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Inside the Coolit ECO ALC closed loop water cooler

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October 15, 2011 2:31:28 PM
October 15, 2011 6:26:55 PM

thats awesome. finally someone takes it apart and puts up some good pics. are you getting good stats with that system?
October 15, 2011 6:46:17 PM

andrey64 said:
thats awesome. finally someone takes it apart and puts up some good pics. are you getting good stats with that system?


not so much with the Coolit. I just bought an H100 from corsair which ironicially is made by coolit anyways. The H100 is MUCH better at keeping my 955 cooler at it's current 3.6 GHZ at 1.425 volts overclock. The Coolit ECO ALC would run me around 52-54 degrees C with about 24-26 degree C inside case temp. The H100 gets me down to 47C on the "Balanced" setting on the CPU block) The corsair cooler has 3 settings you can select right on the water block (there is a button and an led to indicate which profile your on). If I crank it up to high (I think it's called enthusiest) it'll drop temps to 42C on the cores. If I drop it down to quiet I get close to what the Coolit ECO ALC would do.

The coolit ECO ALC worked good. Very quiet and much cooler than the stock heatsink and cooler than the coolermaster N520 I had. The H100 is much better....louder though. I am going to check into quieter fans...probably these ones...

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E1683...

I may loose some cooling capacity, but meh....those go with the rest of the lighting scheme of the computer. Although if someone can recommend better flowing quieter fans I maybe be swayed. I heard noctura fans are great, but I think static pressure would need to be high in order to pull through a rad and I haven't really looked into the noctura fans yet....will do that now.
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a b K Overclocking
October 16, 2011 7:12:20 PM

The H100 should work better than the CoolIt ECO. It has a bigger radiator - bigger rad = more heat dissipation = better cooling.
October 16, 2011 8:09:46 PM

lol pretty much why I bought it.. It does work very well. The fans are rather noisy on performance setting, but on balanced they are manageable. Only about 1-2 degrees difference in core temps between each. It doesn't seem the closed loops are too hard to take apart/modify. Could probably add the coolit rad to the H100 loop and have an effective 120 x3 rad...no idea if the pump can handle that, but I have a spare one anyways! :D 
a c 324 K Overclocking
October 16, 2011 10:51:21 PM

Quote:
The H100 should work better than the CoolIt ECO. It has a bigger radiator - bigger rad = more heat dissipation = better cooling.


The simplest answer is often the best...and in this case, it remains as such.
October 17, 2011 3:24:31 PM

Thank you so much for the disassembled cooler pics! I've been wanting to see the guts of one of these devices for ages, but last I suggested this on a more enthusiast site I was met with a wall of "it's too hard" and other lame excuses for not picking up the screwdriver.
a c 324 K Overclocking
October 17, 2011 3:25:36 PM

I'd be happy to do it...I just need some 'donor' LCS coolers. :) 
October 17, 2011 4:19:15 PM

d0gr0ck said:
Thank you so much for the disassembled cooler pics! I've been wanting to see the guts of one of these devices for ages, but last I suggested this on a more enthusiast site I was met with a wall of "it's too hard" and other lame excuses for not picking up the screwdriver.


Well I was curious also, and usually if it "goes together" it can be "taken apart". The trick being not wrecking it. To be honest it was quite simply allen head screws and a big rubber O-ring sealing the copper base to the plastic housing. I am confident that "maintenance" can be performed easily on this particular LCS cooling in the form of coolant changes and cleaning. The hoses look to be a little more tricky to disassemble for a proper flushing and filling. It will have to be done on a bench away from the computer. I have a 12V power adapter with a fan header soldered on so that "bench flushing/filling/bleeding can be done AWAY from the computer. It will more than likely be messy. I will post some pic's when I get around to trying to get the hoses off the pump/cpu block and off the rad; is seems all that is HOLDING them into the rad/pump block is a couple of split pins that seems as if they engage a slot in the plastic hose barb fitting. I am willing to bet there are nice o-rings on the pipe fittings also. It would seem coolit did a fair job with this cooler kit in the way of dissassembly and replaceable parts. I am sure if an o-ring was to go, it could be found at a local hardware store.
a b K Overclocking
October 17, 2011 4:37:23 PM

In theory you shouldn't have to ever flush the loop (within a reasonable amount of time, of course). You don't need to worry too much about growth, because I'm betting they use water a little more pure than tap water ;) 
October 17, 2011 4:49:54 PM

boiler1990 said:
In theory you shouldn't have to ever flush the loop (within a reasonable amount of time, of course). You don't need to worry too much about growth, because I'm betting they use water a little more pure than tap water ;) 


Stay Tuned....Just took it all apart...pictures on their way.
October 17, 2011 5:08:14 PM

So I took most of the hoses off. Here is the break down:

Closer look
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i454/ru_1980/Coolit...
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i454/ru_1980/Coolit...
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i454/ru_1980/Coolit...


The split pins in the plastic pump housing came out VERY easily. A small drill bit on some vice grips allowed me to push the pins out by hand
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i454/ru_1980/Coolit...
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i454/ru_1980/Coolit...
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i454/ru_1980/Coolit...

here it is apart....double rubber o-rings
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i454/ru_1980/Coolit...
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i454/ru_1980/Coolit...
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i454/ru_1980/Coolit...

And here is the coolant and approximately how much was in it.
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i454/ru_1980/Coolit...

Here is the Pump
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i454/ru_1980/Coolit...

The Rad was a little more difficult to get apart. Had to support the rad in my knees and tap the split pin out with a hammer and the drill bit in the vice grips.
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i454/ru_1980/Coolit...
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i454/ru_1980/Coolit...
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i454/ru_1980/Coolit...

I would say the I/D of the opening is around 3/16". I mesured it to be 4.5mm.
Interesting stuff....I'll let you know how the re-assembly and re-filling goes. It looks as if the extra "blank" fitting on the rad is for filling. We'll see what I can devise to get the coolant back in and bleed out.
October 17, 2011 5:14:00 PM

Huh....for some reason the first few links won't work for me....ugh fix it later
a b K Overclocking
October 17, 2011 5:17:29 PM

ru_1980 said:
Huh....for some reason the first few links won't work for me....ugh fix it later


They all worked for me just now.


Looks like the coolant just has a bunch of additives to prevent growth and corrosion (best guess). The black tubing should help prevent some fungal growth by blocking all light.
October 17, 2011 5:26:52 PM

Wow, I never expected the I/D of the radiator inlet/outlet to be so small. Then again I look at the tubing and reality check myself.

Yeah, you definitely have some anti-corrosion additive since that appears to be a copper block paired with an aluminum radiator. I would not be surprised to find that liquid is a part glycol compound.
a b K Overclocking
October 17, 2011 5:33:43 PM

d0gr0ck said:
...copper block paired with an aluminum radiator...


What were they thinking? Even a troll here could tell you that's a bad idea :D 
October 17, 2011 5:34:29 PM

According to the coolit specs, it is some sort of glycol/ water mix. The tube could be easily changed by cutting it off the plastic barbs and hose clamping new stuff on. If you wanted to of course...
October 17, 2011 5:38:55 PM

Heh, yeah the copper + aluminum combo can easily end in tears. Though, I can see why they did it from a manufacturing cost standpoint. Copper and brass compounds are usually more expensive to deal with. I think with those metals these units would cost more and loose that attractive price point for many people.

I also suspect that when you are in a factory sealed environment it's a lot easier to one-and-done with additives. Theoretically you shouldn't have any way for more reagent to enter the system. Everything is a nice cozy steady state. If manufacturers were not good at figuring these things out I'd be seriously worried about the lifespan of some cars.
a c 324 K Overclocking
October 17, 2011 6:00:16 PM

That makes me want to suggest them even less...even for people willing to pay the price for them.
a b K Overclocking
October 17, 2011 6:13:09 PM

ru_1980 said:
The tube could be easily changed by cutting it off the plastic barbs and hose clamping new stuff on. If you wanted to of course...


I've seen H50 hybrids where people have added an extra rad to the loop.

Quote:
That makes me want to suggest them even less...even for people willing to pay the price for them.

Sounds like we need to do tear-downs of the H80/H100 to see if they're the same (I know they're OEMed by the same company, but you don't know what's inside 'til you look - case in point: PSUs).
a c 324 K Overclocking
October 17, 2011 6:25:44 PM

I'd be very willing to do tear-downs and walk-thru's on LCS coolers, but I simply don't have them handy to do so. (And I'm not about to go buy LCS coolers that I would likely never use just to take them apart and see what's inside).
a b K Overclocking
October 17, 2011 6:30:49 PM

rubix_1011 said:
I'd be very willing to do tear-downs and walk-thru's on LCS coolers, but I simply don't have them handy to do so. (And I'm not about to go buy LCS coolers that I would likely never use just to take them apart and see what's inside).


True, true haha. You're talking to a college student with ~$5 to his name right now :D 
a c 324 K Overclocking
October 17, 2011 6:34:48 PM

You're talking to a 32-year old Senior System/Network engineer with a great career and damn...it's hard to afford much (within reason).
October 17, 2011 10:12:31 PM
October 17, 2011 10:34:03 PM

UPDATE! the pump is now unusable. The housing that fits into the block was damaged when I took it apart (cracked). It was rather tight and I could "SWEAR" I heard something snap....i guess it was that. Oh well....got a fine 120mm rad and some good hoses. lol
October 17, 2011 10:34:42 PM

Interesting impeller shape, too bad I don't have the knowledge to comment much more on that. It would be very interesting to swap that out with an impeller in another pump for a relative benchmark, but I think that's now getting into the more trouble than it's worth zone.

That stream.... I think I create more "flow" after a Mountain Dew binge. :p 
a b K Overclocking
October 17, 2011 10:37:22 PM

d0gr0ck said:
Interesting impeller shape, too bad I don't have the knowledge to comment much more on that. It would be very interesting to swap that out with an impeller in another pump for a relative benchmark, but I think that's now getting into the more trouble than it's worth zone.


My guess is that design generates a decent flow (as noted in the pictures) but also keeps the pump quiet. Kind of like the AP-15 fan blades; the design generates less turbulence i.e. less noise - http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/acc/051/d1225c12b1ap_...

Just some deductive speculation on my part ;) 
October 17, 2011 10:37:41 PM

d0gr0ck said:

That stream.... I think I create more "flow" after a Mountain Dew binge. :p 



I was thinking the EXACT same thing. Took forever to get the sucker to bleed out to do that little test run in the sink...of course it was very difficult to work with such tough hoses and only 2 hands.
October 18, 2011 6:18:22 AM

was considering the h100 for a while and then thought why spend the extra when im not that big of an enthusiast. i got an h60 and its fine for me. Maybe down the road ill get a custom loop.
October 18, 2011 11:19:07 AM

andrey64 said:
was considering the h100 for a while and then thought why spend the extra when im not that big of an enthusiast. i got an h60 and its fine for me. Maybe down the road ill get a custom loop.

I'll probably end up on the custom loop sooner or later. The only thing that kinda turns me off about it is the rather large hose snaking across the inside of my case. Ok OK I know alot of the watercooling guys love that look, but not so much me. I am a little intimidated by custom cooling also. It looks like there are a TONNE of things/manufactures you can buy from.
Like I said..I'll eventually get there....it's just a matter of when.
OH any one know how much of an ordeal it is to move a computer with a custom loop? is that little res sealed/capped so the computer can lay down?
a b K Overclocking
October 18, 2011 12:23:00 PM

ru_1980 said:
I'll probably end up on the custom loop sooner or later. The only thing that kinda turns me off about it is the rather large hose snaking across the inside of my case. Ok OK I know alot of the watercooling guys love that look, but not so much me. I am a little intimidated by custom cooling also. It looks like there are a TONNE of things/manufactures you can buy from.
Like I said..I'll eventually get there....it's just a matter of when.
OH any one know how much of an ordeal it is to move a computer with a custom loop? is that little res sealed/capped so the computer can lay down?


You can buy smaller tubing ;) 

The reservoirs generally have 3 sealed points - 1 inlet, 1 outlet, and 1 fillport. Each is sealed with some kind of fitting, so there shouldn't be any leaks.

I actually drove from home to school with mine on the floor of my back seat, still filled. Everything was ok when I arrived. If you're really concerned, you can always drain it.
a c 324 K Overclocking
October 18, 2011 1:36:58 PM

^Yep. Build 'em right and they don't leak (within reason).
October 18, 2011 2:35:05 PM

thanks guys. I may start looking into custom parts soon. I was more concerned about the leaking if I do move the computer. Draining it is kinda out of the question as re-filling it when I get to where I am going and draining again and so on will be more of a pain than what it's worth. My bro and I like to game in the same room lol so I sometimes drag my junk to his place..lol
a c 324 K Overclocking
October 18, 2011 2:54:10 PM

I've taken my rigs to many, many LANs and never had a leak. It all depends on transport...I wouldn't recommend just tossing it in the back of a truck on a bumpy road, but it also doesn't need a lace pillow to rest on, either.
October 18, 2011 7:59:40 PM

rubix_1011 said:
I've taken my rigs to many, many LANs and never had a leak. It all depends on transport...I wouldn't recommend just tossing it in the back of a truck on a bumpy road, but it also doesn't need a lace pillow to rest on, either.


BWAHAHAHA :na:  ya the worst my comp gets is the back seat of my car. so it's somewhat pilliow'ish, no lace though...
a c 324 K Overclocking
October 18, 2011 8:02:23 PM

It's just a matter of using common sense. Make sure any external tubing/rads aren't being forcefully pushed/pulled on and make sure it isn't bouncing around- which applies to any PC transport, really.
October 18, 2011 8:32:59 PM

rubix_1011 said:
It's just a matter of using common sense. Make sure any external tubing/rads aren't being forcefully pushed/pulled on and make sure it isn't bouncing around- which applies to any PC transport, really.


My case is VERY clean inside; pulling of tubing is very nill besides maybe moving under it's own weight. So, here is a question....Hijacking my own thread....will a 120x2 rad be enough for a moderate overclock on a (so far) 955 and a HD6970? I only have room for a 120x2 in the top of the corsair 600T I have....I guess I could add a second 120 x1 rad at the rear...sound like a custom loop with those sized rads will do it? Maybe eventually go to chipset cooling since this 990fxa's NB runs SOO HOT?
a c 324 K Overclocking
October 18, 2011 8:37:43 PM

Quote:
pulling of tubing is very nill besides maybe moving under it's own weight


Remember, in a water loop, everything pulls and pushes at the same time...so even if your tubing is being moved, its being moved somewhere else, also. This also applies to the actual flow...the pump is pushing the water just as much as it is being pulled.

Quote:
I only have room for a 120x2 in the top of the corsair 600T I have....I guess I could add a second 120 x1 rad at the rear


You would need the 2x120mm and the 120mm in that scenario. That 6970's TDP is ~300watts alone...your 955 seems to be in the 120-125watt range (from a quick Google search). I'd even suggest thick rads over thin/normal if you can swing it.

Quote:
Maybe eventually go to chipset cooling since this 990fxa's NB runs SOO HOT?


What temps? Does it have active cooling on the northbridge cooler? (fan) Guess it depends...if you want to overclock a great deal, you might consider it, but you're likely to run into hardware limitations before thermal limitations.
October 18, 2011 9:02:41 PM

rubix_1011 said:
Quote:
pulling of tubing is very nill besides maybe moving under it's own weight


Remember, in a water loop, everything pulls and pushes at the same time...so even if your tubing is being moved, its being moved somewhere else, also. This also applies to the actual flow...the pump is pushing the water just as much as it is being pulled.

Quote:
I only have room for a 120x2 in the top of the corsair 600T I have....I guess I could add a second 120 x1 rad at the rear


You would need the 2x120mm and the 120mm in that scenario. That 6970's TDP is ~300watts alone...your 955 seems to be in the 120-125watt range (from a quick Google search). I'd even suggest thick rads over thin/normal if you can swing it.

Quote:
Maybe eventually go to chipset cooling since this 990fxa's NB runs SOO HOT?


What temps? Does it have active cooling on the northbridge cooler? (fan) Guess it depends...if you want to overclock a great deal, you might consider it, but you're likely to run into hardware limitations before thermal limitations.


Well chances are, if I do go with a custom water cooling solution the hoses will be tied off and as neat as possible; I really like a clean wire free case...so I am sure I will be trying to keep 3/8 tubing looking neat and tidey.

Double thick RAD on the top is out of the question. Way too close to the ram sticks. I can't even fit a fan on the bottom of my current H100 set-up as it won't fit between the RAM locking fingers and the RAD. My fans are actually mounted on the "outside" of the case pulling through the rad and out the top. There is a pop-off panel/mesh on the top of the 600T that hides the fans VERY nicely.
The rear fan exit WILL allow a double thick 120mm rad. I am sort of against externally mounted rads do to the fact that this machine does put on miles. I suppose I could make up some sort of bracket and have the rad breathe through the side panel. I put a window in my current side panel...well here....

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i454/ru_1980/Comput...

The window is held on by screws. I often change the side window. I cut new spots for the fans in the new window at different locations to play with airflow. I could make up a bracket to mount the rad almost touching the window and use some sort of window sealing foam to seal it to the side window, THEN double thick rads should be no issue. Hard to explain. When I do it...I'll post it.

As for this gigabyte 990FXA-UD3...passive cooling on the northbridge. VERY HOT. I have a NZXT fan controller with temp probes. I have one temp probe on the heatsink at a "solid" location (where it will be effected very little by convection cooling) and right now, with prime running large FFT is 75.3C. Hardware monitor is only showing TMPIN0 @ 32, TMPIN1 @ 47 and TMPIN2 @ 55. I am more likely to believe the fan controller, since last week is was showing relitively close to room temp when I had it behind one of my inlet fans.

a c 324 K Overclocking
October 18, 2011 9:09:12 PM

I'm not sure you are going to accomplish neat and tidy with a CPU+GPU loop and 2 rads inside that case. You'll likely need to go the route of an external rad, or if that isn't what you want, a bigger case.

Or...none of the above. ?
October 18, 2011 9:14:08 PM

rubix_1011 said:
I'm not sure you are going to accomplish neat and tidy with a CPU+GPU loop and 2 rads inside that case. You'll likely need to go the route of an external rad, or if that isn't what you want, a bigger case.

Or...none of the above. ?


Money money money. My gf is going to want a house someday... :lol:  I want to do everything, but don't want a headache (gf). :pt1cable:  Well I'll just go at baby steps....watercooling first, see how messy it looks, then maybe a year will have gone by and I can justify to her a new case....LOL or sell this one. I really like this case though. cable management is a breeze; it's so much fatter than the rest I have had it is very easy to hide all the wires behind the motherboard tray....even if your sloppy doing it.
a c 324 K Overclocking
October 18, 2011 9:32:36 PM

Front rad is a 200mm. As for tubing, he lists it in the first paragraph:
Quote:
I used 1/2 barbs and 7/16-5/8 tubing


The hot air really isn't all that hot. The amount of heat being removed and dissipated in a watercooling loop is very effective and you don't have the heat you think you would. (hard to explain) My rads never get more than warm to the touch...and warm to me is...warm enough to notice over body temp, but nowhere remotely near the temps to be considered hot. (If you consider a hot tub is typically ~104F/40C...and that is based off recommended hot tub temps :)  ) ...Hopefully that wasn't too confusing, considering 40-45C is common load temps for CPU/GPUs in a watercooling loop, depending on ambient. However, water temps aren't the same as hardware sensor reporting temps. This is VERY important to understand...it's all part of your delta.
October 18, 2011 9:38:47 PM

rubix_1011 said:
Front rad is a 200mm. As for tubing, he lists it in the first paragraph:
Quote:
I used 1/2 barbs and 7/16-5/8 tubing


The hot air really isn't all that hot. The amount of heat being removed and dissipated in a watercooling loop is very effective and you don't have the heat you think you would. (hard to explain) My rads never get more than warm to the touch...and warm to me is...warm enough to notice over body temp, but nowhere remotely near the temps to be considered hot. (If you consider a hot tub is typically ~104F/40C...and that is based off recommended hot tub temps :)  ) ...Hopefully that wasn't too confusing, considering 40-45C is common load temps for CPU/GPUs in a watercooling loop, depending on ambient. However, water temps aren't the same as hardware sensor reporting temps. This is VERY important to understand...it's all part of your delta.


I get what your trying to say. Well, may have to look into a CPU loop for now...the add GPU later on, or the other way around... CPU is already on the H100. Thanks for the help.
a c 324 K Overclocking
October 18, 2011 9:41:08 PM

Np.
October 19, 2011 4:21:23 AM

I guess it all comes down to need. Of course u always want the best but shoot i just cant afford it atm. These closed loops give me enough results and have a professional low profile look.
a c 324 K Overclocking
October 19, 2011 2:12:38 PM

As long as you have the information to help you evaluate and make that decision for yourself- that's all we are striving to achieve, here. Understanding, concepts, budget and 'what's good for me' are the biggest concepts to consider when evaluating an aftermarket cooling solution...regardless of the type.
October 19, 2011 4:31:45 PM

rubix_1011 said:
As long as you have the information to help you evaluate and make that decision for yourself- that's all we are striving to achieve, here. Understanding, concepts, budget and 'what's good for me' are the biggest concepts to consider when evaluating an aftermarket cooling solution...regardless of the type.


Well I would say alot of people on this site acheive that quite easily. I find alot of the people on the forums to be unbiased, although you do find the odd few. Obviously decisions are the resposibility of the person doing the buying.
a c 324 K Overclocking
October 19, 2011 4:45:49 PM

Yes, that is definitely the case, but we're pretty quick to call out people who aren't exactly helpful or provide biased information or even info that is detrimental...like those who really have no background in watercooling, yet offer advice based on their limited understanding of it.

As always, let us know how we can help; if we don't know, we'll go find answers. PM me for anything specific if you want.

Thanks again for the teardowns and info!
!