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$700 new build

APPROXIMATE PURCHASE DATE: This week, although see below.

BUDGET RANGE: ~$700

SYSTEM USAGE FROM MOST TO LEAST IMPORTANT: statistical data analysis, gaming, surfing the internet, media

PARTS NOT REQUIRED:
Case (and maybe PSU)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811156062
Monitor (28" LCD)
Mouse/Keyboard
Windows XP x64

PREFERRED WEBSITE(S) FOR PARTS: newegg

PARTS PREFERENCES: Don't care/best for the $

OVERCLOCKING: Maybe
SLI OR CROSSFIRE: Maybe

MONITOR RESOLUTION: 1920x1200

ADDITIONAL COMMENTS:
I recently purchased the RAIDMAX SMILODON case with 500W power supply when it was heavily on sale. I've heard the power supply has a tendency to suck, so I might have to upgrade that too.

Ideally, I would like to start with CPU/Mobo/Memory/HD/DVDRW and work on integrated graphics until my next paycheck, when I will buy the videocard (and new power supply, depending on the card and my experience so far with the included one). This method would allow me to spend a little more money (~$550 on the above purchase), then maybe ~$150 on the videocard (plus whatever the new power supply costs). If I had to buy the videocard with the above components, I might have to drop the total amount I'm willing to spend to $600.
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  1. Okay, not too much response, so let me throw together a part list, and maybe y'all can give me some pointers?

    Mobo/CPU: http://www.ewiz.com/combo.php?cat_id=374
    Either the second or third. Is there much difference between the mobos, besides crossfire/sli?
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128404&Tpk=GA-P55M-UD4
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128405&Tpk=GA-P55M-UD2
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115215&cm_re=i5-_-19-115-215-_-Product
    $280/$310

    Memory: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231193&cm_re=ddr3-_-20-231-193-_-Product
    $85

    HD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152100&cm_sp=DailyDeal-_-22-152-100-_-Product
    $65

    Graphics: This I'm kind of clueless about...Should I just buy a nicer card, or get the crossfire/sli mobo above and get two mid-end cards? I want to spend ~$150 ($125-175 is fine). If I get one card, do I need a new power supply (see above post)? I'm guessing I might need a new PSU if I went with a crossfire build...

    Heatsink: same as above, mostly clueless...can someone find a good one on newegg?

    DVD/CD: I have an IDE DVDRW, but would it be worth the $30 to get a new SATA one?

    ~$430 + graphics/heatsink[/DVD]
  2. Best answer
    CORSAIR CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply - Retail
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005&Tpk=650tx ($89.99 w/ $10 MIR)

    Intel Core i5 750 Lynnfield 2.66GHz 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor - Retail
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115215&cm_re=i5-_-19-115-215-_-Product ($206.99)

    GIGABYTE GA-P55-UD3R LGA 1156 Intel P55 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128401 ($139.99)

    G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL7D-4GBRH - Retail
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231276 ($89.99)

    SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD502HJ 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - OEM
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152181&cm_re=f3-_-22-152-181-_-Product ($49.99)

    SAMSUNG Black 22X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA DVD Burner - OEM
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827151187 ($30.99)

    Total: $607.94

    Now here the problem, you want to purchase the video card seperately, which is fine, but this build does not have integrated graphics. The HD4870 1GB is a great choice for you, but its ~$150.00. You could get something like a HD4350 to hold you off until you buy the nicer GPU (Cheap temporary option), or go ahead and spend the money and get everything now. I would never use that PSU you have, and would probably just throw it away, it only stands the chance to ruin this new hardware you are adding.

    Temporary GPU: GIGABYTE GV-R435OC-512I Radeon HD 4350 512MB 64-bit GDDR2 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Low Profile Ready Video Card - Retail*
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125251 ($24.99 w/ $10 MIR)

    *Do not expect to play games on this, save for older one, this will merely let you use the computer until you get something nice

    Total: $632.93

    GPU: SAPPHIRE Vapor-X Radeon HD 4870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Retail
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102825&cm_re=4870-_-14-102-825-_-Product ($159.99)

    Better GPU (~$25 more): SAPPHIRE 100269HDMI Radeon HD 4890 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Retail
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102852&cm_re=4890-_-14-102-852-_-Product ($174.99 w/ $20 MIR)

    I would say go with the temporary GPU option, and then get the HD4890 when you plan on buying a good GPU.
  3. This PSU is a tad cheaper, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371015 with no MIR. How does it compare to the one you listed above?
  4. It would be fine, both are solid brands.
  5. Do I need a heatsink or is the one that comes with the i5 good enough? If so what would you recommend?
  6. You only need an aftermarket HSF if you'll be overclocking. The options for LGA 1156 coolers are pretty limited right now. This one would work if you're wanting to try overclocking.

    COOLER MASTER Intel Core i5 & Intel Core i7 compatible RR-B10-212P-GP 120mm "heatpipe direct contact" Long life sleeve CPU Cooler - Retail $29.99
  7. Thanks, I might hold off for now. How hard is it to add a heatsink later if I decide that I do want to overclock a little?
  8. Any decent aftermarket cooler will use a backplate and screws instead of the push-pins. That means you have to remove the motherboard to install the HSF. I would buy the cooler now if you think you're going to want to overclock (and who wouldn't want to overclock since it's so easy with the new CPUs?) :)
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