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Corsair H60 water cooling --> which config is better ???

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September 4, 2011 9:37:49 PM

Hi everyone , I have H60 hydro series cooling for my i5 2500k + Asus P8P67 pro .
My question is : which fan setup will be more effective ??
(I'll be using 2x 120mm fans on both sides of the radiator )

1) (pull-push) pulling cold air from the back of the case and with the second fan pushing it into the case ???

2) (push-pull) pulling warmer air from inside of the case and pushing it out with the second fan ??

PLEASE NOTE : I have 1x140mm front intake fan
1x120mm intake fan on the side of the case and One more fan on the top of the case which I will configure
Intake or exhaust fan , depending of the H60 setup .

What do You recommend ???
Thanx !
September 4, 2011 11:27:37 PM

#2 no question about it

the first option will only jam your case full of hot air....not to mention bog down those fans from the positive pressure
September 4, 2011 11:51:32 PM

badtaylorx said:
#2 no question about it

the first option will only jam your case full of hot air....not to mention bog down those fans from the positive pressure


Thanx for an advice .
Could you tell me how would you set the fan on the top of the case while using the configuration #2
Will you insall it as exhaust fan or intake fan ??
Thanx
Related resources
a b K Overclocking
September 5, 2011 12:17:36 AM

Are you using the HAF X?
a b K Overclocking
September 5, 2011 12:53:42 AM

You ask which will be more effective, if you want low CPU temps, then the first one, if you want low case temps, then the second one.
September 5, 2011 1:20:34 AM

pshemax said:
Thanx for an advice .
Could you tell me how would you set the fan on the top of the case while using the configuration #2
Will you insall it as exhaust fan or intake fan ??
Thanx



intake.......go for the positive pressure.....it will also result in lest dust oddly enough!!!
September 5, 2011 5:13:28 AM

vollman1 said:
Are you using the HAF X?


Cooler master elite 430 black
a b K Overclocking
September 6, 2011 2:31:54 AM

I am no expert, but my choice would be to set it up the puch/pull on the back exhaust, with air flowing out of the case.

I think that this will probably help to keep your GPU cooler under load, since the hot air will be pulled out of the case.

Also, the H60 tubes should fit easily by mounting it to the rear.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong.
a c 326 K Overclocking
September 6, 2011 2:00:08 PM

You'd want push/pull with the air intake, even if it is the back. Most cases have the ability to have side intakes, top exhausts and even multiple fans in the back. Cold air in...just make sure you have the top set as exhaust...you'll be fine.
September 6, 2011 2:52:18 PM

rubix_1011 said:
You'd want push/pull with the air intake, even if it is the back. Most cases have the ability to have side intakes, top exhausts and even multiple fans in the back. Cold air in...just make sure you have the top set as exhaust...you'll be fine.


Let me make sure I've got it right .

Front 140mm = intake
Side panel 120mm = intake
Back of the case (where the H60 is)
2x120mm fan (pull/push) intake

And just one 120mm exhaust fan on the top of the case ??

Correct me if I'm wrong .

Thanx again .
a c 326 K Overclocking
September 6, 2011 3:08:45 PM

Yeah, should be fine. Your case isn't air tight, so the air coming in isn't going to cause any issues. You might consider making the exhaust fan higher flow (CFM) than the others...but to be honest, you'd be fine if you ran your H60 as exhaust as well. If you have the side panel on intake, its pulling in cool air which is very close to where the CPU cooler would be pulling air through and out of your case. Just do that...
September 6, 2011 5:05:17 PM

yeah....you got it ......the only other thing ill add to that is a cppl items that will further drop your temps....the first is a better fan......twice as much air half as loud

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... (out of stock at the moment...but they'll be back)

and a shroud.....(more important than you'd think (it eliminates the dead space behind the fan motor where no air can pass))

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_p...

good luck
a b K Overclocking
September 6, 2011 5:28:34 PM

You got it pshemax, you should be good with all these great tips! Let us know how things turn out for you :) 
September 9, 2011 7:44:32 PM

I came here reading to try to figure out my temp problem with my h60. Learned the hard way with no help from corsair. I had the radiator mounted with the hoses at the top, did not think it would matter. Put the hoses at the bottom and been 100% better. Before it would heat up until it shut down, now sitting idle( have not tested a load yet) at 36c. Wow what a difference. Put this on it shut down then stock fan it was ok. 2-3 times. Was ready to ditch the h60 for air. Then turned it over and all is good! Corsair never tried to trouble shoot the problem or ask if it was mounted properly they never say in instructions that it matters if hoses are at bottom or top, they did send me a link for rma.
a c 326 K Overclocking
September 9, 2011 8:31:30 PM

Sounds like you had some kinked tubing, maybe?
a b K Overclocking
September 9, 2011 8:47:26 PM

Or a bubble in the pump. I think it happened to at least one other person.
a c 326 K Overclocking
September 9, 2011 9:00:08 PM

The pumps aren't that good to begin with...so anything detrimental is borderline catastrophic.
September 9, 2011 10:31:33 PM

I don't think it matters whether tubes are on the bottom ot top .
Probably there is some blockage . It will be safer to send it back to Corsair and get them to replace it for new one . That's what my friend did with his H100 recently .
Well , those things happen . Therefore we have warranty :) 
GL .
September 10, 2011 1:46:08 AM

ive modded an h70 and an h80.....both had their rads only 95% full of liquid......there is enough air inside the loop to hydroloc the pump........what one needs to do in that situation is to tumble it "this way and that way" while the pump is running.....and then let it run until you hear no more tiny bubbles in the pump.....

and if you run the rad w/bottom hoses the air will remain trapped at the top of the rad.....if they are on top, the air can be forced down into the pump
September 10, 2011 11:57:08 AM

if there is air in there which is what I suspect it will always go to the top. With hoses at the top I think the pump was sucking air. Took my first unit back to compusa they replaced it. The second unit did same thing. Rotated the rad and it worked good. Now that it is working I like it well. Corsair should be able to fill these 100% then I don't think orientation would matter. Any air should be purged but the closed system is one thing that attracted me to it. Seemed maybe safer. I dunno. My first liquid cool item. Now I will learn how to oc. Air running thru the rad would not give optimal cooling so trapped at the top seems best
September 10, 2011 3:11:43 PM

The entire hydro series Inc. H50 , H60 , H70 and H100 can be installed in various ways right ?
The Corsair However recommends two most common ways :
1) on the back of the case .
2) on the top of the case .

So tell me , if there is an air inside , will it not affect the performances when rad is
installe on the top of the case ?
I'm not professional but in my opinion there shouldn't be any issues what so ever .
Whether you place it up side down or any other way .
September 11, 2011 10:37:21 AM

putting it at the top of the case should be ok. The hoses will still be at the bottom(aiming down) if there is any air it will go to the top, the pump should not suck air. Putting it at the rear of the case I would install it with the hoses at the bottom. Not a lot of people have had my problem but this should be the best way to mount. I would like to know if anybody has successfully installed one with hoses at the top and cooling properly




September 14, 2011 12:54:24 PM

what he meant was hoses at the top.....not the top fan intake/exhaust .....in which it absolutely can become air bound
September 14, 2011 1:00:20 PM

pshemax said:
The entire hydro series Inc. H50 , H60 , H70 and H100 can be installed in various ways right ?
The Corsair However recommends two most common ways :
1) on the back of the case .
2) on the top of the case .

So tell me , if there is an air inside , will it not affect the performances when rad is
installed on the top of the case ?
I'm not professional but in my opinion there shouldn't be any issues what so ever .
Whether you place it up side down or any other way .





unfortunately SOME air is a necessity....expansion and contraction of liquid makes this so......so instead of raising costs and installing a reservoir into the loop......corsiar basically does the same thing by leaving the top 1-2cm empty......

the 2 H-xx series coolers ive owned ive modded a reservoir into.....i just like messin with stuff i guess
a c 326 K Overclocking
September 15, 2011 3:53:34 PM

Liquid doesn't expand or contract unless it undergoes phase change. This is why hydraulic fluid is used for heavy machinery and brake fluid for your car's brakes...there isn't a difference at the fluid at a high temp vs. low temp and it's ability to maintain a consistent volume. If the volume were to change, this would lead to catastrophic results.
September 15, 2011 6:42:52 PM

sorry to burst your bubble buddy........liquids dont COMPRESS they ABSOLUTELY expand and contract........


Liquids "expand" when heated and "contract" when cooled.

The ideal gas law applies to liquids as well as gasses:

where p is the absolute pressure of the gas; V is the volume; n is the amount of substance; R is the universal gas constant; and T is the absolute temperature.
In SI units, p is measured in pascals; V in cubic metres; n in moles; and T in kelvin. R has the value 8.314472 J·K−1·mol−1 in SI units[4]).


Given that the liquid is in an open container, the pressure of the gas/liquid p becomes a constant in the above equation and the volume V varies directly with the temperature T.


Some may think that water "expands" when it becomes ice in violation of the above law, but the actual expansion is secondary to the trapped air bubbles inside the structure of the ice, and not actually in the frozen water itself.

Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Do_liquids_expand_when_they_a...


not my words....it was just faster to find what i already know to be true,,,, although you did make me question myself for a second.....which i like......i get to re-up on stuff

arregato gosimos
a c 326 K Overclocking
September 15, 2011 7:35:00 PM

It is not in an open container. It isn't a complete, sealed container either, but the differences in open air pressure don't apply 1:1. Also, what is the expansion/contraction rate per degree Celsius and expected volume change per degree change?

I'll accept that I was incorrect that it might expand upon temperature variation...my question now is at what rate and how does it apply to the working temperatures within a watercooling loop? Given that the actual water changes between ambient room temperature and Ambient +20C at most.
September 15, 2011 7:47:57 PM

it prolly doesnt......rubber hoses will eat up any action the volume may see....which would lead me to believe the only reason they leave so much room in the rad would be for a overheating situation.....not sure what the boiling point of the solution cool-it is using but its gotta be somewhere around 100c......while not likely that a cpu will hit that temp,,, it would need somewhere for the steam to go for that short time???
a c 326 K Overclocking
September 15, 2011 9:15:22 PM

You better hope your coolant/water never reaches 100C...it isn't the same temps being recorded by your temp monitoring.
September 15, 2011 9:33:55 PM

That's right . According to my source (depending of the liquid being used in the system )
The liquid which is in constant movement in room temperature absorbs up to 25% of the temperature . In this case the CPU would have to reach atleast 400*C for to boil
the liquid within the cooling system which is impossible :) 
September 16, 2011 2:43:45 AM

for the most part yes......but would that be true for the liquid in contact with hottest part of the waterblock???
a c 326 K Overclocking
September 16, 2011 1:54:43 PM

No, the temp readouts from your temp monitoring software are from the probe sensors for that second on the GPU or CPU...that doesn't mean there is a constant amount of heat being absorbed and transferred to the water. Water has a much better ability to absorb heat in watts than air and move it effectively, so the water should never reach the actual temps you see being posted by your monitoring software, even if you are running 100% CPU load for sustained periods of time.
a b K Overclocking
September 16, 2011 10:56:22 PM

I thought that they left air in the Rads to account for changes in elevation.
September 17, 2011 2:01:15 AM

rubix_1011 said:
No, the temp readouts from your temp monitoring software are from the probe sensors for that second on the GPU or CPU...that doesn't mean there is a constant amount of heat being absorbed and transferred to the water. Water has a much better ability to absorb heat in watts than air and move it effectively, so the water should never reach the actual temps you see being posted by your monitoring software, even if you are running 100% CPU load for sustained periods of time.



that makes sense... if that were not true---ppl could non have multiple blocks in the same loop i suppose....it'd be block/rad,,,block/rad,,,block rad just to keep the next chip in line from spiking...
a c 326 K Overclocking
September 17, 2011 3:25:56 AM

The temps of water at any point in the loop is typically within 3-5C of difference at very most...from right after a loaded CPU to right after it exists a large radiator. (This is not to be confused with the delta-T of ambient.)
February 19, 2013 5:55:55 PM

pshemax said:
Hi everyone , I have H60 hydro series cooling for my i5 2500k + Asus P8P67 pro .
My question is : which fan setup will be more effective ??
(I'll be using 2x 120mm fans on both sides of the radiator )

1) (pull-push) pulling cold air from the back of the case and with the second fan pushing it into the case ???

2) (push-pull) pulling warmer air from inside of the case and pushing it out with the second fan ??

PLEASE NOTE : I have 1x140mm front intake fan
1x120mm intake fan on the side of the case and One more fan on the top of the case which I will configure
Intake or exhaust fan , depending of the H60 setup .

What do You recommend ???
Thanx !



I can tell you this. I installed my H60 as it came packaged with one fan and i initially configured it to draw air from inside the case and after passing over the radiator out the back of the case. I reconfigured it to draw cooler air from the outside to blow over the radiator. The result was a 10 degrees celsius(18f+) drop in my CPU temp at full load. My GPU does not have high temp issues. The only mod that I did of my own was to buy an inexpensive filter and positioned it between the inside of the case and the fan. The filter can be blown clean when I do my monthly blow-out. It was close with the screws being long enough to accommodate the slight addition from the filter(I had to remove the washers which imho are not necessary anyway)You tell me. Good luck.
a c 326 K Overclocking
February 19, 2013 6:27:28 PM

This topic has been closed by Rubix_1011
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