Help from you experts

Ok so I am a Big Time gamer and understand Things like my VID card, RAM, Cooling for OC are a must for a gaming rig...I play FPS, World of Warcraft (Heavy Graphics in there) etc.

I need help specing out a new Desktop computer as my main rig...I have a budget of 1500-1800 dollars. I have a keyboard/Mouse so do not need those (Have a g15 and/or a Merc Stealth keyboard)I have a 17" monitor but want to upgrade to like a 24" but that can come later if need be...

Please help me spec this out..I am sure you all get a ton of requests for this stuff but I consider you all experts on this.


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  1. Nice list Hunter. I think that would fit the OP pretty well
  2. hunter315 said:

    Thanks for the awesome response...Do you think it would be a good idea to run the VID card you listed in a Xfire setup since I will have about 300 more to play with in cash on top of what you listed? Maybe do a water cool system for the processor and or Vid card(s) to allow for some overclocking?
  3. Only thing I would switch is the Antec 900 for an Antec 1200 - Full tower case = more room to play with :D
  4. $300 is a good amount for doing a WCing loop for CPU if you wish.

    GTZ+MCP655+res+320 rad + tygon+3x120mm fans would be about $260-280.

    Only go for WCing if you plan to do some serious OCing or looking for a quiet system.

    For more info on WCing:
    Conumdrum said:
    I'll just snip the whole thing, I just redid parts of it.

    Us guys have done the WC thing, there are basics you gotta know. Take a look, don't take it as a diss on you or a rebuttal, look at as a friend saying "Dude, you gotta know what to say and how to communicate".
    CPU HS $65
    GPU HS and air HS for vram and mosfets $95, full cover block, $100-$200
    Radiator $60 min, up to $130
    Pump $50 +
    Resiviour $25
    Hose, some barbs and clamps etc (min $25, more like $35)
    Fans $15-30

    I went top notch and spent close to $600 to cool my CPU and GPU.
    First you gotta learn about WC. It's not like walking into Best Buy.
    Spend a while (weeks is best for your sanity) at these links.
    Look at the hundreds of loops close to your case and components in the stickies, read a couple 50 or so threads over the next week or so, you'll be on the ball to make the right choices and by then know how to put it together.
    Not 'Roket Sience', but basic knowledge is required.
    And you should spend a few hours on the listed sites reading threads. It's how we learn. Once the goodies show up on your doorstep your on your own.
    For your benefit please spend a few days reading a LOT. At the busiest places for WC masters. Guys who have done it for YEARS at OC Forums and xtreme forums. It took me a while (I was OCing on air, aftermarket stuff, bios settings, best chipsets etc etc) to learn the language and the tricks to a easy install.

    Don't expect miracles or SUPER DOOPER over clocks. What you will get is a quiet system that can handle OC to the max of your hardware IF you buy quality and buy smart. And minor maintenance too, a bonus for the water cooler.

    Also while there please read on case mods etc. The radiators are not for small cases, pumps and hose routing, wire management and other things are important. Google your planned case and the word water-cooled in one line. You might get lucky.
    Edit: The next paragraph was from 2008. With the advent of the HOT i7 and bigger GPU's, it has changed. A 220 size MIN rad for an i7, you want big overclocks, better go 320 sized rad.

    IF you just cool your CPU and your NB if you want, you can get by with a 120.2 sized radiator (RAD). And MAYBE fit in inside depending on your mod skillz. You want to cool your GPU too, you'll need a 120.3 sized rad, and it probably won't fit inside. The rear external rad really works great. No matter what your adding 10lbs to your PC.

    Once you got an idea of what is good/bad then start getting your system for WC put together and we'll be glad to help.
    Here is the poop on solid info on air/water temps. The link is to an MCR320.
    Scroll half way down and you can see the in/out air diff on the chart. It depends, like I said on fannage what the out air temp vs. the in temp is.

    You can also see the water in/out is very close in temps. No more than 1.5 C. Amazing eh? I thought so too once I deciphered the charts.

    So if you put a second rad with good airflow, you still get good results. Fannage needs to be higher to compensate for the increased air restriction. Meaning double fans on the rad setup, but it's a viable solution.

    Equilibrium (tough word) means with a set heat load (idle/load) after an amount of time temps in a WC loop will stabilize. The heat load is the same, ambient air is the same, fannage is the same, pumps are the same, size of rads are the same, temps will stabilize for those conditions. Any of these parameters change, it has to stabilize. …………………………………………………………
    Cleaning a loop, not a new loop: I do this once a year, I drain and refill at 6 months, the next time I do this……..
    Wash hands very well, getting rid of hand oils.
    For pumps and blocks, fittings, clamps, acrylic res/block parts.... not hose, tear it to smallest pieces, put in a bowl, heat water up not to boiling add 10% vinegar, when hot, pour over parts. Rinse in 10 min or so. Put aside.
    The bocks will probably have some black oxidation. Take the copper parts out of the pile of parts you took out of the water. Dry well and pour ketchup on them, and set aside. Only the copper parts need this.
    Rad cleaning: fill with very almost boiling hot water. Let sit 10 minutes, drain half out and shake for 5 min. Repeat till liquid is clean.
    All the pump, block, fittings, and clamps, inspect, get in the tiniest corners with a tooth brush. Kind of meditative, time consuming, you learn a lot about o-ring size, how it all feels. Run a rag using a caat hanger and dish soap through the tubing, rinse well.
    Rinse all the parts and hose with distilled, dry then really dry with an air compressor (nice extra step to get rid of water spots). Don’t need to dry the inside of the hose.
    Now on to the copper parts, they should have been soaking an hour or two. A toothbrush and ketchup should clean much of the oxidation. It probably won’t be like new, but pretty darn good. Rinse, dry, and blow the parts.
    That’s it.
    Benching software and such is very varied. I use these for each purpose:
    These are pretty standard and used by many.
    Monitoring the PC temps overall: HWmonitor aka hardware monitor
    CPUZ for CPU info
    GPUZ for GPU info
    CPU only: RealTemp
    GPU only: ATI Tool, I have a Nivida GTX280, so it works on Nvidia

    Loading/benching tools:
    CPU loaders: Prime95 and OCCT
    GPU Loaders: ATI Tool and the best one is Furmark, nothing pushes the GPU harder right now.
    Benching for overall graphics/gaming performance is 3DMark06
    Guides Pretty up to date info and buying guide Another good guide What to do once all the stuff is in the door

    Forums Not a noob site, but great stickies My fav, good peeps, know their stuff, less hardcore [...] opic=20277 A GREAT Europe site Decent site

    Tests on equipment, not reviews, truly scientific tests [...] n&ie=UTF-8 Info on rad testing More rad testing Host for Martins lab and some newer tests Test results, very technical

    Stores [...] e&Itemid=1
  5. Lets see what we come up with.

    Mobo/CPU/Ram Combo
    1. ASUS P6T: $239.99
    2. Intel BX80601920: $279.99
    3. OCZ Technology, Inc. OCZ3G1600LV6GK: $99.99
    4. Intel Intel BunnyPeople: $19.99

    Combo Discount: -$81.99
    Combo Price: $557.97 Free Shipping*
    $10.00 Mail-In Rebate

    Two other Case choices
    COOLER MASTER HAF 922 RC-922M-KKN1-GP Black $99.99 Free Shipping*

    COOLER MASTER Storm Scout SGC-2000-KKN1-GP $89.99 Free Shipping*

    PSU need if you wish to SLI or Crossfire
    CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W Power Supply $119.99 ($99.99 after $20.00 Mail-In Rebate) Free Shipping*

    CPU HSF Cooler
    XIGMATEK Dark Knight-S1283V 120mm Long Life Bearing CPU Cooler - Retail $44.98 Free Shipping*

    Noctua NT-H1 Thermal Compound - Retail $9.99

    Would go with this HDD.
    Western Digital Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache $74.99 Free Shipping

    Here is a Monitor that might work for you.
    ASUS VW246H Black 24" 2ms(GTG) HDMI Widescreen LCD Monitor Built in Speakers $199.99 Free Shipping*

    Another Monitor Option.
    ASUS VK266H Black 25.5" 2ms(GTG) HDMI Widescreen LCD Monitor w/ Built in Speakers $309.99 ($279.99 after $30.00 Mail-In Rebate)

    XFX HD-489A-ZDFC Radeon HD 4890 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Retail $199.99 (Double Lifetime warranty)

    Couple of nVidia card options, when in SLI they are faster then the GTX 295
    ASUS ENGTX260 MATRIX/HTDI/896MD3 GeForce GTX 260 896MB $199.99 ($179.99 after $20.00 Mail-In Rebate)

    EVGA 896-P3-1257-AR GeForce GTX 260 Core 216 Superclocked Edition $189.99 ($159.99 after $30.00 Mail-In Rebate) Free Shipping*

    You will need this Cable extension for bottom mounted PSU.
    1ST PC CORP. 12" 8-pin EPS extension cable Model CB-8M-8F - Retail $8.99

    Now to the Operating System. My suggestion would be to download Windows 7RC and then buy the full version when it comes out. You should get the 64-bit version, but if that is too much of a chore, then go with Vista Prem. 64-bit.

    Download Link for Windows 7 RC

    Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium SP1 64-bit for System Builders w/ Tech Guarantee $109.99 Free Shipping*

    Microsoft Windows 7 Professional Full - Retail $299.99 Free Shipping* (Release Date:10/22/2009)

    Price Breakdowns'
    Price with Haf 922, Win7 RC 64-bit and w/o OS and Graphic Card : $996.95
    Price with Haf 922, Vista Prem. 64-bit OS but without Graphic Card : $1106.94

    Pick between ATI or nVidia graphic cards' that you would like, there is even room to do Crossfire or SLI and be in your price range.

    MIR's Total is $30.00
    (Prices above do not figure Shipping Cost and MIR's.)

    ps : Did not figure in Graphic Cards MIR's.
    pss : Did not figure MIR for Monitor Option, you would have to change out price for the one I spec in the build.

    Hope this helps you out some. :sol:
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