New watercooling build

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warakomd

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Will be cooling:
i7-2600k ( high oc )
GTX 570 x2 ( high oc )

I have ~600-700$. I'm new to the game but I've been reading a lot. I'm going to be purchasing some items soon and i want to know what some experienced users would do with 600$ for a water cooling build. This is what i have in mind:

My case is a MM u2-ufo http://www.mountainmods.com/u2ufo-mirror-black-powder-coat-original-top-p-77.html

-1/2 ID tubing

-RAD:
3x120 rad for cpu??
3x120 rad for dual GPUs??

6 medium speed yate loons per rad. for a push/pull setup

-Pump:
Will i need two pumps? If so, what would be sufficient.

-CPU + GPU waterblocks:
EK-Supreme HF for cpu http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/ek-supreme-hf-nickel.html
EK-FC580 GTX+http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/review/product/list/id/737/category/41/

-I also plan on using Koolance quick disconnects with compression fittings where needed.

Please fill in the blanks for me. I want the best.


Edit:

Thank you everyone who gave me your two cents.
 
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ortoklaz
looks solid , i just feel you should spend few afternoons reading LC related stickies ,don't rush ,take your time ,make it easier on yourself
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warakomd

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I should have clarified myself better.

I want to have on each radiator 6 fans for maximum performance. So that would be a total of 12 fans (there will be additional case fans for heat exhaust on the case).

I need an example of a good solid pump i should use. I really don't know of any.

EDIT:

I have an additional question. Would it be fine for me to mount (all on the inside) Fan->Rad->Fan if i had a long enough screw? I'm pretty sure i've seen some cases where people have done this, but i am not sure. Could this put too much stress on the outermost fans?
 
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orangejuice789

orangejuice789

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Definitely agree w/ ortoklaz on the MCP35x pump. Gets great reviews and outperforms competition on skinneelabs review.

@ortoklaz can you provie a link to GT fans?

Edit: With the radiators i know of you cannot run a screw through the radiator if that is what you are talking about? I believe you will have to mount each side of fans seperately... You can use a screw that goes case>fan>rad then another screw that goes rad<fan... "<" being the direction the screw faces.

As long as you use all of the available mounting holes (with 3 fans there should be 12) you will not have a problem with stress on the fans.
 
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warakomd

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what are your thoughts on this radiator: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsrx3xrare2.html
is there another radiator that is cheaper but offers similar performance?

I'm mainly about performance but i like my aesthetics also. This fan http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233052 would make my case appear a lot more pleasing. If i were to use them, instead of GT or Loons, would it hinder my performance?

Also is it mandatory, or just convenient, to place the res. on top of the pump? I have another res. in mind that i would like to use http://www.swiftech.com/mcresmicrorev2reservoir.aspx
 
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ortoklaz

ortoklaz

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XSPC series rads are great (8 FPI) for slow moving fans (800~1400 RPM)
Fans..don't know much about them (they don't look bad tho)
Res..no , it doesn't have to be joint with pump ,you just need extra fittings
EDIT; click on the links in my sig..you may learn a thing or two
 
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warakomd

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So, how does this look.

1/2 ID tubing.

RES:
http://www.swiftech.com/mcresmicrorev2reservoir.aspx

RADs:
(2x) http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsrx3xrare2.html

-CPU + GPU waterblocks:
EK-Supreme HF for cpu http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/ek-supreme-hf-nickel.html
(2x) EK-FC580 GTX+http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/review/product/list/id/737/category/41/

PUMP:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpu1.html

FANS: Which would i honestly be better off with? 6 per radiator with push/pull or 3 per radiator?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233052 (preference for looks)
or
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10323/fan-674/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_1850_RPM_D1225C12B5AP-15.html?tl=g36c15s60
or
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10457/fan-687/Yate_Loon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_Open_Chassis_D12SL-12.html

------I have a question regarding the koolance quick disconnect nozzles. If you look at this page you will see them listed. http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/default.php?cPath=62_60_104

They go from low all the way up to extreme flow. Would i fall under "High Flow"?

Thank you for taking the time to read my posts, i really appreciate it.

EDIT: fixed broken links
 
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warakomd

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Ortoklaz,

Thank you for giving me all of the assistance.

I actually just read that entire article before you even posted it, the gentle typhoons seem to be the best bang for the buck.

Please answer me this question, with all honesty.

If you were purchasing this for yourself is there anything you would swap out of my list or is it pretty solid?

 
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rubix_1011

rubix_1011

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GT's are great fans, but there are others that work well, so it's a matter of determining what works best for your application. A lot of people also like Scythe's or Yate Loons, too. Just do a little bit of research before making your choice...it won't be the end of the world, but you might be able to decide which would be the best choice for you.
 
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warakomd

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I'm still kind of unsure as to what i should do with my fan set up.

-First of all i need to know if i should do a push/pull set up (6 fans for 1 rad, 6 fans for other). OR would 3 per rad be adequate? I need to maximize my performance.

-I really want the http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233052 because of the purple LEDs, but there are other fans out there that are known to be solid watercooling performers (gentle typhoons, yate loons)

-Maybe i can do some sort of hybrid with the 120mm purple leds and some gentletyphoons?

Once again, i'm using the u2-ufo http://www.mountainmods.com/u2ufo-mirror-black-powder-coat-original-top-p-77.html

Someone hit me with your wisdom.





 
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rubix_1011

rubix_1011

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I run dual MCR320 rads and only have them running in pull for now. Push/pull would provide better performance, but that means more fans, more $ and more noise.

As for that Xigmatek fan...I think I've used it before for case fans for other builds. It blows pretty well and would likely be fine for your rads. Running push/pull might yield a 3-5 drop in temps, but that really depends on your exact loop setup and performance. Might be less...or more.
 
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warakomd

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I understand the MCR320 rads are quite cheaper than the xspc rx360. Since it seems i am going to be spending quite a bit of cash here, i'd like to save money where ever possible. If i were to substitute the XSPC with the swifttech rad would it be only marginally different in terms in performance?
 
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rubix_1011

rubix_1011

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The RX rads are better performing. The MCR rads are more in-line with the RS line of XSPC rads in performance. To make up for the lack of rad surface area, you'd need to run in push/pull to get closer to the performance of the RX rads in push OR pull. Either way you slice it, by the time you buy all those fans, you should've just bought the RX.

I'd say RX rad, get the fans you want...build your loop with that giant, goofy grin like a kid opening presents.
 
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warakomd

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Rubix,

You are very knowledgeable about the subject. I'm glad to know there are people around who are so helpful. I read your sticky and learned a lot from it!

In conclusion, i will go with the RX. I also assume 3 fans per rad should suffice UNTIL i can afford some more fans, correct?

You better believe it that i am going to have the LARGEST *** eating grin on my face when these parts arrive on my doorstep, haha.

Thank you for your help and advice ortoklaz, rubix, and orangejuice.
If there is anything else i should know, please let me know.
 
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warakomd

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that is the exact tubing i plan on using, actually. i saw it a month ago and i thought it looked fantastic.

Im going to have purple uv reactive parts such as sleeving, tubing, and some fittings. I was thinking about dyeing my distilled water UV green to really off-set the purple so it would stand out in the clear EK blocks and reservoir, but i'm not sure if that will have a negative "bleed thru" effect on the purple tubing and alter its color.
 
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rubix_1011

rubix_1011

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You should be able to find UV reactive purple around...UV dyes/additives don't really work well unless you run clear tubing with some really good UV lights. Additives/premixes aren't usually recommended by most due to their ability to precipitate out and can clog blocks. This typically only happens when you run high load for sustained periods of time but either way...you don't want it to happen. Feser 1 is most notably guilty for this happening, but there are others that likely would as well.
 
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