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First time watercooling loop

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September 5, 2011 4:57:57 AM

This is my intended loop parts but as it's my first attempt i would appreciate feedback, say if parts i've chosen are crap or for some unforeseen reason won't work together.

cpu block: Swiftech Apogee XT Rev2 CPU Water Block Swiftech Apogee XT Rev2 CPU Water Block
rad: XSPC RX360 Radiator
pump: Swiftech MCP655 12V Speed Variable Pump
pump: XSPC Single 5.25in Bay Reservoir UV Blue XSPC Single 5.25in Bay Reservoir UV Blue
tubing: XSPC High Flex Hose, 1/2, Blue/UV Blue
fittings: Bitspower G1/4 Silver Shining 1/2 Fitting

One thing I'm not entirely certain on is exactly how many fittings i will need? by the looks the cpu block has fittings so i assume 2 for rad and 2 for pump and 2 for res?

For rad fans I'll prob stick a couple scythe slipstreams on there. The case i have is a haf x so I'm hoping to mount the rad in the top of the case, I'd prefer to have the entire loop inside the case, though as I'm currently using both the VGA bracket and VGA duct inside the case space is limited (tho this is also largely due to my prolimatech supermega which would no long have to be present once i go water). From what I've read running distilled water + killcoil seems to be a good idea for the liquid side of things?

The above total's at $388 on pccasegear (I'm an aussie) but if there's anything better for cheaper/comparable price I'd like to know, already a budget stretch cause this computer has cost a lot already.

Almost forgot to mention what this is cooling, my build is an i7-2600k @ 4.5ghz, z68x-ud7, 8gb(4gbx2) g skill 2133mhz, gigabyte OC2 HD 6970 @ 920mhz, corsair ax850.

Not planning to watercool my graphics card yet as this is a first attempt, if this goes well then i may extend the loop in the future.

More about : time watercooling loop

a c 159 à CPUs
a c 286 K Overclocking
September 5, 2011 3:53:42 PM

Hi.

1- For fittings you need two per components, so, two for block, two for rad and two for reservoir
2- Correct, distiller water plus Silver Killcoils are the best option for keep your loop clean.
3- If you can find PrimoChill tubing: PrimoFlex PRO LRT that's better than XSPC tubing
4- Take a look of sidewindercomputers, performance-pcs and frozencpu those stores have International shipping option and very good components. Compare prices with shipping and choose the best for you.
a b à CPUs
a b K Overclocking
September 6, 2011 1:05:00 PM

Quote:
cpu block: Swiftech Apogee XT Rev2 CPU Water Block

This is a good block. I considered this for my set up, as well as the XSPC Rasa and EK Supreme HF, but ended up going with the EK because it was the best.

Quote:
rad: XSPC RX360 Radiator

This is enough to cool a high-end single GPU. I feel like the RX240 is good enough to even support a good OC.

Quote:
pump: Swiftech MCP655 12V Speed Variable Pump

This may be a bit much for just a CPU loop IMHO. What you could look at is the XSPC Rasa RX240 kit, which is only in the ~$150 range, and the pump included fits in dual 5.25" bays (using it currently in my set up). Otherwise I'd recommend something like the MCP 350/355 since they're cheaper and you'll still get good flowrates.

Quote:
pump: XSPC Single 5.25in Bay Reservoir UV Blue

If you stick with the Swiftech pumps, there are dual bay reservoirs that can hold the pumps internally. The MCP655 needs the D5 res, and the MCP350/355 need the DDC res.

Quote:
tubing: XSPC High Flex Hose, 1/2, Blue/UV Blue

The Primochill LRT tubing is great; doesn't kink and is quite thick. I got a 10' package on Amazon for like $15 or something.

Quote:
fittings: Bitspower G1/4 Silver Shining 1/2 Fitting

If you don't get compression fittings, you will need clamps that match the OD of the tubing you get.

Quote:
One thing I'm not entirely certain on is exactly how many fittings i will need? by the looks the cpu block has fittings so i assume 2 for rad and 2 for pump and 2 for res?

As Saint19 said, you will need 2 for each component.

Quote:
For rad fans I'll prob stick a couple scythe slipstreams on there. The case i have is a haf x so I'm hoping to mount the rad in the top of the case, I'd prefer to have the entire loop inside the case, though as I'm currently using both the VGA bracket and VGA duct inside the case space is limited (tho this is also largely due to my prolimatech supermega which would no long have to be present once i go water). From what I've read running distilled water + killcoil seems to be a good idea for the liquid side of things?

Which slipstreams are you looking at? I have the highest RPM ones and they cool pretty well - you just have to deal with the noise a little.

You can use distilled water + silver killcoil or distilled + PT Nuke (Copper Sulfate - what I'm running). They both work about the same.

Quote:
Almost forgot to mention what this is cooling, my build is an i7-2600k @ 4.5ghz, z68x-ud7, 8gb(4gbx2) g skill 2133mhz, gigabyte OC2 HD 6970 @ 920mhz, corsair ax850.

Not planning to watercool my graphics card yet as this is a first attempt, if this goes well then i may extend the loop in the future.


You may want to wait then. It's easier to watercool everything at once, because you'll need to drain the loop to add a GPU block and maybe another rad.


In any case, I would recommend purchasing a Y-fitting and a plug/stop fitting, so that you have an easier way to drain the loop (especially if you're looking at cooling the GPU in the future). If your case has predrilled watercooling holes, I would try to get the fitting in there, because all you'll need to do is put that side down and pop open the fitting to drain.

I purchased mine and never installed it, and I literally ordered another 6950 + block + fittings this morning and I'm regretting it already. I'm going to have to finagle the tubing so I don't spill a ton of water everywhere.
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a b à CPUs
a c 324 K Overclocking
September 6, 2011 1:54:13 PM

RX360 rad would work well for a CPU only..even an RS360 would...You could run a CPU+GPU loop on a single RX360 with good fans and up to a minor overclock. Rads love push/pull if you can make that work...you'll see better performance with that setup.
a b K Overclocking
September 6, 2011 6:38:28 PM

@ Boiler- I think he should stick with the 655, because if he does upgrade his loop to cool more components, he will definitely want the more powerful 655 over the XSPC X20 or MCP 350.
a b à CPUs
a b K Overclocking
September 6, 2011 6:51:06 PM

orangejuice789 said:
@ Boiler- I think he should stick with the 655, because if he does upgrade his loop to cool more components, he will definitely want the more powerful 655 over the XSPC X20 or MCP 350.


Good point, though my X2O 750 (included in the higher-end Rasa kits) does well with my CPU/GPU/dual rad loop right now. It really comes down to cost IMO.
a b à CPUs
a c 324 K Overclocking
September 6, 2011 7:05:04 PM

D5 is a lot higher flow and head pressure over the X20 750, but it's still a good pump/res combo.
a b à CPUs
a b K Overclocking
September 6, 2011 10:14:01 PM

Yeah, which is why I decided to upgrade to it when I add my second 6950 (hopefully this weekend).
a b à CPUs
a c 324 K Overclocking
September 6, 2011 10:30:24 PM

In order of loop restriction:

1. MB/RAM/SB/MOSFETs, etc...those blocks are typically more restrictive than CPU blocks, but used less often.

2. CPU block is the most restrictive in a normal loop.

3. GPU blocks (universals slightly more restrictive than full-cover)

4. Fittings (typically 90's, but they are higher flow than their reputation much of the time)

5. Radiators (least restrictive)
September 7, 2011 11:23:35 AM

Firstly thanks for all the replies!

@boiler1990 the slipstreams i have on my current hsf are i think 1900rpm or so, something like 110cfm/37db kinda noisy at max speed but great airflow, i would prob just take those 2 and stick em on the rad buy another 1 for a 360 rad, or 4 if i can fit push/pull though i want it in the top of my case so would have to do some measuring.

If i can avoid using dual 5.25 drive bays i will because i have 6 bays, first 2 filled by dvd drive and fan controller and the bottom 3 I'm using as another fan intake i have a 120mm fan mounted there with blue LED's that makes my case look cool so purely for aesthetics I'm trying not to have to move it, however if i go water i guess airflow is somewhat less important.

I'll have to think over the pump downgrade because i would like to save money but if this goes well i will prob do my GPU to (just don't want to do both on my first attempt). The other thing i need to consider in this is that I've been toying with the idea of crossfiring my 6970, though not sure yet if I'll actually need a 2nd one for anything yet.

As for the fittings i might just go with compression ones then, does the EK supreme HF out perform the Swifttech one by a large margin? If it's definitely better I might swap that out to.

The reason i didn't go with the rasa kit was because i like piecing things together myself to some degree and figured I'd probably get better performance by hunting down individual parts.

As 2 of you have mentioned the tubing I'll probably swap that out to. I'll re-post my intended loop tomorrow when I get the chance.

Would the 2x200mm fans in the top of my haf x be enough for the pull part of a push/pull config on the rads? or would i be better off ripping em out and sticking more 120mm fans in there?
a b à CPUs
a c 324 K Overclocking
September 7, 2011 1:55:41 PM

Pump downgrade? I thought this was an upgrade?

Compression fittings are fittings...they don't really perform better, if anything, its aesthetics and ease of use.

Quote:
(just don't want to do both on my first attempt)


Not sure why people always say this...its a lot easier to build a loop with all your components first rather than drain your loop later and add a component and re-route your tubing and potentially have to pull your motherboard to mount the block mount bracket.
a b à CPUs
a b K Overclocking
September 7, 2011 2:41:12 PM

Quote:
Pump downgrade? I thought this was an upgrade?


He was considering the MCP655 originally, but might be thinking about something like the X2O we were discussing.

Let me clarify my intent: My original observation was that the OP was purchasing almost all of the XSPC Rasa kit parts (only differences were the pump and block), yet it was going to end up being more expensive than the kit would be. I was saying that the OP may as well purchase the Rasa kit if he were going to be buying that many parts from the Rasa kit; with a good rad like one of the RX series, the Rasa CPU block will actually work very well (granted, not as well as the Apogee XT Rev. 2 or the EK Supreme HF, but very well for the money), and XSPC X2O 750 LPH pump included in the kit works quite well for a CPU/GPU loop. If he saves money by going with the kit, he could fit in a block for the GPU and cool that as well.

That was just my 2 cents - feel free to disagree :D 

Quote:
Compression fittings are fittings...they don't really perform better, if anything, its aesthetics and ease of use.


Even though I've never used barbs, I'd argue that they're easier to use. The clamps at least seem much simpler to fasten than the compression clamps (and significantly less painful for your hands - I had to enlist my brother's help because my hands went numb/raw and I couldn't reach in some places). Using a screwdriver seems much easier ;) 

They do look really good though, I must say.

Quote:
Quote:
(just don't want to do both on my first attempt)


Not sure why people always say this...its a lot easier to build a loop with all your components first rather than drain your loop later and add a component and re-route your tubing and potentially have to pull your motherboard to mount the block mount bracket.


Agreed - adding a component essentially requires a rebuild every time. That's why I'm adding the pump/res and a second GPU + block all at once.
a b à CPUs
a c 324 K Overclocking
September 7, 2011 4:19:35 PM

Yeah, I agree with those statements. I've always used barbs...didn't want to shell out the $$ for compression fittings, although I would consider it for antithetical value.
September 8, 2011 2:20:39 AM

Quote:
Not sure why people always say this


Let my clarify, I'm terrified I'm going to stuff this up and if i fail miserably I'd prefer to limit my failure to my CPU for the first attempt, If i killed my CPU/MOBO/GPU all in one hit (I realize this is a worst case scenario and I haven't yet actually read a horror story like I'm imagining) I can't afford to replace all that gear.

You make a good point about the value in just buying a rasa kit though.

So currently looking at:


cpu block: EK Supreme HF
rad: XSPC RX360 Radiator
pump: Swiftech MCP655 12V Speed Variable Pump
res: XSPC Single 5.25in Bay Reservoir UV Blue XSPC Single 5.25in Bay Reservoir UV Blue
tubing: XSPC High Flex Hose, 1/2, Blue/UV Blue
fittings: Bitspower G1/4 Silver Shining 3/8 Compression Fitting CC3

As yet i haven't found an Aussie supplier for primochill tubing or a D5 res, also will probably ad the y fitting to the list. I haven't checked international shipping yet but if i can buy locally i will.

Does the CPU block being full nickel help? i noticed several variations on the EK Supreme HF when i was looking at CPU blocks.

Side not the reason i went blue tubbing/res is because my haf x is blue color schemed, which also goes nice with my razer naga/blackwidow/megalodon all have blue lighting. Since I've been working on this rig for like 2 months now i wish I'd taken pics for a build log.

Also is liquid cooling your motherboard really worth the effort? My ud7 has some nice looking heatsinks on it atm and as i have 16 fans total in my case atm (including psu/gpu/hsf fans) I don't see it being a benefit, but i spose it would look badass.
a b à CPUs
a b K Overclocking
September 8, 2011 3:22:05 AM

Quote:
Let my clarify, I'm terrified I'm going to stuff this up and if i fail miserably I'd prefer to limit my failure to my CPU for the first attempt, If i killed my CPU/MOBO/GPU all in one hit (I realize this is a worst case scenario and I haven't yet actually read a horror story like I'm imagining) I can't afford to replace all that gear.


Take a deep breath! It's a bit overwhelming at first, but if you plan it all through and read up on the right information it isn't as hard/scary as it seems. There's a reason leak testing comes before installation ;) 


Quote:
cpu block: EK Supreme HF
rad: XSPC RX360 Radiator
pump: Swiftech MCP655 12V Speed Variable Pump
res: XSPC Single 5.25in Bay Reservoir UV Blue XSPC Single 5.25in Bay Reservoir UV Blue
tubing: XSPC High Flex Hose, 1/2, Blue/UV Blue
fittings: Bitspower G1/4 Silver Shining 3/8 Compression Fitting CC3

As yet i haven't found an Aussie supplier for primochill tubing or a D5 res, also will probably ad the y fitting to the list. I haven't checked international shipping yet but if i can buy locally i will.


How much is the EK vs. the Apogee XT Rev.2 vs the Rasa? The differences aren't extraordinary (especially for the price), but if you're looking to get the most performance, the EK will nudge out the other two. I bought my EK Supreme HF Full Copper used, so I got it a little below XT prices (USA).

You can get some pump casings that fit reservoirs on the pump. I just got my Koolance Pump Nozzle and Reservoir Base for my MCP655 and it looks pretty cool. The reservoir part should be arriving this week hopefully, and it just screws in. EK and DangerDen both have D5 nozzles, but I'm not sure about the attachable res. It doesn't mean you will probably have to drill though (I've done enough in my case that it doesn't matter).

Quote:
Does the CPU block being full nickel help? i noticed several variations on the EK Supreme HF when i was looking at CPU blocks.

TBH I have no idea. I believe the Nickel blocks are just nickel-plated copper; however, my nickel EK GPU block transfers heat well.

Just for reference, the specific heat of nickel is higher than copper's (0.54 vs 0.39 kJ/kg-K), so technically the copper block will heat up faster.

Quote:
Side not the reason i went blue tubbing/res is because my haf x is blue color schemed, which also goes nice with my razer naga/blackwidow/megalodon all have blue lighting. Since I've been working on this rig for like 2 months now i wish I'd taken pics for a build log.


What other brands can you get? Most tubing sellers with the exception of Tygon make colored UV reactant tubing.

Quote:
Also is liquid cooling your motherboard really worth the effort? My ud7 has some nice looking heatsinks on it atm and as i have 16 fans total in my case atm (including psu/gpu/hsf fans) I don't see it being a benefit, but i spose it would look badass.

I wouldn't really worry about it if you're not doing any extra OCing of the Northbridge or something. The MCP655 would be a good pump for it though, as mobo blocks are restrictive. TBH I'm a bit jealous - I'd probably be adding the northbridge of my UD4 if they made blocks (just for the sake of doing it), but EK only has UD7 blocks.

Why do you have 16 fans??? :o 
September 8, 2011 5:13:55 AM

Quote:
Why do you have 16 fans??? :o 


Well see it sounds like a lot more then it really is. I have 3 on my graphics card because its the gigabyte OC2 model with the windforce 3 cooler, then there's 2 on my prolimatech supermega, 2 in my RAM cooler (its that g skill one, turbulance or something), 1x120mm ultra kaze in the vga duct, 1x80mm in the vga holder, 4x200mm blue LED fans (bottom front intake,side panel intake, 2 top case exhaust), 2x120mm blue LED fans(one rear exhaust, one mounted in the bottom 3 5.25inch drive bays as extra intake) and one in the power supply. I replaced all the fans that were in the case originally with blue LED ones, in case your wondering yes my computer sounds like a vacuum when i turn it on, though i do have several of the nosier ones connected to a fan controller. I guess another bonus of watercooling would be taking out loads of fans (except LED ones obviously :p )

Quote:
How much is the EK vs. the Apogee XT Rev.2 vs the Rasa?


Apogee is $85, EK supreme HF acetal/nickel is $95 and EK supreme HF full nickel is $105

Quote:
What other brands can you get?


pccasegear where i was intending to buy most of my loop only stocks tygon and xspc tubing, mwave is the other main online site i use for parts but there watercooling section is a mess to sort through tho i did see some Alphacool tubing on there. There's probably other retailers that do watercooling in Aus i just haven't discovered them yet.

As for the res if i can't find one for the pump (I'll go more googling at home I'm at work atm :p ) I also kinda liked the look of those cylindrical ones, but I'd have to find space for it inside my case, and believe me just because you buy a haf x thinking it's huge the thing fills up rather quickly if you like to use the vga mounting gear/airduct and psu coverplate. Not to mention the absolute jungle of cables hidden behind my motherboard lol.
a c 95 à CPUs
a c 224 K Overclocking
September 9, 2011 5:28:16 PM

For what it's worth, I recommend the Rasa water block over the Swiftech Apogee XT Rev2, because the Rasa is easier to disassemble and clean inside and it's base dimensions fit the 2600Ks heat spreader better.

I cannot comment on the EK blocks as I don't own them. :)  Yet.
a b à CPUs
a b K Overclocking
September 9, 2011 5:56:10 PM

Quote:
For what it's worth, I recommend the Rasa water block over the Swiftech Apogee XT Rev2, because the Rasa is easier to disassemble and clean inside and it's base dimensions fit the 2600Ks heat spreader better.


Agreed. That's why I chose the Rasa originally over the XT, and the difference in performance is extremely small (especially for the ~$15-20 price difference in the US). If I hadn't found the EK on sale I would be using the Rasa right now.

The EK is actually pretty easy to assemble, and it looks great :D  If you can spare the $10, go for the EK Supreme Ni/Acetal. Make sure to install jet plate #1 (# = number of slits in the plate) as it provides the best temperature results out of all of the included plates.
a c 95 à CPUs
a c 224 K Overclocking
September 9, 2011 6:29:11 PM

boiler1990 said:
The EK is actually pretty easy to assemble, and it looks great :D  If you can spare the $10, go for the EK Supreme Ni/Acetal. Make sure to install jet plate #1 (# = number of slits in the plate) as it provides the best temperature results out of all of the included plates.


Nice to Know! Thanks!
a c 159 à CPUs
a c 286 K Overclocking
September 9, 2011 7:26:40 PM

The jet plate #1 is the default jet plate
a c 95 à CPUs
a c 224 K Overclocking
September 9, 2011 8:00:50 PM

^ Did yours come with additional jet plates?

That #1 & #2 link you provided states because of the easy mount system the additional jet plates were removed from the box and it's shipped with the best performing jet plate?

***************************************************************

Why would EK even provide less performing Jet Plates????????
a b à CPUs
a b K Overclocking
September 9, 2011 8:29:33 PM

saint19 said:
The jet plate #1 is the default jet plate


Didn't know that - I bought mine used and just assumed that the previous owner had replaced it. Although mine is most likely a few years old.

Quote:
^ Did yours come with additional jet plates?

That #1 & #2 link you provided states because of the easy mount system the additional jet plates were removed from the box and it's shipped with the best performing jet plate?

***************************************************************

Why would EK even provide less performing Jet Plates????????


My used one came with several - I want to say 5, but I'm not certain, but they were originally packaged with the block.

Maybe they changed they figured out nobody used anything other than plate 1 and stopped wasting money making the others? I don't know what the "Easy Mount" system is, since mine probably doesn't have it. That said, the older ones didn't take that long to install (about the same as my Hyper 212+ the first time).
a b à CPUs
a c 324 K Overclocking
September 9, 2011 8:34:02 PM

Is the easy mount the same as the Intel stock cooler push/twist pins vs. bolts and backing plate?
a c 159 à CPUs
a c 286 K Overclocking
September 9, 2011 8:55:48 PM

Mine came with 5, jet plate # 1 installed and one for custom. Comes for install in an Intel rig, so, if your rig is an AMD you need change the mounting kit that also comes in the original box. Mine was bought before the easy installation system, so, idk if the current ones comes with the full jet plates package.

The reason for different jet plates is for flow restriction nothing else and keep in mind the rubber inside the block if you change the mounting system from Intel to AMD.
a c 95 à CPUs
a c 224 K Overclocking
September 9, 2011 9:09:06 PM

rubix_1011 said:
Is the easy mount the same as the Intel stock cooler push/twist pins vs. bolts and backing plate?


I hope not, that type mounting system sucks!
a c 159 à CPUs
a c 286 K Overclocking
September 9, 2011 9:11:05 PM

rubix_1011 said:
Is the easy mount the same as the Intel stock cooler push/twist pins vs. bolts and backing plate?


Nope it's very similar to the system than you use for mount LN2 pots.
!