tiptonsr

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So I am considering upgrading with a 120Gb SSD to compliment my 1Tb HDD. I would like to run my OS, Steam Games, and Photoshop from the SSD. However I do not have the installation disk for windows 7. I have the product key but no disc. So doing a fresh install of windows on the new SSD is probably not going to work without buying it again right? I have read that you can use software like acronis to basically transfer the OS to the new SSD but it seems pretty complicated from what I have read. Are there any step by step how to's on transfering the OS for a noob like me? And can you use the same software to pick and choose software to transfer like photoshop, games etc? Lastly can anyone tell me with any certainty if a 120Gb SDD will be big enough to run windows 7, photoshop and half a dozen newer games?
 
It's always a good idea to do a fresh install when moving to an SSD. If you clone the HDD's copy of the OS, it won't be properly set up to run on the SSD.

If you bought a retail version of the OS from Microsoft and still have the activation key, but lost the media, they were good to me about replacing media. If you bought the system with the OS installed, and the product key that you have is on the sticker on the case, then you are in a pickle. Technically, you are supposed to buy a retail copy of the OS to do the fresh installation.
 

tiptonsr

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A pickle indeed. I have read for a few hours online now and most people say that since I had a OEM system that I can just reinstall windows 7 using phone activation with the same OS on a new SSD. However I am planning on replacing the OEM motherboard too. This is where most people say you can't use the same OEM copy of windows 7 you can upgrade hardware as you see fit but not the MoBo if so you must purchase a new copy. However a few people say they have installed new third party MoBo's and just called windows and they issued them a new activation key. So has anyone actually done this? I would like to install the new MoBo and SDD at the same time and do one fresh install of windows. I really don't want to pay 200 dollars for something I technically already paid for. (damn you microsoft!) If anyone has any first hand experience please help!
 

vvhocare5

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I am disagreeing with Wyoming. I have cloned my copy of Windows back and forth between SSD's in single drive mode, RAID0, back to hard drives and back again. Not one issue. There is no activation issues or anything.

I use software Intel included in their very first SSD kit (I forget its name, but it came out well before Win 7).

I do agree with the statement that installing a fresh copy every now and then is a good idea, but dont use the SSD as the issue.

Regards
 

Zenthar

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OEM license are tied to the motherboard yes, you paid for it, yes, but you paid a discounted price (OEM cost ~100$ and a Retail ~200$). I've also heard of people calling MSoft for a new activation key, but never actually did it. If you buy an new MB, you could also get a new OEM license and pay only 100$ instead of 200$ (but will be tied to your new MB).

BTW, any reason why you would change MB, planning on changing CPU as well?
 
If you are installing on the MB that your "OEM" version is installed on.
Then just barrow a copy of same operating system. Do the install using the "custom" install,do not use the product key. If you used an "upgrade version" you will need to do a simple reg edit to change instalbootmeadia from a 1 to a 0. Also need to do the rearm from cmd prompt. (goodle using upgrade version to do a clean install.

Once this is completed and you are satisfied windows is running properly, then activate using YOU key.

This would be legal as long as you have NOT changed the MB. Just did this a couple of weeks ago on my SB notebook. Used my windows 7 installation disk for my Desktop instead of the supplied recovery disk. Did NOT have to call MS as activation was successfull. The only thing you have canged is the Boot drive. The activation key is tied to multiple factors and if the MB has not been swapped out should be no problem.

And yes, I prefer the clean install over imaging a HDD -> SSD.

you Did pay for the Liecence you have and it is going on the same MB the liecence is tied to, if NOT then above is NOT Legal
 

tiptonsr

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Zenthar, I am planning on swapping motherboard and CPU in the near future, Basically I started out with an OEM desktop HP about 2 years ago. As I have learned more about PC hardware I have begun swapping out parts to a point now where only the MoBo, Ram, ODD, HDD remain. So as you know I am at a point now where I have done everything I can to improve this PC on the existing MoBo and HDD. So I assumed two years ago that you could use OEM Windows on more then one PC as long as the original PC no longer operated or was upgraded. I figured MS monitored the IP address or just updated your MoBo information in their database. So If I am forced to buy a new copy it would be a regular addition so I don't run into this problem again. As you can imagine having to save an extra 200 bucks for something you already have is a pain. I am thinking about buying everything hardware wise, then try to get MS to issue a new key. If not I gues I will have to spend the money. Sucks having to delay the upgrade 2 or 3 more months saving for the extra purchase.
 

tiptonsr

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It seems everyone agrees that a fresh install is better then re imaging. So maybe in the long run its better this way. I will just upgrade the MoBo SSD RAM CPU all at the same time and do a one time fresh install of windows. However when its time to do this I plan to use a 120Gb SSD as a boot drive with windows, steam games, and photoshop. What is the process to remove the old oem windows from the HDD thats going to move to storage drive? should you remove that version then install the new version on the SSD or vice versa? Also when I transfer programs from the HDD to the SDD will they work properly?
 

Zenthar

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IF you were to simply change the HDD to a SSD, imaging would be "ok" (did it on my previous build), but if you change MB, you better do a fresh install. It's not so much for the licensing thign, but for the drivers and settings; since the MB is the "core" of the PC tying everything together, if drivers aren't "clean", you can run in tons of weird problems that will probably take you longer to diagnose than it would have taken you to do a fresh install.
 

Zenthar

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I understand your point. One thing the digital era has brought is a new definition of "ownership"; technically speaking, you practically never own a software, you just purchase a license that gives you the right to use it under certain conditions. This is one of the reason why I'm so much against DRMed media actually.

If you need to get a new license, you might want to consider buying another OEM, it would cost you 100$ instead of 200$; it would still be tied to your new MB, but since Windows 8 will probably be out by the end of next year, you might want to switch to that for your next build anyway. Personally I wouldn't bother with Retail licenses unless you plan on switching motherboard at least twice during a ~3 year period (the math being that there is a new Windows version every 3 year and a retail license cost twice as much as OEM).
 
^ Concur
Your question On old HDD:
(1) when doing a fresh install onto an SSD, ALWAYS do this with the old HDD disconnected. When completed reattach the Old HDD (Don't forget to switch boot order to New SSD in BIOS).
(2) If you did not replace the MB. Leave the Operating system on the Old HDD for a Month to make sure everything is running OK on the SSD. NOTE: you will be able to daul boot to SSD or HDD using the Function key to bring up boot menu during post. After about a month just reformat the old HDD using Windows disk managment.
.. With New MB. After SSD completed, just use windows management to reformat old HDD.
 

The thing that bit me was that the hard-drive installation was not 4k aligned, and when I imaged it to the SSD I got an installation that was not 4k aligned.
 

tiptonsr

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I guess I have a decision to make buy another OEM or retail, I doubt I will be upgrading to windows 8 unitill I know for sure it isn't going to be another vista. But saving the 50 bucks right now is really nice. I am planning to get a new asus Z68 board most likely so I doubt I will have to upgrade to a new MoBo for awhile. If I understand correctly if your motherboard fries or whatever as long as you replace it with the same model you can use the same OEM windows right?
 

Zenthar

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Which is usually the bogus reason most people upgrading will give to Microsoft to have a new key.
 

tiptonsr

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well I will try this out and post back, I am going to simply tell them that my MoBo is two years old and I can't get a new one as they only supply this model to HP and my warranty is expired. (as far as I can tell this is true). We will see what happens, I will post back here the outcome for future references.
 

tiptonsr

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Can anyone reccomend a SSD for me, I have been thinking about the OCZ Vertex 3 but I am reading a few negative reviews on it. Anyone have a good alternative? I am budgeting 150 to 200 for it, and it needs to be at least 120GB as it will be my boot drive.
 

Zenthar

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I own a Vertex 3 and I'm lucky to be one of the people with no issue with my drive, but I also updated the firmware (2.09 at the time) before I even first start using the drive, but this drive came with a bit of performance loss (not really noticeable outside synthetic benchmarks). Now I think they have 2.11 out which is supposed to solve the performance loss "issue".

I think all SandForce drives are having some issues so if you want to stay clear from any of that, you might want to check Corsair or Intel. If you don't mind having to play around with you drive before actually using it, then OCZ is a great performer.
 

tiptonsr

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hmm, that was interesting, especially since I am thinking about getting the same mobo that caused the bsod issues with the vertex 3. I have read that the sandforce line ssd's are the best performers but now I don't know. Maybe if I install all the new firmware before installing the new mobo and windows and then switching it to boot drive and doing the fresh install of windows? I hate this part of technology gambling with a 200 dollar piece of hardware.....

It seems the OCZ vertex 3 is the fastest when it works right do to firmware issues. while the intel 510 is second in performance but way more reliable.... However the Vertex 3 is on sale for 220 before a 20 dollar mail in rebate as opposed to the intel 510 at 279 so roll the dice once again... cheap and fastest/ less reliable or more expensive and slower /more reliable? I guess I am a glutten for punishment still thinking OCZ vertex they have to fix the firmware eventually......right?
 

Zenthar

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From the discussions I followed, the BSOD with OCZ might actually be caused by the environment more than the hardware. I've seen some people reporting BSOD on the same CPU/MB that I have even with the 2.09 FW I'm using, but I got no problems. Personally I don't regret my purchase, but I wouldn't recommend OCZ for anyone who is looking for a trouble-free build.