans.html
PSU-got the filing Corsair HX850W won't be enough (specially with two pumps)
Water blocks..;
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=26...
http://skinneelabs.com/i7-blocks-2/2/
Liquid cooling is great hobby ,you going to love it
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 17, 2011 1:30:54 PM

:)  I thought it was in there, but added for good measure.

Beat me to the punch, ortoklaz/d0gr0ck.

However...it is permanently (temporarily?) cemented in all history by being linked in my sig.
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March 17, 2011 4:40:52 PM

Thanks guys! I am using around 825w at max draw at full OC and idle at about 225w but the PSU is rated at 850w continuous. I'm more concerned about overloading an 850w UPS so for redundancy's sake I may pick up an HX650w for like 80 bucks and run HDDs the DVDRAM the fans and the liquid off of it. IN my HAF 932 I only have two places ready to bolt rads, and I have room for a 140mm and a 360mm (I think if otherwise I'd love to know.) I'll be putting other stuff in drive bays b/c I have a dog and a cat I don't want things outside the case also that make's LAN parties more difficult when I have to worry about external stuff hanging out. If I only can put those two rads will it work? And is the second PSU a good idea?

Thanks again!
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 17, 2011 4:54:20 PM

I have both of my rads on the side of my case...and I have 3 dogs and take it to LANs. However, everyone has their preference. You can mount rads to the back 120mm fan with a RadBox which offsets the rad from the case by using a box/frame mount.

To be honest about the PSU...if you are going to get another one...just get a single good one and you will be fine. There isn't a real reason you need to get another, but they do make some that can actually fit drive bays that are like 100-200w outputs. Even for the price of those, just get a good, solid-performing 1000w and call it a day.
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March 17, 2011 5:14:13 PM

The difference in price between a 1kw UPS and a 850w UPS is a thousand bucks from anyone I would trust. 850w is the max I can run. I can do 2 or I can keep running my current single.

What is this radbox?
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 17, 2011 5:20:55 PM

UPS or PSU? I'm saying PSU...power supply. My BFG 1200w was like $250.

Newegg.com has several 1000w PSU's for decent cost

But I understand what you are saying; your current UPS (backup power) isn't rated for the load of the 850w+ PSU (PC power supply).

Don't most UPS's give you the option to communicate via USB with the client PC? I've seen some, but not sure if the UPS itself can do it, or if you can find a 3rd party component to do this and allow a scripted shutdown on a power outage?

Sorry on my initial confusion.

Edit: Forgot to link the RadBox.
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March 17, 2011 5:27:20 PM

Yes it comes with a client, but the draw would be too heavy still. Electricity is kinda my thing, and if I'm idling then yes it's safe, but what if I'm gaming or doing what my boss thinks I'm doing with this beast and working? A straight shutdown isn't an option for me sometimes. I need those 50 minutes to finish a query or DB reconstruction.
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 17, 2011 5:28:21 PM

That Phobya is a beast...a 200mm rad. This would be perfect for cases with those big top exhaust fans that are 200mm+ as long as you got a decent fan to run it.

@richamery- I get what you are saying here. How would you power the auxiliary power suppy...simply straight to the outlet/surge strip? That would be an option...let me look around a few mins...might be able to find something.
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March 17, 2011 5:33:30 PM

rubix_1011 said:
That Phobya is a beast...a 200mm rad. This would be perfect for cases with those big top exhaust fans that are 200mm+ as long as you got a decent fan to run it.

@richamery- I get what you are saying here. How would you power the auxiliary power suppy...simply straight to the outlet/surge strip? That would be an option...let me look around a few mins...might be able to find something.



I'd run it to a 3rd UPS. I have one for the tower one for all the monitors and yada yada, and this would be a third. They all daisy chain in sequence through a dedicated system through the serial ports. They communicate to my system through a USB 2.0 hub.
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 17, 2011 5:39:59 PM

I've actually seen some power adapters that look like laptop power bricks that split into molex plugs...this would be a minimalist way to do it. Otherwise, if you want a 2nd power supply, you can get whatever you'd like...you'll need to get the ATX dual PSU cable to switch the auxiliary one on with the main power. This is an example of what I am thinking: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5637/cpa-167/Lian_Li_Dual_Power_Supply_Adapter_Cable.html?tl=g11c413s91. I'm sure there are less-expensive options somewhere...I just needed a quick reference.
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a b K Overclocking
March 17, 2011 5:41:25 PM

richaemry said:
Where are your HDDs? I have 3 right now and will have a 4th soon. And where is the rest of your cabling?


you can get stackable racks like AKASA or others and place them any ware or install one RAD externally
(you need two good RAD's for your set up )
or you can have one standing vertical

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March 17, 2011 10:27:55 PM

ortoklaz said:
you can get stackable racks like AKASA or others and place them any ware or install one RAD externally
(you need two good RAD's for your set up )
or you can have one standing vertical
]http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/2462/i6h860.jpg



How much room with there be for my PSU if I do that? I like that mounting system. How would I rig it?
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a b K Overclocking
March 17, 2011 11:00:14 PM

you have to measure (don't know what RAD is on your mind )..never had two PSU's in my case,as for mounting ..small 90Deg angles will do (two to the bottom/side) or some type of bracket
Edit; make sure your GPU's will clear,your best bet is 200MM in front and HDD rack right behind it;
http://www.techreaction.net/2010/11/28/blog-corsair-gra...
here are some racks,you can have your PSU on top of it and one more HDD in drive bay
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g43/c12/s852/list/p1/Ca...
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March 17, 2011 11:43:09 PM

ortoklaz said:
you have to measure (don't know what RAD is on your mind )..never had two PSU's in my case,as for mounting ..small 90Deg angles will do (two to the bottom/side) or some type of bracket
Edit; make sure your GPU's will clear,your best bet is 200MM in front and HDD rack right behind it;
http://www.techreaction.net/2010/11/28/blog-corsair-gra...
here are some racks,you can have your PSU on top of it and one more HDD in drive bay
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g43/c12/s852/list/p1/Ca...



I'm trying to avoid FAB work, I have a palsy in my right hand so my hands aren't steady enough to do that. I like the vertical setup that I saw in the picture a few posts ago. I've got room for a 140mm on the rear and hopefully if I can avoid putting another PSU in on the top then I have room for a 360mm there. If I can mount that vertical setup from a few pics ago I'm set, otherwise if I go with a 2nd PSU I'm going to place the 360 on top with the existing mounting holes in a cage if that is safe. I have this thing under a desk with about 10 inches or so of clearance. I also have another 140mm rad slot on the bottom but I was planning on putting the pump there.

Would that work?
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a b K Overclocking
March 18, 2011 12:30:23 AM

try the vertical set up ..360 , 220,140
this is the smallest 360
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/thtahipera15.html
this one may give you just enough clearance for GPU's
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcqupo2x.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10463/ex-rad-180/Blac...
all RAD's exhaust the air out and good side fan/s supplying fresh air
make the front exhaust-blowing through the HDD's

or 200MM on top (better exhaust and more room for PSU) and 140 on the back sucking in
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March 18, 2011 1:43:29 AM

What about converting the side fan(s) into either one masive rad setup or 2 smaller ones? then another one on the 140mm fan slot? Then putting the 2nd PSU (it's going to be necessary I just measured and I hit 865w in futuremark not bad for the PSU but really bad for the UPS so one one GPU cooling and CPU get to migrate to a new HX850w and UPS. I'll have to put slack in the line so I can get back in there later and I don't think I will have enough clearance to go push pull, but I think I could pull it off. I'm thinking res and pump in a couple drive bays too. Fan controller can come later.

Would I have enough clearance and are a 200*1mm rad and a 140*1mm rads going to be enough? I could of course drill holes into the side and mount the rad(s) in the side with boxes, and is that a better option? I'm leaning to yes since I could run push pull and then just grate them off so I don't have issues.
Would a single big 200*1mm rad be better or would a pair of 120*2mm rads be better? And would that setup offer enough cooling? I'd be bringing in from the top (but only a single 120mm B/C of the PSU) from the front and could fit some really small ones right above the mobo if I had too (Ive seen it done). One other option is the virtical mount for a 120*2 rad and then the 2 120*2 however they happen to fit.
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a b K Overclocking
March 18, 2011 2:28:14 AM

I give you some nice options (you need equivalent of 2x360 it's up to you how you want to cut it),that second PSU is like...lost for worlds here..you don't want to have external rad,don't want to mod ,but you want to hang butch of small RAD's on the side door in push pull conf...you making this more complicated than it should be
Here is another option which will cost you less ,it's very quite ,equivalent of 2x360
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhxRndIWFus&NR=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4rDF69S9mk
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March 18, 2011 3:03:21 AM

ortoklaz said:
I give you some nice options (you need equivalent of 2x360 it's up to you how you want to cut it),that second PSU is like...lost for worlds here..you don't want to have external rad,don't want to mod ,but you want to hang butch of small RAD's on the side door in push pull conf...you making this more complicated than it should be
Here is another option which will cost you less ,it's very quite ,equivalent of 2x360
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhxRndIWFus&NR=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4rDF69S9mk


How easy would it be to mount something like that? I just drill 4 holes and run the loop to it? I can get on board with that kid of setup.
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March 18, 2011 4:32:32 AM

Alright I just measured the wattage of the system proper and in Heaven I peak at 671w after 2 hours and in Futuremark 11 I peak at 605w while doing both with prime 95 I get 686w and 632w peak respectively. I think I just ruled out the need for another PSU even if I watercool and if somehow Bulldozer Zambezi winds up drawing more power. 360 in the top 140 on the back and 240 by the rack. I'm safe with that right? I can piece that together for under 900US. Is that a good budget?
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a b K Overclocking
March 18, 2011 6:14:11 AM

yes you will be fine ,you can start with 360+220/240 if that won't be enough add 140 later
get Scythe Gentle Typhoons 1850RPM or Yate Loons ,30w per channel fan controller,good pump,1/2 barbs,7/16 tubing,blocks..take your time don't rush ,try to buy most of the stuff from 1~2 e retailers ,save on shipping ,there is few good places like JabTech,Sidwinder,FrozenCpu,etc

http://www.jab-tech.com/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-D1225C12B...
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpu1.html
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 18, 2011 12:51:14 PM

I have my rads mounted on the side of my case...simple setup. I just made some spacers (or if you can find some at the hardware store, bonus) and find the correct thread screws and length+washers etc. and mark out your holes. It can look very clean if you take your time and do it right. If that's an option you'd consider, it works.

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March 19, 2011 7:41:04 AM

Sounds good guys. What fittings and whatnot do you recommend? I'd like no drip and I'm assuming I'll use plumber's tape.

I'm going to go with 3 EK acetyl blocks with EKFC links in 3 way parallel, an EK acetyl CPU block, a black ice 360mm rad and either a 140mm black ice or a 240mm black ice slim rad. Then yate loon fans push pull on the 360 and if I go with the 140mm I'll go push pull too the 240mm won't have room for push pull. I'm looking at commercial tubing of 1/2-3/4 from a friend of mine's shop and then I'm going to go with the XSPC dual bay pump/res combo with a Liang D5 in it, and two bottles of primochill ice since this is my first build and I don't like the idea of leaks killing parts.

Fittings? What should I get? I'd like compression for safety's sake what are decent and not to obscene? I'd also like to know about mounting kits. Do I just use the same screws I mount my fans with now? since I'm going to the exact same holes?
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a b K Overclocking
March 19, 2011 1:51:00 PM

The black ice 360 (think they like 30 FPI~fins per inch) are very dependant on the fan selection,you need powerful fans to get full advantage from them.. Just don't forget the ear plugs. They perform well with high flow fans but are very restrictive. They are also better dust filters than dust filters,push pull conf... sure will give you a bit of improvement but never as much as cold fresh air
"What fittings and whatnot do you recommend?"..barbs or compressions (3/8 or 1/2 ID)
tubing..7/16 for 1/2 barbs,compressions or barbs ,they all come with "O" rings (no need for tape)-you tighten them up with your hand only-don't use pliers,wrenches ,etc
as for primochill ice..get gallon of distiled water or deionized +PT Nuke or silver coil
http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/water-cooling/33772-wate...
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 19, 2011 7:27:46 PM

NOOOOOO...don't use any plumber's tape, teflon tape...etc. Not a good thing.

Compression fittings or barbs are fine as-is and will typically have an o-ring to help seal when threading the G1/4" fittings. If you are running 1/2" tubing, get 1/2" barbs...3/8"...same thing. Some people run 7/16" ID tubing with 1/2" barbs for a tight fit, but this isn't necessary...but it's possible if you use barbs and don't want to use hose clamps.
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March 20, 2011 6:09:52 AM

Okay. What brand and series of rads should I look at? I'm looking for cold --and SILENT. I want low CFM fans in push pull since I have room. A 140mm and a 360mm. 240mm just isn't going to fit in there with those massive GPUs (I measured.) I'm going to go with barbs since they are dirt cheap and clamps are fine by me. I'm not entering a looks contest, not that I want it to be ugly LOL.
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 21, 2011 1:23:11 AM

It depends on what you want to spend; Swiftech are fairly cheap and do well. Feser, Thermochill, XSPC and others are a little more expensive. Take a look at SkinneeLabs; he has some excellent write-ups on exactly what you are looking for.

SkinneeLabs Triple comparison
SkinneeLabs Radiators
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a b K Overclocking
March 21, 2011 2:24:33 AM

Oh good. Now there's more people who know WCing than rubix and conumdrum. Looks like you all have this handled then :) 

Nothing more to add. Just wanted to say good job to you guys.
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a b K Overclocking
March 21, 2011 2:40:21 AM

Shadow703793 said:
Oh good. Now there's more people who know WCing than rubix and conumdrum. Looks like you all have this handled then :) 

Nothing more to add. Just wanted to say good job to you guys.


there is always more to add..fire away :lol: 
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 21, 2011 12:35:37 PM

Hey look, Shadow has returned from...the shadows.

I'll be honest, we have a few more people with some good knowledge, but still the same old 'hey someone tell me what I should buy' questions when there are already 3 others active in the forum with the same info. :/ 

It's getting better; I'm trying to get new people to do a little more homework before they start asking questions that have been answered 1000x before.
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March 22, 2011 10:12:54 PM

rubix_1011 said:
Hey look, Shadow has returned from...the shadows.

I'll be honest, we have a few more people with some good knowledge, but still the same old 'hey someone tell me what I should buy' questions when there are already 3 others active in the forum with the same info. :/ 

It's getting better; I'm trying to get new people to do a little more homework before they start asking questions that have been answered 1000x before.



If it was as simple as doing research I would have done it. I just don't have anyone's brain to pick locally. You guys were nice enough to help me out, and thank you very much. I'm doing some crazy junk for my first WC setup. I haven't seen tri-fire WC walk throughs. I see 1-2 GPU setups and 10k 3-4 GPU setups. I don't have either, so I asked for some advice. It doesn't hurt anyone, and if you were going to be offended why bother answering? Does it take any time out of your life you don't give voluntarily? I'm not looking for someone else to do my work, I'd rather do it myself. I just wanted some advice.
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 23, 2011 12:35:05 AM

No, no...there are many people that come here looking for knowledge handouts...they don't even want to read...they simply post 'just tell me what to get', and that's it. Some have even been rude about it. Sorry if you felt this was aimed at you...not at all. This is but one of many forums to learn...there are many others with watercooling as an entire forum to itself with many, many folks who have done it for longer than I have.

Again...sorry...not directed at you. Hopefully this helped to clear up any misunderstandings. Glad to help you out and hopefully get your build figured out.
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March 23, 2011 3:45:01 AM

rubix_1011 said:
No, no...there are many people that come here looking for knowledge handouts...they don't even want to read...they simply post 'just tell me what to get', and that's it. Some have even been rude about it. Sorry if you felt this was aimed at you...not at all. This is but one of many forums to learn...there are many others with watercooling as an entire forum to itself with many, many folks who have done it for longer than I have.

Again...sorry...not directed at you. Hopefully this helped to clear up any misunderstandings. Glad to help you out and hopefully get your build figured out.



It's cool. You have been plenty helpful. I really just didn't know what was really necessary and what was superfluous. There are plenty of people who don't operate Google well enough to be on a gaming rig, but whaddya do? Thanks guys.

Those black ice stealth Rads are really getting some good price to performance reviews. You think they can hang?
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 23, 2011 11:43:44 AM

They are good, but the BIX rads typically run ~30 FPI and need some high-end fans to blow through them.

They can hang, but you might get annoyed with louder fans. Most people like the XSPC RS and RX rads (the RX's are thicker, better performing), Swiftech rads (I run dual MCR320's) or even EK and Feser rads. Feser will run you a little more cash, but are very, very good. There are supposedly some new radiators coming out from Thermalfins that look like they are the replacement for the Feser Admiral series that never came out last fall. I think Feser might still be working on them, and I haven't seen any updates from Thermalfins.

Thermalfins Rads
TFC Feser Corp. Admirals
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March 24, 2011 9:41:26 AM

The black ice stealth series is supposed to be for low CFM fans. Why would they be loud?
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March 25, 2011 4:51:51 AM

Achieves Black Ice Xtreme II level performance in stealth mode (low-noise/low-airflow conditions)

So what does this mean?
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a c 330 K Overclocking
March 25, 2011 12:15:18 PM

Low noise is debatable, depending on who you are. There isn't really a specific standard that applies to noise levels for fans or a PC build. To be honest, I have a couple of Scythe 2000rpm fans on the back of my case...they are the loudest things I have, and even then, they are quieter than a desk fan on low. If you are already gaming with speakers or headphones, you'll never hear the fans unless you are running some insane Delta fans. I run Gentle Typhoons on my rads and they are pretty quiet...but again...noise is different for different people. I don't run my WC game rig all the time, nor in my living room or bedroom...it sits in the office and only runs when I'm gaming, doing photo editing or doing some video/media work...and I have speakers/headphones on when any of that is taking place.
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