Hopefully somebody can help me out with this. I have the EX58-UD3R and I can't get it to post. I just bought it and all the other components to build a new rig. Core i7 920 2.66 ghz, gigabyte, HD5770, 700 watt, OCZ stealth xtreme power supply, 3x1 gig of OCZ 1366 memory, LG sata dvd burner and 750 gig WD sata drive.
I got everything installed and when i power on the system all the LEDs and cans come on (both in the case and on the cpu and vid card) but they just spin at full speed and never i get nothing on screen. Tried with the old card which i just upgraded from and still no video and not post.
Can anybody if they have had the same issue with the board and if so how I can fix it. Thanks for the help.
Getting a "black screen" on a new build is very common. In fact, we have a sticky in the Homebuilt Systems forum for troubleshooting this exact problem. #2 on the checklist is by far the most common mistake.
None of those things on the list are the problem. the cpu has a 8 pin connector and i'm using the 8 pin power connection. there was no cover over over any part of it. I', gonna check to see if the ram i bought was is suported but other than that i don'w know what to do. the mobo is ok I think because all the fans and lights come on when powering on.
Time for a 'strip-down'; you should never build a new machine by just 'dumping all the parts' into the case - you should always 'breadboard' first, board on a non-conductive flat surface, to check the main components (RAM, CPU, MOBO, VidCard) before it's a major PITA to work on or fix anything!
Mind you, there are two ways to do this: you can do it either in or out of the case. The advantages and drawbacks:in the case is easier and faster, but will not find case-related problems, like shorts from extra, mispositioned standoffs, or ground plane problems; out of the case takes longer, and you may run into 'reach' problems - power supply cables and front panel power switch headers may not be long enough; for the power supply, it's usually just a matter of removing four screws to temorarily relocate it; for the power switch, you can just do this (carefully):
You only need to short the pins momentarily - that's all the power switch does...Out of the case also affords you an easy opportunity to 'flip' the board to check your heatsink/fan attachment setup, to be sure all the pins are fully seated, locked, and not cracked... If you do the out of the case, you need to lay the board on a non-conductive surface: the box the MOBO came in is ideal; but - the foam pad it came with, and the bag it was in are not - being 'antistat', they are somewhat conductive, and may induce problems...
Another item worth mention at this point is case speakers: if you haven't got one - get one! http://www.cwc-group.com/casp.html
A lot of people operate under the misaprehension that the 'diagnostic beeps' should come through the speakers attached to their sound-card/chip - not so! Your three hundred dollar Altec-Lansings won't do you any good here - you have to have a case speaker attached to the front panel header, and, often by this point, it's the only diagnostic info you'll have to go on...
The standard 'strip-down':
Power down at PSU switch
CPU and heatsink/fan (check carefully that the fan retaining pins are fully inserted, completely locked, and not cracked)
one stick of RAM, in slot closest to CPU
video card and monitor connector (if more than one PCIe slot, again, in slot closest to CPU)
all power plugs - 20+4 or 24, 2x2 or 2x4 ATX power, graphics card power
case speaker and power switch connectors
keyboard (don't need a mouse at this point)
place jumper on RST_CMOS pins
remove jumper from RST_CMOS pins
power up at PSU switch
power up by depressing case power switch (or shorting the 'power' pins...)
If you get video, enter BIOS with <DEL> (may need a <TAB> to get to POST screen, if 'splash' screen is enabled)
Select and execute "Load Optimized Defaults" - save and exit, reboot
reinsert other components, one at a time, testing each time after addition...