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First water cooling upgrade attempt

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April 20, 2011 10:41:02 PM

Hi folks
I have a i7 980 x running at 4.1ghz
Corsair 800 D
Asus Rampage III extreme mobo
6gb ram
EK CoolStream Radiator XT 360 mounted inside but at top of the case w/ 3 sharkoon fans on top
Proc has a EK Supreme LT CPU Waterblock
XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25" Reservoir
Swiftech Laing D5 Vario MCP655 12V DC Pump
NZXT Sentry 2 fan cotroller
All the drive bays are taking up so I only have space at the bottom of the case near the PSU & 1 bottom slot that as about 3.5mm of space.

I have a GTX 590 overclocked so its running hot and now want to water cool it.

I understand there are two options, running a seperate loop w/ pump, RAD and resevoir
Problem is I am realy limited to space as I dont want to start modding the case.

Someone suggested a XSPC 200 Bay Reservoir & Pump, Black Ice GT Stealth 240 Radiator & Water cooling block with accerories

or

adding the Waterblock to the card on the existing loop but not sure whats best or how to go about it.

Any suggestions as I am a complete noob at this but an enthusiast and really want to get stuck in.

Mickey G :o 
a b K Overclocking
April 20, 2011 11:06:18 PM

Hey Mikey,

You will most likely need another radiator if you want to cool multiple components. The rule of thumb is 240mm of rad space per component...

It is not neccessarily ideal to have a two loop system... running two pumps in serial would be the better bet. however i dont think you would need two pumps for a 2rad,gpu,cpu loop.

If space is an issue in your case, you may want to go with a slim rad, however i would not recommend black ice GT stealth, as they have a very high fin per inch... around 30, and to take advantage of this you need some very high CFM fans... A different slim rad like the swiftech quiet-power may server you better. It will have about the same performace as the black ice rad, and will not need expensive fans that are loud.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6571/ex-rad-126/Swift...

If you can fit a normal 2x120mm rad in your case i would recommend the EK coolstream 240 XT... This rad has a lower FPI (fin per inch) much like the swiftech mentioned above... however it will outperform the swiftech, as it is thicker and amount of radiator space is really the key component.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12369/ex-rad-198/EK_C...
April 20, 2011 11:33:27 PM

1909751,2,863628 said:


Hi Orangejuice
thanks for the quick reply, so all I need is another RAD (if the EK 240 XT)?

Of course I realise I'll also need the WaterBlock for the card but then this will be attached to the existing loop using the same pump and levels?

I also have a Hdav sound card which I could move up to higher PCI express slot. This would give me room to position the RAD on the lower top shelf of the case if I can mount it there.

What type of fans would you suggest? Since the RAD will be lying horizontal on the bottom shelf of the 800D, that leaves me 10mm gap from the shelf to the bottom of the card (not sure how much room I will need after applying the Water block but I believe the Water block will go on top of the card.

Should the fan push air up or down through the bottom out?


thanks
Related resources
a b K Overclocking
April 21, 2011 12:03:06 AM

The block for the GPU goes onto the same spot the stock cooler goes... Are you counting in the size of rad in that 10mm gap?

Some good fans are the Yate loon series...

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7558/fan-454/Yate_Loo...

Thats a good slim fan if you are pressed for space... The EK240 XT is a much thicker radiator... if you want to do a push/pull setup on your radiator you may want to go with the swiftech.

One set of slim fans will take up 20mm alone... if you want to do push pull thats already 40mm of space gone.

Do you know the dimensions of the area you have to work with?
a b K Overclocking
April 21, 2011 1:45:05 AM

@OP can you take a picture of the interior of the PC so wee can get better idea ?
you will have to add a really good 240 RAD on the bottom (exhaust to the bottom or side of the case)
a c 324 K Overclocking
April 21, 2011 2:01:08 AM

OP could get by (barely) with an XSPC RX360 or a TC PA 120.3...either way, he'd need a thick 360...not a skinny.

Oh...fans in push/pull. This is the only way I'd recommend that setup with that CPU/GPU. Thinking some 1800rpm fans on both sides.
a b K Overclocking
April 21, 2011 2:41:17 AM

rubix_1011 said:
OP could get by (barely) with an XSPC RX360 or a TC PA 120.3...either way, he'd need a thick 360...not a skinny.

Oh...fans in push/pull. This is the only way I'd recommend that setup with that CPU/GPU. Thinking some 1800rpm fans on both sides.

agree 360 would be the way to go ,..but he doesn't have room ,GTX 590 tops out - GPU power consumption = ~ 340W (TC PA 360@1800RPM will give you 600W heat load~10 DELTA -200=400[dual])
You mode the side of the case ..sucking cold air in for the bottom 240 (all single loop [360 top and 240 bottom]/GT's 1800 full throttle ) I would say ..he will be fine ,a bit audible tho

(980x@4.4=368W)+(gtx 590 full strees=340W)=710W

http://skinneelabs.com/assets/images/Radiators/ThermoCh...
or high FPI rad
http://skinneelabs.com/assets/images/Radiators/HWLabs/G...

EDIT; thick or not ..it doesn't mater ,you have to look @ heat dissipation,EK CoolStream XT 360 is not the best RAD tho
http://skinneelabs.com/assets/images/Radiators/EK/CS360...
April 21, 2011 7:19:25 AM

That video is almost the samething as the link I posted above. Either one of those would work great I think. It's what I plan on doing
April 21, 2011 8:13:28 AM

I was hoping I could add the RAD to the bottom of the case with out having to cut into it

Current - EK CoolStream XT 360 is at the top

The bottom shelf currently houses PSU and 2 hard drives (the hard drives can go)

I have attached pictures of the current set up, if you know anyway to ad a RAD without having to mod the case that would be perfiect

Uploaded with TurboImageHost.com][/urlExt]
a c 324 K Overclocking
April 21, 2011 2:41:02 PM

Without modding your case, you would be left with external mount.

By the way...why a BIX rad? I doubt that is what you want.
a c 324 K Overclocking
April 21, 2011 3:34:54 PM

^That's a clean looking 800D build. I like the 'hidden' 220 in the bottom.
a c 324 K Overclocking
April 21, 2011 4:12:39 PM

^That looks like a tight fit. Clean looking, but he'll need some good air vents in the bottom and on top where the fans are blocked. Also needs to address tubing routes...likely drilling some holes. Would be nice to see what he comes up with, though. I like the HDD drive bays that fit 5.25 bays (I have one) and then getting rid of the HDD cage. Most people typically only use 1-2 5.25 drive bays anyway, leaving a gaping void of plastic panels that could be used for HDDs and in turn allowing you to create space elsewhere.
a b K Overclocking
April 21, 2011 4:17:33 PM

smaller TC TA 360 would be a better choice ..the 360 on top will get massive amount of hot air=fail
May 8, 2011 12:30:54 PM

Ok fellas, it went quite for a while but here is what i might have come up with, thanks for the links and all suggestions to date.

I found a Koolance radiator mount which i can use instead of modding the case (preffered method). The mount can go on the rear of the 800D.

This means I can get a 3 x 120 or a 2 x 120, not sure what would be better?

So EK coolstream 360 plus one of the above to run OC GTX 590 and OC i7 980

Quesiton would be depending on if I use a double or triple on the rear do I set it up as an intake - (Push) blow air thru RAD into case from Rear mount, then fans at the bottom pushing air up, and top mounted radiator (Pull)?

or

Rear rad on Pull so Air direction is still out from case, top RAD on Pull and bottom fans pushing air up?

If I can figure this out, i plan on getting final bits this week, start the build and then share pics showing the fruit of you wise advice :pt1cable: 
a b K Overclocking
May 8, 2011 8:37:46 PM

if this is the DAD mount you are talking about ..do a push (fresh air through =>case),triple is always better than dual
May 8, 2011 10:29:20 PM

its the Koolance Mounting Bracket with Quick Release

Ok then so 2 x 360 RADs?

With bracket I can mount the 1st 360 RAD at its highest point outside the rear of case, set it up as push so the fans push air through the RAD into the case => 2nd 360 RAD Inside the case at the top = pull => fans at bottom of the case pushing air up


that should do it

thanks
a c 324 K Overclocking
May 9, 2011 2:24:10 PM

Koolance rad mount/bracket is pricey, but looks good. Never used one, but they work. The RadBox is cheaper (~$20) but it isn't adjustable like that Koolance one.

I think you are definitely on the right track here. Post some pics when you get the loop upgraded...curious to see how it turns out.
May 15, 2011 6:27:31 PM

Lost my password, blooming SSD went tits up, so posting pics of build here using spare PC

Hi folks,
i managed to finish build with no leaks!

I have one problem and thats with the Air Flow.

I was so keen on making sure there where no leaks that I didnt pay attention to the fan set up.

I used the Koolance mount for the Rear Rad (I hope I have the fans facing the correct way?)

1 The rear fans on the rear of the XSPC 360 RAD are pushing air into the Rad in the direction of the case (Scythe Gentel Typhoon 1850)
2 At the moment there is no fan on rear of case to push additional air in (see circle)
3 The top Rad EK Coolstream 360 is on Pull - Fans on top of Rad pulling air out (Scythe Gentel Typhoon 1850)
4 1 Noise Blocker (Black) PK3 1450 at bottom of the case pushing Air up into the Case
5 1 Noise Blocker Pk3 (Black) 1450 on the side of case (on top of silent eagle - white fan) pushing Air onto the Hard Drive bay (flow goes in then out of rear of case)
6 1 Silent Eagle 2000 (white) on side of case pushing Air onto lower Hard Drive bay (flow goes in then out of rear of case)

Problem
with the case open I get so much cold air my hands are freezing, I can feel cold Air coming out of top of case
when I put the side panel back and close the case, I start to feel warm air coming out of top of case

I can fit a 85mm on the Exhaust so that it pushes cool air into the case as I think the reason why the case gets warmer when I close it is because there isnt enough cool air coming inside?

I havent ran Prime yet until I am sure of the Air flow, then I'll tidy up the wires and stress test, but I would like to be able to close the case without it getting hot.

any suggestions?

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May 15, 2011 11:34:54 PM

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Forgot to add
Loop using XSPC Dual Bay Res for Laing 5 > CPU> EK 360 GT RAD > GPU > XSPC 360 > Res
a b K Overclocking
May 16, 2011 1:02:05 AM

Looks good Mr.
you killing me with that tube wire (completely unnecessary),cable management could be improved,how you like your temps and when are you going to OC this chip ?
the direction of the fans are right ,should add 120MM instead "85MM"? on the back and two more 120MM on the bottom/divider ,looks like you ready for nice OC and SLI
a c 324 K Overclocking
May 16, 2011 12:56:01 PM

Ortoklaz- You are meaning the coil-overs...the anti-kink coils, correct?

Yeah, with most good tubing, you don't need those...only when running cheap hardware store vinyl tubing. There are other ways to fix tight bend kinks with good tubing (any tubing, really) to look more professional.

Nice build OP- looks good! Might want to take some time and get those fan wires bundled so you don't get one caught and pulled out (back rad fans). Otherwise, very clean build. :D 
May 16, 2011 2:17:36 PM

yeah I agree with the kink coils, got rid of them but left a short run at the top where the tubes go out the back to the rear RAD.

Will fix cable managment next time, didnt realise I had so much tubing but wanted to allow room to be able to pul Res out and set pump, you have to pull it out to get to the dial.

Will defo tidy up the wires when the new fan arrives.

The Koolance mount takes up the 120mm slot at rear of case so can only fit in an 85mm fan, the one on orders is a 200 RPM, no more room for additional fans at the bottom but the Noise Blocker is a 1450 RPM.

OC CPU to 4Ghz and also GPU temps below - ran Prime 95 for 35mins I hear thats sufficent for a normal test, didnt get any mad fluctuations or errors, I think the temps are normal I know some peeps get lower but if I am right those are acceptable levels.

Thanks for all the suggestions and guidance, next project SLi but with current card I should be ok for awhile.

Top draw :bounce: 

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July 22, 2011 10:36:18 PM

This modding stuff can get addictive, I was wondering if I could add a 2nd GTX 590 to this single loop wihtout having much of an increase in my temps?

So back on the forum seeking your expert advice; since you all did a stella job in guiding my the first time
here is my current spec and pics

Intel 17 980x OC to 4.2
EK-Supreme HF - Full Nickel
Asus Rampage III Extreme
Corsair 1000 w PSU (I think I need to upgrade to 1200w)
OCZ RevoDrive X2 240GB PCI-Express Internal Solid State Drive
3 x Dell u2410 (surrond vision)
1 x EK Coolstream 360 Radiator
1 x XSPC RX 360 Radiator
Tygon R3603 7/16" ID - 5/8" OD (11-16mm) Tubing
XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25" Reservoir for Laing D5
Swiftech Laing D5 Vario MCP655 12V DC Pump
EVGA 590 GTX Hydro Copper x 2

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Would be great if I could get away with sing loop?
Also checked PSU spec the calculator says minimum should be 986W and recommended is 1018 but again hoping I could get by with 1000w
July 22, 2011 10:45:50 PM

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!