Corsair H60 CPU Cooler Review (or sorts)

I made a video depicting the variances of what the temperature diode "reports" to software and what the "ACTUAL" temps really are.
In my case, there is/was a 25C difference in accuracy in what the software reported. This can be huge when stock fans are used since they are marginal at best at keeping temps down.

I was impressed with the H60. See the video and feel free to criticize or compliment, as long as it is constructive.

Remember this is my first attempt at setting up such a unit.

Also, I got similar temps when OCing to 3412 and was stable at this level . Trying 3600+ next, but I suspect the H60 will keep temps at bay. Ambient Room Temperatures is/was 75F.

Thanks all
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  1. ALso note, I used a high-end infrared thermometer to do the heat measurements.
  2. Temps are read at the IHS of the CPU and the sensors there, not the side of the waterblock or the side/top of the Corsair cooler itself. It's very hard to see exactly where on the side of the CPU/mount you were hitting, but its possible you could have been monitoring temps of a transistor or other MB component. You'd need to have a probe right on the IHS of the CPU to be much more accurate.

    ASUS Probe is notoriously inaccurate...this is widely known. Most manufacturer monitoring software also is inaccurate as well. Use RealTemp or CoreTemp to read your temp sensors more accurately. See if you get different temp readouts using one of those pieces of software in comparison, I'd be curious to see how much difference there is.
  3. RealTemp did not work with my AMD 645. CoreTemp shows exactly the same readings as AMD overdrive and Asus TurboV.
    I KNOW it's much hotter, unless that's freon in the H60 Cooler!
  4. You can use the internal temp sensor on most current CPUs and it is far more accurate and useful than an infrared scan which measures the surface temp. The H60 is an OK water-cooling set-up but many air-cooled heatsink fans are superior.

    I personally would not waste my time or money on any water-cooled set-up unless it was substantially better than air cooling. That would be $200+ priced water-cooled Antec or similar systems, which are pointless unless you are trying for extreme OC'ing entertainment.
  5. I paid $59 for the H60, and using the software as the baseline (regardless if accurate or not), the difference is/was pretty substantial, as much as 25c in additional cooling, with an indoor ambient temperature of 75F.
    At Idle with stick box fan, I got readings of around 25c. With the H60 under the same load I'm geting around 13.
    At 100% load, with the stock fan, it topped out at 50C,
    And with the H60, I've never passed 24C.
    Again, this is using the computer software. The actual temps are higher, but for the benefit of comparisons, it's clear that the water cooling works.

    That said, I have no experience with high-end air/fan cooling. If air/fan setups are capable of better, then that IS impressive.
  6. Sorry for the typos. NOT stick box fan, it's STOCK BOX FAN.

    IN closing, this water cooler is giving at or over 25 additional C's in cooling compared to stock fans. That is impressive.
  7. Quote:
    That would be $200+ priced water-cooled Antec or similar systems, which are pointless unless you are trying for extreme OC'ing entertainment.

    Not sure I can even begin to agree with you...I would NEVER buy anything that was a LCS/water loop that had the word 'Antec' on it. For $200, you can build a great CPU custom loop that would run far better than any close loop cooler.
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