Maxtor Hard drive assistance!


I have a Maxtor hard drive that I replaced about two years ago (it quit working) so I replaced it with two new hard drives (one for backup).

The Maxtor is a 40gb, DiamondMax Plus 8, 40GB, ATA/133HD hard drive with a S/N of E1ARE2VE.

It has been sitting in a box until recently now I hope to start it up one last time to get my long lost items (mostly personal photos) off of it.

I guess you could say I'm in "DATA RECOVERY MODE" right now. Here's the symptoms:

The PC would get stuck at the "boot up" and I'd have to hit reset numerous times until finally it would boot up. One time it finally just wouldn't do anything.

I did a quick diagnosis and found that it makes no attempt to spin after connected to power. I don't recall hearing clicking or "buzzing". I also had issues with a power supply fan around this time.

I just purchased a "USB 2.0 to SATA/IDE cable system and power supply hoping to be able to jump the drive. I hook the SATA cable in and the red light inside the SATA module lights up red.

Once I hook up the external power supply the light goes out and the drive does absolutely nothing. I have a replacement circuit board on the way. Do you guys think there is anything else I can check before I replace the board?

I really look forward to any available assistance.

Thanks in advance.
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  1. ...OK,

    So now after plugging and unplugging the ATA and the power cable a few times the red light on the adapter stays red.

    It addition the ATA section of the board seems to be getting considerably warmer than the rest of it. Is this normal?
  2. Gee, Thanks for the help.
  3. fzabkar,

    The second one actually more closely resembles it. My chips have similar information but some have extra lines of numbers.

    Upon scanning the board I think I observe a chip with some damage... It appears to be cracked in half and not burnt.

    I do have a multimeter and would be prepared to take voltage measurements. I just don't know which points to check and what the voltages should be.

    I am good with electronics but not familiar with HDD PCB's.

    I gratefully look forward to your assistance.
  4. Also I bought a spare board from that same website,, It may be from the same person.

    I didn't want to install it yet until I try to find out whether or not the "firmware" is the same as I may cause permanent burning and failure if I've been reading correctly.
  5. Additional information:

    my Large chip is labeled:

    "ARDENT C9-C1

    The Large rectangular chip says:
    "0302 3-2
    MT 48LC1M16A1
    TG -6 S E ZINH"

    CHIP #1 says:
    "BUX C311:

    Chip #2 says:
    (Texas Instruments Logo) 3308XHT

    Chip #3 says:
    "I (Pi symbol) R 3020

    The chip circled in yellow appears to have the left side cracked off; the contents appear to be a silver contact. I did attempt to multimeter this and all contacts going into the chip are reading the same voltage as far as I can see. The rest of the PCB appears to be secure and in tact with no signs of damage or interruption.

    Also, if you look on the left side of the picture you will see the "12 94V-0". Below that my board says "0603". The research I've done tells me this board was made in the sixth week of 2003. The board I ordered on says
    "5103" telling me that board was created in the fifty first week of 2003. Seems like others have had firmware issues in only a few weeks. The 45 week gap i'm seeing may be a big jump in firmware...
  6. The ARDENT chip is the MCU.

    MT48LC1M16A1-6 is an SDRAM.

    MT48LC1M16A1-6, Micron Tech, 1 Mbit x 16 SDRAM, 512K x 16 x 2 banks:

    BUX is a 12V TVS diode.

    SH6782B is a combo spindle motor and voice coil controller.

    "F7207" is a MOSFET.

    IRF7207, P-Channel MOSFET, 20V, 5A, International Rectifier:

    My notes should help you identify other components:

    You are correct about the WWYY (Week / Year) date code on the PCB artwork. The chips also have date codes, usually in YYWW or YWW format, as follows:

    0314S, 0302, C311, 3308XHT, 3020

    I would first measure the voltages at the supply pins of the known chips.

    The SDRAM is one known quantity. Pin #1 (Vdd) should measure +3.3V.

    The unpopulated 8-pin location at the bottom left corner of the SDRAM is reserved for and 8-pin serial flash memory. Pin #8 should measure either +2.5V or +3.3V, probably the latter.

    M25P10V6, M25P10VP, ST Microelectronics, 1 Mbit (128 Kbit x 8) serial Flash memory:

    There should be a 3-terminal linear regulator near the preamp connector. Its output pin should measure +8V.

    78L08A, positive 8V linear regulator
    UA78L08A, Texas Instruments, 8V, 100mA Fixed Positive Voltage Regulator:

    I can't recognise the chip you have circled. Can you zoom up on the area around it? Can you see the part markings?
  7. Fourth chip from the left, more square than rectangular. You can see the left side is cracked off...
  8. Voltage to and from that black chip are as follows:

    The bottom left contact has a voltage of +6.66

    Bottom Right contact +1.24

    Top Contact: +5.30

    Does this match any paperwork that you may have? Half of the chip is cracked off and you can clearly see the contact for that left side of the chip.

    The SDRAM chip VDD #1 is showing 1.445 Volts... Considerably less than the noted voltage.

    BUX Chip: 11.55 Volts (side closest to the power supply) other side of chip is showing .001 volts. I think this may be my problem!!!

    M25P10V6, M25P10VP, ST Microelectronics, 1 Mbit (128 Kbit x 8) serial Flash memory:
    Supply: 1.32 V (again, less than the 2.3-3.6 V listed by the manufacturer.)

    There appear to be (2) three terminal linear regulators near the preamp connector. The smaller chip (also closest to preamp connector is labeled "CDC P32" and has an output voltage of 8.19 Volts.

    The Larger chip is labeled "2BD27V9 UA78M08C TI" and has an output voltage of 8.19 volts.
  9. The unpopulated 8-pin location at the bottom left corner of the SDRAM is reserved for and 8-pin serial flash memory. Pin #8 should measure either +2.5V or +3.3V, probably the latter.

    The #1 pin has a voltage of 1.68 volts. The number 8 pin has a voltage of .28 volts, assuming:

    | 2 4 6 8
    | 1 3 5 7
  10. Sorry, the 8V regulator is the larger 78M type, not 78L.

    uA78M08C, 8V regulator, 500mA:

    Yours is measuring correctly.

    The flash memory pinout is as follows (see the datasheet):

    | 8 7 6 5
    | 1 2 3 4

    In general, IC pinouts go anticlockwise, down the left side and up the right side.

    The BUX TVS diode is connected directly across the +12V supply. Its anode connects to ground, cathode to supply. Therefore it is measuring correctly. Its function is to clamp any spike on the +12V rail. In the event of a sustained overvoltage, it goes short circuit and protects the rest of the electronics.

    The SDRAM chip provides the clue. Its VDD supply is derived from the +5V supply via a regulator. Now we need to determine which component is the regulator. I would first measure the voltages on the pins of the IRF7207 MOSFET. Also measure the voltages on transistor Q302, which is to the left of the cracked transistor, Q303.

    BTW, I suspect that the Ardent MCU needs two voltages, a Vcore supply in the range of 1V to 2V, and a Vio supply of +3.3V.
  11. I should add that, with the board powered off, check for continuity between Vdd of the SDRAM and each of the pins of Q302, Q303, and the IRF7207. The one that measures 0 ohms is the 3.3V regulator.
  12. OK.

    Assuming that the 8 pin flash memory as this:

    | 8 7 6 5
    | 1 2 3 4

    The 8 pin has a voltage of 1.30 volts. Still, less than noted.
    F7207 MOSFIT voltage:

    | (.001)(.001)(.001)(.001)
    | (1.29) (1.29) (1.29) (1.28)

    Q302 voltage (I think this is the black chip with three contacts on one side and one large on the other?): Chip is labeled "BD T3B"

    |(5.30) (1.29) (5.3)|

    | (1.296) |

    *** The board that I ordered came in, and the chip that is cracked on my board (Q303) is labeled "BR" with a third letter/number that appears to have not been entirely painted on the chip.***

    Please also note that there are two VDD's on the SDRAM chip. One VDD is at pin/contact #1 while the other is at pin/contact #25.

    OK, next step: checking for continuity:

    VDD Contact/pin #1 of SDRAM to IRF 7207:

    | (2.64)(2.64)(2.64)(2.64)
    |(1.0) (1.0) (1.1) (2.207)
    VDD Contact/pin #1 OF SDRAM to Q303:

    | (2.72)
    |(3.82) (1.0)

    ***I was expecting open loop from the contact with 3.82 ohms of continuity because that is the cracked part of the chip.
    VDD Contact/pin #1 of SDRAM to Q302:

    |(2.51) (1.0) (2.61)

    | (1.1)
  13. For continuity testing:

    When applying one probe to VDD contact/pin 1 and the other probe to Q302 I get the following results:

    | (2.61) (0.2) (2.71)

    | (00.2)

    Probe from VDD contact/pin 1 to Q302 ***broken chip***:

    | (2.72)

    | (3.78) (.2)

    Remember, the 3.78 is the broken half.
    From VDD to F7207:

    |(2.57) (2.57) (2.57) (2.57)

    |(.2) (.2) (.2) (2.17)

    I'm not sure why none of them aren't showing a zero for the
  14. Do you think if I hook up the new PCB it will ruin the drive or destroy the new board?
  15. ISTM that the new PCB should not harm your drive. If its firmware doesn't match, then the drive will probably spin up and click. See the following discussions.

    Best match for Maxtor 6y Hard drive PCB.. To Recover Data.

    HowTO How To replace Maxtor Calypso III board

    What Is The Necessary Critieria For Maxtor PCB Replacement
  16. I don't know about the transistor with the "BD" marking, but I believe this is the datasheet for Q303:

    2SC2412K / 2SC4081 / 2SC4617 / 2SC5658 / 2SC1740S, general purpose NPN transistor (50V, 0.15A), Rohm, marking BR:,_2sc2412k,_2sc4081,_2sc4617,_2sc5658_r.pdf

    To answer some of your questions ...

    ICs may have several pins that are connected internally to the same point. One reason is current sharing. For example, your SDRAM has two Vdd pins and two ground pins, and your IRF7207 MOSFET has 4 drain pins, 3 source pins, and 1 gate pin.

    Q302's metal tab is connected to its middle pin, hence the package really only has 3 electrically distinct pins. It appears to be an PNP transistor. Q303 and Q302 appear to form a 3.3V linear regulator. The 3 plated through holes below Q303 are the Vio test points. To confirm that there is no short circuit on this supply, measure the resistance between Vio and ground.

    Vcore appears to be derived from Vio via the IRF7207 MOSFET. The MOSFET's drain pins (5,6,7,8) are probably the Vcore supply. To confirm that there is no short circuit on the Vcore supply, measure the resistance between the drains and ground. To confirm that Q302 is OK, set your meter to the diode test range, connect the common (black) lead to the base (rightmost) terminal of the transistor, and connect the red lead to each of the other pins in turn. A good transistor will read approximately 600 on each pin.
  17. BTW, are you sure you are reading ohms rather kilohms? Many of your measurements just don't look right.
  18. Here is how I see your Vcore and Vio supply circuits:

    You need to view the ASCII diagram using a fixed width font, eg Courier New.
  19. OK,

    I installed the other PCB, plugged it all in, and the drive spun up. It sounds fine, now it's running away. Windows installed drivers for the drive, but then I couldn't find it anywhere on the PC except for in "devices". I was hoping to find a source E:\\ (or whatever) with the drive and be able to access the files.

    I was able to see the drive in "Computer Management" where it appeared as:

    DISK 1
    38.29 GB
    Not Initialized"

    Beside that in the bar it has a black stripe and says "38.29 GB Unallocated".

    I searched the web and installed a program called "Recover my files".

    It is currently scanning, and this looks bad..

    It says "Scanning block 54,444 of 80,293,332 for lost files. (12,593 unreadable blocks).

    Each time the"Scanning block" number in that quote goes up, so does the "Unreadbale blocks" number.

    Does this seem like a firmware issue?
  20. In addition, If I "initialize" the drive, will the data be erased?

    This program is going to run for weeks before it searches all 80 million blocks. Am I wasting my time? I feel like the new PCB may also crap if I leave it on for that long...

    The device manager showed that the drive is "working properly" but I feel that only means that the drive is spinning!
  21. I'm not a data recovery professional, so I don't know enough to suggest what is happening with the unreadable blocks. However, please DO NOT initialise the drive. This is data destructive. It doesn't erase your data, but it does delete the partitions, which can amount to the same thing.

    "Working properly" means that the drive has responded correctly to an ATA Identify Device command by returning a 512-byte block of information containing its model number, serial number, total number of LBAs, DMA/PIO support, etc.
  22. I think you are wasting your time scanning your drive. BTW, have you connected it to your motherboard, or is it connected via USB? If it's the latter, I'd try a direct motherboard connection instead.

    BTW, if you wish to continue troubleshooting the electronics, you can measure the Vcore and Vio voltages on your replacement board.
  23. fzab,

    Sounds good. I will measure the Vcore and Vio's on both boards today. again thanks so much for your help.
  24. Fzab, Negative results with the recover my files. I am now beginning to check and compare voltages from the new PCB to the old one.

    I've discovered a few things:

    Q303 PCB 2:

    4.05 3.39

    Q303 PCB 1 (Broken Board):

    6.66 1.4

    Q302 PCB2:

    5.2 3.39 4.5

    Q302 PCB1:

    |(5.30) (1.29) (5.3)|

    | (1.296) |

    SDRAM Voltage:

    VDD1: 3.38 VDD2: 3.38

    8 pin flash memory: 8th pin showing 3.39 volts on PCB 2.

    F7207 MOSFET voltage PCB 2:


    1.69 0.01 1.69 1.69
    3.39 3.39 3.39 2.58

    F7207 MOSFET PCB1:
    F7207 MOSFIT voltage:

    | (.001)(.001)(.001)(.001)
    | (1.29) (1.29) (1.29) (1.28)

    Q303 Bottom left pin on old board with broken chip (according to earlier post) has a voltage of 6.66v. The new PCB is showing a voltage of 4.05 volts.... Interesting to me the old board has more voltage at that lower left pin.
  25. fzab,

    Look at the supply to the Q302 chip. The PCB 2 (Working board) has a supply of 3.39 volts while the PCB1 (Broken Board) has a supply of only 1.29 volts. It appears as if there is a problem with the supply to this chip...

    Also, Look at the supplies for the 8 pin flash memory. Also showing 1.3 volts; are the supplies for the 8 pin flash memory and the Q302 the same? On PCB 1 (broken) both are showing 1.3 while on PCB2 it is 3.39...
  26. As you say, transistor Q303 is definitely faulty. If this fault were due to physical impact, then the solution would be to replace it. Otherwise, if this is an electronic failure, then it would be unusual for Q303 to fail on its own. That's why I have asked you to measure the voltages and resistances in that area of the circuit.

    As you can see from this diagram ...

    ... the Vio voltage (+3.39V) is down-regulated to produce the Vcore voltage (+1.69V) for the MCU. On PCB #1 you are seeing a Vcore of 0V. I need you to measure the resistance between Vcore and ground. This will tell us whether there is an excessive load on this supply, which in turn may explain why the IRF7207 MOSFET is switched off. If Vcore is shorted, then this may also be the root cause for the failure of the preceding Vio supply.

    I would also test the resistances of Q302 on the diode test range, as previously suggested. This will confirm whether a failure in Q302 has caused the Vio load current to be transferred to Q303, which would then explain the failure of Q303.

    You are correct in saying that Q302 supplies both the SDRAM and serial flash. That's the Vio rail.

    As for why "the old board has more voltage at that lower left pin", this is because the motor controller controls the Vio and Vcore regulators. It does this by sensing the Vio output voltage and then driving the base pin of Q303 to maintain a constant voltage as the load varies. In the case of PCB#1, the motor controller senses that Vio is too low and tries to drive Q303 harder in order to increase the Vio voltage. However, since Q303 is faulty, then the motor controller's control voltage hits its upper limit.
  27. OK,

    I am not particularly familiar with using diode test ranges. I have my multimeter set to the ->| symbol and these are my readings:

    Black test probe on one of the screws holding the board to the drive (ground) and testing MOSFET F7207 Pins 5,6,7,8:

    Each of these pins are showing .226 volts on PCB1 (bad board). The PCB2 (new board) has .655 volts on each pin.
  28. Q 302 (Diode Test range, grounding on screw terminal)
    PCB1, Bad board
    |.271 .576 .326


    PCB 2, good board
    |.267 .595 .322

  29. For resistance, my multimeter has only one "OHM" setting. By pressing "Range", I can change my multimeter from "K ohms" (.OL) to "K ohms" (O.L) to "K ohms" (OL.) to "M ohms" (.OL) to "M ohms" (O.L) to "OHMS" (OL.)

    I'm not sure which one to set to. If I set it to the "ohm symbol omega" The open loop shows when I touch any drain on Mosfet and on Q 302. I get other results with different settings. This is a DL177 multimeter.

    Which setting do I need for measuring these values?
  30. To test Q302, you need to perform a diode test between its own terminals. Connect your black probe to the Base pin, and then test each of the Collector and Emitter pins with the red probe.

    The pinout is as follows:

    Emitter - Collector - Base

    The metal tab is connected to the middle pin:
  31. Ok. tested like that the values are:

    .593 .001 .640
  32. On pcb2 the values are

    .581. .001. .629
  33. I believe you have interchanged the collector and base pins, otherwise Q302 is testing OK. I don't know why the Vcore load resistances are testing differently on your two PCBs, but at least there is no short circuit on this supply. Therefore I think it is safe to go ahead and replace Q303.

    To this end, either use the transistor from your donor, if you can desolder it without damaging it, or determine the part number of the original component by comparing its dimensions against the following datasheet:,_2sc2412k,_2sc4081,_2sc4617,_2sc5658_r.pdf

    If you can't locate the original component, then post back and we'll try to find a suitable substitute.
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