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Defective Hyper 212+???

I have remounted my Cooler Master Hyper 212+ many times and every time I closely follow instructions online and use Arctic Silver 5 (I'm almost out) and still every time my temperatures are ridiculously high. When I remove the heat sink, the thermal compound on the bottom looks like it spread nicely.

My Phenom II x4 970 climbs up passed 70 degrees under load @ stock speeds and keeps going up until I stop it or let it crash! And that is with 2 fans in push/pull! There is obviously something wrong.

It has to be something wrong with the cooler because my stock fan works fine- during the same test I stayed around 59 degrees. Right now I am using the stock fan and have given up hope that I will be able to use the cooler master one.

What could be causing these temps? What is wrong with my cooler? The fans work fine- they push a lot of air that I can feel, but it isn't hot air which makes me think I am not getting any thermal conductivity.

What in the world is wrong with my HSF?

Is it possible that it could be broken/defective? I don't understand how that could be with a heat sink...

Please help me. This has been frustrating me for a while now and I don't know what to do.
26 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about defective hyper
  1. Have you inspected the fins and heat pipes for defects? I can't imagine you getting those temps on that cpu stock, unless...

    1) Heat sink is defective 2)Very poor mounting job 3)Fan isn't working
  2. I'd guess bad mount. Either not tight enough, or too much/little TIM.
  3. Never heard of a defective 212+ but anything's possible.
    What does the base look like?
    I'm thinking bad milling and too much convex on cooler base.
  4. I inspected the heat sink for defects and found nothing obvious. So I just put on my cooler AGAIN and the temperatures are still ridiculous.

    My CPU was at 70 degrees after a minute of Prime95 with my fans on 100% at stock speed and voltage. Still WAY hotter than the stock cooler...

    I still have no answer and I believe I mounted it correctly...
  5. I took some pictures of my mounting procedure- please notify me if it is wrong in any way or you spot something wrong with the hardware. Thank you.







    Also I can hear my fans running and I can feel them pushing quite a bit of air and the BIOS says they are running at 2000RPM, so I don't think it's the fans.
  6. This sounds silly and unlikely but when I bought my 212 the fan was mounted in the bracket backwards I didn't notice until I started overclocking due to the amazing air flow in my case.

    The amount of thermal paste seems a little light.
  7. Pics won't show us if the nuts are tight enough. Did you put them all in and then cross tighten like a car tire?

    And yes, doesn't look like enough paste either. You need enough to cover the entire surface of the IHS. (lightly/thinly)
  8. Follow this paste application procedure = you don't have enough applied
    Bottom pic = two line method(works like a charm)
    http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=38&limit=1&limitstart=5
  9. I'm old school, I'm a spreader. Never failed me. The big problem people have with it is they leave to much on. Trust me, spread, but make sure it is PAPER THIN across the entire IHS.
  10. 4745454b said:
    Pics won't show us if the nuts are tight enough. Did you put them all in and then cross tighten like a car tire?


    Yeah, the nuts are nice and tight and I tighten them in a criss-cross pattern.


    davcon said:
    Follow this paste application procedure = you don't have enough applied
    Bottom pic = two line method(works like a charm)
    http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=38&limit=1&limitstart=5


    I tried this technique before and still got the same temps. I definitely used more that time than in the picture I included in my previous post. When I removed the heat sink, it was spread out across the heat spreader, so I don't think it is an issue with the paste.

    4745454b said:
    I'm old school, I'm a spreader. Never failed me. The big problem people have with it is they leave to much on. Trust me, spread, but make sure it is PAPER THIN across the entire IHS.


    Just tried that but to no avail. I spread it out very thinly across the heat spreader. It was actually easy than I thought it would be to get it spread evenly. But still I hit 71 degrees in prime95 in under a minute.

    Still no answer...I just want my CPU to be able to perform without overheating. When it is running, the air coming off and the fins do not feel hot. That probably has something to do with it, whatever the problem is.
  11. davcon said:
    Follow this paste application procedure = you don't have enough applied
    Bottom pic = two line method(works like a charm)
    http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=38&limit=1&limitstart=5


    Two lines is now the new pea method due to 2/4 cores in place of 1

    Oh also as far as tightening be 100% sure to spin the centre screw
    crank for crank
  12. I've installed plenty of 212+'s using the two-line method.
    You have other issues.= bios settings imo!
    What kind of voltage are you running to the cpu?
    Just looked 1.432v is your problem =way too high for stock speed!
    I'd reset/clear my bios and go from there!
  13. I found AC5 easier to spread but I'm happier with my mx4 results.
  14. davcon said:
    I've installed plenty of 212+'s using the two-line method.
    You have other issues.= bios settings imo!
    What kind of voltage are you running to the cpu?
    Just looked 1.432v is your problem =way too high for stock speed!
    I'd reset/clear my bios and go from there!


    Yes I do have other issues. However its not actually running at 1.432. CPU-Z seems to be a little inaccurate. In the picture you can see that CoreTemp shows 1.4v and AMD Overdrive gives me the same reading. The BIOS is all at the stock settings except my RAM is clocked at 1600 (what it is rated for), AMD Cool n' Quiet is enabled and the fans are set so they are running at top speed.

    Quote:
    AS5 requires 200hrs of curing before temps drop.

    I suggest trying a different better compound

    MX-4 beats AS5 by 3C or more and doesn't requring curing and has a thicker easier to spread compound. Similar to the Noctua NH-1T compound.


    I plan on changing thermal compounds in the future but right now my system is overheating under load which is 15+ degrees hotter than the stock cooler, so I have bigger issues to address first.
  15. It requires curing, but everything I've seen it only drops around 3-4c. That won't fix things that are +15 over stock. Speaking of which I doubt its a bios/too much voltage issue. If he consistently gets +15 with the 212 over the stock cooler, then there is an issue with the 212. In correct mounting would be my guess, probably not tight enough on the nuts. OP has said it was tight and in crossing pattern so I'm not sure.

    This is the 212+ and not the 212 evo right? The 212+ has some big grooves where the pipes meet the rest of the cooler base. Those grooves should be filled in with TIM. Did you do that?
  16. 4745454b said:
    It requires curing, but everything I've seen it only drops around 3-4c. That won't fix things that are +15 over stock. Speaking of which I doubt its a bios/too much voltage issue. If he consistently gets +15 with the 212 over the stock cooler, then there is an issue with the 212. In correct mounting would be my guess, probably not tight enough on the nuts. OP has said it was tight and in crossing pattern so I'm not sure.

    This is the 212+ and not the 212 evo right? The 212+ has some big grooves where the pipes meet the rest of the cooler base. Those grooves should be filled in with TIM. Did you do that?


    Only referring to the bios I would be willing to take this step it is pretty easy but at the same time 15 C is a lot.
  17. I really don't think this is a BIOS or TIM issue

    I think I know what the problem is. I think the heatpipes are messed up...



    They look warped. This is definitely not normal. This must be the source of the bad conductance. Is it possible that they were damaged somehow and now there is a small crack or hole somewhere that compromises the cooling ability? That would probably explain some things. Maybe it happened during shipping because I have gotten these temps since the first time I mounted it.
  18. That pipe definitely looks like it's damaged.It has been twisted.= no good
    I would rma that unit.
    Btw i'm a pipefitter and work with copper pipe quite a bit.
  19. davcon said:
    That pipe definitely looks like it's damaged.It has been twisted.= no good
    I would rma that unit.
    Btw i'm a pipefitter and work with copper pipe quite a bit.


    If the pipe has been twisted, that could only mean a manufacturing issue, correct? I don't see how else that could happen. If it was from the manufacturer that way then I am under warranty, so it shouldn't be a problem.
  20. Best answer
    thunderic said:
    If the pipe has been twisted, that could only mean a manufacturing issue, correct? I don't see how else that could happen. If it was from the manufacturer that way then I am under warranty, so it shouldn't be a problem.

    The third pipe(in focus) is definitely damaged(bulged).
    That's absolutely a defective product.
    A pipe in that condition is unusable in my industry.(hvac)
  21. Replaced the unit, now the system is cooler than I had even hoped- definitely a defective unit.
  22. Best answer selected by thunderic.
  23. is artic silver liquid metal cause im sure your not supposed to use that with direct contact heat pies as it currodes aluminium.

    could that be problem,

    why didnt you use the thermal paste that came with it
  24. i didnt say it it correded copper i said aluminium,

    i read somewhere you should not use liquid metal on direst contact heat pipes,
    i assume it meant because thermal paste is also in contact with rest of block which is made of aluminium in heatsinks with direct contact pipes,

    i might be wrong but the article definetly said that it also quoted as an example the hyper 212+

    i googled hyper 212+ and artic silver and there are plenty of people selling them in combo ill try and see if i can find the article again, if im wrong ill put my hands up
  25. this article says the same
    http://www.customthermoelectric.com/TIMs.html

    i dont know however if artic silver is one of the liquid metal compounds which contain gallium in question
  26. No. If you scroll farther down...

    Quote:
    Thermal Greases and Compounds
    This is the most common form of TIM with literally thousands of products to choose from. There is a carrier liquid such as silicone (or other synthetic fluid) that is filled with micro fine particles of thermally conductive materials such as zinc oxide, aluminum oxide, boron nitride, or silver. Thermal conductivity ranges from 0.8 W/m-K to 7.5 W/m-K.
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