Working on homework, have some L.C. questions

[david132]

Hello everyone, someone, anyone,
I got curious about liquid cooling and have been reading, reading, reading, (and plan to read a LOT more)(both here at Tom's ans Overclockers forums) and plan on a future build eventually since I lost my last one to an apartment fire. I still havent quite gotten this Delta T thing. I understand what it is. Trying to figure it out for what I plan to build isnt working. The problem lies with info on the rad I think. I'll keep seeking.
I have a few questions that are more individual preference related, but I'd like to hear your views.
Order of loop: Most say order doesnt matter as long as the pump is right after the res. Q; any forseeable problems with res-pump-cpu/gpu-rad? To me it makes more sense to store already cooled water in the res. I plan on a drive bay res, and external Black Ice Extreme III rad.

CPU Block: I was planning on the Swiftech Apogee XT (rev 2), but I read that the XSPC Rasa is also a very good block. The Rasa actually specifies for LGA 1156 (I am planning an 1155 build). And I know is cheaper. But I look for quality, and I know it isnt cheap. but I'll save for it ---once. Any thoughts and ideas?

GPU Block: Here I was origianlly looking at the Swiftech MCW82, but I am planning on an MSIR6950 Twin Frozr III PE/OC card so went looking at whole card coolers, even though they are quite a bit more. I settled on a Heatkiller GPU X3 69x0 Hole edition from Frozen CPU.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12899/ex-blc-896/Heatkiller_GPU-X_69X0_-Hole_Edition-_ATI_Radeon_6950_6970_Reference_Design_Full_Coverage_Water_Block_15010.html?tl=g30c309s1373

Oh.....I read to limit things like elbows and such in a loop because they restrict flow.......What about a "T" block like this
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13666/ex-tub-961/Phobya_180_Degree_T_Bock_-_Black_Nickel_64092.html?tl=g30c499s745
My Idea here I heard in a write up by someone testing, and it was to split to go to the cpu and gpu so both have fresh coolant, then "T" them back together right after the blocks (still running 1/2" tubing?) Or should I reduce tubing size between the "T" and cpu/gpu blocks? (i.e. 1/2"--Tee#1--1/2"--cpu block--1/2"--Tee#2--1/2"-----OR----- 1/2"--Tee#1--3/8"--cpu block--3/8"--Tee#2--1/2").

Variable Speed Fan Controllers: Are these any good at all for Rad fans? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9091/bus-191/Manual_12V_Variable_Speed_Controller_-_4-Pin_Molex_Connector.html?tl=g47c17
To neaten up wireing and the inside of the case, I will leave the rad outside, sheath the wiring, and want to run the rad fans into 1 block. with the contoller after it.......
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14094/ele-936/Phobya_4-Pin_Power_Distribution_PCB_6x_3-Pin_Block_81097.html?tl=g47c121s424

Rad Fans: In research from stickies, it looks like Yate Loon is one of the better cheaper fans. The Sythe gental Typhoon's are supposed to be a little better. Was thinking of these Yate's for the rad:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6177/fan-347/Yate_Loon_120mm_x_25mm_UV_Reactive_LED_Fan_-_UV_Blue_D12SH-124UB.html?tl=g36c15s60
Yah, I know, a little noisy on high, but thats where the idea of the controller comes in. Shouldnt have to run on high all the time.

Ok, should have said this first I guess......I was planning on an i5 2500k build. and after learning Overclolcking on my now deceased AMD 955BE rig, this and the GPU will be O.C.'d, for education purposes, but not necessarily left at max clocks all the time, thus the reason to use high speed fans, yet lower them when not needed.

Distilled water with a silver killcoil, pt nuke, and no dyes as per stickies. (although my original plan was primochill clear which had good reviews) 1/2" Primochill tubing as I want mass flow, not sure on color, probably UV blue and something else). XSPC 5.25 bay res,Swiftech MCP655-B pump.

Lastly (for now)... Anyone know of any one stop shopping sites for water cooling parts? I was at 3 and now a fourth with the pt-nuke. So far I have Danger Den, Frozen CPU, and Heatsink factory. None carry the pt nuke though. Looks like Side Winder Computers for that. Frozen CPU has the bigger selection, but not everything I wanted. Just curious of other good sites to order from. I know "google it". That doesnt rate the site. Only you who have ordered would know.
Any computer parts come from NewEgg only. They have always done good by me. (but then again, I never had to RMA anything).

Thanks for any help. If I did something wrong, please dont be mad, just edumacate me. Sorry this is so long and not well constructed.

 

[orangejuice789]

I would recommend running your loop in serial and avoiding any T's... 45 degree fittings wont restrict your flow too much.

The pump does produce some heat, so having your radiator after your pump and before your blocks would make the most sense, because the coolest water in your loop is the water exiting the radiator... but again the differences are minimal.

frozen cpu can be a bit pricey... i would check out www.performance-pcs.com and look for better prices and deals there.

The XSPC Rasa is a very good block, especially for the price.

 

[david132]

Thanks Orangejuice,
Keep forgetting about the heat from the pump. You are right there.
I might go with the Rasa after all.
as for performance PC's, thanks for the link, did some checking. for most things they are only a few cents cheaper than Frozen, although a few things are nicely priced. I also found Sidewinder Computer Systems Inc. The only place so far I could find pt nuke. And their over all prices on everything is super. Not much for fans or tubing though.
Thanks again..............

 

[david132]

Anyone else with helpful ideas?

 

[rubix_1011]

PT Nuke is a name owned by Petra's Tech Shop, which is why you aren't finding it under that name at different retailers: http://www.petrastechshop.com/peptpcobi1.html

As OJ mentioned- don't run your loop in parallel (another one of those questions that keeps getting asked for some reason).

Loop order does not matter at all. Temps will be within 2-3C of temps anywhere else within the loop at any given second. The only thing you want to ensure is that your pump isn't sucking air, which is why we usually have beginners place the reservoir in the loop just prior to the pump in order to extradite filling and priming. You technically don't need a reservoir, but most people run one of some kind just to ensure that air has a place to move to when bubbles work their way out of the loop and to prevent them from getting sucked back in it.

 

[david132]

Thanks Rubix for the added info. I hate being on the rookie end, lol. I read that about not needing a res. I myself prefer it to keep easier eyeball on water level. Which shouldnt change but a miniscule at a time in a closed system.
As I told OJ, I did find pt nuke at Sidewinder computer systems, so maybe they are related. Sidewinder is a home based business. And has some really good pricing.

 

[rubix_1011]

Having a res is a good idea for most people, and most use one. If you were really cramped for space, say, in a little micro box, you could maybe get away with not having one, but I'd opt for a bay res/pump or res/top in those instances rather than go without.

 

[david132]

Best answer selected by david132.