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Incorrect application of thermal paste

Last response: in Overclocking
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October 11, 2011 4:40:41 PM

Ok I took off my heatsink to get dust off of it, then I wiped off the thermal paste from cpu and heatsink, went to apply a line in the middle like it says to do on the artic silver website.Then two times that I tried to put the heat sink one of my plastic pins on the heatsink.fan, bent, so i had to wipe it off and reapply it twice, then the third time I had to slightly lift up the heatsink to get the one pin that binds in to the motherboard first so that the entire thing would snap in.

Since then I have had idle temps go from 42 to 52-53 and under medium load it commonly shoots up to 67 degrees where as before it would only get to the low 70's when doing something like converting movies to burn to dvd while playing games and such.


What could I do to fix this, the main problem i am running into is that plastic pin bending every time to try to mount the heatsink which means I have to mount it two or three times before i manage to fit the pin in before it bends

my system setting are

AZZA Solano 1000R
GIGABYTE GA-X58A-UD3R
4gb gskill ddr3
Intel Core i7-930
XFX Radeon HD 4890 1GB
OCZ ModXStream Pro 700w18
October 11, 2011 7:24:08 PM

What heat sink and fan do you have?

By the sounds of it your applications of paste are ok. In fact its always good to apply paste, press heatsink down onto cpu then lift the heatsink back off to check paste's foot print.
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October 11, 2011 7:40:25 PM

this is my heatsink/fan

and i was going under the adage of putting the heatsink on once then move it around otherwise you could cause air pockets if you were to lift it up then place it on there again
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October 11, 2011 7:58:30 PM

I haven't used a stock cooler since I can remember but I do know that the copper pad is too small and obviously shaped incorrectly for maximum efficiency :) 

This pins are a pain...the only thing you can really do it make sure they are turned open and set to the correct position BEFORE pushing the pins down. Once you push them down as long as they are turned opened to the correct position I find it usually snaps right in.

The 10 degree difference is significant but it could simply be due to the fact that your paste sat on there for a year or so before taking it off and reapplying. It may take a bit to get the new application of paste to effectively cool the same as the old did.
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October 11, 2011 11:03:40 PM

actually this new paste that I took off only sat for maybe 3 or 4 months, i just read that every time you take off the heatsink you need to apply new thermal paste.
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a c 172 à CPUs
a c 197 K Overclocking
October 12, 2011 9:11:42 AM

That is mostly true. If you put the paste on and it has time to set, you need to reapply the paste. What slcmike is talking about is immediately removing the heatsink to check coverage of the paste, then reinstalling the heatsink.

When you reapply thermal paste, you need to remove the old paste. Isopropyl alcohol and a piece of coffee filter or lint free rag.

Here's how I apply the paste:
Suggestions for applying thermal compound:
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_conten...
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a c 100 à CPUs
a c 235 K Overclocking
October 12, 2011 12:20:42 PM

You might want to get away from that stock heatsink because if you bend and straighten the plastic spreaders too many times they will break off.

The Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is about the cheapest solution you can buy to get away from that push/pin mounting, and has much better cooling performance than stock.
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October 12, 2011 8:56:00 PM

4Ryan6 said:
You might want to get away from that stock heatsink because if you bend and straighten the plastic spreaders too many times they will break off.

The Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is about the cheapest solution you can buy to get away from that push/pin mounting, and has much better cooling performance than stock.



wow you must be clairvoyant, that exact thing happened today after two applications of thermal paste from me not setting it right on there or the pin bending outwards, so i have purchased this heatsink http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... and for 50 dollars total it should be here either tommorrow or friday
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a c 100 à CPUs
a c 235 K Overclocking
October 13, 2011 1:32:49 PM

Nope not clairvoyant, just had it happen to me before.

I suggest using the thermal compound that comes with the CMH212+ it's very good stuff, and you'll need to fill the groves on the base of the heat sink between the copper pipes and aluminum base.

Use something like an old credit card or flat hard plastic, to work the compound in and fill the voids. Once the voids are filled pull the card across the surface in the direction of the pipes.

Completely smooth the surface, with no excess thermal compound left behind, on the copper pipes, if the copper pipes extend below the aluminum once smoothed, some thermal compound excess will be on the aluminum itself, but not the copper pipes.

Just fill the voids smooth!

Too much thermal compound is bad, so once you fill the heat sink base voids, only a very thin layer about the thickness of tissue paper is needed on the CPU heat spreader, then mount the heat sink.

Some instructions below to help you, if you need them.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/258023-29-installing-cooler-master-hyper

Compared to your stock cooler the cooling performance you'll get from the CMH212+ will blow you away.
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October 14, 2011 3:48:51 PM

4Ryan6 said:
Nope not clairvoyant, just had it happen to me before.

I suggest using the thermal compound that comes with the CMH212+ it's very good stuff, and you'll need to fill the groves on the base of the heat sink between the copper pipes and aluminum base.

Use something like an old credit card or flat hard plastic, to work the compound in and fill the voids. Once the voids are filled pull the card across the surface in the direction of the pipes.

Completely smooth the surface, with no excess thermal compound left behind, on the copper pipes, if the copper pipes extend below the aluminum once smoothed, some thermal compound excess will be on the aluminum itself, but not the copper pipes.

Just fill the voids smooth!

Too much thermal compound is bad, so once you fill the heat sink base voids, only a very thin layer about the thickness of tissue paper is needed on the CPU heat spreader, then mount the heat sink.

Some instructions below to help you, if you need them.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/258023-29-installing-cooler-master-hyper

Compared to your stock cooler the cooling performance you'll get from the CMH212+ will blow you away.


thank you so much everyone for your answers, after about 2 to 3 hours of me doing thing wrong. Like first off before putting on the back plate, the guy who's guide i used said to remove cooler support, i already threw away my old cooler so I removed the CPU socket with an alan key, then I put on the back plate got it all screwed in tight, then noticed that there was nothing holding the CPU in place.

So i then had to take off the back plate then screw the CPU socket into place then back plate back in. I still had problems with the thermal compound putting it on the heat sink correctly, so i had to do that about four times before i got what I thought was a correct amount. Then I had to get the retention plate on, good god that is hard to force down on once you get one of those screws tightened on there so finally after alot of pushing and holding, I finally got the heat sink on. When I noticed that if i left it where it was the fan would either be not fit on there, or it would be blowing right on my ram, so I had to take the heat sink off, and reapply more thermal paste, then put the retention plate on and then I was finally done!!!


Just felt like showing the screwups that happens when a novice does stuff like this for the first time, but in the end it worked great, the CPU temperatures for my cores are 46 for the first core and around 40-43 for the others and nothing converting and burning movies or really any games are making it go paste 54. So thanks again all!!
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