$700-$1000 Gaming PC

Hi there, this is my first time building a computer. I don't have really much knowledge about computer hardware, but in the past few days I've learnt alot. I've heard it is really important to get a good PSU, as it affects everything your computer does.

APPROXIMATE PURCHASE DATE: In the next 2 weeks or so BUDGET RANGE: $700-$1000

SYSTEM USAGE FROM MOST TO LEAST IMPORTANT: Gaming (not too hardcore, just be able to run Fallout 3 well), Surfing web, watching movies

PARTS NOT REQUIRED: Really nothing, I need everything new because I don't have older parts

PREFERRED WEBSITE(S) FOR PARTS: I live in Canada, so: http://newegg.ca, http://ncix.com/, http://www.directcanada.com/

PARTS PREFERENCES: A Intel Duo Core cpu or AMD x3 core with Asus/Gigabyte Motherboard with 19"-22" LCD monitor and Mid Tower Case


MONITOR RESOLUTION: 1440x900 (I don't really care)

ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: I would like to play games such as Team Fortress 2 or Fallout 3 at the high resolutions. I am leaning towards the P45 type Motherboard as I heard it was reliable and relatively cheap. I am just wondering if the motherboard I've chosen will support DDR3 RAM. Also, I live in Canada so things will be a bit more expensive than USA. Thank you very much for your help!


AMD Phenom II X3 720 2.8GHz 3 x 512KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache Socket AM3 95W Triple-Core Black Processor - Retail


BIOSTAR TFORCE TA790GX 128M AM3/AM2+/AM2 AMD 790GX HDMI ATX AMD Motherboard - Retail


Combo Deal with Processor and Motherboard= $248.99

Crucial 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model CT2KIT25664AA800 - Retail



Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail



CORSAIR CMPSU-550VX 550W ATX12V V2.2 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply - Retail



Western Digital Caviar Black 500GB 7200RPM 32MB Dual Proc SATA 3.5IN Hard Drive OEM 5YR MFR Warranty

http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=33883&vpn=WD5001AALS&manufacture=Western Digital WD


Samsung SH-S223F Black 22X DVD Writer SATA OEM



ASUS VW192T+ 19" 5ms Widescreen LCD Monitor 300 cd/m2 ASCR 4000:1(1000:1) Built in Speakers - Retail



SAPPHIRE 100258-1GHDMI Radeon HD 4850 1GB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Retail



Logitech Access Keyboard 600 USB Black



Logitech LX3 Optical Mouse 1000DPI USB PS/2



Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium Edition 32BIT DVD OEM



I just have a question about compatibility of the parts and also if I should look into DDR3 instead of DDR2 as the price for it is dropping too?

Should I also buy stuff for cooling?

I've already gone over $1000, so I need to downgrade some stuff

Current Total: $1098.9 after shipping fees and taxes

Thank you, any suggestions are appreciated
16 answers Last reply
More about 1000 gaming
  1. Good looking build. Your mobo doesn't support DDR3 memory however.

    If you aren't going to OC, you won't need additional cooling.
  2. Thank you for the reply, I am not planning to OC anytime soon. I am just wondering if I should switch to a mobo that supports DDR3 or is DDR2 fine right now?
  3. DDR3 is the future. If you don't plan to buy any more RAM, then keep it the way it is.
  4. I don't think I'll be adding more RAM. The thing is I am kind of tight on my budget (especially after I add shipping and handling fees for some parts) so does anyone know any good deals or things I can downgrade to fit within my budget? I think it'll also cost another $150 or so for an OS
  5. Well, for 1440x900 resolution, you could drop back to a 4850. This will allow you to get a smaller PSU as well; a quality 450W+ unit would be sufficient.
    As nice as the G11 is, unless you intend to do a lot of macro programming for your games, you could get by for a lot less. Same with the G5; I love mine, but a decent mouse with a tilt-wheel like a Logitech LX-3 might be sufficient.
    The speakers in your monitor will give you sound, but should not be considered a replacement for a separate set, even a low-end 2.1 setup.
    Did you mean to choose an IDE optical drive? SATA ones are available for nearly the same price, and will do away with that airflow blocking ribbon cable.
  6. he said a quality unit, so corsair, PCP&C, silverstone, seasonic / silverpower.

    and definitely not Raidmax, Rosewill, Alphacool, or most PSU's which come with cases.
  7. Thanks for the replies guys. So far I decided I won't need gaming keyboards and mice so I'll just stick the cheaper ones. I've also decided to go with the 4850 1gb graphic card instead, and downgrade to a lower wattage PSU.
  8. As to your question jtt283, SATA drives are better but a bit too expensive for me, unless I downgrad some other stuff. Would you recommend me to buy a SATA one instead?
  9. I would HIGHLY recommend a SATA optical drive. I don't know why they even still sell those IDE drives. A SATA drive doesn't cost any more than an IDE one:

    Samsung SH-S223F Black 22X DVD Writer SATA OEM
    http://ncix.com/products/?sku=38115&vpn=SH-S223F%2FBEBE&manufacture=Samsung $31.08
  10. Oh thank you for that link! I didn't even see it until now. I will stay with SATA optical drives from now on. Once again thank you!

    I just have one quick question: Does it matter what type of DDR2 RAM I get? I found there are two most common ones 1066 and 800. Is the 1066 better?
  11. Does anyone else have any other suggestions? Getting Windows Vista Home Premium is really expensive in Canada, probably at least $150, so can anyone suggest cheaper parts since this is kind of over my budget once I add in shipping, handling and other stuff. The problem with my build is that I need a mouse, keyboard, OS, monitor and power supply while other builds usually just use the things from before. Thanks
  12. I've looked into a different PSU:

    OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W ATX 20/24PIN SLI Ready Modular Cables 135MM Fan Active PFC Power Supply


    Do you guys think it is better than the one I have right now? Once again any suggestions will be appreciated
  13. OCZ works. Maybe not as good as Corsair but its an option.

    If you really want to save money, I mean REALLY, consider the following:

    1. Choose the cheapest but better review case (ie. Rosewill R220-P-BK, Linkworld PRESCOTT)
    2. Going with semi-good PSU (ie. Cooler Master[They're good but they do have a reputation of being one good, one bad. When they're good, they're good. When they're bad, they're bad])
    3. If you have a Chinatown near you (no racism) go to their computer stores and pick up a really cheap keyboard/mouse. Sometimes they have other computer parts for cheap as well.
  14. If you get a PSU with Active PFC that is 80+ certified, I'm confident it won't be garbage. At the very least, to get the 80+ certification, it was tested at 100% load and didn't smoke. There are some newer Coolermasters in this group. The older ones (with no PFC, i.e. they have a little voltage switch on them) I would not recommend. At best, they are inefficient. At worst, they are overrated, unstable, and have too much of their wattage on +5V, rather than +12V where it is needed.
    I agree with Armi on the cheaper cases. I've used a bunch of the cheapest Rosewills, and they've all been decent; better than the low-end Coolermaster cases.
  15. Thank you for the replies. I think I'll still stick with a solid PSU as well as the Antec Three Hundred because I don't want the fans and things to be brittle. I'll look into this store at Chinatown though for some less important parts.

    I was just wondering, do you guys think getting a more expensive Intel Duo Core CPU is better than the one I have right now?
  16. Check the benchmarks
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