GA-P55A-UD3R OCZ Platinum 1600Mhz issue

Hello

I finished building my new PC yesterday, Booted from the first try no issues :bounce: , However i noticed that my RAM's is reported as 1066 by the mobo which is a known issue since these RAM's require 1.7V to run @ the advertised speeds and P55 mobos are set to 1.5 only(i didn't know that it's my mistake :( )so now what i'm trying to do is to increase my RAM voltage to maybe the suggested 1.7V or at least 1.65V to get maybe 1333Mhz with 7-7-7-24 timing (i'd live with that since i'm no good with OC'ing).

What i need is some one to hopefully explain to me the process in how to do it, What do i need to disable and enable etc....i never done such thing before and i tried to learn but it's confusing sometimes and i don't wanna end up torching my new mobo :(

Here is my PC specs:
Mobo:GA-P55A-UD3R with F7 Bios.
RAM: OCZ3P16004GK Timing 7-7-7-24
Voltage 1.7V (1.75V EVP)
CPU:i7-860

I hope i provided the needed information for my issue, I would even take snapshots/Video from my Bios if it would help.

Thanks in advance
24 answers Last reply
More about p55a ud3r platinum 1600mhz issue
  1. If you can't live with it the way it is, send it back, eat the restock fee, and get something made for your board/CPU... To quote from the OCZ description here:
    http://www.ocztechnology.com/products/memory/ocz_ddr3_pc3_12800_platinum_edition
    Quote:
    The new PC3-12800 Platinum Edition was developed to offer enthusiasts a memory solution that takes full advantage of the capabilities of the Intel P35 and X38 Express chipsets.

    The 'standard' memory voltage for 1156/1366 CPU memory controllers is 1.5; they'll do 1.65 with no real headache - higher is a risk, and the 1.8 EVP listed on the 'specs' tab of the above page is out of the question...
  2. bilbat said:
    If you can't live with it the way it is, send it back, eat the restock fee, and get something made for your board/CPU... To quote from the OCZ description here:
    http://www.ocztechnology.com/products/memory/ocz_ddr3_pc3_12800_platinum_edition
    Quote:
    The new PC3-12800 Platinum Edition was developed to offer enthusiasts a memory solution that takes full advantage of the capabilities of the Intel P35 and X38 Express chipsets.

    The 'standard' memory voltage for 1156/1366 CPU memory controllers is 1.5; they'll do 1.65 with no real headache - higher is a risk, and the 1.8 EVP listed on the 'specs' tab of the above page is out of the question...


    I bought it from a local shop and they don't accept restocking caused by my mistake of picking a RAM, That's why i'm ok with setting them to either 1333 @ 7-7-7-24 or 1600 @ 8-8-8-24 both @ 1.65V to compensate for my fault :(

    Thanks for your help :)
  3. Take heart - you'll likely never see the difference in performance, anyway...
    http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/memory-scaling-i7,2325-5.html

    I think you do need a new 'shop', though - they should be telling you what to buy that will work! Ah well - reminds me of an old saw:

    Q - How can you tell the difference between a car salesman and a computer salesman?

    A - The car salesman knows when he's lying to you...
  4. bilbat said:
    Take heart - you'll likely never see the difference in performance, anyway...
    http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/memory-scaling-i7,2325-5.html

    I think you do need a new 'shop', though - they should be telling you what to buy that will work! Ah well - reminds me of an old saw:

    Q - How can you tell the difference between a car salesman and a computer salesman?

    A - The car salesman knows when he's lying to you...


    Thanks for being supportive and I took your advice and visited the shop again and guess what? They replaced it to me and gave me a LV verion of the same kit (OCZ3P1600LV4GK) and now I'm so happy :D....I was kinda discouraged but thanks to you i just gave it a shot and went to them.

    Now i need to figure out how to set my new set to 1.65V to be able to reach 1600 @ the optimal timing. My previous issue is solved.
  5. Always welcome! :hello:

    Assuming the picture on the GB site is accurate, you want your DIMMs in DDR3_1 and DDR3_3, the two white slots, second and fourth away from the CPU... Do the <DEL> during the POST to enter the BIOS; select "Load optimized Defaults", execute it ( <'y'> at the prompt...), and do the <F10> 'save & exit; on the reboot, once again, enter the BIOS; select the "MB Intelligent Tweaker(M.I.T.)" page; at the bottom of the first page it should show you "DRAM Voltage ", check to see that the 'LoadOpt' got it set correctly; if not, post back, and I'll walk you through it...
  6. bilbat said:
    Always welcome! :hello:

    Assuming the picture on the GB site is accurate, you want your DIMMs in DDR3_1 and DDR3_3, the two white slots, second and fourth away from the CPU... Do the <DEL> during the POST to enter the BIOS; select "Load optimized Defaults", execute it ( <'y'> at the prompt...), and do the <F10> 'save & exit; on the reboot, once again, enter the BIOS; select the "MB Intelligent Tweaker(M.I.T.)" page; at the bottom of the first page it should show you "DRAM Voltage ", check to see that the 'LoadOpt' got it set correctly; if not, post back, and I'll walk you through it...


    I already chose the 1&2 DIMMs and did as you told me and loaded the optimized setting exited and saved, the Final result was just above 1.5V as shown in the picture below. You have no idea how great full i am to you *sob*
  7. Quote:
    *sob*
    :lol: :lol:

    Once again, always welcome, glad to be of service [:bilbat:8]
  8. bilbat said:
    Quote:
    *sob*
    :lol: :lol:

    Once again, always welcome, glad to be of service [:bilbat:8]


    Sorry i didn't mention it on my previous post, The RAM's are still running on 1066 @ 1.5V, Hope u can give me the optimal settings to reach the advertised specifications. :ange:
  9. Eeekk! I'm a really old fart [:bilbat:6] and getting feeble (apparently) besides! :pt1cable:

    I completely missed the fact that you got replacement (workable) RAM, and it, too, might need 'tweaking' !!

    You gave me the part number already - lemme do a little research & get back - busy day today, did some baking, & had a bathroom disaster (no - not related to being an old fart! ;) ); toilet supply line popped a seal, flooded the room, drenched the basement, and is threatening to leak into the power supply for my water-cooling system, built in to the basement ceiling nearby :o
  10. bilbat said:
    Eeekk! I'm a really old fart [:bilbat:6] and getting feeble (apparently) besides! :pt1cable:

    I completely missed the fact that you got replacement (workable) RAM, and it, too, might need 'tweaking' !!

    You gave me the part number already - lemme do a little research & get back - busy day today, did some baking, & had a bathroom disaster (no - not related to being an old fart! ;) ); toilet supply line popped a seal, flooded the room, drenched the basement, and is threatening to leak into the power supply for my water-cooling system, built in to the basement ceiling nearby :o


    Oh my, Sorry to hear that really....Make sure u cover that power supply with some plastic or whatever just in case. Ill finish my night shift in like 15 mints and go home to sleep, I'm in no hurry at all.....on a side note i love how my new build is better than most of these IBM i series servers :sol: that i monitor and operate on everyday makes me feel superior :love:
  11. Ahh - it's screwed into the ceiling - so kind of hard to do - may just have to shut down for a while to try to dry out the mess!
  12. bilbat said:
    Ahh - it's screwed into the ceiling - so kind of hard to do - may just have to shut down for a while to try to dry out the mess!
    http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/8587/radiatorsmall.jpg


    wow your setup just looks extreme, May i ask why do you have the water-cooling system on the basement? I assume u have your actual Rig on the first floor just above the basement? Hmmmmm i think noise? also could be looks? Forget it I'm too confused
  13. Ahh - the whole thing was kind of 'by accident'! [:bilbat:2]

    When I designed my workstation, I designed it to be a prodigious 'heat-mover'; I started with a Cosmos case, that comes with one intake, and three exhaust fans (two in the top, one at the rear), and I 'cobbled in' another intake pair, to 'suck air' through the (tool-less, slide-in) drive rack; fans on NB, SB, RAM, and an Arctic 7 on the CPU; but, I intended to run it in a large, cool basement... So happens I do my 'integrations' (whack together systems [:bilbat:8] ) in the same basement - found out that the dust there was going to be intolerable, even with filtered intakes - shop is in same area, and sawdust is just nasty stuff; 'sticky', due to the sap component, and then the sap 'cooks out' and the whole crap hardens into cement! :cry: In the five weeks it took me to get it running the way I wanted it, I already had a layer of 'crud' on everything!

    So, it got moved into a 'nook' in my somewhat small (~hundred square foot) bedroom, where it proceeded to heat the room to the point where, even in winter, with the heating duct to the room blocked, you could pretty much truss up a turkey and roast it in the room. Didn't even want to know what it'd be like in summer!

    Emergency fix? [:bilbat] 'Dump' the heat to the floor below... After being told by the 'water-cooling pundits' that this was impossible, I figured out they had no real concept of hydraulics - in a closed loop, the mass of the water being 'pushed up' by the pump is exactly equal to the mass of the water 'falling down' into the radiator - zero effect! I only spill the heat from the vidcards and CPU, as none of the suppliers could get their act together to stock or sell all the parts - to WC any of: SB, NB, or MOSFETS, you have to cool all three, as the board has a heat-pipe cooler on 'em - I still actually have a MOSFET cooling block laying around, as no one seemed to be able to produce either of the other two :heink:

    Cobbled up this:

    with a couple 'quick-disconnect' fittings to take the water into the floor behind the wall; the MOLEX connects a 12V fan output from the MOBO to a relay to turn on the basement 10-16V (fan/pump speed 'tuneable', by season) 8 amp power supply that runs the fans & pump, and brings the 'monitor circuits' from the pump and fans back to the MOBO for failure alarms; the switch 'bypasses' the relay, so I can turn on the power without the MOBO active, to 'burp' the lines; and the pilot light tells me the pump/fan supply is on! The pivot mount of the radiator (hung on a dowel with a foam pipe-insulation 'surround', for noise isolation) allows me to run it 'fittings-up', or pivot it 'fittings-down' for draining, without having to 'pull' (remember - overhead - no fun to work on!) radiator...
  14. bilbat said:
    Ahh - the whole thing was kind of 'by accident'! [:bilbat:2]

    When I designed my workstation, I designed it to be a prodigious 'heat-mover'; I started with a Cosmos case, that comes with one intake, and three exhaust fans (two in the top, one at the rear), and I 'cobbled in' another intake pair, to 'suck air' through the (tool-less, slide-in) drive rack; fans on NB, SB, RAM, and an Arctic 7 on the CPU; but, I intended to run it in a large, cool basement... So happens I do my 'integrations' (whack together systems [:bilbat:8] ) in the same basement - found out that the dust there was going to be intolerable, even with filtered intakes - shop is in same area, and sawdust is just nasty stuff; 'sticky', due to the sap component, and then the sap 'cooks out' and the whole crap hardens into cement! :cry: In the five weeks it took me to get it running the way I wanted it, I already had a layer of 'crud' on everything!

    So, it got moved into a 'nook' in my somewhat small (~hundred square foot) bedroom, where it proceeded to heat the room to the point where, even in winter, with the heating duct to the room blocked, you could pretty much truss up a turkey and roast it in the room. Didn't even want to know what it'd be like in summer!

    Emergency fix? [:bilbat] 'Dump' the heat to the floor below... After being told by the 'water-cooling pundits' that this was impossible, I figured out they had no real concept of hydraulics - in a closed loop, the mass of the water being 'pushed up' by the pump is exactly equal to the mass of the water 'falling down' into the radiator - zero effect! I only spill the heat from the vidcards and CPU, as none of the suppliers could get their act together to stock or sell all the parts - to WC any of: SB, NB, or MOSFETS, you have to cool all three, as the board has a heat-pipe cooler on 'em - I still actually have a MOSFET cooling block laying around, as no one seemed to be able to produce either of the other two :heink:

    Cobbled up this:
    http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/5094/water1006s.jpg
    with a couple 'quick-disconnect' fittings to take the water into the floor behind the wall; the MOLEX connects a 12V fan output from the MOBO to a relay to turn on the basement 10-16V (fan/pump speed 'tuneable', by season) 8 amp power supply that runs the fans & pump, and brings the 'monitor circuits' from the pump and fans back to the MOBO for failure alarms; the switch 'bypasses' the relay, so I can turn on the power without the MOBO active, to 'burp' the lines; and the pilot light tells me the pump/fan supply is on! The pivot mount of the radiator (hung on a dowel with a foam pipe-insulation 'surround', for noise isolation) allows me to run it 'fittings-up', or pivot it 'fittings-down' for draining, without having to 'pull' (remember - overhead - no fun to work on!) radiator...



    :o I'm so impressed, in fact i never seen such complex setup in my whole life.....have you ever tried nitrogen cooling? Personally my system is built into a Spedo advanced package and i already feel that i went extreme lol, I'm just thinking (like i always been) about using a nice water cooling system for my CPU and maybe also my GPU......I just don't have the guts to run water into my PC :cry:

    Then again you made the idea of water cooling seem just fine after you showed me your complex setup......Nostalgic i feel remembering my attempt to setup a PC inside a fridge as a method to have a well cooled system without fans or water cooling(don't laugh i really believed i could do it lol)
  15. Ohh - and I'll try to get to that memory config - (I haven't forgotten [:bilbat:2] ) - one of my 'nursing along' jobs here that's been eating a lot of time is 'suspended' due to a short, and I finally dispatched a three page tech support request to Tyan that I've been laboring over for days... Gotta do grocery shopping, and hunt for a couple plumbing fittings, so it'll likely be late in the day :hello:
  16. Ohh - again! Might want to read this Intel P55 tuning guide - it's 'aimed' at Intel MOBOs, and I'm sure the s'ware 'tool' won't work elsewhere, but the concepts and techniques are well-explained...
    http://www.mbreview.com/images/reviews/dp55kg/dp55kg_perf_guide.pdf
  17. Woohoo thanks for the guide, I was in fact reading one and i kinda did it...I just wanna make sure I'v done it right so i took some screens to show u, Please tell me if it's all right :D...


    Here you can see the voltage after i manually set it to 1.64V (since the mobo allows only +2 increments i used 1.64V instead of 1.66V)

    Here you can see the timings i manually set but the command rate was left to auto and the mobo chose 1T for me (i think it's better than 2T right?)

    So now windows is running like it should but ill also run memtest to make sure everything is fine (my first time using memtest if u have any fast tips :))

    Thanks a lot for everything bilbat I really appreciate it
  18. [:bilbat:5] Looks great to me!

    Yes indeed, 1T is definitely better than 2T - assuming it passes MemTest

    MemTest is pretty much a no-brainer - you burn the CD, you boot to it - & let 'er rip, for as long as you have patience for - I usually 'qualify' machines with an overnight run, but a pass or two should do it!

    Always welcome! :hello:

    Some more handywork - fourth last post here:
    http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/271515-30-removal-mount-backplate

    and, of course, the 'pilot's station:


    and a 'toy' I built decade & a half back:


  19. bilbat said:
    [:bilbat:5] Looks great to me!

    Yes indeed, 1T is definitely better than 2T - assuming it passes MemTest

    MemTest is pretty much a no-brainer - you burn the CD, you boot to it - & let 'er rip, for as long as you have patience for - I usually 'qualify' machines with an overnight run, but a pass or two should do it!

    Always welcome! :hello:

    Some more handywork - fourth last post here:
    http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/271515-30-removal-mount-backplate

    and, of course, the 'pilot's station:
    http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/7126/screenssmall.jpg

    and a 'toy' I built decade & a half back:
    http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/9847/front02small.jpg
    http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/1827/side01small.jpg
    http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/8763/cockpit6x4.jpg

    Wow, Is that car real or what? O_o LOVE it it's classic yet sporty somehow :love: . The best thing I could do is build a mere PC.

    About memtest i left it for like 10 hours and the result was as shown in the picture below....



    :(, Is that bad news? Should I test with 2T?
  20. The first thing I'd try is 'bumping up' that ram voltage the next 'step' to 1.66, and also bump up your tRFC a bit, to either 84 or 88, and run another pass or three - you're really close, as you only had one error in nine passes!
  21. bilbat said:
    The first thing I'd try is 'bumping up' that ram voltage the next 'step' to 1.66, and also bump up your tRFC a bit, to either 84 or 88, and run another pass or three - you're really close, as you only had one error in nine passes!


    Ok ill do that, I was 2 scared to go for 1.66V but lets face it 0.1 won't torch my mobo i guess xD. ill post back after some testing is done :)
  22. Might help - one odd thing I've noticed about OCZ ram, while answering posts here, is that it seems to require varying voltage, apparently dependent on chipset or controller. An example: for DDR2, the 'standard' voltage for 800 is 1.8V; for fast memory (1066-1200), it's normally 2.1; OCZ sometimes has spec'd 2.2, and I've found that the same part number RAM that will run at, say, 2.05 on one 'flavor' of board, will require the full 2.2 on boards with other chipsets - don't ask me why :??:
  23. bilbat said:
    Might help - one odd thing I've noticed about OCZ ram, while answering posts here, is that it seems to require varying voltage, apparently dependent on chipset or controller. An example: for DDR2, the 'standard' voltage for 800 is 1.8V; for fast memory (1066-1200), it's normally 2.1; OCZ sometimes has spec'd 2.2, and I've found that the same part number RAM that will run at, say, 2.05 on one 'flavor' of board, will require the full 2.2 on boards with other chipsets - don't ask me why :??:


    Well I increased the tRFC to 84 and left the voltage @ 1.64V, Left it before i went to work came back and slept then i woke up to this:



    For now ill keep it this way but ill run some more testing, Ill try 80 again and see how it goes, Maybe if i have the guts I could crank it up to 1.66V and see how it goes, For now i have to deal with my i7 860 heat issues (I live in the hottest place on earth :fou: )before maximizing my memory timings.

    I really want to thank you for all the help bilbat, You have been of a great help to me.
  24. Always welcome :hello: !
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