Defective Hyper 212+???

thunderic

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I have remounted my Cooler Master Hyper 212+ many times and every time I closely follow instructions online and use Arctic Silver 5 (I'm almost out) and still every time my temperatures are ridiculously high. When I remove the heat sink, the thermal compound on the bottom looks like it spread nicely.

My Phenom II x4 970 climbs up passed 70 degrees under load @ stock speeds and keeps going up until I stop it or let it crash! And that is with 2 fans in push/pull! There is obviously something wrong.

It has to be something wrong with the cooler because my stock fan works fine- during the same test I stayed around 59 degrees. Right now I am using the stock fan and have given up hope that I will be able to use the cooler master one.

What could be causing these temps? What is wrong with my cooler? The fans work fine- they push a lot of air that I can feel, but it isn't hot air which makes me think I am not getting any thermal conductivity.

What in the world is wrong with my HSF?

Is it possible that it could be broken/defective? I don't understand how that could be with a heat sink...

Please help me. This has been frustrating me for a while now and I don't know what to do.
 
Solution

The third pipe(in focus) is definitely damaged(bulged).
That's absolutely a defective product.
A pipe in that condition is unusable in my industry.(hvac)

thunderic

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I inspected the heat sink for defects and found nothing obvious. So I just put on my cooler AGAIN and the temperatures are still ridiculous.
HOT.png

My CPU was at 70 degrees after a minute of Prime95 with my fans on 100% at stock speed and voltage. Still WAY hotter than the stock cooler...

I still have no answer and I believe I mounted it correctly...
 

thunderic

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I took some pictures of my mounting procedure- please notify me if it is wrong in any way or you spot something wrong with the hardware. Thank you.

P1010451.jpg

P1010459.jpg

P1010461.jpg

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Also I can hear my fans running and I can feel them pushing quite a bit of air and the BIOS says they are running at 2000RPM, so I don't think it's the fans.
 

thunderic

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Yeah, the nuts are nice and tight and I tighten them in a criss-cross pattern.




I tried this technique before and still got the same temps. I definitely used more that time than in the picture I included in my previous post. When I removed the heat sink, it was spread out across the heat spreader, so I don't think it is an issue with the paste.



Just tried that but to no avail. I spread it out very thinly across the heat spreader. It was actually easy than I thought it would be to get it spread evenly. But still I hit 71 degrees in prime95 in under a minute.

Still no answer...I just want my CPU to be able to perform without overheating. When it is running, the air coming off and the fins do not feel hot. That probably has something to do with it, whatever the problem is.
 


Two lines is now the new pea method due to 2/4 cores in place of 1

Oh also as far as tightening be 100% sure to spin the centre screw
crank for crank
 
I've installed plenty of 212+'s using the two-line method.
You have other issues.= bios settings imo!
What kind of voltage are you running to the cpu?
Just looked 1.432v is your problem =way too high for stock speed!
I'd reset/clear my bios and go from there!
 

thunderic

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Yes I do have other issues. However its not actually running at 1.432. CPU-Z seems to be a little inaccurate. In the picture you can see that CoreTemp shows 1.4v and AMD Overdrive gives me the same reading. The BIOS is all at the stock settings except my RAM is clocked at 1600 (what it is rated for), AMD Cool n' Quiet is enabled and the fans are set so they are running at top speed.

AS5 requires 200hrs of curing before temps drop.

I suggest trying a different better compound

MX-4 beats AS5 by 3C or more and doesn't requring curing and has a thicker easier to spread compound. Similar to the Noctua NH-1T compound.

I plan on changing thermal compounds in the future but right now my system is overheating under load which is 15+ degrees hotter than the stock cooler, so I have bigger issues to address first.
 

4745454b

Titan
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It requires curing, but everything I've seen it only drops around 3-4c. That won't fix things that are +15 over stock. Speaking of which I doubt its a bios/too much voltage issue. If he consistently gets +15 with the 212 over the stock cooler, then there is an issue with the 212. In correct mounting would be my guess, probably not tight enough on the nuts. OP has said it was tight and in crossing pattern so I'm not sure.

This is the 212+ and not the 212 evo right? The 212+ has some big grooves where the pipes meet the rest of the cooler base. Those grooves should be filled in with TIM. Did you do that?
 


Only referring to the bios I would be willing to take this step it is pretty easy but at the same time 15 C is a lot.
 

thunderic

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I really don't think this is a BIOS or TIM issue

I think I know what the problem is. I think the heatpipes are messed up...

P1010494.jpg


They look warped. This is definitely not normal. This must be the source of the bad conductance. Is it possible that they were damaged somehow and now there is a small crack or hole somewhere that compromises the cooling ability? That would probably explain some things. Maybe it happened during shipping because I have gotten these temps since the first time I mounted it.
 

thunderic

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If the pipe has been twisted, that could only mean a manufacturing issue, correct? I don't see how else that could happen. If it was from the manufacturer that way then I am under warranty, so it shouldn't be a problem.
 

The third pipe(in focus) is definitely damaged(bulged).
That's absolutely a defective product.
A pipe in that condition is unusable in my industry.(hvac)
 
Solution

donkeywax

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is artic silver liquid metal cause im sure your not supposed to use that with direct contact heat pies as it currodes aluminium.

could that be problem,

why didnt you use the thermal paste that came with it
 

donkeywax

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i didnt say it it correded copper i said aluminium,

i read somewhere you should not use liquid metal on direst contact heat pipes,
i assume it meant because thermal paste is also in contact with rest of block which is made of aluminium in heatsinks with direct contact pipes,

i might be wrong but the article definetly said that it also quoted as an example the hyper 212+

i googled hyper 212+ and artic silver and there are plenty of people selling them in combo ill try and see if i can find the article again, if im wrong ill put my hands up