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Help with Water cooling setup

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November 16, 2011 1:43:36 PM

Okay so its been a very long time since I have done a water cooling setup but I think I know what I need... (keyword think) below is what I have or will be getting unless are awesome community tells me other wise (ie this wont work or something else is better) And just wantiong to make sure I understand everything correctly.

*Case: CM Storm Trooper Full ATX
Mobo: Gigabyte GA-Z68x-UD7-B3
CPU: Intel i7 2600k (goal is 5GHz)
*PSU: Corsair 850w HT
RAM: 8gb G.Skill Ripjaws-Z DDR3 2133mhz (not completely sold yet as the ram is blue....)
*HD 1: Samsung Spinpoint f3 1TB
*HD 2: Western Digital 500gb POS
*SSD 1: Corsair GT 110
GPU: Dual 7850 or 7870's when they arrive

* = I already own

(where I really need the help)

Pump/reservoir Koolance RP-980bk
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?...
CPU Block: Koolance CPU-370
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?...
Radiators 1 Phobya 200mm (for top of cased edited for Rubix's awesome suggestion)
Radiator 2 some 2x120 still looking for a different one :) 
Nozzles: Kinda at a lose here all the items above have no nozzles so I guess I need compressors to go from 1/4th to 3/8ths? and yes Id like the tubing to be 3/8ths.
GPU block: whatever comes out for the 7850 when they come out :p 
Coolant: obviously need coolant :p 

So any advice would be GREATLY appreciated and no I dont need to have koolance just seemed easiest on their site to do.

More about : water cooling setup

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a c 324 K Overclocking
November 16, 2011 2:04:38 PM

Nozzles are really compression fittings or barbs. Only Koolance calls them 'nozzles'. Ok, so here is where most people get confused. G1/4" is the thread size of the fitting where it connects to the block, radiator, reservoir, etc. This has nothing to do with the actual tubing size on the other end. The tubing size is measured in tubing inside diameter, or ID. Most common sizes are 3/8"ID and 1/2"ID tubing. There isn't much difference in flow rates between the two, but most people use 1/2"ID tubing and fittings (which are still G1/4" threaded - see photo below)

You want to make sure all your fittings fit all the components in your loop...you don't really want to mix/match tubing and fitting sizes in a single loop...pointless.

For those radiators, they are 30 FPI and will need pretty decent fans- mid/high speed and very good static pressure. This adds up to (usually) loud fans that are somewhat more costly than lower speed fans for lower FPI rads. (FPI = fins per inch- higher # means higher density and needs better fans to push or pull through). You might consider other radiators of different sizes and manufacturers- Phobya makes a 200mm rad that might work for one of your mounts. Is there a reason you want this all mounted internally?

CPU block- the 370 is a very good block, somewhat expensive, but very good. There are other blocks out there that perform as well, for less cost (Rasa/Raystorm immediately come to mind, and even Swiftech and EK blocks in most instances).
Coolant- you don't want or need 'coolant'...they do not perform as well thermally as plain water and in some instances, can break down and precipitate out of your loop causing buildup and gunk in your waterblocks. You want distilled water and a killcoil or biocide like PTNuke or other similar watercooling growth inhibitor.

The watercooling sticky (linked in my signature below) covers all these topics.
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November 16, 2011 2:17:02 PM

Thanks Rubix was just reading that massive stickied article and yeah the g 1/4 was confusing as hell lol. the reason for internal.. Mainly because this is a new case and I havent found 1 example of anyone water cooling this thing. Like I could be fine with one of those rear mounted setups but for now I think internal just for the shear cleaness of it. And id assume external would be a major pain when i drag this beast to lan parties.

Also Ill definetly look into some other rads especially if there is a 200mm rad that I know will fit the top of my case sense I have the fan already :p 
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a c 324 K Overclocking
November 16, 2011 2:26:17 PM

That case looks pretty big, so you might be alright. Depending on the actual hardware you are going to have in the loop, you'll need to determine how much radiator you are going to need in order to dissipate the heat. This is where planning a loop based on the hardware and delta-t you want comes in extremely handy. If you are going to spend the cash on watercooling, you want it to perform like you'd expect.
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November 16, 2011 2:32:00 PM

For now Ill be buying the first rad/pump/reservoir tubing etc but i wanted to make sure the pump and res will be fine knowing that ill expand it to support those video cards since they arn't out yet. and updated the first post to reflect any changes I've made (Will get that phobya sense im 100% positive that will fit. Also thinking maybe going with that X5PC res/pump since I have seen a lot of people use it so Im assuming its good lol
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November 16, 2011 2:40:40 PM

Also one question for you Rubix. Going with distilled water and the anti algae and what not if I did develop a leak after its installed Im basically dead PC. If I use the non conductive coolant I get not dead PC but can get corrosion and gunk... Is that basically the trade off between the two?
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a c 324 K Overclocking
November 16, 2011 2:58:40 PM

Distilled water is non-conductive as well. Any water/coolant you use will become conductive at some point due with continuous contact with the metals in the loop. Nothing is 100% non-conductive, most of those products are marketing ploys. Just build your loop right and you shouldn't have any leaks. Make sure you leak test once everything is in place and mounted by jumpering your ATX plug pins from any black to green (while unplugged from the motherboard, of course). Watch for leaks and let it run for at least a few hours (4-8) is a good timeline...overnight is better if you can. Most of the time, you'll notice a leak within the first 10-15 minutes, anyway.
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a b K Overclocking
November 16, 2011 3:07:47 PM

lunaticwoda said:
Also one question for you Rubix. Going with distilled water and the anti algae and what not if I did develop a leak after its installed Im basically dead PC. If I use the non conductive coolant I get not dead PC but can get corrosion and gunk... Is that basically the trade off between the two?


Distilled water + a killcoil or PT Nuke has such a low concentration of impurities that the fluid is still basically non-conductive. I've dripped distilled + PT Nuke in my PCI-E slots (obviously not on purpose) and my board still boots fine :) 

If you assemble everything and do appropriate testing before installing the loop you shouldn't see leaks (at least for very long periods of time).
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November 16, 2011 3:20:05 PM

K well I added a killcoil to my cart :p  And ill buy some distilled water from a local store I guess. So far at $350 not including the tubing and any 90 degree couplers (like I said this will be a very clean build) Anyways I am off to work look forward to reading more when I get back :D 
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November 23, 2011 3:41:03 AM

Best answer selected by lunaticwoda.
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