Watercooling help

i have some questions

m4a79t deluxe
phenom ii x4 965
radeon hd 4890



i want to cool the cpu gpu and the chipset on my system

help me find a waterblock for my chipset northbridge southbridge and my cpu thats AWESOME

also i already found a waterblock for my gpu
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/ [...] 30c309s902
any other good suggestions?



whats a good waterpump i dont care how loud it is just that its EXCELLENT
zalman?






also how am i supposed to install it? whats all the plugs and clamps and all that crap
im n00b


so do i just connect the pipes from one side of the cpu waterblock to exit the other side and then go to the gpu entrance and then exit then go to my chipset then back to the pump?????????????????????????????????????????????/i really neeed u all's help

You need at least 8-10 foot, Tygon is over rated and twice the price of others.

I do agree with Kaldor about the chipset... don't bother having it in the loop.

Also, running GPU and CPU on the same loop you need a killer Radiator or even two smaller one.

Something like
pump-cpu-small rad-gpu-big rad-(tline or res)-pump

okay i know whats tygon now and here are my list



8-10 feet of tygon
radiator
pump
resivoir
clamps?
plz add to my list

Tygon is pricey, but you get what you pay for. The Feser and Primochill tube looks nice too. All tubing ages and yellows, cheap or expensive. Im a fan of black, it cant turn yellow. 3/8" ID over 1/2" barbs is pretty rough, no smaller than 7/16. Yeah, I under estimated at 4 ft. 8 ft is about right. 10 if your prone to screwing up.

A single Swiftech MCR 320 is more than enough for a CPU and single GPU setup following the 1 120 fan per core + 1 rule. 2 cores + 1 = 320/360. Thermochills are nice, but require a ton of cleaning before use. Fesers are overpriced. XSPC rads are good at a good price. My bet is the cheap but effective MCR 320.

D5 Vario/MCP 655 is probably the best pump for your application. MCP 355 is nice as well, but requires a new top for the pump to work its best.

Honestly, Id skip the res when you start and use a T line. Its easy to add later, and you can avoid the extra bucks it costs to setup. If you must, the Swiftech Micro res V2 or the 200mm EK res are your best bets. You will need a fill port as well.

Metal hose clamps are overkill. Good heavy duty zipties are more than enough and are a good deal cheaper.

As Grieve said, EK makes nice blocks. However their CPU blocks are very restrictive. I recommend either a Swiftech GTZ or a Heatkiller 3 LT. The GTZ has the best mounting system right, but the HK has better performance but you have to buy the mounting backplate seperately which adds to the cost. For GPU blocks, Danger Den or EK are the best bet.

You will still need barbs. The Bitspower ones are the nicest, but it really doesnt matter that much.

You will need a biocide of some type. Best bets are either small piece of pure silver strip coiled up or PT Nuke. Just use distilled water for coolant. Avoid colored coolants. They break down over time and fill your water loop full of crap.

Fans. Youll need 3 fans for a 320/360 rad. The faster the fan, the louder the noise. Scythe S flexes or Gentle Typhoons are nice but cheap Yate Loons work too.

Order: Pump -> processor -> gpu -> radiator -> t-line or res

Stores:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php
http://www.petrastechshop.com/
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/

If your a complete rookie, Id still recommend taking a look at this before ordering anything or assembly.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/Forum [...] p?t=202394

okay so a little more questions, whats the difference between the different sized barbs, what ARE the barbs used for, what "fan" your talking about , whats "rad" is that the gpu?, and isnt the fan for the radiator?

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/ [...] r#t1801333

Get your self educated first.

Rad = radiator
Barbs = connection from waterblockes, rads, pumps to the Hoses.
Fans are needed for the radiator... they dont come with.
The 1200 does have the holes for mounting external rads.

I agree with Shadow as well... you need to educate yourself before you do this. Read everything you can find.

A dremel is a good tool for cutting holes in cases. Be prepared to mod your case to do this proper.

I have always found no matter how awesome i plan the water loop i always end up having to change it for some reason or another... like the tubes just don’t want to go a certain way... or the pump is a little taller than anticipated.

Ultimately I always end up dremeling (is that a word?)Something! usually to accommodate the pump clearance or to make holes for wires.

after this we can teach you the finer details of liquid nitrogen ,liquid helium an maybe liquid hydrogen cooling jus kidding but seriously get some water ed or read a plumbing basics manual or something water cooling is great if done right
edit add Dice before liquid nitrogen

okay so i did some reading and it appears to me that u need a fan clip for your rad and what im not sure of yet is where the external rad "goes" in all the pictures i've seen, the radiator goes RIGHT AGAINST the side of the case and im not sure thats really good for the airflow despite the impressive 200+cfm fans out there. Also grieve, if i want to have TWO or maybe even 3 rads does the 1200 case support that?

Just curious, unless you are struggling with space,etc why use T-Line? I rarely use a T Line any more. Sure it's cleaner looking,etc. But imo, a clear res (with some moded side LEDs look very cool

Also grieve what fans on the rad? I'm guessing some Scythe Slipstream? Pretty good cable management btw.

heres a nice water setup, I have around $400 dollars into. I built the case myself out of aluminum and lined it with granite.

BTW click the pic, its a video



1/2 tygon lines, and yes you will need 8-10 foot. I have worked with other brands including the cheap Home Depot ones and they do not bend as well and they tend to kink and cut down your flow. Tygon lines do not.

I went with a swifttech Cpu block, Stealth 320 rad, swifttech 655 pump, Danger Den x2 5.25 bay tank, I had the T-line with a fill port in my first setup and it works, but I like the x2 5.25 drive bay better. I went with Scythe 120mm for my fans on the Rad, and the 4 others I have in this build. They are all on a Scythe fan controller.

Water cooling can be for noobs if you do your home work, don't go into it thinking you can not research things and it will work, because it doesn't work like that with water cooling. Its not rocket science, but it does require you do your home work.

I went with Fluid XP ultra for all of my systems so far and have not notice any haze, yellowing of the lines or anything.

I would not waste your time water cooling the motherboard North and south either, just not worth it if you get a Quality board in the first place, if you have a lower dollar board then yes, it might help.

Good luck with your step into water cooling. I love it.

Yes, the pump is on the bottom right as Shadow mentioned... I had to cut a hole in the HDD holder to make the pump fit proper. (dremel).

The fans were Scythe, I believe S flex, was a long time ago. I do remember buying quite fans opposed to super high CFM.

I used a T line on this one because the Res I wanted were out of stock; also I had some limitations with space (even though the 900 is large). In general I don't care too much for a reservoir... Sure makes bleeding the lines a snap though. I hate bleeding the system with a T line.

Jeff you will also notice I had to cut a hole @ the top back (near radiator) for the "in" line to the radiator... Both premade holes are near the bottom which was not going to work for me; the tubing would have had to bend too much, causing restrictions on the water flow. (Be prepared to improvise)