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Swiftech Drive pump is LOUD, any sugestions?

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December 19, 2011 7:21:50 PM

Im currently using swiftech drive, wich I upgraded from a zalman reserator 1. Altough the zalman reserator was TOTALLY silent, I neeed a more compact solutuion to allow a better mobility of the case.

The swiftech pump is insanelly loud. I have complete silent fans, so If I can get a nice pump, Im gonna be really glad.


Any solutuions?
a c 324 K Overclocking
December 19, 2011 7:23:29 PM

The pump on the Swiftech units are DDC pumps and are very quiet...it sounds like you have air in the rad and the pump is sucking on an air bubble.

How is it mounted?

FYI- Zalman Reserator is a POS- weak pump and mixed metals.
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December 19, 2011 8:15:53 PM

rubix_1011 said:
The pump on the Swiftech units are DDC pumps and are very quiet...it sounds like you have air in the rad and the pump is sucking on an air bubble.

How is it mounted?

FYI- Zalman Reserator is a POS- weak pump and mixed metals.



Friend, I will upload a picture and a video later today.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
December 19, 2011 8:23:41 PM

Ok, would be easier to give an idea, but pic can help.

Is it mounted vertical or horizontal?
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a b K Overclocking
December 19, 2011 10:21:28 PM

I'm voting air bubble as well. Air is the only thing (aside from shards of impeller) that makes (audible) noise in a pump.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
December 19, 2011 11:21:46 PM

Loud pump + continually running loud pump without finding out the cause of said loud pump = very bad for pump.

If your car's engine was making a horrific knocking and banging noise, you should immediately shut your car off. Your water loop's water pump should be given the same consideration.
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December 20, 2011 1:07:34 AM

Ok, thhis may or may not be the problem...I conected the power cable (yellow and black), but did not conected the blue cable, wich apparently goes into the motherboard. According to the manual, its a monitoring cable, its optional and is not needed to be conected in order for the product to work correctly.

Where do I conect this cable to exactly? Ill give it a shot.
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a b K Overclocking
December 20, 2011 1:17:06 AM

I bet it plugs into a PWM fan header on your motherboard and modulates the pump speed based on the detected temperature. All that'll do is change the speed; the noise is almost definitely an air bubble.
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December 20, 2011 1:18:58 AM

Videos to better show the problem:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9oA8OJq7E4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1b6AUtXbe5Y

In both videos, ALL case fans are OFF, I've no mobo fan, therefore the only thing spinning are HDDs, PSU and 9800 GT fan.

In video 1, the Swiftech watercooler is OFF. The PC makes a considerable startup noise, but quickly goes into silent operation

In video 2, I turn on the swiftech pump. And it clearly makes some very waterfall like noises (ironic huh?)

I would also like to point that in both cases, the swiftech fans are OFF as well, so the only extra noise in video 2 comes from the pump.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
December 20, 2011 1:20:31 AM

Yeah, PWM, so it must be a MCP35x pump. If you run the yellow/black only, it will run 100% speed, which is fine. If you want PWM, you'll need to run that plug to your CPU fan header.

As boiler (and I) mentioned, it's likely an air bubble near your pump inlet.

You never answered- how is the rad mounted? This would be of great help to know. (Edit- seeing your videos now) It's hard to tell how loud the noise is...

Yep- you have a decent amount of air in there. Stop the pump, add more water, and restart it. (are you jumpering the PSU?)

What you are hearing is your pump chopping thousands of air bubbles...
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December 20, 2011 1:24:55 AM

rubix_1011 said:
Yeah, PWM, so it must be a MCP35x pump. If you run the yellow/black only, it will run 100% speed, which is fine. If you want PWM, you'll need to run that plug to your CPU fan header.

As boiler (and I) mentioned, it's likely an air bubble near your pump inlet.

You never answered- how is the rad mounted? This would be of great help to know. (Edit- seeing your videos now) It's hard to tell how loud the noise is...

Yep- you have a decent amount of air in there. Stop the pump, add more water, and restart it. (are you jumpering the PSU?)



I will tomorrow try conecting the header, its 3 am now and Im falling asleep...I believe that if the pump is not at 100%, the noise may be reduced....Ill reply again in a few hours

you can check the videos for a better understanding.

Either way, lets say its an Air bubble, how do I remove it???
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a c 324 K Overclocking
December 20, 2011 1:31:10 AM

PWM isn't going to fix the air bubble. You'll need to dislodge it and purge the air out of the res. Is the pump at the top or the bottom of the rad? It looks like the top is the res portion, which would mean the pump is at the bottom. You must have a decent bubble in there.

Shaking and tilting the rad while the pump is on should help move it around, but you'll need to add more water incrementally when you shut down the pump to help purge the air.

Are you jumpering your 24 pin ATX plug so you aren't running your PC while doing all this?
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a b K Overclocking
December 20, 2011 1:33:21 AM

You just have to get the air out of the loop entirely. That usually means filling, sealing, and then tilting/flipping the case upside down, and restarting the process.

It can be easier if the loop is not connected to things and you can physically move the air bubble into the reservoir.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
December 20, 2011 1:36:36 AM

The hard part is moving the rad so the air gets dislodged and pushed out, but the pump doesn't start sucking more air as a result. This pump should be pushing a lot of flow, so if you can keep topping off the water levels and tilting everything (even if doing when the loop is off) you can start getting the air out.

This is a lot easier to do if you are jumpering your ATX plug from your PSU. (I'm hinting a lot here...)
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December 20, 2011 9:28:18 AM

rubix_1011 said:


This is a lot easier to do if you are jumpering your ATX plug from your PSU. (I'm hinting a lot here...)



I dont understand this, english is not my first language, and Im a simple PC user. Can you please explain?
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a b K Overclocking
December 20, 2011 10:44:24 AM

Pump is an MCP350 , 4 pin HDD connector ( aka Molex ) for power and a tach cable, no PWM.
Video looks like my H20-220 Compact, sorry
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a c 324 K Overclocking
December 20, 2011 12:22:43 PM

Quote:
I dont understand this, english is not my first language, and Im a simple PC user. Can you please explain?


Disconnect the ATX connector from the motherboard. Use a wire or paperclip to connect green to any black wire- there should be green/black next to one another which might be simplest. Then, simply use the toggle switch on the back of your power supply to turn power on/off. If your power supply does not have this, you could use a power strip with a toggle switch to plug into instead. This keeps your motherboard and PC from booting, but kicking on the power supply to run your pump.
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December 20, 2011 12:59:30 PM

I checked another swiftech video on youtube, and apparently thats the usual pump noise.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JAeC9QE2TXY check 12min

It is freaking cooling my system tough, my CPU is 30oC at LOAD, while my mobo is 45oC

What happens if I turn OFF the pump, and keep the fans spinning, will that be enough for cooling?
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a c 324 K Overclocking
December 20, 2011 1:17:30 PM

No. You want the pump moving water through the loop, otherwise it won't cool the components and they will overheat.

I'll make this clear- this is not usual pump noise. What you have is air in your loop- you have a noticeable churning and gurgling noise. Please understand that we know what we are talking about. These pumps should operate very, very quietly with barely an audible hum. You need to address the air in the loop and this will eliminate the noise. The noise in the video is about normal, maybe slightly louder than normal- but normal nonetheless. If this is loud to you, you have exceptional hearing as this is less audible than low speed fans.
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December 20, 2011 3:16:37 PM

Thanks for the help, I will try to remove the air. Nevertheless, yes, I am Daredevil
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a c 324 K Overclocking
December 20, 2011 3:22:03 PM

I think the sounds your video has and the ones from the review video are very different. It seems clear that the noise your pump is making is very much due to air in the loop...so try to get that sorted out.

You mentioned not speaking English as your first language- no problem. Where are you from?
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December 20, 2011 11:46:30 PM

I am brasilian, but I actually speak perfect english, I just cant understand a word I never heard/seen before, and I could not figure out "jumpering your atx plug", as a matter of fact I still have no idea what you were talking about.

Nevertheless, Im ok with turning my PC on, as its not my main machine. As matter of fact, Im trying to install XP on it, without sucess, I even recently created a thread for it.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
December 21, 2011 1:31:32 PM

I wouldn't run it for long periods of time like that, but for a few hours or overnight you are fine. This is the best way to easily power on stuff like your pump, etc without the rest of the PC booting up. Just disconnect the ATX plug and jumper the correct wires- green to any black wire.
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December 21, 2011 5:37:58 PM

rubix_1011 said:
I wouldn't run it for long periods of time like that, but for a few hours or overnight you are fine. This is the best way to easily power on stuff like your pump, etc without the rest of the PC booting up. Just disconnect the ATX plug and jumper the correct wires- green to any black wire.



After some trials, I think I will simply change the sytem for a more silent one. I believe I was sucessfull in removing the air bubble, but I still can hear some humming noise wich is not welcome.

How is the corsair hydro series?
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a c 324 K Overclocking
December 21, 2011 5:45:16 PM

For the performance increase, the humming means you don't want it? This seems strange given most watercooling users. Exactly how quiet do you need this to be? Every fan or pump will make noise and for the performance, most people don't mind a barely audible humming noise.

Corsair Hydro's are average performing..about as good as decent air cooling. If your pump is now operating at the same noise levels as the video you posted of the same Drive review, this is likely about normal...but I know they are a bit louder with the Drive units than when in a normal loop.

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December 21, 2011 7:19:09 PM

I will keep it for a while, but eventually, I want 0db. With the zalman on, I had to touch the cooler with my ear to hear a insannelly low humming noise, and just by standing next to it, I could not hear a thing.

The reason I got the Zalman Reserator initally was to do not have a CPU fan, and both eliminate its noise as well as reduce hot air inside the case. The liquid cooling took out CPU heat out of the equation. Im currently changing the PSU for a silent one, and the videocard fan goes into silent mode after some time, at idle is tottally silent.

I have to admit that this swiftech is the sub-zero of liquid cooling, the zalman kept my cpu at 40-50oC while this keeps it at 30oC, no matter how bad I stress the machine.

Friend, if you can recomend me, are you aware of 120mm ultra silent fans? Im talking 10db.
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a b K Overclocking
December 21, 2011 7:24:55 PM

Depends on what you're doing. There's no way 10dBA fans can support a high-end CPU and 2 GPUs ;) 
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a c 324 K Overclocking
December 21, 2011 7:27:07 PM

Well, to be technical, you really can't get to 0db...even 10 is lower than the human ear can hear. The pump in the Swiftech is about 10x more powerful, which is good for increased flow which helps create a lower delta based on the same ambient temperatures. Also, the Zalman is mainly aluminum, which is very bad when using copper or bronze- you end up with nasty galvanic corrosion with mixed metal loops containing aluminum.

For quiet 120mm fans, you can go with slower fans like 1000 rpm or slower, or use some fans with a fan controller so you can regulate the speeds to noise and performance levels of your choice.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
December 21, 2011 10:35:27 PM

I have the same chip. Can you link where you got it? Depending on the pump, if it has the MCP35x, it has PWM and can run at slower speeds depending on temperature.
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December 22, 2011 12:00:09 AM

acording to my acount history, it was this one....

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10088/ex-rad-172/Swif...

and apparently it does have pwm....but I conected the blue 3 pin header to a cha fan, should I contect to pwr fan?

I will upload later a new video, with just the PC on, then just the fans on, then just the pump on, then the whole setup
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a c 324 K Overclocking
December 22, 2011 12:05:42 AM

You would want it connected to the CPU_FAN header- this way it will regulate pump speed based on CPU temperature.

And yes, that pump is the MCP35x...one of the best pumps out there for under $150.
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December 22, 2011 12:45:18 AM

But, the cable is 3 pin, and the CPU is 4 pin...right?
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December 22, 2011 1:03:05 AM

I believe swiftech sent me the wrong item...the pump only runs at 3500RPM/4000RPM
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December 22, 2011 1:03:49 AM

how do I check wich version I have? Apparenlty, the first generation has a fiex 3500RPM speed, while only the second generation can go to 1400RPM
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a c 324 K Overclocking
December 22, 2011 1:45:28 AM

Hmmm...you might wish to send an email to their support team on their site. They should be able to give you any specific info you need...perhaps a correct part if you are missing one. I think CPU is 4 pin, but it could also be 3 pin, depending on motherboard...it also might depend on how the PWM on the pump works...I think you can get PWM from 3 pin as well. (Well, I know for fans this is the case, pumps, I am not as sure).
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December 22, 2011 2:59:02 AM

Ok, my drive only has yellow/black cable for pump power and blue cable for fan monitoring apparenlty and it doesnt change anything, I alrady conected it to cpu fan, cha fan, pwr fan, its the same.

Apparenlty the drive with the silent pump has also a green cable, in adition to the blue cable, I checked some photos at frozencpu. Does this confirm I have the first generation with fixed speed?
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a c 324 K Overclocking
December 22, 2011 3:13:41 AM

You might have an older version of the Drive combo which used the MCP355 pumps, as they are not PWM capable. You might be able to tell the pump model by looking at the sticker on the pump itself. Still though, it should be fairly quiet.

How much difference in audible sound is there now? What can you compare it to?
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December 22, 2011 9:46:06 AM

Im getting an ok to use sound, but still, im a perfectionist, so Im gonna either replace for a current swiftech drive or get a new watercooling system and sell my current one.

Nevertheless, im still not conviced about this PMW controlable mcr drive, it would be great to find some more information online, but its not much available.

Question, if I simply get a new pump and add it to my system, is it OK, to have the MCR-drive pump off? Will that stop water from moving? I could even get a silent swiftech pump, as I will have a hassle uninstalling the reservoir...
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December 22, 2011 1:36:41 PM

rubix_1011 said:
You might have an older version of the Drive combo which used the MCP355 pumps, as they are not PWM capable. You might be able to tell the pump model by looking at the sticker on the pump itself. Still though, it should be fairly quiet.

How much difference in audible sound is there now? What can you compare it to?



Can I simply add this new pump to my system, and leave the Reservoir Combo pump off? will the Reservoir pump off be a problem to the loop?
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a c 324 K Overclocking
December 22, 2011 1:55:28 PM

You aren't going to find a pump much quieter than that. You need a pump and radiator- pump to ensure the water moves through the loop and the radiator is needed to dissipate heat.
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December 22, 2011 2:05:42 PM

rubix_1011 said:
You aren't going to find a pump much quieter than that. You need a pump and radiator- pump to ensure the water moves through the loop and the radiator is needed to dissipate heat.


I will leave the radiator in the loop. I will simply leave its pump off, while the MCP35X external pump would be on. Does the pump off in the radiator blocks the loop? or perhaps it will be fine?
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a b K Overclocking
December 22, 2011 2:24:12 PM

I thought the Swiftech Drive pump was a DDC-style pump. Can't you just swap them out?
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December 22, 2011 2:28:24 PM

boiler1990 said:
I thought the Swiftech Drive pump was a DDC-style pump. Can't you just swap them out?


I will leave both pumps in the loop but only turn on the silent pump, wich would be the MCP35X. The MCP350 (the loud pump) is integrated to my system, but I will leave it off. Is this a problem, will water flow naturally with one of the pumps off? Im simply asking cause Im unfamiliar with the internals of an OFF pump, the "doors may close" or something...
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a b K Overclocking
December 22, 2011 2:33:24 PM

The pump just has a rotating impeller (think streamlined paddle wheel), so you'd lose some flow to that but I'd imagine it would be ok.

You should be able to remove the 350 from the Swiftech Drive and insert the 35X in it's place. That way you don't have to have extra tubing/mounting, flow losses, etc.
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December 22, 2011 3:22:39 PM

boiler1990 said:
The pump just has a rotating impeller (think streamlined paddle wheel), so you'd lose some flow to that but I'd imagine it would be ok.

You should be able to remove the 350 from the Swiftech Drive and insert the 35X in it's place. That way you don't have to have extra tubing/mounting, flow losses, etc.



I happen to have a extra reservoir mid way to the cpu block, wich I could simply replace with a 2nd pump. altough for that price alone, I better get the newest Reservoir/pump/radiator combo and sell my current one on ebay......

Im not sure if I could simply replace the pump, the design of it seems diferent when looking at pictures, waiting for sweiftech reply on the matter.

Anyway, thanks guys, Im gonna search for videos of the mcp35x pump so I can make sure its silent enough for me. Anyways, my current rig is working great, as I test, I left my pump off, waited till the CPU reached 50oC and then I turned the pump on, the CPU was cooled to 29oC in the second, almost instantenouslly. I know a slower silent pump will not give me the same performance, but I have room to spare
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a c 324 K Overclocking
December 22, 2011 3:31:07 PM

MCP355 and MCP35x have the exact same bolt mounting patterns.
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December 22, 2011 4:14:22 PM

But the way the tubes contect to it are diferent, mcp35x gets water from the top apparenlty, while mcp355 is in and out horizontally. Anyways, the new MCR-x20 drive, wich would be the radiator combo Im looking for would result in me doing extra cutting in the side panel of the case, I really dont want to do that again...so Im just sticking the pump in the middle of the loop.
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