Power Supply Failure???

Need system specs, including the PSU, to determine what size - and therefore cost - of a replacement PSU.

Next - troubleshooting boot problems:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/ [...] t-problems

The following is a cut 'n paste from a previous post:
Try to verify (as well as you can) that the PSU works. If you have a multimeter, you can do a rough checkout of a PSU using the "paper clip trick". You plug the bare PSU into the wall. Insert a paper clip into the green wire pin and one of the black wire pins beside it. That's how the case power switch works. It applies a ground to the green wire. Turn on the PSU and the fan should spin up. If it doesn't, the PSU is dead.

If you have a multimeter, you can check all the outputs. Yellow wires should be 12 volts, red 5 volts, orange 3.3 volts, blue wire -12 volts, purple wire is the 5 volt standby.

The gray wire is really important. It sends a control signal called something like "PowerOK" from the PSU to the motherboard. It should go from 0 volts to about 5 volts within a half second of pressing the case power switch. If you do not have this signal, your computer will not boot. The tolerances should be +/- 5%. If not, the PSU is bad.

Unfortunately (yes, there's a "gotcha" ), passing all the above does not mean that the PSU is good. It's not being tested under any kind of load.


Having said all of that, from what you have written so far, you could have a bad PSU. That's why you need to do more troubleshooting.

If you know that you are going to upgrade to an i7 core, SLI'd system, a 750 watt PSU is a good place to start. I prefer Corsair, however.

I suspect the power supply. If it was your mobo, it would have switched on and off without posting. The fans would have spin and your case leds turned on.

Jump on the PC P&C ASAP.

*EDIT* or at least when possible, either the seasonic or pc p&c are better than any ultra product I've had.