Hard Drive -- Western Digital Caviar Green WD20EADS 1TB SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - OEM (X2)
CD/DVD -- SAMSUNG 22X DVD±R DVD Burner with LightScribe Black SATA Model SH-S223Q - OEM
Power -- COOLER MASTER Real Power Pro RS-C50-EMBA-D2 1250W ATX Form Factor 12V V2.3 / SSI standard EPS 12V V2.92 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply
I've read alot on these forums from all of you who are alot more knowledgeable than I, so I just would like a critique on my setup. Any advice would be great... Thanks
I would recommend the swiftech kits, though most water cooling kits are pure !@#$, swiftech kits are nice and have great quality to them. Be prepared to drop at least 300 dollars for a nice setup.
As for your parts, I have a few problems. You don't need a dedicated sound card if your mobo has integrated hd audio. Caviar greens are fine but I've heard that they run at 5400rpm, not 7200rpm. Samsung dvd burner is a great choice. You don't need 1250 watts, thats rediculous and should be reserved for 4x crossfire or 3x sli setups. Instead, get a 650 or 750 watt psu. For the processor, you might want the 955 black edition cpu...
+1 for no kits except the Swiftech Apex (~$250-320).
Also do get a 7200 rpm drive. 5400rpm is a bit too slow esp. if transferring large files. Also you DO NOT need DDR3 1800. DDR3 1333 is more than enough.
Again, you DO NOT need a 1kW PSU. A good 750W PSU like the PC Power & Cooling 750 or the Corsair 750TX is more than enough.
I'll just snip the whole thing, I just redid parts of it.
Us guys have done the WC thing, there are basics you gotta know. Take a look, don't take it as a diss on you or a rebuttal, look at as a friend saying "Dude, you gotta know what to say and how to communicate".
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CPU HS $65
GPU HS and air HS for vram and mosfets $95, full cover block, $100-$200
Radiator $60 min, up to $130
Pump $50 +
Resiviour $25
Hose, some barbs and clamps etc (min $25, more like $35)
Fans $15-30
I went top notch and spent close to $600 to cool my CPU and GPU.
First you gotta learn about WC. It's not like walking into Best Buy.
Spend a while (weeks is best for your sanity) at these links.
Look at the hundreds of loops close to your case and components in the stickies, read a couple 50 or so threads over the next week or so, you'll be on the ball to make the right choices and by then know how to put it together.
Not 'Roket Sience', but basic knowledge is required.
And you should spend a few hours on the listed sites reading threads. It's how we learn. Once the goodies show up on your doorstep your on your own.
For your benefit please spend a few days reading a LOT. At the busiest places for WC masters. Guys who have done it for YEARS at OC Forums and xtreme forums. It took me a while (I was OCing on air, aftermarket stuff, bios settings, best chipsets etc etc) to learn the language and the tricks to a easy install.
Don't expect miracles or SUPER DOOPER over clocks. What you will get is a quiet system that can handle OC to the max of your hardware IF you buy quality and buy smart. And minor maintenance too, a bonus for the water cooler.
Also while there please read on case mods etc. The radiators are not for small cases, pumps and hose routing, wire management and other things are important. Google your planned case and the word water-cooled in one line. You might get lucky.
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Edit: The next paragraph was from 2008. With the advent of the HOT i7 and bigger GPU's, it has changed. A 220 size MIN rad for an i7, you want big overclocks, better go 320 sized rad.
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IF you just cool your CPU and your NB if you want, you can get by with a 120.2 sized radiator (RAD). And MAYBE fit in inside depending on your mod skillz. You want to cool your GPU too, you'll need a 120.3 sized rad, and it probably won't fit inside. The rear external rad really works great. No matter what your adding 10lbs to your PC.
Once you got an idea of what is good/bad then start getting your system for WC put together and we'll be glad to help.
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Here is the poop on solid info on air/water temps. The link is to an MCR320.
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Swifte...20-Review.html Scroll half way down and you can see the in/out air diff on the chart. It depends, like I said on fannage what the out air temp vs. the in temp is.
You can also see the water in/out is very close in temps. No more than 1.5 C. Amazing eh? I thought so too once I deciphered the charts.
So if you put a second rad with good airflow, you still get good results. Fannage needs to be higher to compensate for the increased air restriction. Meaning double fans on the rad setup, but it's a viable solution.
Equilibrium (tough word) means with a set heat load (idle/load) after an amount of time temps in a WC loop will stabilize. The heat load is the same, ambient air is the same, fannage is the same, pumps are the same, size of rads are the same, temps will stabilize for those conditions. Any of these parameters change, it has to stabilize. …………………………………………………………
Cleaning a loop, not a new loop: I do this once a year, I drain and refill at 6 months, the next time I do this……..
Wash hands very well, getting rid of hand oils.
For pumps and blocks, fittings, clamps, acrylic res/block parts.... not hose, tear it to smallest pieces, put in a bowl, heat water up not to boiling add 10% vinegar, when hot, pour over parts. Rinse in 10 min or so. Put aside.
The bocks will probably have some black oxidation. Take the copper parts out of the pile of parts you took out of the water. Dry well and pour ketchup on them, and set aside. Only the copper parts need this.
Rad cleaning: fill with very almost boiling hot water. Let sit 10 minutes, drain half out and shake for 5 min. Repeat till liquid is clean.
All the pump, block, fittings, and clamps, inspect, get in the tiniest corners with a tooth brush. Kind of meditative, time consuming, you learn a lot about o-ring size, how it all feels. Run a rag using a caat hanger and dish soap through the tubing, rinse well.
Rinse all the parts and hose with distilled, dry then really dry with an air compressor (nice extra step to get rid of water spots). Don’t need to dry the inside of the hose.
Now on to the copper parts, they should have been soaking an hour or two. A toothbrush and ketchup should clean much of the oxidation. It probably won’t be like new, but pretty darn good. Rinse, dry, and blow the parts.
That’s it.
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Benching software and such is very varied. I use these for each purpose:
These are pretty standard and used by many.
Monitoring the PC temps overall: HWmonitor aka hardware monitor
CPUZ for CPU info
GPUZ for GPU info
CPU only: RealTemp
GPU only: ATI Tool, I have a Nivida GTX280, so it works on Nvidia
Based on what you've posted, it seems you haven't done enough research. First of all, you selected an x48 motherboard, which is a last generation part, which, based on your build, it seems like you're going for somewhat top of the line. Secondly, you chose an AMD processor, which isn't compatible with the motherboard you selected. Also, that case is a huge waste of money. If you want a nice case, get a Lian-li or silverstone and then buy the water cooling parts separately, not integrated into the case. Leonlee was right. If you're going to buy a kit, you pretty much have to go with swifttech. Another option would be to get a kit from petra's, such as this one: http://www.petrastechshop.com/pecoel.html .
Before going any further, I highly suggest you take a step back and read up on current computer hardware and watercooling if you decide to go that route.
I guess the only thing you mesed up on was the CPU. If you want to use that motherboard (with the X45 NB) you're gonna have to swap out the CPU for a LGA775 based Intel CPU.
If you're gonna get that motherboard, you can't get any of the Core i7 cpu's nor the Core i5's. Best bet would be a Core 2 Quad.
The x48 northbridge allows for crossfire at pci-e 2.0 for 2 slots at x16 speeds and another slot at im guessing x4 (as stated by newegg). This is a CROSSFIRE only solution, meaning you can't run nvidia cards in SLI on this board. I'm guessing you knew that already as you picked out a 4890 for your video card. I'm guessing you're going to be adding another 4890 in the near future.
If you want and AMD CPU with Crossfire, you're gonna want to look at board with the 790 series northbridge chipset (do your research and find out which specific chipset as I'm too lazy to do your research for you. one i remember is the 790fx)
Anyways, yeah change out that power supply as it's overkill. Also +1 on the case, swap that out as well.