What sort of CPU temps should I be getting (i5 2500k)?

CPU: i5 2500k (no overclock... yet)
Motherboard: ASRock Extreme3 Gen3
CPU temp: 33.5c (idle)
Room temp: 21c

I only just literally 5 minutes ago hooked up the watercooling and powered the pump on, it's probably been on for less than 5 minutes. I have white tubing so I can't see if there are any bubbles in it but I can see a lot of small (and 1 big one) air bubbles in the res so I'm assuming the tubes will have more. And I think there is a lot of air in the cpu block because I can still hear it bubbling inside.

Anyway, I have a Black Ice GT 240mm radiator cooling just the CPU. As for the fans I have 2 Noctua NF-P12s in push/pull and then a single XSPC fan (came with kit) in pull. The radiator is mounted on the inside of the case in a Corsair 650D.

The current CPU temp reading is 33.5c and motherboard is 33c (this is reading off the motherboard software before boot. Does that sound about right or should it be lower? My room temperature is 21c

I would have thought it would be a bit lower but I'm assuming under load is when watercooling really shines.

EDIT: The CPU temp is now switching between 34c and 34.5c
36 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about what sort temps 2500k
  1. cool... what is the price of i5...

    i just want to buy one...!

    ipad 2 case|iPhone 4s Case|iPhone 4 Case
  2. I paid $219 aus, its probs cheaper in US, know anything about those temps tho? :P are they ok? They are increasing, its now up to 35.5c
  3. 33.5 degree C is OK
  4. but for idle cooled by a dual 120mm rad? I thought it be lower
  5. you want to get all teh air out of your system. if the air is not being forced out then perhaps the pump is not functioning properly. I find the pump at the bottom with teh rez at the top feeding the pump is the best way to go. run the pump out to the rad and the rad to the CPU block back to the rez.

    I LC my i7 860 with a swift tech apelge block and 3/4" tubing using a 24V pump and a 3X120MM dual pass rad with 3 95CFM turbine fans on it. i use a dual 5.25" rez. this runs my i7 at 12C in the winter, 16C in the fall and 30C in the summer. normal use never goes above 35C and full prime load stays around 57C. stock speed is 2.8 its running at 4.9-5.1Ghz 4.9 is stable, 5.1 when i want to brag in cpuz (i need to brag fast or i see blue). (i forget how i spell all this crap so im sure my brand names/models are misspelt).

    I use arctic cooling MX5 goop and distilled water with 3ppm PT nuke biocide.
  6. Not necessarily, but idle don't matter too much anyway. Load is where it counts. I bet if you load up prime or linx etc and run all threads at 100% you won't go over 50-55c.

    For example my i7 930 @4.011ghz idles around 38-42 depending on room temp. Loads up to about 60c on the hottest core and 53c on the coldest. Water cooling is amazing for keeping the idle-load delta nice and low. As long as the rad doesn't get saturated load temps don't waver much.

    For reference to the post above i run a swiftech 320 triple rad with pump which is the mcp355 iirc. My water block is the swiftech apogee xt i think, been a while. Also use 3 Gelid 1500rpm fans, so nothing crazy. Pretty low speed actually for a rad. 3/4 Primochill tubing, tubing is antimicrobial, big plus :) Have Bitspower Silver Compression fittings also antimicrobial.

    I run Distilled water and a little Hydrx no prevent any form of growth. Over a year without changing the water and temps haven't budged. No sign of any buildup either.
  7. ok so I'll test it with prime tomorrow (don't actually have a working keyboard at the moment so its a bit of a pain). The way I have it set up is Res>pump>radiator>cpu>res. A lot of air already came out by itself but I'm having a hard time getting the rest of the bubbles out.

    Temps are up to 36c now, I'm sure somethings wrong here, probably just the air but like I said I'm having a hard time getting rid of it all in the loop.
  8. the air will work it self out over time. generally take a couple days of running and power cycling. dont worry about 36c, when you prime you want to check and make sure the whole chip is getting cooled evenly. the type of good used is also critical to good heat transfer. on my chip i dropped 7C by switching from dynex compound to Arctic cooling MX2 and a further 3C by going form MX2 to MX5 compound. (i tested all 3 just to see the difference)
  9. Yeh I just remembered when I was applying the thermal paste I think I might have put a bit too much on. I cleaned off the stock stuff and put on the stuff that came with the XSPC cooling kit but I have no idea what brand or quality it is. When I add another radiator and GPU to the loop I think I'll re-do the thermal paste or even buy some high end stuff.

    Anyway, I'll report back tomorrow when I get the temps while running prime.
  10. use a credit card to spread an even coat of goop.
  11. That's what I did, ended up being pretty darn even, but I think its too thick
  12. it should be paper thin, as thin as you can get it with out cleaning off the chip. some small slices through the compound is not an issue as when the heatsink is latched down it will spread out the peaks on either side of hte vallys and coat evenly
  13. I re-applied the thermal paste using the pea method which seemed better in the youtube videos I watched (as opposed to the spread method I did before). So far it doesn't seem like temps are any better but I think it takes a bit for the paste to start working properly. I forgot to take a photo of how much I had before but this is how much I put on this time, is it too much again?

    Also, when I looked at the bottom of the plate on the block there were some rusty looking marks on it. It wasn't much and not like 'holy crap thats rusty' but it was visible, would that affect the temps by a lot?
  14. I also took a photo of the res with all the bubbles in it. Tilting the case doesn't help getting rid of them, any ideas on what I could do?

  15. those are tiny, could be caused by a small air leak on a gasket somewhere in teh system or just residual air hanging around in teh pump or at the top of a line. i useto use the pea method but i found iwth high end goop the viscosity was so high that it would not spread to the Corners of the cpu.

    This could be the best temps your LC kit can handel as well. its all luck of the draw with the CPU for how smooth the chip really is and that effects cooling with the water block.

    give it a bit of a shake, pinch the lines and try to force the air though. if you have your rad vertical then you could be getting an air pocket in it at the top. i like to run my LC system disconnected, water block off, rad out of case, and move things around for awhile untill the air is out. then i plug it together and hook up PC power.
  16. What about my fan configuration? At the moment I have the fans pulling air into my case thru the rad, would I get better temps if I switched it around? I guess I should try for myself.
  17. you want fans pushing air into the rad and out into space, not into the case.
  18. ok so after flipping the fans around and letting it run a while with the new thermal paste it seems to be sitting at 31/32c. It would be nice to get a couple degrees lower seeing as my room temp is 21c but I guess I can't complain too much
  19. what are your load temps?
  20. ~10c over ambient on water or air is plenty good.
  21. it sounds like the type of cooling you want is cascade compression. however you do not need this. odds are you wont even max out your current liquid cooling.
  22. What software should I use to test load temps ?
  23. go download prime95 64bit and core temp. run prime with max heat gen and keep core temp open. speed fan works too i suppose.
  24. testing it at the moment.

    10 minutes in:

    Core #0: 43c
    Core #1: 46c
    Core #2: 48c
    Core #3: 49c
    Package: 49c
  25. Is the running small fft? Mine usually runs hottest with that. Either way that looks really good.
  26. I'm testing it with Intel Burn Test with stress level on maximum. I'll test it with Prime next and bring up some screen shots
  27. that looks fine, now its time to over clock and see how high you can go.
  28. Final temps (about 40 min test time):
    Core #0: 44c
    Core #1: 48c
    Core #2: 50c
    Core #3: 49c

    Did someone say overclocking? :bounce: :bounce: :bounce:

    I have no idea what I'm doing here haha

    What sort of intervals should I be changing the Ratio by?
    Other options I have are:
    Internal PLL Overvoltage
    Intel SpeedStep Technology
    Turbo Boost Power Limit
    Additional Turbo Voltage
    Core Current Limit
    Host Clock Override (BCLK)
    Spread Spectrum
  29. ^Those are just for CPU Control
  30. Best answer
    turn off spread spectrum, turn off tubo, turn off speed step, turn off CE1, set to low Vdroop. increase multiplier one at a time. go from 26 to 27 to 28. i would think its safe to start at 35 but just take it slow and move it up, running prime for 2 min or so each clock up. once you get a BSOD or crash then up voltage by a fractiona dn try again. watch your temps, make sure you dont over heat. i run 5Ghz without breaking 61C on my LC system i7 860 so i would think your temps should be around 60 ish full load. if you go over 70C then your LC is being over loaded. you can still run at 70C but LC should be able to keep the CPU below that up until the rad gets over loaded. keep in mind that max flow rate out of your pump is not always the best. my pump has a dial on it to adjust the flow rate, check if you have one. if the water moves to fast then it cant absorb the heat.

    do not OC ram, FSB, or video untill you get your CPU stable. then go back and OC your ram. the sandys dont like OC on your FSB, dont even both with it. you will max at 7mhz or so increase. once thats done then go dig into your video card the same way you did your CPU. try to keep the ram voltage at 1.5-1.52 if you can.

    let us know how it goes.

    AND DONT RUSH IT! OC takes time, be patent. i spent 3 weeks getting my over clock on all my parts and hundreds of restarts.
  31. Thanks, will get into the overclocking soon, just had a little set-back. Tried configuring RAID following ASRock motherboard instructions and the computer decided to *** itself (BSOD, wouldn't boot at all). So I had to reinstall windows again :/
  32. Best answer selected by aleckazee.
  33. Thanks a ton for all the info and fast replies :D
  34. Those are pretty decent load temps...not sure why you were upset. Those tiny air bubbles will work their way out over time, where you really want to be concerned is air trapped inside your radiator (if you have any).

    BTW...your thermal paste pic above is about 3x more than you need. You really only need less than the size of a grain of rice, but any excess will be pushed out the sides. (which still isn't desirable to have the excess squeezing out). It shouldn't cause too big of an issue as long as you have good coverage an don't have air pockets. If the block seats well, it should push out the excess TIM and be fine...just might have a lot seep out the sides.
  35. reinstall windows after raid setup? odd. was the raid on the os drive or on the data drives? keep in mind if you install windows with the controller set as IDE mode then change it to AHCI (or vice versa) you will get a BSOD, windows does not like this. ahci to raid will do the same.
  36. I got RAID to work (no it wasn't for the OS, I have that on SSD). I followed some online tutorial thing and had to change a value in regedit.
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