No display, no 8-pin power

I'm using the GA-MA785GM-US2H with the Apevia SECC for an HTPC build. The case came with a 500w psu, but no cable for the 8-pin power for the motherboard. The 20+4 is supplied, but not the 8.

On boot-up, the cpu fan runs and all other components are running (warm, making noise, fans running ect.) but there is simply no display singal. I have tried all three of the integrated ports as well as installling a dedicated card. No display at all. Confirmed on multiple screens as well. Also, the CPU heatsink fans don't feel very warm when the computer is running. YES, the cpu and all other components are installed properly. EXCEPT the 8-pin power. Is that the problem here? Do I have to buy a new PSU?

If its significant, there is a beep noise on boot-up. Sounds normal, but I wouldn't know because there is no key for bios beeps ANYWHERE in the manual. Also, there is no way to power-down the computer, either. Holding down the power has no effect, and their are no onbaord switches. I've been simply yanking the power cable, because the I/O switch is inaccessible. Any ideas what this is all about? Thanks, guys.
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More about display power
  1. Look for a 4 pin connector from the PSU. It will fit into 4 of the 8 holes of the CPU power port. It should be keyed to only fit one way.
  2. I'd have to have the CPU P/N to be sure, and look it up, but my guess is you're likely to need at least a 2x2; 2x4's are usually required only for high TDP processors...
  3. Ok, I have a 2x2 in the slot. CPU is AMD Phenom II 3.0Ghz 2x by the way. Still no display, fans and everything runs as normal, but no display signal at all. ???
  4. If your video card requires a 6 pin PCIe connector, make sure that's connected.
  5. Its integrated graphics. It's stopped booting all together. all I did was try the 2x2 power from the psu again with a different graphics interface. Now it won't boot at all!
  6. Unplug it, reset the cmos, read the manual, and start over. This is what happens when you rush things and get in a hurry.
  7. Fair enough. I'll reply when I get that done
  8. Go here, read it and weep!
    I quit reading after the first dozen failed power supplies...

    Looked at Apevia's manual - looks like a six year old's class project...

    Has no publication date, which might have give us a clue; does not say anywhere what ATX spec # it is; 2.2's (Mar '05) had troubles with a lot of newer processors that effectively power up 'dead' - don't draw enough power to get the PSU to activate the rail; 2.3 (Mar '07) fixed that - no idea here...

    Best advice is probably what a large number of reviewers said : "throw the power supply away and put in another mfg's..."
  9. Yeah. Any recommendations for this mobo/HTPC setup?
  10. Thought I saw a couple reviewers mention actual manufacturers whose stuff they used for the replacement... If not, yank it & get me dimensions, and I'll hunt something down for ya tomorrow...
  11. Okay, I replaced the PSU with an Antec 550w (standard ATX fit)...
    Same problem. I completely rebuilt the system. There is no display signal from the motherboard at all.

    What do I need to replace here?
  12. Give us a full component list to work with; makes it more likely to put together a coherent plan of action...

    Might want to peruse this 'canned' piece in the meantime:

    Mind you, there are two ways to do this: you can do it either in or out of the case. The advantages and drawbacks:in the case is easier and faster, but will not find case-related problems, like shorts from extra, mispositioned standoffs, or ground plane problems; out of the case takes longer, and you may run into 'reach' problems - power supply cables and front panel power switch headers may not be long enough; for the power supply, it's usually just a matter of removing four screws to temorarily relocate it; for the power switch, you can just do this (carefully):

    You only need to short the pins momentarily - that's all the power switch does...Out of the case also affords you an easy opportunity to 'flip' the board to check your heatsink/fan attachment setup, to be sure all the pins are fully seated, locked, and not cracked... If you do the out of the case, you need to lay the board on a non-conductive surface: the box the MOBO came in is ideal; but - the foam pad it came with, and the bag it was in are not - being 'antistat', they are somewhat conductive, and may induce problems...

    Another item worth mention at this point is case speakers: if you haven't got one - get one!
    A lot of people operate under the misaprehension that the 'diagnostic beeps' should come through the speakers attached to their sound-card/chip - not so! Your three hundred dollar Altec-Lansings won't do you any good here - you have to have a case speaker attached to the front panel header, and, often by this point, it's the only diagnostic info you'll have to go on...

    The standard 'strip-down':

    Power down at PSU switch
    remove everything except
    CPU and heatsink/fan (check carefully that the fan retaining pins are fully inserted, completely locked, and not cracked)
    one stick of RAM, in slot closest to CPU
    video card and monitor connector (if more than one PCIe slot, again, in slot closest to CPU)
    all power plugs - 20+4 or 24, 2x2 or 2x4 ATX power, graphics card power
    case speaker and power switch connectors
    keyboard (don't need a mouse at this point)
    place jumper on RST_CMOS pins
    remove jumper from RST_CMOS pins
    power up at PSU switch
    power up by depressing case power switch (or shorting the 'power' pins...)
    If you get video, enter BIOS with <DEL> (may need a <TAB> to get to POST screen, if 'splash' screen is enabled)
    Select and execute "Load Optimized Defaults" - save and exit, reboot
    power down
    reinsert other components, one at a time, testing each time after addition...
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