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P55-UD3 Can't post/no beeps/restart loop

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January 30, 2010 4:15:45 AM

Please help as I'm really confused with this one.

For some reason I cannot boot with my P55-UD3 on a test bed, when I push the power switch the board powers up for only around 0.5 secs (CPU fan spinning, LEDs etc) and then it switches itself off. 5 to 6 seconds later the board restarts itself but again only for 0.5 seconds. The cycles repeat. There are no beeps or POST.

GA-P55-UD3 Rev 1.0
i7 860
Antec 850W CP-850
No RAM installed.

All components are new w/ factory defaults. PSU tested OK with another system. I've tried reseating the CPU cooler and resetting CMOS but to no avail.
a b V Motherboard
January 30, 2010 4:25:48 AM

Avantime said:
Please help as I'm really confused with this one.

For some reason I cannot boot with my P55-UD3 on a test bed, when I push the power switch the board powers up for only around 0.5 secs (CPU fan spinning, LEDs etc) and then it switches itself off. 5 to 6 seconds later the board restarts itself but again only for 0.5 seconds. The cycles repeat. There are no beeps or POST.

GA-P55-UD3 Rev 1.0
i7 860
Antec 850W GA-850
No RAM installed.

All components are new w/ factory defaults. PSU tested OK with another system. I've tried reseating the CPU cooler and resetting CMOS but to no avail.


Normally indicates initiallization issue...check to make sure the CPU power is connected first, if that's not the problem check the socket pins for damage.
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January 30, 2010 4:32:37 AM

Crashman said:
Normally indicates initiallization issue...check to make sure the CPU power is connected first, if that's not the problem check the socket pins for damage.


I'm a bit confused. CPU fan is powered (fan is spinning) and ATX power plugged in. (M/B LEDs working) I'm not aware of any other power connectors on the motherboard.

No Graphics card or RAM.
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a b V Motherboard
January 30, 2010 4:37:32 AM

Avantime said:
I'm a bit confused. CPU fan is powered (fan is spinning) and ATX power plugged in. (M/B LEDs working) I'm not aware of any other power connectors on the motherboard.

No Graphics card or RAM.


There's an 8-pin power connector for the CPU in the top left-hand corner. Also, the initiallization error could be 'failure to initialize graphics" or "failure to initialize RAM". Oh, and you shouldn't even turn on a motherboard that has no graphics or RAM, because doing so can confuse the motherboard's BIOS program to the point that you need to reset BIOS to get it to boot...after installing graphics and RAM.

Once you get the graphics and RAM, you'll need to make sure you install them right. LGA-1156 and LGA-1366 require you to use the second slot first for RAM, in your case you would use the white slots first.
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January 30, 2010 4:37:47 AM

Never mind you're correct, the cable was not properly connected. the cable was twisted in a weird way on the test bed.

Many thanks for the help.
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January 30, 2010 5:24:30 AM

Everything worked now, many thanks!

/facepalm
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a b V Motherboard
January 30, 2010 9:55:30 AM

You're welcome, I'm glad I could help.
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January 30, 2010 2:28:07 PM

I have the same problem. If someone can help me please? I'm building my new pc with a ga-p55m-ud4 motherboard with a core i5 750, 2x2GB GEIL 1.5v DDR3, Galaxy 9600GT LP. When I press the power button of the case, the computer turns on for about 0.5 seconds ( all fans are working and LEDS are active) and shuts down after 2- 3 seconds and reboots and the whole process is repeated.
In the last replay: which of your cable has not been properly connected? Do I need to connect the 20PIN+4PIN power connector AND the +12V power connector (2x4pins in the left up conner of the motherboard?)
On the 4PIN power connector of my new Zalman 360W PSU is a sticker that says:'Warning. Do not connect this cable with the 4-pin ATX12V connector! Doing so can damage the motherboard and CPU'.
I'm confused. Thanks in advance for any advice.
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a b V Motherboard
January 30, 2010 11:01:53 PM

jorritgijs said:
I have the same problem. If someone can help me please? I'm building my new pc with a ga-p55m-ud4 motherboard with a core i5 750, 2x2GB GEIL 1.5v DDR3, Galaxy 9600GT LP. When I press the power button of the case, the computer turns on for about 0.5 seconds ( all fans are working and LEDS are active) and shuts down after 2- 3 seconds and reboots and the whole process is repeated.
In the last replay: which of your cable has not been properly connected? Do I need to connect the 20PIN+4PIN power connector AND the +12V power connector (2x4pins in the left up conner of the motherboard?)
On the 4PIN power connector of my new Zalman 360W PSU is a sticker that says:'Warning. Do not connect this cable with the 4-pin ATX12V connector! Doing so can damage the motherboard and CPU'.
I'm confused. Thanks in advance for any advice.


I'm confused by that sticker too! But yes, your motherboard has either an 8-pin or 4-pin ATX12V connector that must be filled in addition to the 20+4 pin connector.

Perhaps Zalman put that sticker on the "+4" pin part of the 20+4 pin connector set?
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January 31, 2010 11:25:03 AM

Crashman said:
I'm confused by that sticker too! But yes, your motherboard has either an 8-pin or 4-pin ATX12V connector that must be filled in addition to the 20+4 pin connector.

Perhaps Zalman put that sticker on the "+4" pin part of the 20+4 pin connector set?



Hey Crashman thanks for your reply. As you said I connected the 2x4-pin ATX12V connectors and everything works! I still don't understand why Zalman placed that sticker. I will send them an email to give them some feedback on my experience. Thanks again!
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a b V Motherboard
January 31, 2010 1:08:50 PM

jorritgijs said:
Hey Crashman thanks for your reply. As you said I connected the 2x4-pin ATX12V connectors and everything works! I still don't understand why Zalman placed that sticker. I will send them an email to give them some feedback on my experience. Thanks again!


The sticker may have been there to prevent you from confusing the 4-pin part of the 24+4 pin connector with four pins of the 4+4 pin connector?
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January 31, 2010 7:29:50 PM

Crashman said:
The sticker may have been there to prevent you from confusing the 4-pin part of the 24+4 pin connector with four pins of the 4+4 pin connector?


Yes perhaps but the 24+4pin connectors are bundled together so that would be kind of strange. You'll then have to dis-bundle them... BTW I read in the manual of the Gigaboard that those 4+4pin connector are used for processors of 130W. Citation page 23 of the manual: 'Use of a power supply providing a 2x 4 12V power connector is recommended by the CPU manufacturer when using a Intel Extreme Edition CPU (130w)... Didn't know that my core i5 was extreme :) 
Anyway I'm happy now with my pc, this is the first one I've build. Thanks again.
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February 27, 2010 9:03:00 AM

Thanks Crashman, your a legend! Just built an i5 with a GA-P55-UD3 and had the same problem on first boot. Haven't built a system in about 4 years and didn't even know about the 12v connector. Its all new school to me. All lovely now. Cheers!!
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July 15, 2010 4:38:44 AM

I have the same problem but with Asus p7p55d e pro
I tired new psu , new GFX , one single slot ram , no rams , reseting CMOS from battery and reset jumper , reinstalled the cpu , no GFX and no RAM .

What ever I do , I get single short beep and then restart and so on .

The only condition I get no beeps at all is when I disconnect the sata Power cable .

I build this computer 2 weeks ago and it was beautiful , and I had to take it all apart , then I rebuilt it but this time it didn't work .It's been 5 days now trying to figure out the problem and I am completely frustrated with my new expensive pc .

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/277015-12-help-moth...

Any help ..
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a c 177 V Motherboard
July 15, 2010 6:06:58 PM

've read your other post, watched your videos, and scanned the 'list' you were given to check - man, that some list! I'm pretty well flumoxed - can't think of much that's been omitted? Thought about it for a while, and came up with just a couple niggling, tiny fragments of ideas:

1 - you mention you 'travelled with it'; but you never mentioned where? Not just being nosy - in the northern hemisphere, it's summer, and for all but a few really arid spots, the humidity levels are high enough to discourage muchstatic electricity... However, in the southern latitudes, being early-to-mid winter, the air is likely bone dry - making big sparks! I realize you said you had it padded and anti-statted, but if you were in a dry clime when you unpacked/reassembled it - I'd have a few more questions for you. I've spent the past 25 years doing industrial systems, have bounced around the globe a lot, and am trying to think back to episodes of 'travel damage' to recall 'causes & effects' - and will keep thinking... (One time, took $50,000 worth of industrial system parts to a country which shall remain nameless; smuggled them in, in plain view, in a clear plastic box, with an inventory list attached, and $5,000 cash bribe money - at three of four border crossings, my money belt got 'lighter, - but, the parts arrived with me (not three months later - 'through channels'), and were running the next day! [:bilbat:5] )

2 - if you've done the 'paper clip trick' to test the power supply, it might be worth doing again: be sure to check the status of pin eight, grey wire, 'Pwr_OK'... I recently had a failure like this, and it showed those exact same symptoms - but - unfortunately, I can not recall if I was getting the 'POST beep' each time... Here's the deal: when you power up, a timer starts; there's a comparator that 'looks' at each rail, watching voltage on the rail to 'arrive'; the seperate comarators are 'anded' together, and if the result is not 'true' by the time the timer expires, the power OK signal never 'happens' and the CPU does a reset. Was the devil's own time finding it - all the rails were good - I even load tested them a little bit (the little bit limited by my handfull of 20W resistors [:isamuelson:8] ), and only as an afterthought did I check the pin 8 signal (should be a t²l 'true' - at least 3.3V, more likely 5V)...

3 - did you have to pull the HSF to 'pack' it? Couple of times here, people have described to me what I was sure were immediate thermal shutdowns, and said they were positive the HSF install was good - and, upon closer inspection, both turned out to have cracked locking pins - barely visible to the naked eye. The usual characteristic of these reboots is that they get slightly closer together as they progress (usually); couple I've heard of gave the POST beep at first, but after about the fifth or sixth reset, came close enough together that they quit finishing the POST, and failed to beep, before the thermal shutdown happened and reset...

I'll keep thinking - the one good thing is that it is POSTing - that's always a good thing! ;) 
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July 16, 2010 8:07:44 AM

bilbat said:
've read your other post, watched your videos, and scanned the 'list' you were given to check - man, that some list! I'm pretty well flumoxed - can't think of much that's been omitted? Thought about it for a while, and came up with just a couple niggling, tiny fragments of ideas:

1 - you mention you 'travelled with it'; but you never mentioned where? Not just being nosy - in the northern hemisphere, it's summer, and for all but a few really arid spots, the humidity levels are high enough to discourage muchstatic electricity... However, in the southern latitudes, being early-to-mid winter, the air is likely bone dry - making big sparks! I realize you said you had it padded and anti-statted, but if you were in a dry clime when you unpacked/reassembled it - I'd have a few more questions for you. I've spent the past 25 years doing industrial systems, have bounced around the globe a lot, and am trying to think back to episodes of 'travel damage' to recall 'causes & effects' - and will keep thinking... (One time, took $50,000 worth of industrial system parts to a country which shall remain nameless; smuggled them in, in plain view, in a clear plastic box, with an inventory list attached, and $5,000 cash bribe money - at three of four border crossings, my money belt got 'lighter, - but, the parts arrived with me (not three months later - 'through channels'), and were running the next day! [:bilbat:5] )

2 - if you've done the 'paper clip trick' to test the power supply, it might be worth doing again: be sure to check the status of pin eight, grey wire, 'Pwr_OK'... I recently had a failure like this, and it showed those exact same symptoms - but - unfortunately, I can not recall if I was getting the 'POST beep' each time... Here's the deal: when you power up, a timer starts; there's a comparator that 'looks' at each rail, watching voltage on the rail to 'arrive'; the seperate comarators are 'anded' together, and if the result is not 'true' by the time the timer expires, the power OK signal never 'happens' and the CPU does a reset. Was the devil's own time finding it - all the rails were good - I even load tested them a little bit (the little bit limited by my handfull of 20W resistors [:isamuelson:8] ), and only as an afterthought did I check the pin 8 signal (should be a t²l 'true' - at least 3.3V, more likely 5V)...

3 - did you have to pull the HSF to 'pack' it? Couple of times here, people have described to me what I was sure were immediate thermal shutdowns, and said they were positive the HSF install was good - and, upon closer inspection, both turned out to have cracked locking pins - barely visible to the naked eye. The usual characteristic of these reboots is that they get slightly closer together as they progress (usually); couple I've heard of gave the POST beep at first, but after about the fifth or sixth reset, came close enough together that they quit finishing the POST, and failed to beep, before the thermal shutdown happened and reset...

I'll keep thinking - the one good thing is that it is POSTing - that's always a good thing! ;) 



1-thanks for your reply

2-When I took it apart , I was at Egypt , I took the mother board with the cpu on it and put in the mobo box but with no plastic bag around it ,just the mobo and cpu on in the box , then into my small hand bag .I traveled to Saudi Arabia .I had the bag all the time to make sure it's safe .

The short beep is always the same , even if I powered the system with no rams at all , The only condition the beep is gone , when I disconnect the sata power cable from the HDD although the HDD is not even connected to the mobo !!

3-When I rebuilt the pc again and the problem occured , I tested the occ 600 on a very old pc , it didn't work .So ,I thought it had some problem , so I bough GIGABYTE SUPERB 720 and tested it on the same old pc and it worked fine .I didn't try the paper clip trick , I don't know how to do it ?

I didn't understand anything of this part """Here's the deal: when you power up, a timer starts; there's a comparator that 'looks' at each rail, watching voltage on the rail to 'arrive'; the seperate comarators are 'anded' together, and if the result is not 'true' by the time the timer expires, the power OK signal never 'happens' and the CPU does a reset. Was the devil's own time finding it - all the rails were good - I even load tested them a little bit (the little bit limited by my handfull of 20W resistors [:isamuelson:8] ), and only as an afterthought did I check the pin 8 signal (should be a t²l 'true' - at least 3.3V, more likely 5V)..."""

4-I did try to reseat the cpu and cpu fan , I am pretty sure it stable but I didn't change the the paste and nothing works and the problem is the same .The cpu fan spins for 2-3 seconds then the cpu led truns red just before rebooting and so on .

5-I tried to clear CMOS by removing the battery and CMOS jumper and it didn't work .

6-""I'll keep thinking - the one good thing is that it is POSTing - that's always a good thing! ;) ""
VERY WELL SAID !!
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a c 177 V Motherboard
July 16, 2010 4:17:34 PM

Well, we've got a few clues here - they don't mean anything to me yet, but I've found the subconscious mind is an awesomely powerful tool [:fixitbil:9] - sometimes!

1 - the beep with no memory - this should not happen, you should get a long and a short, if anything...

2 - the business with the drive cable... Let me see if I'm clear about what is happening here: you have the actual SATA data cable disconnected, but disconnecting the power cable to the drive 'makes the beep vanish'? If I'm coorectly understanding this, this is extrememy strange - and should make something (hpoefully, eventually [:bilbat:9] ) 'jump out' at me!

3 - if your PSU works in another system, it's damn near eliminated as the problem source - but, I'll try to explain a little better: knowledge is never a bad thing - and, never know - juat might make something 'jump out' at you!

Your power supply is 'subdivided' into a few (or several) seperate smaller systems. There has to be, at least, a circuit/regulator for each voltage that it is capable of producing; each of these 'sub-supplies' is referred to as a 'rail' - i.e., "the 12V rail", "the 5V rail"... A modern system mainly 'sucks its power' from the 12V supply, so many power supplies, these days, have more than one "12V rail" - say, one rail for the main board power, another for the PCIe vidcard power connectors, another for the drives and auxilliary (fans and such) power.

When the system powers up, the power supply turns on, and gives the board/CPU a 'signal' to say: "I'm up and running, and all of my 'sub-supplies' are good!" This is done on pin eight (gray) of the main 20+4, or 24 pin connector - the signal is called, aptly, "PWR_OK". The ATX specification says the PSU has one-half second, from the 'turn on' command, until this signal is given...

A comparator is a little bit of 'canned' circuitry that, well, as it's named, 'compares things'! There are ones that compare voltage, or current (and if you're not an 'electrical type', I have posted a simplified tutorial to electrical measurements and terms, Electrical Basics for Computers); there are ones that compare two (or more) 'signals', and there are ones that compare a signal to a 'known' (or set) value - and these happen to be the kind we need here!

So - the 'turn on' command is given; a half-second electronic timer is started... A number of comparators 'check' the voltage of each rail, and (hopefully), each one 'says' - "yes - I'm good!" If all of them agree, and all say OK, then the PSU turns on that (pin 8) PWR_OK signal, to the board/CPU - BUT, if the half-second timer expires before the signal 'goes good', the board tries to do a reset, to see if perhaps, 'on the next try', it might work!

Do you currently have the board 'out of the case' for ease of testing? (I have an interim procedure to suggest - will be different 'in' or 'out' of the case...)
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July 16, 2010 7:46:38 PM

Right now , the board is inside the case ,but I can get it out if we need so .
NB , the system I used to test both PSUs is very old ,Pentium I think , Is it considered as a testing system ?
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July 16, 2010 8:08:43 PM

I'd like to add one more thing
My first PSU _ OCZ 600_ when I tested it on the old pc , was strange .
When you connect the 4 bin cable of cpu , the system doesn't work .
When you disconnect this cable , it works but of course no boot .

The 2nd PSU _ Gigabyte 720 _ runs normally on this system
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a c 177 V Motherboard
July 17, 2010 6:10:00 PM

Quote:
NB , the system I used to test both PSUs is very old ,Pentium I think , Is it considered as a testing system ?

So long as it uses a 24-pin power plug (not the older 20), and an ATX12V connector (either 4 or 8 pin), I'm fairly sure it'll do...

Quote:
My first PSU _ OCZ 600_ when I tested it on the old pc , was strange .
When you connect the 4 bin cable of cpu , the system doesn't work .
When you disconnect this cable , it works but of course no boot .

The 2nd PSU _ Gigabyte 720 _ runs normally on this system

I think this tells us: "stick with the 2nd power supply for any more testing!"

At this point, I would remove the board from the case, and place it nearby, if the power and front panel wires from the case will reach far enough to connect - if they're too short, it may be time to take a picture, and I'll see if I can figure something out... I think, at this point, you will want to get (or borrow) a hmm - scratch that - normally, on a system with an AMI BIOS, at this point I would recommend installing a floppy drive - to see if the BIOS is corrupted, and trying to do a 'recover' - the 'telltale' sign is that, with a floppy plugged in, the floppy access LED will light up, telling us the BIOS is attempting 'boot block recovery' - but - board doesn't appear to have a floppy connector? Can you confirm? If no connector, I will try to 'regroup' and find out what the alternative (if any) is...

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July 17, 2010 8:53:45 PM

Okay . I'll buy a floppy drive ( Idon't have one ) , should I plug in any floppy or a floppy with the bios ?

Right now , I got the mobo out on a paper box with the CPU , one stick of ram , 7200 GS instead of GTX 470 to provide more power for the system ,24 pin cable connected ,8 pin cable connected , HSF connected .

I powered the system with my screwdriver , no beeps at all , keeps restarting , no leds are turned on .

The only activated leds are CPU led (it turns on when I power the system and then turned off and then turned on again on restarting , 2 seconds later this occurs again and again....etc.
The green led is on indicating power in the mobo .

I tried to run the system with no rams at all but it's exactly the same .
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a c 177 V Motherboard
July 17, 2010 10:04:15 PM

Don't get a floppy yet - I don't think the board has a floppy interface port - will confirm once I see that the NE pointer is the same board as the manual I've downloaded...
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July 17, 2010 10:42:22 PM

Okay , thanks .
Asus CrashFree Bios 3 Utility , Do you know this ?
They say that If I pop in the mobo cd , it will recover the bios automatically .
Is this true ? (chapter 3-page 5) .
We have to problems here , The first I don't have the cd , the 2nd If got the cd (I think from asus site ) ,will this fix the problem if it's caused by the bios ?

It also says if inserted USB-flash drive loaded with the bios , it will recover it self .

Do I have to enter the bios to use this feature ?
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July 17, 2010 10:59:45 PM

If no then it worth trying , if yes then I am dying !!

I read this link about the feature
http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/70427/

It seems there is no need to enter the bios to fix it but the problem we have here
1-My pc ic not even POSTing . will this be a problem ?
2-It restarts every 3 seconds .This must be a problem !!

Fist , let's make sure it's a bios problem .
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July 18, 2010 3:04:29 AM

By the way I found other people with the same problem exactly but the replaced the mobo at the end and no one tried to fix the bios !!
I downloaded P7P55D-E-PRO-ASUS-0910.ROM from ASUS site .
Now what should I do ?
Just write the file on a cd AND NOTHING ELSE ?
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a c 177 V Motherboard
July 19, 2010 2:27:27 PM

Just wanted you to know - I have not forgotten your problem; it's just very difficult to acquire any kind of 'hard' info on BIOS in general. I'm trying to find out exactly who supports what, as far as recovery options, but I am hampered by three things:

First, BIOS makers don't sell, or support, 'to the public' - they 'build' BIOS, sell the source code to the board manufacturers, who then modify it to suit their particular needs and hardware - and finding out "who's done what, when" is mostly a matter of inference from various docs - I've said it before, and will certainly say it again: "I'd kill to have source code to a modern BIOS - anybody's BIOS, for anything!"; I'm sure it would lead to six months of repeatedly reading and re-reading some stub of code, scratching my head, and saying "...so that's why such-and-such happens!"

Second, I've sort of 'commited to' GIGABYTE boards, so not only are ASUS' 'alien' to me, but all my 'information collection' means are 'aimed' at GB's, so just finding where to get info is a challenge - and, all my recent experience is with Award BIOS, so AMI, too, is alien as well...

Third, someone else, in the posting you 'pointed me at' mentioned a problem that is, if I recall, one of the reasons I went with GIGABYTE in the first place - I use a ggogle accelerator to find your board - it 'points me' at a NewEgg site, which is fine by me, as they always have a product link; the product link doesn't 'point at' a product, but dumps you onto a general ASUS site, that's slow as molasses; type the part number into ASUS' search bar, 'spits you' back to the same page; find the board category, and get a listing of various boards, click on the specific board's link - oops! back to the main 'generic' page; struggle around another ten minutes, finally find their downloads for the board (EEEKKK - have to 'select an operating system' to get to the MANUAL?!?!), try to DL the manual - pops up a message saying 'site is too busy, try back later or P2P'; their P2P doesn't work with my setup; and on and on and on...

3-5 does look like it's worth trying, and, yes, it appears that all you need is the BIOS file - pretty sure the name doesn't matter, just leave the extension the same; if you have the CD that shipped with the board, it would be even better - just in case they 'place' the BIOS for recovery somplace particular, like, maybe, at track 0 or 1... Glad you mentioned that - the fact that I found what you're mentioning means, hallelujah, I've likely got, at least, the correct manual!

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July 19, 2010 3:51:18 PM

Thanks for your reply ,I thought for a second you left me alone !!

This is my first and probably the last time with ASUS , I saw a guy on Youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LirQ-oM9XBI
using ASUS CRASH FREE UTILITY and it's kinda different , absolutely different !!
First my system restarts , 2nd I don't have any output on the monitor to know the bios file name which the mobo search for , 3rd I don't have the manual cd .

You know what ?! I am thinking of buying a new mobo to run the system for the next 2 months GIGABYTE H55M-S2H .It's sold for 100 $ , the cheapest !! .
When I travel back , I'll RMA the mobo .

Thanks alot and sorry If I caused you any trouble (of course I did, at least ASUS site did ) looooool .

Till now I am just thinking of buying the new board . If you have no more Ideas to try , I will buy the S2H .
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July 23, 2010 3:44:52 AM

I got the H55M-S2H yesterday , I replaced the mobo and then to safe mode to detecet the new mobo with no problems and then to normal windows 7 and every thing is working fine .
Thanks a lot Mr billbat .
If you can help me with this , I'll be very grateful .
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/293753-15-detects-m...

It's not a big one .
Thanks .
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March 22, 2011 1:05:39 PM

I have the same issue, my new build is stuck in a reboot loop and I don't know what I'm missing.
I have:
- GA-H55M-UD2H LGA 1156 H55 (gigabyte MB)
- Core i3 550 3.2GHz Socket 1156

Any help would be appreciated.
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June 24, 2012 5:29:53 AM

You guys Rock thank you so much!
:bounce: 
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