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[Solved] Fans+Fan controller advice

Forum Overclocking : Water Cooling [Solved] Fans+Fan controller advice

Best answer from SushiDragon.

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hey there everyone!

 

initially i was lethargic to post a thread but i'm following up on Rubix's advise to get the whole forum behind me on my new pseudo "2nd" watercooling endeavor.

 

this loop is for Rig 1 in member config, will cool NB as well using the Fusion block.
here's how it looks;

 

http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac288/Lutfij/WCloop3.png

 

the last two things (if it is two things) are:
1| fans and a
2| fan contoller

 

from most websites/threads the AQUACOMPUTER Airplex Modularity System Radiator has a fin density of 7 FPI : here

 

I am very discrete about noise as i like a quiet system...even when gaming. The silver lining for me, in my setup, should be to get a good temp drop without sacrificing silence.

 

Been reading on some German users that this rad is good with either a push or pull scenario.

 

so there you have it.

 

***
Purchase date: ASAP
Budget: will pay a ridiculous amount (ONLY) if its worth it
Preference's: Nosiblockers, Noctua, Scythe or any thing you folks would advise :sol:
Purchasing site's: if the prices are cheaper in places other than Frozencpu than ofcourse lemme have it...though the aquacomputers are the cheapest on frozencpu.
***

 

If any of you people are wondering why i named this my pseudo 2nd wc setup here's what i have now in my rig.

 


N.B:
1| I have a total of 8 fan headers on my board so i can control them via bios for a silent setup
2| I have a set of noctua's on my mod but i want to rule out my experience cos maybe it was the whole H50 thas flawed after doing that mod. Although the fans are dead silent...you get my point, right?

 

Thanks for taking the time!


Message edited by Lutfij on 10-30-2011 at 07:09:07 PM
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I personally like Scythe GT's and Yate Loons. How will your radiator be mounted? Vertically (Up and down) or Horizontally (Left and Right)?

Reply to SushiDragon

looking to mount my rad externally on the back - vertically - like this:
http://www.techpowerup.com/gallery/2210/16.jpg.

 

The max i can mount inside my case up top is a 240rad

 

come to think of it, i'd also want to pick up some spacers for the rad when I'll be mounting at the back , so tips needed :)

 

had some inspiration to mount rad on the sidepanel door:http://techreport.com/r.x/2008_11_23_Thermaltakes_Spedo_Case/ex-01-600.jpg

 

on the fan mount...any thoughts?


Message edited by Lutfij on 11-01-2011 at 07:17:43 AM
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Reply to Lutfij

Not sure you want to mount a rad on the door panel- how are you going to remove the case door to get in there and do anything? Are you planning on just running extra tubing? Not a fan of this, but would allow you to remove the side panel. Most people mount them on the back panel of their case, if they are mounting on the side.

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Reply to rubix_1011

you liquid cooling guys.....
I swear you run on a different frequency than us air guys....
seeing all this I might just tinker around with the next build...
love the pics.

 

I'm going to tag this thread to as a guide if it gets good.


Message edited by malmental on 11-01-2011 at 02:44:28 PM
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Reply to malmental

The most fun about water cooling is the hobbyist mentality of it. I don't watercool to improve my computer's performance- I use computers simply to be able to watercool. (Or something to that effect) :)

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Reply to rubix_1011

It's hard to explain, but that is the basis of it...I am a performance freak, but it does kind of take a back seat to watercooling. Something about it...just seems like your PC is almost 'alive'. It's fascinating to look at it and think about how all that heat is being moved and then removed from the system the way it is.

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Reply to rubix_1011

what about if the liquid (water.?) gets on the board, your done right.?

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Reply to malmental

Not necessarily. Run on distilled water and if any leaks occur, just shut down your system, let it dry for a day or two, and you'll be fine.

If your going to run a radiator vertically, I recommend some Yate Loons. Scythe GTs perform better, but they are expensive. Yate Loons will give you a similar amount of performance.


Message edited by SushiDragon on 11-01-2011 at 03:21:37 PM
Reply to SushiDragon

interesting, just shut it down and let it dry.
but what's stopping it from just shorting out immediately.?

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Reply to malmental

Thats the worst case scenario, but hopefully your Power Supply will stop giving power to it and shut down your components.

And totally distilled water (No bits of particles or anything) isn't very conductive, so that'll give you time.

Reply to SushiDragon

is there beginner kits, or something you recommend researching.?
(serious question....)


Message edited by malmental on 11-01-2011 at 03:35:55 PM
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Reply to malmental

If you have the budget and experience, buy your own custom waterloop.

If not, buy a kit, like some of the XSPC Rasa kits. Great price for great performance.

Reply to SushiDragon

You shouldn't have leaks if you take your time, leak test and don't cut corners. It's pretty rare, but has happened to me once. I killed a video card a few years ago because I had a piece of tubing twist a barb loose when installing and didn't take my time. Luckily, EVGA replaced it without issue. Even distilled can become conductive fairly quickly since it is in contact with copper and brass from your loop. But again, making sure everything is installed well from the beginning goes a very long way.

As for kits to look into- XSPC Rasa kits and Swiftech Edge and Drive kits. EK has some as well, but I'm not as fond with some of their pumps they choose. I think they offer 2 versions of their kits, and one has a good Jingway pump, the other has the 'not as good' version.

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Reply to rubix_1011

nice thanks...

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Reply to malmental

Now- back to the topic at hand...fan controllers...

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Reply to rubix_1011

^Yeah, that's one of the better ones. It will handle higher-end fans drawing more power per channel, or if you run lower wattage fans, you could run 2x per channel. A lot of the hardcore fan guys like this one, since it has the potential to handle monster fans without burning out. When it comes to fans and fan controllers, 'pretty' isn't necessarily what you want when it comes to performance.

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Reply to rubix_1011

I'm writing all this down.... :whistle:

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Reply to malmental

Great fan controller, but at one pretty penny though. 30~ USD


Message edited by SushiDragon on 11-01-2011 at 05:01:22 PM
Reply to SushiDragon

that's not that bad, I have a case fan controller now, NZXT Sentry 2 it cost around $25..

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Reply to malmental

malmental wrote :

interesting, just shut it down and let it dry.
but what's stopping it from just shorting out immediately.?

 

have you ever had a cell phone get doused in water when you forgot to bring a raincoat/umbrella ... ? it happened to me once/twice and all i did was shut it down and left near my stove/heater. After it dried off, i turned it back on and voila - it worked. Operating an electronic device in humid/water conditions will cause the "short" even when a cell phone works after getting wet - you can cause a short just by pressing buttons. I also had some occasional spills with the H50 mod on my rig. Just shut down - and let it dry.

 

So mal - you need not worry about spills. You don't need to write all this down - just bookmark or flag this thread :)

 

For anyone else trying to follow on the Aquacomputer rads review/info. I contacted Shoggy(a rep from Aquacomputer) over @ xtremesystems.

 

this is his reply:

Quote :

Re: aquacomputer rads
Hello Lutfi,

 

so far there are no reviews available...

 

kind regards
Sven

 

+ 5 to the kits mentioned :) i would'ev gone that route but it just the built quality of that rad - :lol: i'd have melted seeing the rads in "brushed anodized black". Might actually do it here at a workshop ... :)

 
Quote :

When it comes to fans and fan controllers, 'pretty' isn't necessarily what you want when it comes to performance.

i'm on the lamptron boat but should i be concerned with whether the controller has a display...like the FC-6 and FC-5 V2. what about the FC-8?

 

I'd like my system to be like a ninja - not Fatal1ty though :pfff:

 

this thread has already come to life :D - :wahoo:

 

* @ rubix - i'll go back to my initial idea of mounting rad on the back vertically after i realized some people were complaining about having the panel door weigh ALOT.

 

What fans should i go for then? so if i went with the GT route - should i be looking at any other brands like the one's i mentioned in first post?What RPM fans should i pick up - get highest and then use controller to get lower rpm's?


Message edited by Lutfij on 11-01-2011 at 06:15:40 PM
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Reply to Lutfij

my birthday tomorrow and I might just get myself a kit....
(apply it to my son's unit first....;))

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Reply to malmental

For a "silent" WC build, get low RPM fans which move tons of air (CFM)

Yate Loons or GTs. (I am heavily biased towards these since they work amazing!)

Reply to SushiDragon

then could you unbias yourself :) ?

@ mal - why not have the kit run on your revived evga build?

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Reply to Lutfij

That's impossible. ;)

I'll go look at more fans for you, been hearing good things from AP-18's.

Reply to SushiDragon

malmental wrote :

my birthday tomorrow and I might just get myself a kit....
(apply it to my son's unit first....;))




Just get a swiftech drive rad with a the pump built in and a XSPC Raystorm waterblock.

Reply to Homeboy2

Lutfij wrote :

then could you unbias yourself :) ?

@ mal - why not have the kit run on your revived evga build?


that might be next.
I will see what happens to little mal first and also learn from it if I mess up or not.
and little mal is on AM2+ board so if I brick it no biggie.
another reason to upgrade and get away with it, slightly..;)

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Reply to malmental

Homeboy2 wrote :

Just get a swiftech drive rad with a the pump built in and a XSPC Raystorm waterblock.


that's like rocket science what you just typed.... :lol:
no idea.
swooosh, the breeze just went over my head..


Message edited by malmental on 11-01-2011 at 06:47:00 PM
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Reply to malmental

I've played against Fatal1ty at a local LAN here in Kansas City (where he is from). He's pretty damn good, but this was like 8-9 years ago and UT2003 was just out. He said he was getting boxes and boxes of stuff from nVidia and Intel for him to test out and 'approve'. Nice guy, he's just a little younger than I am by 2-3 years, I believe. However- I wouldn't buy any of his stuff just because his name is on it.

 

For fans and a fan controller, you have the benefit of getting the fans you want and running them at the speeds you want. So, it all really depends on how much you want to spend on fans overall.

 

Good call on mounting the rad on the back. Are you going to use stand-offs or a Radbox or similar mount?

 
Quote :

Homeboy2 wrote :

 

Just get a swiftech drive rad with a the pump built in and a XSPC Raystorm waterblock.


Quote :


that's like rocket science what you just typed....
no idea.
swooosh, the breeze just went over my head.

 

Swiftech Drive unit w/220 rad
Raystorm CPU block


Message edited by rubix_1011 on 11-01-2011 at 06:51:35 PM
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Reply to rubix_1011

mal - just follow up on these threads on the WC section and you'll learn from lurking - that way lil mal might not have a grudge on big mal for stoning his fav rig.

 

WC, QDC's Blocks...they'll catch onto you soon enough.

 

@ hoemboy - hows your WC build coming along?

 

Edit;
@ rubix - didn't notice your post. I was looking at this rad box

 

was also looking at the XSPC standoffs... :/ choices...

 

about fans - will spend the extra if needed.


Message edited by Lutfij on 11-01-2011 at 06:53:44 PM
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Reply to Lutfij

You can make your own stand offs using longer screws (usually M4 of appropriate length) and some small PVC tubing or even bushings from your local hardware store. Saves you a bundle this way. (I went the route of screws+cutting narrow PVC tubing on my external mounts)

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Reply to rubix_1011

okay - i suppose i could go that route...the screw threading on the rad are M3

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If M3, just make sure they are long enough for your application. It's all preference- I like doing this kind of stuff myself because I can modify what I want to the application and end result I am looking for. (Kind of why I'm building my own test bench how I want, instead of buying one for ~$200...)

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Reply to rubix_1011

^ + 1000

 

i see your going headstrong with the benching :) hats off mate and happy benching.
i know of a guy like conumdrum who made his own test bench+watercooling DIY setup with two loops since he'd be testing lots of GPU's and CPU's.

 

* i also looked at the Triebwerks 123 - but after seeing that they were 65 dBa max - i said @%@$@ no!


Message edited by Lutfij on 11-01-2011 at 07:47:30 PM
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Conumdrum used to be a regular around here, but he got kind of tired with so many new folks showing up and then leaving so soon. He knows a lot of stuff...smart dude, but a little abrasive in the personality department at times. He and I went back and forth on stuff several times, but most of the times we agreed...he just has little patience for people not reading stickies and learning stuff on their own.

I'm looking at building a test bench just because I love how they look as well as being able to swap parts if I wanted. However, I also am considering building a bench to run just water components only and utilize a constant heat source instead of a CPU or GPU...this would provide more consistent results if you wanted to test the radiator capacity of 'X' component producing 'Y' amount of heat in watts.

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Reply to rubix_1011

+ 1 with conumdrum - i ran into him a few times here when i was new.

 

The test bench idea you have is a really smart idea on testing rads :) haven't com across anyone who'd have done the same thing. Brilliant , this forum needs people like you :sol:

 

how do these look?


Message edited by Lutfij on 11-01-2011 at 08:24:11 PM
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52cfm @ 1000 rpm is pretty decent. If you are using these, would you even need a fan controller at 18db? For $10-$11, you also could go with some 1800rpm/70+cfm blowers and dial them down via controller; some of the guys around here like the Xigmatek's for about that cost...one has orange blades- the other, black.

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Reply to rubix_1011

scratch the bitfenix fans - will look into the high cfm fans and i'll be looking some more :)

thanks for the insight!

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Reply to Lutfij

What about some Sans Aces and Deltas?

Reply to SushiDragon

^ been reading those on some threads - they are noisy solutions. though i am curious whats undervolting or overvolting :O ... ?

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@ hoemboy - hows your WC build coming along?

Already put together Swiftech Drive triple rad with a 35x pump built in. XSPC Raystorm WB. Rad mounted on the back. Debating on what rad I'm gonna use for expansion for when I get my new vid card/s. May get another pump for redundancy.

Reply to Homeboy2

Lutfij- no need to volt mod fans if you are running a controller...kind of takes the place of those needs. Just dial them down or back up to 100%...

Quote :

Already put together Swiftech Drive triple rad with a 35x pump built in. XSPC Raystorm WB. Rad mounted on the back. Debating on what rad I'm gonna use for expansion for when I get my new vid card/s. May get another pump for redundancy.



Shouldn't need another pump in a standard loop like that, esp with the 35x. Adding another block and rad should be a cakewalk...GPU blocks are pretty good flowing, and rads are the best-flowing components in a loop.

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Reply to rubix_1011

rubix_1011 wrote :

Lutfij- no need to volt mod fans if you are running a controller...kind of takes the place of those needs. Just dial them down or back up to 100%...

Quote :

Already put together Swiftech Drive triple rad with a 35x pump built in. XSPC Raystorm WB. Rad mounted on the back. Debating on what rad I'm gonna use for expansion for when I get my new vid card/s. May get another pump for redundancy.



Shouldn't need another pump in a standard loop like that, esp with the 35x. Adding another block and rad should be a cakewalk...GPU blocks are pretty good flowing, and rads are the best-flowing components in a loop.



Rubixx, I didn't need the bored and stroked 383 I just dropped in my 68 Chevelle either! :lol:


Reply to Homeboy2

:D We didn't need the 508 cu big block we had in our 18 foot drag boat when I was a kid, either. But it sure went like a bat out of hell...and then some. Pistons were the size of dessert plates and the heads on that monster weighed a ton. 110mph on a lake is enough to make your butt cinch up and grab the vinyl seats.

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Reply to rubix_1011

Absolutely not- where would you get such an absurd idea? :)

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