I have a rather large case so longer cords are a must. At present I only have two optical devices, but am looking to add a blu-ray or two in the future and if possible I would like to keep one of these drives.
sweetsx, for your rig, the Corsair 850TX should be more than enough, and it's only $103 at Amazon right now with MIR. All the extra money for the 1000TX may be overkill... almost twice the price for a 150w gain you probably won't use. Have a look!
I have/will have an Antec 1200 case with a bazillion LED fans, OC'd i7 920 at 3.8 gHz, 12GB ram, one WD Raptor, two 7200rpm drives in RAID, DVD drive, blu-ray drive, two GTX260s in SLI, external eSata drive, Soundblaster card, lettuce, pickles, and tartar sauce and Thermaltake says I need 603 watts, and that takes into account a 20% aging rate of the PSU's capacitors. Much more accurate than the first site that said I needed 900watts, yet didn't change when I added and took away hard drives.
I would go with the PC Power & Cooling Silencer PPCS910 910W power supply. I have a system similar to yours and I actually had the same two power supplies in mind. This power supply works great, and yes it is actually very silent. The company is know for making quality power supplies as it is there main product. I chose this company for their reputation of satisfying their customers.
the Silencer gets lood under load, i dont think hes gona pump 800-900 watts to make it lood ... i NEVER eared my silencer since under FULL load ( CPU+GPU ) i get 450w ...... and while gaming im in the 300-400, depand on the game.
July 22, 2009 7:34:56 PM
I am not sure if this is a place to post my questions.
I just built a computer very similar to Sweetsx for gaming purpose. I'd built computers myself many times. However, this new computer is the only one giving me so much trouble. .
If I just watched movies, web surfing, my computer would work fine. However, it would keep reboot itself like every 5 or 10 min when I played the game, Everyquest2. I did a bit research on this issue. Some people said it might relate to PSU. So that I purchased IN WIN COMMANDER IRP-COM1200 1200W ATX 12V 2.3 / EPS 12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Modular Active
When I installed it, it couldn't even boot up my system. So I changed to my original PSU, it couldn't boot up the system also. I kept swap between these 2 PSUs to try to boot up my computer. The funny things was that even I unpluged DVDrw/all case fans/ no USBs/single monitor at all, I couldn't even boot up my computer.For some reasones, my original could finally boot up after 4 hours tries.
I also usedd ASUS PC prob to check CPU's temp and fans speed.
CPU temp, watching movies, surfing internet / gaming : 45 : 56 centigrade degree ( is 56 too high?)
CPU fan speed : ~2.3 K rpm
Case fans speed : ~1.2 K rpm
Vcore : 1.2
12V : 12.08
Video card temp : watching movies, surfing internet / gaming : 42 : 57 centigrade degree ( is 57 too high?)
So my questions are
1. Why would my new computer keep reboot itself when I played the game, not enough power (I don't do any overclocking on any thing)? Anyway to fix it?
2. Why wouldn't my original PSU boot up the computer when I installed it properly?
3. Is there a log file to check what process it did last and crush.
Any advice will be appreciated.
Thank you for you time.
My computer is
AUS P6T V2
i7 920 2.66 (no overclocking)
OCZ Platinum 12GB 1600 MHz(6x2048)
ASUS DVD +/- RW 20x
Seagate 1TB Serial ATA HD 7200/32MB/SATA-3G
ULTRA X3 850W PSU
3 * 14mm case fans
dual monitor setup (1st: 1920:1080 ; 2nd: 1600:1080)
Windows Vista Home Prem 64-bit DSP OEM DVD (automatic restart is unchecked)
Avast! 4.8 Home edition (have latest virus def. and no virus found)
(not many softwares installed)