Pump and Radiator for water cooling?

rohitj

Distinguished
Jul 5, 2010
9
0
18,510
Hey guys, Im looking at making a closed water cooling loop for under $100. Right now I have found this pump, do you think it will work, in terms of pressure and gph? I will have a reservoir maybe 1.5 ft by 1 ft by 8in. http://www.amazon.com/EcoPlus-Submersible-Pump-396/dp/B0018X2XT4/ref=pd_rhf_p_t_2. Do you think I will work? :??: I will be using a 77 pontiac bonneville heater core, for the radiator. How will this work compared to something like the black ice? http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MHT0/398219.oap?ck=Search_heater+core_02709_1246250_3576&keyword=heater+core&pt=02709&ppt=C0331. I have heard many people use these. Another problem is that the fittings on this is 5/8 and 3/4, when i have 1/2" tubes. I dont think the 5/8 will be a problem, but the 3/4 will. I dont have a soldering torch, so what do I do?
 

rohitj

Distinguished
Jul 5, 2010
9
0
18,510
Here is a graph for the pump http://www.horticulturesource.com/popup_image2.php?pID=878&osCsid=6ceb978f4735d26c6c5d08e479f842a2. The pump is the eco 396. Also, does coolant vs distilled water really make a difference, in case of a spill?
 

rubix_1011

Contributing Writer
Moderator
I think you have some good ideas, but that pump is a submersible pump...not sure if it is required to be submersed or not to operate (as in a fish pond). The heater core is fine, what water block(s) are you planning to run on what components? That pump is a little higher than most typical water pumps, but you should be OK as long as you make sure all your barbs/fittings inside your case are secure. Too much pressure could potentially blow tubing off a barb.

As for the fittings, you could possibly find some 5/8" -3/4" barb adapters and tubing at the hardware store. This would be the simplest option instead of cutting and soldering on new barbs. I ran a heatercore once and sawed off the old barbs and JB Welded on the ones I wanted.

Also, relax a little. You made all these posts/replies within a short time period. There is a very good chance that no one was on to respond. If you were in a rush, you might not want to consider watercooling...it takes a lot of patience and you need to really understand what you are doing before you make the decision on your purchases. We are here to help, but also consider that we aren't online 24/7.

Good luck.
 

rohitj

Distinguished
Jul 5, 2010
9
0
18,510
Yes I totally understand what you are saying I was a little bit anxious as I had some ideas popping into my head at the time. I have take a look at the pump and found its lift is only 6 ft which is not very good. Since then I have found this pump http://www.lowes.com/pd_59084-60084-DP330_0__?productId=3036226&Ntt=smart+pond+pump&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dsmart%2Bpond%2Bpump&facetInfo= with a 12 ft lift and slightly lower gph. As an idea can you tell me the temp of the water coming from the cpu so I get an idea of what kind of tubing I need? Also what are your opinions on distilled water vs coolant? I am using an OCZ hydroflow waterblock.
 

rubix_1011

Contributing Writer
Moderator
For that pump, it looks like it will need to be submersed in order to work, so your reservoir would ultimately be (in this case) your 'pond'. Temps in a water loop aren't that high, so you can use any tubing you wish that fits your fittings. Most of us use Tygon, Feser, Masterkleer, etc...but you can also use that cheap, hardware store vinyl tubing if you want.

As for 'coolant'...distilled water is best with some biocide and/or a killcoil (.9999 pure silver strip). Coolants won't give you any better temps; some coolants are a little better at preventing corrosion (galvanic corrosion...mixed metals) in a loop, but really aren't needed. In some cases of 24/7 use under high loads, some premixes and coolants actually precipitate out and can clog your blocks...so beware. (Feser 1 has a bad rap for this...but with good reason to support it).
 

rohitj

Distinguished
Jul 5, 2010
9
0
18,510
Yea this pump needs to be submerged and I kind of want a submerged pump. That way I can put it in the reservoir and the sound will be less. Also with a submerged pump the pump doesnt have to be below the whole system so water will flow to it. For me to get it below the system will be very hard without buying a special reservoir, which I dont want to spend money on.
 

rohitj

Distinguished
Jul 5, 2010
9
0
18,510
Also where can I buy this biocide? I cant seem to find it on ebay or amazon. I would like to stick to ebay and amazon and newegg and tiger direct for purchasing. I think the biocide will be better as the coil can get stuck in the pump or something. If you can give me an ebay link that would be great.
 

rubix_1011

Contributing Writer
Moderator
You can use about anything that is an algae growth inhibitor. Typically, we use stuff called PTNuke which is somewhat limited to PetrasTechShop, but there are other similar versions of biocides or different formulas out there that do the same thing. Here is a link to some of the items I'm talking about http://www.petrastechshop.com/coad.html

Most watercoolers don't run an actual pond pump, but it's very possible to do. I run a D5/MCP655 vario pump and it's actually very quiet. Also, once you get the pump primed (be aware: watercooling specific pumps use a ceramic bearing and CANNOT be run without water) you don't need to worry about the pump getting water...a closed loop with the air purged will continually keep pumping water...its a continuous circle.
 

rohitj

Distinguished
Jul 5, 2010
9
0
18,510

Right if its a continious cycle does that mean the res has to be 100% full? Remember gravity plays a huge role. So won't the water in the tube just fall down back to the res? and wont this put air in the tubes?
 

rubix_1011

Contributing Writer
Moderator
Gravity does not play a role in a water loop, at all, unless you have air in the loop and there isn't any flow. (which would be very bad, and defeating the purpose of a waterloop to begin with). If a loop is filled and primed, the water continuously pushes and pulls through the entire loop, like if you had a loop of rope around a pulley, or a train connected engine to caboose in a continuous circle.