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Water Cooling, HAF-X, Virgin

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January 16, 2012 12:25:12 AM

As the topic states i'm A) a water cooling virgin (H100 dont count). B) using the Cooler Master HAF-X pc case.

I've tried randomly searching boards and vids for what I need to do and such but i always run into the problem of, it's over-detailed, or not detailed enough. I'm an idiot. An idiot who just spent around 4000$ on a PC, and wanting to spend a little more. My set up
Cooler Master HAF-X
i7-2600k @ 4.6 Ghz
SLI (2) GTX 580 3GB
Asus Maximus IV Extreme-Z
Samsung 820 series 256gb SSD
Seagate 750 GB SSHD (HDD)

So, my biggest problem at the moment is figuring out, piece by piece, what i'm going to need to water cool this machine. I meen fittings, Radiator(s), Pump(s) e.t.c. I was hoping at first to not get rid of the H100 and just cool the gpu's but it looks like it would be easier to just replace the H100 and do the CPU and GPU with the same loop or w/e. If i'm wrong feel free to correct me. Not really caring about HDD cooling. Even mounting options seem horrible, especially if i dont remove the h100. So if anyone would be kind enough to help yet another board cluttering noob with these specific details, it would be much appriciated, thanks.
January 16, 2012 1:26:27 AM

I really liked the water cooling sticky in these forums.. and it will really be worth your time to spend the time to read the "over-detailed" guides. You can really lose the advantage of water cooling by trying to rush through it as fast as possible.. there are just a million things that go into it, the more you know the better your loop will turn out.

I will however mention a few things that come to mind and weren't immediately obvious to me:
- alot of people recommend the RX 360 radiator (good performance w/ low speed fans), although for all you are trying to cool.. you may need additional rad space, perhaps an RX 240 or a second RX 360 to keep the temps down where you want them.
- when you choose fittings, barbs really perform just about the same as compression fittings, you really open up the wallet for the asthetics of compression fittings
- when you fill up your loop, use just plain old distilled water + PT nuke or a silvercoil (to kill algae). I only mention this because there was so much bad information out there recommending pre-mixed solutions and dyes etc, it was hard to sift through it all to really figure out what was best

So overall you'll be buying a cpu waterblock + 2 gpu blocks (you may want to do a little reading over full cover vs universal blocks), pump (there are a couple that people recommend.. I can't remember the names off the top of my head), reservoir, radiator(s), fittings, and tubing. Obviously also the distilled water & PT nuke/silver coil that I already mentioned. Good luck and I hope you spend the time doing the proper research before throwing it together!
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January 16, 2012 1:32:44 AM

I'm still researching ^^. Kinda like when i built this rig last xmas, i didnt know anything bout parts, researched for like 2 weeks before i even started filling my cart, then another 2 cross examining and comparing. Only dif here is the fact that so many guides have different advice. Was hoping some one here might have already water cooled a HAF-X and could give me a good guide line. Even the waterblocks which i thought would be simple, 2 EVGA hydro copper 2 water blocks, seems complicated as their are other i guess. And as you said for what im trying to cool, i thot cooling the cpu + 2-4 gpu was the common practice.
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January 16, 2012 3:07:34 AM

It is difficult when the guides conflict.. but I'd highly recommend the guide stickied at the top of these forums.. it has alot of good stuff + links to more good stuff.

As far as the HAF-X case, I'm actually using that myself.
http://i39.tinypic.com/9bkehl.jpg

There is room for a thick 360 rad to fit inside, but it is a little tight. I tried to fit 3 120mm fans below it pushing air through, but RAM is just slightly blocking the middle fan. I know it's possible to take out the HDD cage to mount another smaller radiator internally (rx 240 in the build that I saw), but that may or may not be necessary for you. It is pretty commonplace to cool cpu + multiple gpus, but so is multiple radiators. You'll just need to take a look at the TDP of every part in the loop you are trying to cool, then find someone who's done some testing on different rads (skinnee labs is a great source) to figure out how much heat they can dissipate depending on fan speeds and water flow. You can take a look at the RX 360 here. You'll then need to figure out what kind of delta C you are looking for.. which is all covered in the water cooling guide sticked at the top of these forums. There are alot of helpful people (and far more knowledgeable than myself) on these forums, but they are unlikely to really help with questions addressed in the guide.
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a c 190 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 6:55:17 AM

One thing to keep an eye on when reading guides is the hardware they are cooling, if someone is reviewing xxx cpu block for a prescott chip, you know that its way, way wa...Hay out of date,
The sticky here is great, and I also recommend you to spend a good while reading it,
I would second the rad calculation too, RX360 and RX240 will cover you, although more is never bad hehe
and the EX series are almost as good as the RX ones, but slimmer, the same size as the RS so that middle fan may not be an issue for you at least, Gbk, have you tried a slimmer set of fans btw?
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g36/c15/s972/list/p1/Fa... are slightly thinner and may give you that fan back (I did mean to ask you about that in the other thread :p )

Moto
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January 16, 2012 7:32:44 AM

Motopsychojdn said:
One thing to keep an eye on when reading guides is the hardware they are cooling, if someone is reviewing xxx cpu block for a prescott chip, you know that its way, way wa...Hay out of date,
The sticky here is great, and I also recommend you to spend a good while reading it,
I would second the rad calculation too, RX360 and RX240 will cover you, although more is never bad hehe
and the EX series are almost as good as the RX ones, but slimmer, the same size as the RS so that middle fan may not be an issue for you at least, Gbk, have you tried a slimmer set of fans btw?
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g36/c15/s972/list/p1/Fa... are slightly thinner and may give you that fan back (I did mean to ask you about that in the other thread :p )

Moto


:o  I didn't know they made 12mm thick fans! Too bad it's a sleeve bearing.. but I'll probably end up ordering one (or maybe 3 so they match.. not really sure if that matters) Thanks for the great idea! :D 
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a c 190 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 7:38:36 AM

I would say to match the cfm, if the two fans have different cfm ratings, go for three scythes :) 
Moto
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January 16, 2012 12:21:48 PM

gbkinum1 said:
It is difficult when the guides conflict.. but I'd highly recommend the guide stickied at the top of these forums.. it has alot of good stuff + links to more good stuff.

As far as the HAF-X case, I'm actually using that myself.
http://i39.tinypic.com/9bkehl.jpg

There is room for a thick 360 rad to fit inside, but it is a little tight. I tried to fit 3 120mm fans below it pushing air through, but RAM is just slightly blocking the middle fan. I know it's possible to take out the HDD cage to mount another smaller radiator internally (rx 240 in the build that I saw), but that may or may not be necessary for you. It is pretty commonplace to cool cpu + multiple gpus, but so is multiple radiators. You'll just need to take a look at the TDP of every part in the loop you are trying to cool, then find someone who's done some testing on different rads (skinnee labs is a great source) to figure out how much heat they can dissipate depending on fan speeds and water flow. You can take a look at the RX 360 here. You'll then need to figure out what kind of delta C you are looking for.. which is all covered in the water cooling guide sticked at the top of these forums. There are alot of helpful people (and far more knowledgeable than myself) on these forums, but they are unlikely to really help with questions addressed in the guide.


your case is so tidyi had to take off the lil air duct and the lil wire hider thing by the PSU, i got a Pro 1250W XFX Black Edition, and the cords are so stiff, and seem kinda short that the only way i could run the cords was straight from PSU to GPU, the motherboard 24(?) pin power connector was barely able to go thru the back of the case. I'm gonna try and read the sticky again it's just alil much to comprehend for me since i dont know the lingo. I did see a video on metacafe from toms hardware, or some one who posts here, who posted how to cool an entire system including the HDD's, but it was crazy. Anyways, thanks for the help, ill select a best awnser in a tad bit ^^
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a c 324 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 12:52:11 PM

Glad the sticky was to your liking...Let me know if there is anything I can help with, or need to specify in the sticky. I know it's a lot of information to take in, but hopefully it helps more than it confuses. :) 
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January 16, 2012 1:23:43 PM

Upon re-reading the sticky, and several of the links provided i have come to the conclusion, there isn't enough aspirin in the world to facilitate the head ache i am enduring right now. I though building my rig to be the best for my budget was a head ache, this is far worse. The problem is that theres so much information, and so much to know I can't seem to process it. PSI's, GPM's, Rad Sizes and the FPI, Pumps, i still cant figure out what a fittings fits. I dream of taking full advantage of the machine i built, but with my lack of tech knowledge and comprehension I think water cooling is beyond my capability to design. :( .
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a c 324 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 1:26:19 PM

First, what questions do you want us to decipher for you, specifically? Maybe this would help to know what you are wanting to find out and we could go with a specific approach for your build. Give us 2-3 questions to start off and let's see what we can answer for you...once you get the fundamentals, the rest is just budget. :) 
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January 16, 2012 1:36:27 PM

I'm wracking my my brain trying to even figure out what to ask that would help me now. I'm going to try and do a little bit more on my own and see what comes of it, perhaps when i'm done with this process, i can come back here post, what i have chosen, and we can go from there.

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a c 190 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 1:59:07 PM

Hehe, watercooling is a project/hobby all its own man, as you've discovered it can be more of a headache than the actual Pc it cools :p 
take your time and ask what you want/need to, we're always hanging about :) 
Moto
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a c 324 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 2:02:08 PM

Watercooling is much more a hobby than anything...it captures your interest, you get started with some intro components and if you get into it, you start to make it more and more of your daily thought process.

I tried this with golf years ago, but no matter what I did, I always ended up frustrated. With watercooling, it just gets better and better the more time you spend on it.
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January 16, 2012 3:22:42 PM

well i decided to give myself a budget of somewhere around 500$. However like my PC that had a budget of 2500$ quickly became a 4300$ build once i started adding extra's. So I'm trying to take this in a different direction now rather then trying to eat so much info. at one time i have went part by part. So heres what I've done so far

Pump:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2128/ex-pmp-27/Swifte...

Radiator: Everything i read about the HAF-X in general, and the RAD i'll need to cool the CPU and 2 GTX 580 lead me to this. Any info. would be appriciated. Dimensions and the reliability/performance of this rad and others seems to be highly dif in peoples eyes.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14266/ex-rad-298/Aqua...

Rad. Fans: 3 of.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10029/fan-642/Scythe_...

Resovoir: No clue here.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsacdu5refor1.html

CPU Block: Only saw 3 that even fit the 1155 on the site, i chose this.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14214/ex-blc-977/Heat...

GPU Blocka:
Not a Clue nothing I find has any real awnser for the GTX 580's.

Obviously i didn't mention hoses or fitting as I don't know what i would need. maybe we can go from here, make changes or add, what not.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 3:30:10 PM

AquaComputers are pretty pricey and their radiators are a bit more restrictive than most other brands...this is due to AC using smaller channels and design for lower flow rates on their components...in Europe, this is the norm, in the US, we go for higher flow. It isn't better one way or another- it's just a difference in cooling design principles.

You are looking at a lot of cooling-
CPU TDP = 95 watts (@stock speed)
GTX 580 TDP = 244 watts (@stock speed) (x2)

You could barely get by (only at stock speeds, mind you) on a single, thick, high-performing 360 rad, but you'll likely need the equivalent of a 240 and 360 for this loop (either thick or thin) or even two 360's depending on how much overclocking you intend to do.

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January 16, 2012 3:45:39 PM

Welcome to your new hobby.
Now with the components you are going to cool i would consider an external radiator. 1 internal 360 rad is not enough for an overclocked CPU + 2 high-powered GPUs.
That is if you want a silent system. If you don't care about the noise you can use an internal 360 rad, slap on the fastest fans you can find and buy some good ear protection for the money you saved.

Your GTX 580s need to be cooled by a fullcover block, GPU only is usually not enough for high-end cards.

Heatkiller and DangerDan make some very nice fullcover GPU blocks, their CPU blocks are also very good.

For pumps i would suggest one of the "classics" - Laing/Swiftech. They are easy to get, easy to maintain, you can get various covers to suit your style, and they are very widely used, to it should be easy to find help if you run into any problems.

Barbs/clamps and tubing are really a matter of personal preference, any tube with an ID of 3/8" (~10mm) or greater is good, thicker walls allow tighter bends without kinking.
Nearly all fittings and components have G1/4" threads, only some old and outdated ones might use G1/8", and some exotic modern ones use G3/8". If you want to avoid hunting for exotic/special parts and using converters you will want to stick with G1/4".
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a c 100 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 4:37:31 PM

I'd argue that you don't need a full cover block at all. It is preferable to be sure, but you save $50 or more per GPU by getting a solid universal block and some VRAM/VRM heat sinks. If the case has good air flow it shouldn't be a big issue. Especially if you can get a Silverstone Penetrator pointing right at them.
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January 16, 2012 7:13:34 PM

So if i go dual RAD, a 360 top, cud i put a second 360 on the back thats not the same, or smaller? such as the 1 above and this 1:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/4283/ex-rad-88/Black_...
or should i get a smaller rad, or the same size as the 1 i chose to top mount?
Also will i need 2 pumps to do this?


I suppose I should state my intentions are heavy over-clocking, best I really get with air is 880 Mhz. and I would like to take these babies as high as i can, at least 930-950 Mhz
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a c 324 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 7:50:24 PM

BIX rad, eh? Why instead of any other 360 rad?
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January 16, 2012 8:08:13 PM

what u mean BIX rad? i was just lookin for a cheaper RAD otherwise im lookin at 1000$ by the time im done here. I'm starting to think that maybe i can just do 1 rear exterior 360 Rad for the GPU's and keep the H100 for my CPU, it seems to do its job very well it just isnt flashy and pretty.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 8:14:19 PM

Black Ice Extreme = BIX

I know it's actually a GT, but almost the same exact rad.

Quote:
Unprecedented Ultra-high 30 FPI (Fins Per Inch) fin density providing dramatically increased heat transfer surface area


Vs. 7-12 FPI for most other radiators.

$1000? How do come up with those figures? You really should be looking at around $600-$700 range...(just off the top of my head).
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January 16, 2012 8:26:48 PM

i maya added something up wrong, but it was
2 360 RAD (180$ each)
2 GTX 580 waterblocks (150$ each)
1 CPU block (90$)
2 Pumps (90$ each)
3 scythe fans (16$ each)

thats 978$ and thats without adding tubing, fittings, and coolant.

So i'm doing something wrong or buying stuff i dont need, or rather, buying far more expensive then needed. Which is more-or-less why i came here to the forums, being it the only 1 i trust. For help designing my water cooling system.
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a c 100 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 8:32:06 PM

Why 2 pumps?
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a c 324 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 8:37:03 PM

Quote:
2 360 RAD (180$ each)


Should be at most $90-$100 each.

Quote:
2 GTX 580 waterblocks (150$ each)


What blocks are these? Most full cover blocks are at most $125 or so.

Quote:
1 CPU block (90$)


What CPU block? Most are $55-$75

You also don't need 2 pumps- I run a loop almost exactly the same size with a single MCP655 pump...and those are around $75/each.



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January 16, 2012 8:40:21 PM

The rad and cpu block are the ones mentioned in my post above with links in it, and the waterblocks i just decided to go with the EVGA GTX 580 Hydro Copper 2. They look nice and supposedly are very good. but im open to suggestions on anything. I've been lookin and reading all morning it's getting hard to decipher things apart.

edit; thot id need 2 pumps, for 2 360 rad's, but if i only do 1 thats still a huge price tag.
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a c 100 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 8:45:54 PM

Hah yeah don't buy $180 aluminum rads. Not a good buy.

Hell, Swiftech MCR320 Quiet Power rads at $65 each would be enough.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 8:56:16 PM

^ That's what I run...two MCR320's.

Even at around $90 XSPC RX360s or Magicool thick 360's would be a better choice.

If the cards are reference nVidia cards, you can get reference GTX 580 blocks. Otherwise, you can consider universal GPU blocks and add appropriate heatsinks where needed. (also what I do).
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January 16, 2012 9:02:10 PM

lol at the virgin terminology :lol: 
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January 16, 2012 9:04:44 PM

Waterblock i wouldnt mind spending the lil extra on since it was made specifically for the card in question thats why i just picked those. Reviews i find are all very nice for them.

The extra money for a better performance would be fine, so 2 of the XSPC 360 would be fine if they fit the haf-x and dont crush my ram sticks.

any reccomendation on CPU block?
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a c 324 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 9:10:19 PM

To be perfectly honest, you aren't going to be able to tell performance differences between almost all CPU blocks and GPU blocks by well-known brands, so most of the selection will be personal preference and budget. There is really only 2-5C difference in performance across the board and in many instances, it's give/take on which is better in each category. Radiators are a little bit more distinguishable (but not a lot), but Skinnee has most of those covered in his radiator reviews. Most 360 rads will dissipate 525-600 watts or so on average with 1200-1500 rpm fans; even more with higher speed/static pressure fans.
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January 16, 2012 9:25:54 PM

ok so

Rad: 2
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8523/ex-rad-146/XSPC_...

Pump: 1
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2128/ex-pmp-27/Swifte...

GPU waterblock: 2 (unless theres a cheaper full block with as good performance)
http://www.evga.com/products/moreInfo.asp?pn=400-CU-G58...

CPU block: 1
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14525/ex-blc-1007/Alp...

Resovoir: (had no input here so chose this)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11219/ex-res-232/XSPC...

Tubing/fittings/clamps/coolant:
Not sure what fittings i need given the above parts, coolant i havent looked at yet. and tubing i havent looked at yet cuz im not sure what size it needs to be given parts above.

Am I on the right track finaly?

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a c 100 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 9:35:04 PM

Pretty good. Strictly speaking, you don't need a resevoir with that much radiator - there's already going to be lots of water in the loop. Not that it's a bad idea or anything, and that one is nice because the pump goes right inside it.
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January 16, 2012 9:38:17 PM

i didnt even notice that the pump sticks in that..but i think that would be ideal if its safe, i dont really have a clue where id stick the pump given my current set-up, maybe i shud just provide pictures of my case and its insides.

Just looking at fittings now..trying to decide barb or compression i hear they are the same really so just lookin around. but quick question on that, do both use clamps? and how does each 1 rly work i cant find a clear awnser.
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a c 100 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 9:45:55 PM

Same thing. There's a 1/2" barb on one end, that sticks inside your tube. You clamp on that. On the other end is a G1/4" thread, which goes into your rad/block/pump. A lot of items come with barbs already, like your pump, so you only need to purchase a few where they are not included, unless you need to buy special 90 or 45 degree fittings.
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January 16, 2012 9:51:31 PM

alright i picked some tygon tubing i guess last question in all of this would be, coolant. i was looking at some EK EKoolant Premium Liquid Cooling Premix Coolant - 1L - Blood Red (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14161/ex-liq-191/EK_E...)
mostly cuz i want it to be colored, pref red or blue, cant figure out how much this resovoir takes or if this coolant is wat i need, shud i get the and an addative..?
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a c 100 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 10:01:45 PM

You can just buy destilled water from the grocery store and use a colored anti-bacterial additive. Or just buy colored tubing.
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January 16, 2012 10:05:02 PM

destilled water..rly? Buddy was tellin me its better to go with these coolants as they arent conductive and im a noob...basicly. but i did pick out some red tubing.
Danger Den DreamFlex Value Pack - Tubing / Clamps / Tube Cutter ( 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD ) - UV Red ($30)

believe thats the right size, i made all my fittins in my cart 1/2" (1/4 barb) or w/e
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a c 324 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 11:33:57 PM

No, any liquid becomes conductive once in contact with metals in the loop, so that validity is easily null after a while. Most of it is marketing hype, anyways.

FWIW...distilled water is 'non-conductive' out of the jug, so have him put that in his pipe and smoke it. Almost all enthusiasts run distilled and either biocide and/or a killcoil. If you want color, get colored tubing that is UV reactive and some LED/UV reactive lighting. Some additives/coolants break down under high-stress/high-load environments which clogs waterblocks and gets lodged in other components.

Reservoir size doesn't make a difference on temps, so don't let that impact your decisions. Some reservoirs allow for an integrated pump, some do not...some are res/tops for a pump, others are simply just standalone.
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January 16, 2012 11:38:52 PM

awesome. I grabbed some distilled water it may be cheaper at a store but more convenient for me to order, ill just find some addative and what nots for color. Think im all set.


ex-blc-1007

Alphacool HF 14 Yellowstone - Copper Edition Sockel 775/1366/1156/1155 $49.95 $49.95
fan-642

Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm x 25mm Fan - 1150 RPM (D1225C12B3AP-13)

Sleeve The Cable(s): Yes (Select Sleeve Color Next) ($3.99)
Select Your Cable Sleeve Color: Kobra High Density Black
Select Your Heatshrink Color: Blue UV Reactive
Replace Connector: Yes ($2.99)
Select Replacement Connectors Colors: UV Blue
$22.93 $137.58
ex-tub-990

Danger Den DreamFlex Value Pack - Tubing / Clamps / Tube Cutter ( 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD ) - UV Red $29.95 $29.95
ex-rad-146

XSPC RX360 Triple 120mm Radiator Rev 2.

Select G 1/4" Fittings (Qty. 2): 1/2" ID Barb - Black ($7.00)
$101.99 $203.98
koo-278

Koolance 1/2" (13mm) ID G1/4 Threaded Barb Pair w/ Hose Clamps (NZL-V13BP) $10.99 $21.98
ex-liq-202

Alphacool Ultra Pure Water - 1000mL $11.99 $11.99
ex-liq-37

PrimoChill Liquid Utopia - Blood Red

Color!: Blood Red
Utopia!: Utopia Clear
$9.99 $9.99
ex-res-232

XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir - Laing D5 / MCP655 w/ Blue LED Light - Clear / Silver / Black

Select a Swiftech MCP655 Pump: Swiftech MCP655-B ($89.95)
Select G 1/4" Fittings (Qty. 2): 1/2" ID Barb - Black ($7.00)
$156.90 $156.90
Subtotal: $622.32


thats my current cart i THINK i have everything.
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January 16, 2012 11:40:14 PM

kjriot said:
destilled water..rly? Buddy was tellin me its better to go with these coolants as they arent conductive and im a noob...basicly. but i did pick out some red tubing.
Danger Den DreamFlex Value Pack - Tubing / Clamps / Tube Cutter ( 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD ) - UV Red ($30)

believe thats the right size, i made all my fittins in my cart 1/2" (1/4 barb) or w/e


oh you.. I mentioned coolant in my first response to you :non: 

Pure water is actually not very conductive at all, as a matter of fact.. the purity of water is often based on how conductive it is (the less conductive.. the more pure), but any liquid you are looking at will become conductive the moment it leaves the loop and picks up any dust/particles etc that it touches. On top of that, many coolants available have additives that either gum up your blocks or just flat out don't perform as well as distilled water.. just use distilled water with colored tubing.. you'll thank yourself later :p 

Don't forget some PT Nuke/silver coil to kill any critters/algae in there :p 
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a c 324 K Overclocking
January 16, 2012 11:42:47 PM

Quote:
Pure water is actually not very conductive at all, as a matter of fact.. the purity of water is often based on how conductive it is (the less conductive.. the more pure), but any liquid you are looking at will become conductive the moment it leaves the loop and picks up any dust/particles etc that it touches. On top of that, many coolants available have additives that either gum up your blocks or just flat out don't perform as well as distilled water.. just use distilled water with colored tubing.. you'll thank yourself later

Don't forget some PT Nuke/silver coil to kill any critters/algae in there


Yep, completely agree.
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January 17, 2012 12:09:55 AM

Im being told again that having 1 loop for the cpu and 2 gpu and 2 360 RAD is completly useless, that i shud do 2 loops, cpu by itself, and 1 for the gpu's, 2 seperate water systems, a 360 and a 240...im just..so confused now.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
January 17, 2012 12:15:12 AM

No...who are you being told by?

There is no benefit of dual loops over a single serial loop, or even dual shared loops. A single loop or even dual loops that share a reservoir take advantage of all the radiator space in your system which is ideal instead of wasting extra space that might be under-utilized in a dual loop.

Where are you getting this info? Gabe from Swiftech as posted some detailed test results (I have them linked in the WC sticky) that go over these facts. Please link to the advice you're getting.

Edit: Link to information discussed above: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?254683-Dual-Loop-versus-Single-the-facts

Quote:
Conclusions:

Under extreme performance scenarios, and from a pure performance standpoint, dual loops versus single loop are neither better nor worse, under the strict condition that the load ratios are evenly balanced.
Under the most commonly encountered loads though, single loops do win.

Under both of the above use scenarios, single loops also win from a reliability standpoint because of pump redundancy.

The choice is yours to make.
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January 17, 2012 12:37:08 AM

buddy of mine was tellin me this and referred me to that site.

his logic is that by going over the cpu ur taking just hot water to the gpu's, and that both require seperate flow, cpu high, gpu low, meening 2 systems not 1 big loop
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a c 190 K Overclocking
January 17, 2012 12:51:45 AM

I'm going to upset your mate then, I plan on throwing the water through my two 6950's, then a 480, then the Cpu before a final rad
I also have three resses atm, it will be four when the cards go in :-)
Moto
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a c 324 K Overclocking
January 17, 2012 1:02:22 AM

Can you link the site? Every good watercooler knows that there isn't such a thing as 'hot water' in a watercooling loop. If your loop is designed with any planning, the actual water temperature should be within 10C or even 15C of room temperature. This would make the water at most, lukewarm: example- 75F = ~24C with a 10C delta, would be 35C = 93F...at most maybe human body temps of 98.6F or 37C. Your water temp should never really be warmer than this...your CPU/GPU temp measurements will be different and higher, but doesn't equate to actual water temps as 1:1.

Sorry, but your friend is incorrect. A serial loop with the exact same components will out-perform and out cool the same exact components in a dual loop setup with segregated CPU and GPUs.
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January 17, 2012 1:23:08 AM

Wasn't on a site was on a game, but think we came to the 1 loop going
res>pump>cpu>rad>gpu>rad>res
Edit) or res/pump > rad > cpu > rad > gpu > gpu > res/pump, so it goes thru a rad b4 a new component
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a c 324 K Overclocking
January 17, 2012 1:28:18 AM

Ahh, I see.

Loop order does not matter when it comes to temps...the biggest concern is making sure your pump doesn't suck air, so having the res > pump (with the res being higher than the pump inlet) helps tremendously. This isn't a golden rule, just a very *strong* suggestion by most watercooling folks as it makes filling and bleeding air from the loop easier.

My loop goes: res > pump > cpu > gpu > gpu > rad > rad

You really won't see more than 2-5C difference in actual water temps at any single point within the loop.
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