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Confused about my Bios CPU overvoltage setting

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  • Overclocking
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January 22, 2012 12:13:57 PM

36 People Read and not one reply come on people i think i explained good enough
I have Re'edited this for the 3rd time to try help somone to help me
Hi
I hope this doesn't confuse but it is basically the best way I could explain my Bios settings and the increments that they go up by some of which seem completely alien to any overclocking Videos i have seen on youtube which seem to have simpler bios settings than mine so I hope someone gets something they can work with from my Info I have given co's as of yet 36 reads and no replys so i have re'edited to explain my Method of explaining this problem hope it helps

Now
My Pc is a Phenom ii x6 1100t on an asus M5A78L AM3+ Motherboard with 4x 1 gb ddr3 1333mhz HD 6770 GPU,with a 700w evo labs PSU. Arctic cooling Freezer 7 Pro cooling

I am confused about My Bios because I have read that to overclock to 3.8 - 4.0 Ghz You need to have your CPU voltage to 1.40 -1.50 volts However mine is CPU (Overvoltage) and goes up from Auto to 1.025000 then to 1.028125 -1.031250 etc etc and it is a hell of a long way to get to 1.40 which to me seems strange because the stock Voltage is 1.325 volts so as a result I have no Idea where to set it co's if I do go all the way up to 1.40 (What I think is 1.40 volts it's 1.40 something lol) it's a hell of a long way and the text turns yellow?

My other settings go up in the following increments if you can tell anything useful from this

CPU/NB frequency goes from 800mhz -1000mhz-1200mhz etc
VD/NB overvoltage goes from 0.850000 -0.853125 etc etc
Memory overvoltage goes from 1.35000 -1.36000etc etc
HT Link Speed goes from 200mhz -400mhz etc etc
HT Overvoltage goes from 1.20000 -1.21000 etc etc
memory clock speed goes from 800mhz -1067mhz -1333mhz (do I set this to what my Ram is 1333mhz 2 x 667mhz?)


The main thing that confuses me is why my CPU overvoltage increments seem so small and low but if anyone can help me with any of the other settings it would be most appreciated.
I have been advised that overclocking with 4 sticks of ram in all the slots make it harder to overclock but as it is i can't seem to get past 3560 mhz on a 3300mhz chip which is lame otherwise i get overclocking errors or it just hangs any help anyone can give me on overclocking this rig will be well appreciated

As it is I can't get anything to take really and it will crash in game after a slight increase so something isn't right
The PC is a brand new build and works fine at stock settings
Thanks in advance for any help
Lee

Oh by the way I am a beginner so nothing too compicated please "says me who just confused you with lotsa numbers lol"

More about : confused bios cpu overvoltage setting

January 22, 2012 5:51:25 PM

You have to disable AMD Cool'n Quiet from the BIOS to be able to OverVolt your cpu, since Cool'n Quiet lowers Voltage and Hertz when CPU is not under load to be more power-efficient.

Hope it helps! :) 
January 22, 2012 5:53:12 PM

1.5V? You're going to fry your CPU...

Also, If you have an 780G or 880G Motherboard, download AMD OverDrive and you can OverClock within Windows...
Related resources
a c 197 K Overclocking
January 23, 2012 6:58:47 AM

But learning to use the BIOS is better.
January 23, 2012 7:29:45 AM

i wouldnt oc a 6 core cpu with that heatsink, you won't get very far. the jump from 1.325v to 1.40v sounds about right when your doing a 400 to 500mhz oc
a b K Overclocking
January 23, 2012 7:36:41 AM

The text just turns yellow because you're in what the BIOS/board manfacturer had determined to be high enough above stock they should "warn" you. think traffic light. If you have good cooling it should not be an issue, but watch your CPU temps. I have had my 550 BE (unlocked to a quad) up to 1.5v, which is in the red on my board and I don't really suggest, with no issue. its been running at 1.4875V for years though. 1.4V would not concern me if you have Hood aftermarket cooling , but you should start at stock and bump it up one notch at a time till your overclock is stable. lower the voltage the better. to test for stability run prime 95 for at least an hour and watch your CPU temps.

If you are increasing the "FSB" instead of the CPU multiplier you are also increasing the memory controller and ram speed. you may need to bump memory voltage and CPU northbridge voltage to stabalize them. to avoid these problems while seeing what your CPU can handle set your ram multiplier(or speed) one below what it is rated. once you know what the CPU is stable at you can deal with the ram.

EDIT: oops didn't see the heatsink. yea, def go slow and watch your CPU temps with that one.
January 24, 2012 9:54:42 PM

bloc97 said:
You have to disable AMD Cool'n Quiet from the BIOS to be able to OverVolt your cpu, since Cool'n Quiet lowers Voltage and Hertz when CPU is not under load to be more power-efficient.

Hope it helps! :) 

Done that mate but my main worry is why my CPU overvoltage is showin weird 1.03250 etc instead of 1.2, 1.3, 1.4 volts basically just confuses me and don't know what it is saying
January 24, 2012 9:59:55 PM

bloc97 said:
1.5V? You're going to fry your CPU...

Also, If you have an 780G or 880G Motherboard, download AMD OverDrive and you can OverClock within Windows...

I haven't set mine to that but have read that other people with this AMd cpu have apparently they run hotter and higher voltage than intel but my point was why does mine display 1.03222 it's just weird and to get it to 1.32 volts with those numbers display 1.03blah blah blah confuses the hell out of me but my stock voltage is 1.32volts so why is it say 1.03251 overvoltage is there a difference between Voltage and CPU overvoltage??? and I tried AMD overdrive and couldn't get it stable with prime
January 24, 2012 10:02:06 PM

jsc said:
But learning to use the BIOS is better.


Which is why I am asking why my CPU overvoltage is displaying fractions of what it should be other Bios's have displayed it in volts 1.32 Volts etc not 1.0325 wtf is that
January 24, 2012 10:14:07 PM

deadlee690 said:
i wouldnt oc a 6 core cpu with that heatsink, you won't get very far. the jump from 1.325v to 1.40v sounds about right when your doing a 400 to 500mhz oc


To be honest it doesn't even need overclocking it's a fast CPU anyway but seeing other people have there's at 4.0ghz it p****s me off I cant get mine to work at 3.8Ghz to even see if the temps are ok or not but what budget Cooler would you recommend co's I think you are right about my heatsink only thing different i have noticed is it's silent(ish) and runs slightly cooler but i was hoping it would be enough to get to 3.8ghz at least???
January 24, 2012 10:28:57 PM

unksol said:
The text just turns yellow because you're in what the BIOS/board manfacturer had determined to be high enough above stock they should "warn" you. think traffic light. If you have good cooling it should not be an issue, but watch your CPU temps. I have had my 550 BE (unlocked to a quad) up to 1.5v, which is in the red on my board and I don't really suggest, with no issue. its been running at 1.4875V for years though. 1.4V would not concern me if you have Hood aftermarket cooling , but you should start at stock and bump it up one notch at a time till your overclock is stable. lower the voltage the better. to test for stability run prime 95 for at least an hour and watch your CPU temps.

If you are increasing the "FSB" instead of the CPU multiplier you are also increasing the memory controller and ram speed. you may need to bump memory voltage and CPU northbridge voltage to stabalize them. to avoid these problems while seeing what your CPU can handle set your ram multiplier(or speed) one below what it is rated. once you know what the CPU is stable at you can deal with the ram.

EDIT: oops didn't see the heatsink. yea, def go slow and watch your CPU temps with that one.

It's a Black edition CPU so i have been just moving the multiplyer and voltage when it wouldn't work I know the Cheap cooler runs silent(ish) and slightly cooler so I was hoping that would be enough to go from 3.3ghz to 3.8ghz??? but I can't get anything to run even so i can check the temps not over 3.5ghz anyway else i just get overclocking error or cpu overvoltage error? or if it does run Battlefield 3 it will soon enough BSOD???
I sort of assumed the yellow meant what you say but wasn't 100% sure hence me asking to be safe. so if those values that turn yellow at 1.45000 1.50000 are volts co's i wasn't sure if it meant fractions "overvoltage" if it is volts why does it start so low 1.0325 with a long way up before it even just gets to 1.1000 which is still way below stock voltage 1.32 volts (weird)
I will try lowering the ram speed but if I'm only changing the multiplyer will it make a difference?
January 24, 2012 10:41:47 PM

deadlee690 said:
i wouldnt oc a 6 core cpu with that heatsink, you won't get very far. the jump from 1.325v to 1.40v sounds about right when your doing a 400 to 500mhz oc


I have taken it easy but do you think I could have done any damage trying when i have been messing with voltages in a vain attempt to get stability I have never let the core temps go over 57 degrees (celsius I think) by monitoring it with HWMonitor and I read that 62 is the safe limit but it goes up to 52, 54 even at stock speeds when i had the stock cooler and thats while playing Battlefield 3, The thing is with the arctic cooling heatsink is the temps vary day by day sometimes go as low as 26 Degrees on one day 32 on another at Idle, 46 at full load (Battlefield 3) one day 52 or 54 the next??? WTF I am currently unemployed Off sick so little money but what budget heatsink would you or could you suggest
January 24, 2012 10:55:30 PM

bloc97 said:
1.5V? You're going to fry your CPU...

Also, If you have an 780G or 880G Motherboard, download AMD OverDrive and you can OverClock within Windows...


I think my motherboard is a 760G but did see it wrote 760G also known as 780G on one site?? so i tried AMD overdrive but only the old one would run the latest one with the Black window won't run don't know why and it kept crashing the AMD overdrive on auto clock so I gave up and went to Bios co's at least that's permanent ie once you set it and leave Bios it keeps those settings "I Wish it Friggin would work tho lol"
January 24, 2012 11:09:23 PM

jewals11 said:
l would use one of these with the 1100t
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=...
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=...
http://ca.asus.com/en/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/M5A97_EV...
http://ca.asus.com/en/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/M5A99X_E...
The gigabyte use 8+2 phase psu probably the best pick.
If you can this would be the way to go and look for sales.

Thanks mate but what's wrong with the asus m5a78l I just bought? I don't know I just looked at the ones that were shipping with motherboard, 1090t,1100t Cpu, memory bundles and they all mainly had that motherboard why would they put a motherboard that wasn't compatible or good enough for that CPU??? not really up for buying another new Mobo m8 lol I know it's a cheap one but it is meant to support upcoming AMD or AMD FX AM3+ Cpu's so as far as I can see it should be fine. not worth buying a new one is it. Plus I just bought a evo labs 700watt PSU so ain't gonna be buying a new one of those for a long time but thanks for your input Do you think I am wrong??? but I am on a budget m8 (off work with illness 4 a long time) so my one will have to do for now

But saying that mate just lookin on ebay and the m5a97 is only £83.99 you said m5a97/evo is it the same board if so it might be something to save up for so actually thanks for pointing that one out for me and I wish i'd had that money to spend initially mine was £59 (I would link the page like you did but i don't know how)

Update
I just checked and mine supports all the cpu's even the FX 8100 8 core CPU basically the same as the asus you showed me but without the Multi GPU support (which I can't afford anyway) and 140 watt support (But how many CPU's go over 125Watts anyway, No AMD as far as I know,I may be wrong but I did check the list) Oh and the better chipset but CPU support is the same!!! so with respect (and you may have a fair argument) what is so much better about those asus ones you showed me compared to my M5A78L one?? will be awaiting your reply, Cheers
No one ever replies on this damn site offer advice and then wont back it up with facts
March 10, 2012 3:50:59 AM

why does no one reply on this site they offer advice but when you question there advice they wont back it up with facts some forum ey
March 10, 2012 4:35:07 PM

steelninja said:
Done that mate but my main worry is why my CPU overvoltage is showin weird 1.03250 etc instead of 1.2, 1.3, 1.4 volts basically just confuses me and don't know what it is saying


Did you try updating the BIOS?

Sorry for the late reply. :??: 
March 13, 2012 2:17:44 AM

bloc97 said:
Did you try updating the BIOS?

Sorry for the late reply. :??: 

Yeah have the latest one I think I sorted it now,I was as the post said confused about my CPU overvoltage setting and found I was massively undervolting it by just puttin it on the first setting after auto and had to go up to 1.32500 the first setting was 1.02600 approx .so was a long way up but thought these numbers were voltage but wasn't sure thought they could be fractions of overvoltage so didn't wanna go all the way up to 1.32500 ie 1.325 volts in case I would be massively Overvolting it.
But then someone on another post just basically took the P*** out of me for not knowing that which gave me a clue don't know why they couldn't just put me right without saying "You have no clue what u are doing that is undervolting it"
so I kinda figured it out from there lol
now I just need to find out the highest core temps I am allowed to safely run it at. At the moment I'm at 3.7 Ghz 'loads better' and my temps are 27 -32 degrees Idle and around 50- 56 while playing games, Do you think I could go up more or do you think I need a better heatsink? thanks for your reply and let me know what you think
March 13, 2012 11:37:17 PM

Eh... 56C? That a bit high for my preference... It is OK for the CPU, it won't break it and it is rated to run at 75C.
But it may have shorter lifetime compared to CPU's that only get to 40C.

Personally my Phenom II x4 unlocked at x6 runs at approx. 45C when getting stressed with Prime95, and 42C while playing heavy CPU-usage games. (like Minecraft)
It runs at 29C when idle. And I am not using the OEM cooler.

Also, if you were wondering how did I see the temps with an unlocked CPU, I used a infrared sensor. (it is cheap nowdays and can cost only ~80$)
March 19, 2012 10:47:09 PM

but mine gets up to 50c on stock settings so i thought it was normal now i have a aftermarket cooler and it still gets up to 50 -52 when playin games is mine not supposed to get that high and what can i do about it 56-57 was when it was overclocked to 3.7 Ghz but stock it will reach 50 all day long is yours the same cpu? co's i know different cpus are different temps
March 19, 2012 10:50:54 PM

bloc97 said:
Eh... 56C? That a bit high for my preference... It is OK for the CPU, it won't break it and it is rated to run at 75C.
But it may have shorter lifetime compared to CPU's that only get to 40C.

Personally my Phenom II x4 unlocked at x6 runs at approx. 45C when getting stressed with Prime95, and 42C while playing heavy CPU-usage games. (like Minecraft)
It runs at 29C when idle. And I am not using the OEM cooler.

Also, if you were wondering how did I see the temps with an unlocked CPU, I used a infrared sensor. (it is cheap nowdays and can cost only ~80$)

how do i get my temps down then i bought a cooler and my new case has good fans and air circulation. u got me worried now co's mine will reach 50 - 55 all day long as i said. please advise plus it's colder in the uk than most places in the states which i assume u r from since you stated $ what cooler do u have? will check your rig data in a minute and see I was gonna get a coolermaster hyper 212 anygood plus your using an infrared heat sensor right? well I'm just using software so it could be a false reading ie a false alarm right?
However this review for that cpu just said:-
As a note, playing Crysis 2 on highest with a HD 5870 GPU, the temperature, with stock cooler, reached 50 degrees Celsius, maximum, at the end of 3 hours playing.
so he's not far off what I am getting at stock speeds & I think the arctic freezer 7 pro is about as good as a stock cooler just quieter plus he has a better graphics card than mine so surely that will take some strain off his cpu compared to my 6770?

I don't think it's a problem mate it must just run hotter than yours co's I just found this in another review on that CPU:-

As expected, considering the processor fits into the same power envelope as the Phenom II X6 1090T, the 1100T Black Edition consumes a similar amount of power. Our particular chip actually consumed a few watts less than the 1090T while idling and only 15 more watts while under load.

We should also point out the that Phenom II X6 1100T operated at very similar temperatures to the 1090T, as the power numbers would suggest. We saw idle temps in the low 40'C range and load temps in the mid-60'C range. (mine has never reached 60'c)

Our editor Joel has also been playing around with the 1100T in conjunction with a sinlge-phase Phase Change cooler to see what kind overlocks it's capable of with some exotic cooling. Joel got the CPU to POST at 5GHz at 1.475v, but the machine wasn't stable. Stability came at 4.3GHz with all 6-cores active. And with three cores enabled it hit 4.5GHz.
Sounds like mines fine if we go by this review I expect yours uses loads less power to mine causing the difference in temps under load :) 
March 19, 2012 10:56:35 PM

plus how much of a shorter lifetime hard to say i suppose but will it be drastically lower and why dioes mine run so hot? even on stock settings it is at 52 c max now on coretemp and is runnin at 39c as i type this it's been like that pretty much since i built it 3 - 4 months ago will that have damaged it badly? please dont tell me I have!!
April 15, 2012 8:36:59 PM

steelninja said:
how do i get my temps down then i bought a cooler and my new case has good fans and air circulation. u got me worried now co's mine will reach 50 - 55 all day long as i said. please advise plus it's colder in the uk than most places in the states which i assume u r from since you stated $ what cooler do u have? will check your rig data in a minute and see I was gonna get a coolermaster hyper 212 anygood plus your using an infrared heat sensor right? well I'm just using software so it could be a false reading ie a false alarm right? ...


Sorry for this late reply, My internet was down for a month. :( 

Firstly, I would have to assure you that higher temperatures does not mean that it will break or damage the CPU, but may shorten it's lifetime by around 4-6 months and won't break very soon.
Modern CPU's usually have 6-7 years of lifespan with a computer opened 12h a day all the year. Old CPU's had even higher lifespan. Even antiques like the AMD K5 (1995) still work.

My CPU (AMD Phenom II 840T) idles at around 30C as I mentioned before, but when I unlock it to a 6-Core (1045T) and overclock it to 3.2GHz, it idles at 34C and when at full load for 10 minutes, it gets to 42C. These temperatures are taken in winter with a room temperature of 21C.
I never used this computer in the summer since I bought it last December. (I live in Canada, not USA, so the temperatures should be even lower than in UK.)

Yes, some CPU's have a faulty sensor since I have a Phenom x3 (not Phenom II), that idles at 11C (I use CoreTemp for software monitoring) with a room temperature of 21C on air cooling?!?!?!
My current CPU is different by 4C from my infrared sensor, it may be one of the two that is inaccurate, but I am assuming that it is the CPU.

Also, are those temps your Stock temps? Or after you overclocked? By the way, disable Turbo Core, Cool'n Quiet and Smart Voltage (and other automatic settings) if you want to overclock your CPU.
April 18, 2012 12:21:50 PM

bloc97 said:
Sorry for this late reply, My internet was down for a month. :( 

Firstly, I would have to assure you that higher temperatures does not mean that it will break or damage the CPU, but may shorten it's lifetime by around 4-6 months and won't break very soon.
Modern CPU's usually have 6-7 years of lifespan with a computer opened 12h a day all the year. Old CPU's had even higher lifespan. Even antiques like the AMD K5 (1995) still work.

My CPU (AMD Phenom II 840T) idles at around 30C as I mentioned before, but when I unlock it to a 6-Core (1045T) and overclock it to 3.2GHz, it idles at 34C and when at full load for 10 minutes, it gets to 42C. These temperatures are taken in winter with a room temperature of 21C.
I never used this computer in the summer since I bought it last December. (I live in Canada, not USA, so the temperatures should be even lower than in UK.)

Yes, some CPU's have a faulty sensor since I have a Phenom x3 (not Phenom II), that idles at 11C (I use CoreTemp for software monitoring) with a room temperature of 21C on air cooling?!?!?!
My current CPU is different by 4C from my infrared sensor, it may be one of the two that is inaccurate, but I am assuming that it is the CPU.

Also, are those temps your Stock temps? Or after you overclocked? By the way, disable Turbo Core, Cool'n Quiet and Smart Voltage (and other automatic settings) if you want to overclock your CPU.

Thanks and no problem for the late reply
and thanks also for making sense of my post :pt1cable:  I often wonder how people do. Yes those are my stock speed temps 52c after playing StarWars the Old republic all night ans around 28 -32 idle I haven't tried overclocking for ages co's when I tried to run prime it shot up past 60c and didn't look like it was stopping anytime soon so I shut it down.

I'd like to have it runnin at 4.0Ghz safely but as I am off work with Illness at least till I can quit my medication (Sound like a crazy now lol) I daren't risk breaking it as wont be able to replace it anytime soon. And co's I read so many people having lower temps in the mid 40'c OC'd and on load, it makes me think mine must be dodgy as it reaches 52 daily on stock speeds with a aftermarket (crap) cooler but would running my games @ 4.0 Ghz give me any benefit? if not or a negligable? small benefit why do others insist on ramping theirs up to 4.5, 4.8, 5.0 Ghz cos that makes me think they must get some crazy boost in Fps (Frames per second in case you arent a gamer or Video editor)

I always disable all those settings as well mate as have been told that or read that many times before.. But basically just want to know that if I overclock to 3.8, 4.0 Ghz and run prime for stability should, Or when should I (ie what temp) really get worried and shut it down or should I even just let prime run its course anyway and then worry about what temps it reaches. But as I said didn''t want to risk breaking it
I have'nt tried OC'ing for a while co's was gonna get a Hyper 212 or maybe even this thermaltake cooler they have in my local store but could I or should I try with the lame freezer 7 pro?
Thanks man
April 18, 2012 9:01:23 PM

steelninja said:
Thanks and no problem for the late reply
and thanks also for making sense of my post :pt1cable:  I often wonder how people do. Yes those are my stock speed temps 52c after playing StarWars the Old republic all night ans around 28 -32 idle I haven't tried overclocking for ages co's when I tried to run prime it shot up past 60c and didn't look like it was stopping anytime soon so I shut it down.

I'd like to have it runnin at 4.0Ghz safely but as I am off work with Illness at least till I can quit my medication (Sound like a crazy now lol) I daren't risk breaking it as wont be able to replace it anytime soon. And co's I read so many people having lower temps in the mid 40'c OC'd and on load, it makes me think mine must be dodgy as it reaches 52 daily on stock speeds with a aftermarket (crap) cooler but would running my games @ 4.0 Ghz give me any benefit? if not or a negligable? small benefit why do others insist on ramping theirs up to 4.5, 4.8, 5.0 Ghz cos that makes me think they must get some crazy boost in Fps (Frames per second in case you arent a gamer or Video editor)

I always disable all those settings as well mate as have been told that or read that many times before.. But basically just want to know that if I overclock to 3.8, 4.0 Ghz and run prime for stability should, Or when should I (ie what temp) really get worried and shut it down or should I even just let prime run its course anyway and then worry about what temps it reaches. But as I said didn''t want to risk breaking it
I have'nt tried OC'ing for a while co's was gonna get a Hyper 212 or maybe even this thermaltake cooler they have in my local store but could I or should I try with the lame freezer 7 pro?
Thanks man


Check how much % of the CPU your game uses. If it uses one core at 100% or six cores at 100%, you may have a CPU bottleneck, and overclocking would benefit you, but if it isn't using one core (or all of them) at 100%, overclocking won't increase FPS by much since the game already has all what it needs in terms of compute power.

Buying a newer and better Graphic Card can boost FPS far much than a typical CPU overclock (even by 1GHz). But overclocking can affect software-based (CPU-Based) video editing, video converting, etc...
It would be better if you can have a Video converter that use your Graphic Card, like Cyberlink MediaEspresso. I can convert 1hour HD videos with my Graphic Card in less than 8 minutes.

For temperature safety, breaking the 60C barrier in any load usage can break the CPU in some cases since you cannot monitor the Temps all the time. It may reach 70C without you noticing. That is why it is always better to leave a considerable amout of overhead (~10C), 5C is the minimum overhead that you should use.

Hope it helps! :) 
April 18, 2012 9:56:08 PM

bloc97 said:
Check how much % of the CPU your game uses. If it uses one core at 100% or six cores at 100%, you may have a CPU bottleneck, and overclocking would benefit you, but if it isn't using one core (or all of them) at 100%, overclocking won't increase FPS by much since the game already has all what it needs in terms of compute power.

Buying a newer and better Graphic Card can boost FPS far much than a typical CPU overclock (even by 1GHz). But overclocking can affect software-based (CPU-Based) video editing, video converting, etc...
It would be better if you can have a Video converter that use your Graphic Card, like Cyberlink MediaEspresso. I can convert 1hour HD videos with my Graphic Card in less than 8 minutes.

For temperature safety, breaking the 60C barrier in any load usage can break the CPU in some cases since you cannot monitor the Temps all the time. It may reach 70C without you noticing. That is why it is always better to leave a considerable amout of overhead (~10C), 5C is the minimum overhead that you should use.

Hope it helps! :) 

My CPU hardly has any usage ever round about %30 - %50 max on games I have monitored. And it usually uses 4 cores in almost equal amounts and the other 2 cores a little. I still think Why would people overclock these 1100t's if there wasn't really any better performance?
And if 60c is my limit do you think I have any headroom to OC when mine reaches 52c as it is if not Why do you think mines like that when everyone else seems to get 4.0 Ghz all day long with these CPU's? Do you think I should leave the overclocking till when my CPU is struggling to play the latest games (Probably in about 4 years if I assume right) but why does all this overclocking of these powerful chips go on? Maybe it's a mines bigger than yours mentality lol
Update
This guy on some OC forum says hes getting 43c whilst at 4.0 Ghz so why the hell would mine be the same as my stock cooler was on my new one and a whole 10c more than him at stock speeds Is my new CPU broke? is it fixable or maybe just a crap (even crapper than stock) cooler?
It doesn't look good although it hasn't given me any trouble (YET) but just worried that It's burning itself out and there I am just thinking it was normal temps for the CPU lol I hope not
April 19, 2012 3:12:20 AM

If a program or a game isn't currently using 100% of at least ONE core, it would be useless to overclock since it will just lower the CPU usage.
Eg. 2.6GHz = 60% usage.
Overclock to 3.0GHz = 40% usage.

BUT

If the CPU is struggling to compute things and the power required is above 100%, overclocking may help.
Without overclock -> 2.5GHz = 120% Usage, throttled down to 100%. 20% performance lost.
With overclock -> 3.0GHz = 100% Usage, no throttle or performance lost.

OR

If a program is designed to use 100% of your CPU. (Eg. SETI@Home, Video Converters, Software Renderers.)
No matter what is your Clock, it will use 100% of your CPU, so higher is your CPU Clock, more calculations can be done in a shorter amount of time.
__
For the 43c at 4GHz, it can be done, but you will need a super-fast rpm fan... It would make your computer sound like a Jet Engine and explode your windows...
Or he is just bragging and it is probably not real.
At last, he may be unlucky and have a faulty Temp Sensor. If he has the Old 2009 Phenom series, those processors have a offset of 10-12C, so he have to add 10C to his temps.

What is your cooler? Can you post a link?

Even any retail cooler with a adequate brand should do better than stock.
My Old Stock = 32C Idle, 48C Load. (44dB Idle, 56dB Load, Thats loud. :fou: ) 2400-4700RPM
New Artic Cooling Alpine 64 = 27C Idle, 46C Load. (32dB Idle, 37dB Load) 800-2200RPM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

You can clearly see that the retail fan can turn only at 2200 RPM and beat the Stock Fan that spins at 4700 RPM and produces a annoying sound. (Like a leaf blower, but far away)

And reassure yourself, your CPU won't have any visible "Physical Damage" if it doesn't go over 79C.
April 23, 2012 1:33:53 PM

bloc97 said:
If a program or a game isn't currently using 100% of at least ONE core, it would be useless to overclock since it will just lower the CPU usage.
Eg. 2.6GHz = 60% usage.
Overclock to 3.0GHz = 40% usage.

BUT

If the CPU is struggling to compute things and the power required is above 100%, overclocking may help.
Without overclock -> 2.5GHz = 120% Usage, throttled down to 100%. 20% performance lost.
With overclock -> 3.0GHz = 100% Usage, no throttle or performance lost.

OR

If a program is designed to use 100% of your CPU. (Eg. SETI@Home, Video Converters, Software Renderers.)
No matter what is your Clock, it will use 100% of your CPU, so higher is your CPU Clock, more calculations can be done in a shorter amount of time.
__
For the 43c at 4GHz, it can be done, but you will need a super-fast rpm fan... It would make your computer sound like a Jet Engine and explode your windows...
Or he is just bragging and it is probably not real.
At last, he may be unlucky and have a faulty Temp Sensor. If he has the Old 2009 Phenom series, those processors have a offset of 10-12C, so he have to add 10C to his temps.

What is your cooler? Can you post a link?

Even any retail cooler with a adequate brand should do better than stock.
My Old Stock = 32C Idle, 48C Load. (44dB Idle, 56dB Load, Thats loud. :fou: ) 2400-4700RPM
New Artic Cooling Alpine 64 = 27C Idle, 46C Load. (32dB Idle, 37dB Load) 800-2200RPM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

You can clearly see that the retail fan can turn only at 2200 RPM and beat the Stock Fan that spins at 4700 RPM and produces a annoying sound. (Like a leaf blower, but far away)

And reassure yourself, your CPU won't have any visible "Physical Damage" if it doesn't go over 79C.

OK man thanks for the info and my fan is an arctic cooling freezer 7 pro and I haven't noticed it running any cooler really just quieter it still gets up to 52 - 53c playing games!! I can try post a link but not sure how...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Arctic-Cooling-Freezer-Pro-7-... Although this one seems for the intel mine had AMD clips also. It was £29:50 in my local store

Best I can do but that will take you to it. Not a fancy as your links tho I know :) 
OK so it's not gonna break easily but why would gamers stress their CPU's to these high speeds if there wasn't any need it's strange but I know what you said makes sense so maybe I'll just leave it till I do need to.

Let me know what you think of the cooler and if it should be still reaching those temps (I did try 2, I returned one of these but just got the same temps with the new one)
So either I'm not doing it right or too much of the chinese thermal paste I bought (I know Chinese) lol
April 23, 2012 1:49:21 PM

bloc97 said:
Oh yea I forgot :
Reviews :

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Arctic-Cooling-A...
http://www.dragonsteelmods.com/index.php?option=com_con...

Also, take note that this cooler isn't designed just for overclocking, so it isn't the best cooler for overclocking, but it has unbeatable noise levels and power consumption.

Oh my links do come out like yours so thats good eh. Yes that cooler does look OK but no heatpipes mine has 3 still not lots the good ones have 4 or 6(that will affect it's cooling capacity) Mines similar but more of the style I was after just with seemingly awful performance Something like this would be Ideal

http://www.compusa.com/applications/SearchTools/item-de...

Although the Hyper 212 evo pro see

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-EVO-L...

is cheaper and is supposed to be great for OC. when I get my HD6950 or HD6970 graphics card I doubt I'll even need to or want to OC so may just put any money I get towards one of those eh. Co's that will give me a great performance boost co's the HD6770 I am using sucks
let me know if you have any Ideas on my cooler and why it doesn't perform any better than stock and then I will close this thread co's have learned everything I needed to know really but still don't get why people bother OC'ing chips that are allready powerful ? who knows maybe it is just the mines bigger than yours thing lol
Thanks mate

Update
Also mate just had another look and yours says maximum cooling capacity 90 watts and my CPU is 125 Watts Don't know if my arctic cooling one is the same that would explain it's sh sorry crap performance eh gonna have a look later

Nah mine says up to 130 watts so thats not the problem maybe it's just normal temps but doesn't leave me much room for OC does it?
April 26, 2012 1:37:41 AM

Maybe they are your normal temps... But are you sure that you are looking at "Core" Temperatures rather than "CPU Socket" Temperatures.
Some motherboards show their CPU Socket temperature instead of the Core Temperature...

Also, not every heatsink with copper heat pipes are better. They have better airflow, but not better heat transferring.
April 26, 2012 12:18:32 PM

bloc97 said:
Maybe they are your normal temps... But are you sure that you are looking at "Core" Temperatures rather than "CPU Socket" Temperatures.
Some motherboards show their CPU Socket temperature instead of the Core Temperature...

Also, not every heatsink with copper heat pipes are better. They have better airflow, but not better heat transferring.

Guess you are right co's that is evident with my 3 heatpipe Arctic cooling cooler performing no better than a stock one with one heatpipe. And yes those are my coretemps taken with coretemp..
I may just leave OC'ing till it's needed lol. I just wanted to see what all the fuss was about (Not Much) All seems pretty pointless if like you said these CPU's don't even get used 100% anyway so why do you need more.
Although I still thought there must be a reason why people would stress there CPU's by OC'ing. I appreciate you taking your time to answer my posts and help me understand a bit more about the subject but just gonna save for a new HD6950 and sure my performance boost in games will be worth the £200. I don't think any of my other components are gonna need an upgrade for a few years to come so just waitin on some cash.
Thanks 4 yer help mate
April 27, 2012 3:28:34 PM

bloc97 said:
No problem. :) 

And good luck buying that HD 6950, and you may try to "unlock" it into a HD 6970.
http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/overclocking/159

Wow I'd heard about this with some cards but thought they had to have a dual bios or something but this says any 6950 can be unlocked to a 6970.Thanks for the heads up co's if this is true I could save myself from waitin till I could afford a 6970. It will be a while till I got some spare cash anyway so will have to make do with the 6770 for a while yet :(  gonna keep that article safe
Just lookin on ebay and heard someone say don't get a 6950 get a 7850 so looked on Ebay and they are about the same price although some 6950's go for lot more but check it out and tell me what you think or if you think I'd be better off unlocking a 6950 to a 6970 heres the link
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VTX3D-Radeon-HD-7850-2gb-GDDR...

I couldn't find how many shaders it had compared to the unlocked 6950 but maybe you could tell if it's as good or better even.
Also what is that 7770 like in your harware configuration? co's Id like to get something better sooner, but probably should wait till i can afford either the 6950 or maybe this 7850 tell me what you think
April 28, 2012 3:08:08 AM

The HD 7770 is about the same performance as the HD 6850, but the MSI OC version can sometime catch up with the 6870.

A 6970 (or unlocked 6950) should be just 5-10% better than the 7850 in certain circumstances, but the 7850 can save you 50% of the power that a 6970 needs.

Get a 7850 if you can, but a 6950 (stock) and unlocked is not bad either.
Just a notice : Only the Stock Version of the 6950 can be unlocked at 99.9%! Any other sub-brand will only unlock with a chance of 45% (like Sapphire, MSI, etc.)

Compare the prices of the 7850 and the Stock 6950, choose the cheaper one unless you have power consumption issues in mind. If you do, choose the 7850 without hesitation, it can save 50% of electricity bills compared to the 6970.

As a tip, do not buy from eBay electronics unless you don't have a other choice, since eBay does not guarantee you a free RMA/Return.

Hope it helps! :) 
April 28, 2012 12:33:46 PM

bloc97 said:
The HD 7770 is about the same performance as the HD 6850, but the MSI OC version can sometime catch up with the 6870.

A 6970 (or unlocked 6950) should be just 5-10% better than the 7850 in certain circumstances, but the 7850 can save you 50% of the power that a 6970 needs.

Get a 7850 if you can, but a 6950 (stock) and unlocked is not bad either.
Just a notice : Only the Stock Version of the 6950 can be unlocked at 99.9%! Any other sub-brand will only unlock with a chance of 45% (like Sapphire, MSI, etc.)

Compare the prices of the 7850 and the Stock 6950, choose the cheaper one unless you have power consumption issues in mind. If you do, choose the 7850 without hesitation, it can save 50% of electricity bills compared to the 6970.

As a tip, do not buy from eBay electronics unless you don't have a other choice, since eBay does not guarantee you a free RMA/Return.

Hope it helps! :) 

Sounds like sound advise. I'm not really assed about power consumption co's even with my new gaming PC I never noticed any change in my leccy bills from when i just had a weak Dual core with a 5570. So a 7770 would still be an improvement on my 6770 but probably not enough to warrant an upgrade right? I can get this VTX 7850 for £185

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VTX3D-Radeon-HD-7850-2gb-GDDR...

So this will be as good as a 6950 or 6970 OC'd

It's about the same price range but would be nice to have a current 7xxx series card. Actually you said the 6950 could be 5 - 10% better which sounds like a big performance increase. It's gonna be a while yet anyway co's am on sick benefits at the moment and money is tight so would have to save up.
Do I need to buy one with 2gig ram or will a 1 gig one be not much different?
Also which is the stock Radeon HD 6950 is it xfx or vfx? I could get a HSI one with 2 gig ram for about £180 as well but is that unlikely to unlock?


I'm almost 100% happy with my PC build but just need the better GPU co's I think thats my only thing holding the PC back from being a High end build right? could also do with some faster ram and an ssd drive but almost there. Will faster 2000 mhz ram make gaming better? my ram is 7 gigs 1333mhz but I could get 8 gig 2000 mhz for £40 (I actually did when i bought the stuff. But the fast ram went missing in the post :( 
Bloody Royal Mail 4 you lol
So all i got was a refund so bought the slower ram locally

I Think i bought the CPU and Mobo on ebuyer but ebay is usuallly my first stop but I would probably be stuffed for a RMA lo

Also some guy on youtube told me not to buy a 6950 co's it was an old card but I believe he's talking crap co's the 7950 only just came out and the 6900 series was the best AMD cards before then right?
I wish I had some dollar right now lol
April 30, 2012 9:41:13 PM

5-10% Is about 8-10 More FPS in some games, but not always. The 7850 performs better compared to the 6970 in almost every DirectX 11 software/games with its new tessellation engine, but the 6970 performs better in older DX 10/9 games.

For higher-end cards (7750-7870), 2GB would benefit by a bit, especially with high-definition texture packs.
However, any card that is in the 79xx section should have 2GB, or it may have a memory bottleneck.

Cheap one-slot cards with 2GB or above is useless and is only for marketing. (yes I saw a HD 6570 with 4GB :o )
It attracts people to see a big 2GB on the cover than saying it has a lot more cores...

Neither XFX or VFX are Stock AMD Cards. You NEED a card called : AMD Radeon HD 6950!
Having a potential memory bottleneck by unlocking a 1GB card gives more performance than if you fail to unlock a 2GB one.
Also, note that if you fail to unlock and the Card is bricked, you will void your warranty, so search up "how to unlock a 6950" on google and read a lot of articles before buying a chosen card.

Slower RAM won't really matter, especially if its higher than 1 GHz.

A "High End PC" is actually defined by yourself. As a tip, don't buy things that you buy just to get the best things and to brag about it... Buy only what you need... If it is only for gaming, with a budget graphic card, it Can be a good Gaming PC.

A 7950 is new, performant, but cost a hell of a lot... Also, a 7950 cannot be unlocked to a 7970 since AMD discovered their old error and fixed it.

This can help :
Comparison Chart (Best to worse) in terms of RAW Performance.
Do NOT Use this GUIDE AS 100% Accuracy. Real-Life scenarios are NOT Direct-Compute Algorithms.
If 7970 = 100%
7950 = 97%
6970 = 93%
7870 = 88%
6950 = 85%
7850 = 82%
6870 = 75%
6850 = 72%
7770 = 71%
7750 = 65%
6770 = 63%
6750 = 61%
6670 = 42%
6570 = 40%

Any graphic card below the 6570 is not suitable for new games or any game in the future. (2012+)

Hope it helps! :) 
May 2, 2012 5:21:09 AM

bloc97 said:
5-10% Is about 8-10 More FPS in some games, but not always. The 7850 performs better compared to the 6970 in almost every DirectX 11 software/games with its new tessellation engine, but the 6970 performs better in older DX 10/9 games.

For higher-end cards (7750-7870), 2GB would benefit by a bit, especially with high-definition texture packs.
However, any card that is in the 79xx section should have 2GB, or it may have a memory bottleneck.

Cheap one-slot cards with 2GB or above is useless and is only for marketing. (yes I saw a HD 6570 with 4GB :o )
It attracts people to see a big 2GB on the cover than saying it has a lot more cores...

Neither XFX or VFX are Stock AMD Cards. You NEED a card called : AMD Radeon HD 6950!
Having a potential memory bottleneck by unlocking a 1GB card gives more performance than if you fail to unlock a 2GB one.
Also, note that if you fail to unlock and the Card is bricked, you will void your warranty, so search up "how to unlock a 6950" on google and read a lot of articles before buying a chosen card.

Slower RAM won't really matter, especially if its higher than 1 GHz.

A "High End PC" is actually defined by yourself. As a tip, don't buy things that you buy just to get the best things and to brag about it... Buy only what you need... If it is only for gaming, with a budget graphic card, it Can be a good Gaming PC.

A 7950 is new, performant, but cost a hell of a lot... Also, a 7950 cannot be unlocked to a 7970 since AMD discovered their old error and fixed it.

This can help :
Comparison Chart (Best to worse) in terms of RAW Performance.
Do NOT Use this GUIDE AS 100% Accuracy. Real-Life scenarios are NOT Direct-Compute Algorithms.
If 7970 = 100%
7950 = 97%
6970 = 93%
7870 = 88%
6950 = 85%
7850 = 82%
6870 = 75%
6850 = 72%
7770 = 71%
7750 = 65%
6770 = 63%
6750 = 61%
6670 = 42%
6570 = 40%

Any graphic card below the 6570 is not suitable for new games or any game in the future. (2012+)

Hope it helps! :) 

Hi man
Wow you certainly know your stuff lol. Yes I fell for that marketing ploy with my Radeon HD 5570 with a whopping 2 gig ram lol till I realised the card wasn't powerful enough to make use of it. I wouldn't like to game on anything less than my 6770 which is just capable enough to enjoy the games although it wouldn't run The witcher 2 on anything other than low and I suffer with low FPS on most high spec games which is mainly what i wish to get rid of co's i hate low FPS.

So if you Brick your GPU is it finished? I heard the term before. So an unlocked 1 gig card will give you better performance than a stock 2 gig one of the same make I will keep that in mind.
I did wonder if my 6770 was better than a 5950 and looking at your list it must be. Mine IS a good gaming pc with a budget GPU but I want to make it a great Gaming PC with a better GPU.

I don't really need 24 x AA or crazily High rez I just wanna get 1080p with good FPS on high or ultra preferably, which a 6950 should do right? Co's mine runs BF3 on Ultra but to be really playable you have to turn the AA and settings down to high but FPS are low so a 6950 should be OK.
I don't think you have to have multiple GPU's sure it probably would be better but 1 decent GPU should suffice.
I can't wait to get a Job although there aren't any here and the government has made it even harder due to there crazy immigration policy.

Thanks for the reply and I will keep this information for when I have the cash. It's amazing all the help you can get online and it's good to see people are willing to help someone halfway round the world so thanks brother :) 

Oh and you made my mind up I will get a 6950 as it's 3rd on your list but possible to get it to 2nd on your list if unlocked and I know you know your stuff if so just need £200 now :) 

Update Didn't see the 7970 at the top of the list but still gonna get a 6950 co's if unlocked that's 30% better than what I have which should be some fat increase in FPS on high settings
May 3, 2012 4:29:07 PM

A 6950 should be really cheap now since prices are brought down by the new 7xxx series...
Actually, a lot of people recommend a 6950. It can unlock, it is cheap, it performs well. (No games actually fully uses the 7970 yet.)

Don't forget to buy the Retail one, don't try sub-brands. Sub-brands like XFX, PowerColor, MSI, etc. have custom bios(es) and will not work with a unlocked retail bios.
Also, this is new : HD 6950 v2 cards do not unlock anymore, they cut unused cores... I guess you have to buy the v1 cards... Be sure that you buy a v1 card


No problem for all that help!

Happy gaming! :) 
!